elliottnewcomb
Forum Pro
I put this together for myself, I thought some may want parts of it
Select ALL, copy, open your blank document, Paste. Later delete what you couldn't care less about
..............................................DPREVIEW INFORMATION From SONY threads
Sony Jpeg Extended Zooms Explained
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4373614
In-Camera Extended Zoom Types Explained
(Jpeg Only) ....... please don’t have the RAW vs Jpeg discussion here. ......
examples are based on rx100m6 (see VII. for all other RX models)
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CONDENSED VERSION
OZ (Optical Zoom) … SZ (Smart Zoom) … CIZ (Clear Image Zoom) … DZ (Digital Zoom)
x Factors: (OZ = 1.0x) (SZ @ 10mp = 1.4x; @ 5mp = 2.0x) (CIZ @ 20mp = 2.0x; @ 10mp = 2.8x; @ 5mp = 4.0x)
EXTENDED Focal Length = Optical Focal Length … multiplied by … Sony x Factor (i.e. 200mm x 1.4x = 280mm)
EXIF Digital Zoom Line (exact) is the Same as Sony’s ___x Factor (rounded). OZ is EXIF Digital Zoom: 1.
Exceeding OZ: a magnifying glass icon appears on the zoom bar with a number ( the x Factor) (the __x Factor increases as you keep zooming, i.e. 1.3x … 1.4x, … 2.8x … 4.0x). EXIF Digital Zoom Line Exceeds 1.
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All rx100’s and RX10’s have: OZ, SZ, CIZ, DZ.
Later models also have ST (Smart Telecon) which is a Method of Toggling SZ.
RX1’s have ST and CIZ. (ST via AEL button): Toggles Sensor Crops: 50mm; 70mm; back to 35mm. (CIZ via right rocker) zooms 1.1x to 2.0x = 36-70mm
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OUTLINE
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SZ = Smart Zoom = In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop, no digital processing. Only at 10mp or 5mp image sizes
ST = Smart Telecon = a method of Rapidly Toggling SZ. (No CIZ using ST). no digital processing.
CIZ = Clear Image Zoom = In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop and In-Camera Digital Processing (upscaling: inventing, guessing, creating new pixels digitally)
DZ = Digital Zoom. All Digital Processing. I never tried current DZ, Anyone???.
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Effortless; Occasional/Situational Use; Surprisingly Good (good enough for you?)
View/Focus/Meter while magnified. Discover something you were otherwise unaware of. You can combine extra zoom with focus magnification assist (very magnified). Magnification gives the ability to see your remote subject clearly, and, because so visible you can wait for something to finish the shot:
i.e. bird winks at you, lion lifts his head, croc swallows something, cloud moves, momentary stillness, wind blows a branch in or out of the way, truck making shadow/blocking ….. moves, a myriad of things not easily visible if viewing OZ shorter focal length, perhaps not ideal timing revealed in a post crop.
Both focus and metering automatically change to full screen area size. That seems a disadvantage, however you are zoomed in so much that full screen area size is perhaps smaller than spot area size from afar using OZ. Focus and Metering systems see only your magnified area.
ALL Extra Zoom retains/uses the camera’s aperture at the end of optical zoom. IF IQ good enough for you, the retained aperture can actually beat a longer optical lens that is darker/higher iso/noise/requires longer shutter speed/blur.
In all cases, zoom scales and icons appear on the LCD and EVF. In all cases, because they are progressive, you can leave them on and not use them, or, keep zooming a little, or a lot, as desired.
SZ and CIZ are far better than any past DZ you might have seen.
I always say, even RAW shooters: “At least try them so you know”. If interested: keep checking these features out on each new model/processor: CIZ upscaling algorithms progressively improve. In-camera processing power increases.
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III. CONFUSIONS
Is it Digital Zoom? OZ and SZ: No. CIZ: Partly. DZ: Totally
SZ or CIZ are often erroneously called Digital Zoom. This leads to misunderstandings.
Extra Zooms are entered/used Sequentially: OZ, then SZ automatically, then optionally CIZ or DZ with CIZ.
EXIF shows all extra zoom in a separate line: ‘Digital Zoom’ (Sony SZ, CIZ, DZ names are gone) (EXIF notes part VI)
SZ Automatically Occurs at 10mp or 5mp image sizes (no menu option)
CIZ or DZ are Optionally Engaged: CIZ without DZ, or DZ which also engages CIZ (CIZ occurs before DZ).
SZ and CIZ can be engaged together and will be entered/used progressively.
ST is a Method of using SZ, not a separate zoom type.
Extra Zoom Power, both SZ and CIZ Increases when you Decrease the Image Size
Jpeg Compression is Independent of OZ, SZ, CIZ. If using Jpeg Extra Fine, everything will be Extra Fine.
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An optical in-camera sensor crop, with no other in-camera processing. It is the same as a crop you would make later in software. No extra pixels created. Crops have increasingly fewer pixels. An in-camera SZ crop, and a matching crop in your software will have the same # of pixels. Of course post crops can be of either Jpeg or RAW images.
SZ is Automatically Engaged (if/when you use 10mp or 5mp Image Sizes). There is no menu option. Watch the zoom bar/listen to the zoom motor, using 10mp or 5mp image size, after 200mm OZ a magnifier icon appears with a number i.e. 1.3x.
20mp image size: SZ: None. CIZ, if engaged, starts after the end of OZ
10mp image size: SZ range is 1.1x to 1.4x. (201-280mm max optical crop, no upscale),
5mp image size SZ range 1.1x to 2.0x (201-400mm max optical crop, no upscale).
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CIZ Clear Image Zoom (optional, you must turn it on in the menu) (always double the extra reach of SZ)
Two stages: In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop AND In-Camera Digital Processing (up-scaling, new pixels created. upscaled to the original Image size being used.
It is progressive: use it some, some new pixels are created. Use it more, more pixels are created.
A simplification: 20mp image size, full CIZ use for 400mm: stage one: optical sensor crop of 20mp image size. Let’s say that results in 10mp. Stage two: upscale, digitally guess and create 10mp new pixels to get back to full 20mp pixel count.
This is the part where improving algorithms play a part. And, improving processors need to be capable and quick.
It is the same as if you later made a matching crop from a 20mp optical shot, (now 10mp left), and then upscale digitally in your software, back to 20mp. Difference is: you did not see magnified when shooting, however you may prefer your software, and your computer’s processing. Of course post crops can be of either Jpeg or RAW images.
If you compare an in-camera CIZ to a post crop that has not been upscaled, the CIZ will have more pixels, the larger the crop, the larger the pixel difference is.
For me, this is where SZ and CIZ being EFFORTLESS begins and ends. Then, is it good enough?
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While shooting OZ 20mp Image Size:
1st press instantly jumps to SZ 1.4x (and changes to 10mp image size)
2nd press instantly jumps to SZ 2.0x (and changes to 5mp image size)
3rd press, jumps back to OZ 1.0x 20mp Image Size.
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EXIF has 3 lines for zoom information.
EXIF Digital #s (exact) Correspond to Sony’s __x #s (rounded). i.e. Sony SZ 1.4x: EXIF # might be 1.43456
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EXIF DEDUCTIVE MATH (is this OZ, an OZ Crop, SZ or CIZ)?
If Digital Zoom 1. It is OZ or OZ Crop
If Digital Zoom greater than 1. It is SZ or CIZ. Which One? answer depends on the image size:
20mp image size: (no SZ at 20mp). CIZ from 1.1000 to 2.0000 = 201-400mm max
10mp image size: SZ first, 1.1000 to 1.4000 = 201-280mm max; then CIZ begins 1.4100 to 2.8000 = 281-560mm.
5mp image size: SZ first, 1.1000 to 2.000 = 201-400mm then CIZ begins 2.1000 to 4.000 = 401-800mm.
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VII. ALL RX MODELS EXTENDED ZOOM RANGES
Reminder: SZ = Optical Sensor Crop. CIZ = Optical Sensor Crop + Digital Upscaling
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (201-280mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (281-560mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (201-400mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (401-800mm max CIZ)
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (101-140mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (141-280mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (101-200mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (201-400mm max CIZ)
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (71-100mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (101-200mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (71-140mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (141-280mm max CIZ)
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (601-840mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (841-1,680mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (601-1,200mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (1,2011-2,400mm max CIZ)
End of notes.
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rx100m3 and rx100m6. rx100m3 is staying home more than I thought, because:
By the time I get home (before I leave the parking lot), 50 cell phone photos have been splashed all over the world, comments, ..., and, they are all off to the next thing. Family members used to wait to see my photos, not anymore. Even if they know your's will be better, they don't care. Next! I might take a few I want, with the camera I have, that's good enough. Forget sharing, it's over, cell phones are very good up close.
All those situations, including concerts, school events, ... want reach, not m1,2,3,4,5. Decent light, m6 get's you what you want, up to 200mm, and, I use SZ to 280mm at 10mp image size. Not long ago we would have paid a lot for 10mp. Beyond that, (because RX10's are too big for me), my Jacket Pocket Zoom is smaller 1/1.7" sensor, but a constant f2.8 lens to 300mm 2x 600mm. There is a cross over point where it beats the m6, depending on light/distance.
That is what I did for years with my R1: 24-120mm f2.8-4.8. Let's stop and think about that: rx100m6 24-200mm f2.8-4.5 (huh, what?).
I had the R1 internal flash, and the big hot shoe flash. I keep saying, put the hot shoe back on the top of the rx100's, and toss a small hot shoe flash in the box. That's what Panasonic does with some models. Then, optionally, we could use a big flash for group shots, the wonderful hot shoe EVF, and of course a full frequency directional mic if Sony would give it a mic jack!!!!
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Close Seats, low light: bring your m1,2,3,4,5. You can do well with m6 24mm f2.8, but, especially if motion involved, f1.8-2.8 24-70mm is better than m6 24mm f2.8 start and the lens darkens quickly as you zoom just a bit.
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e: SONY FOCUS SYSTEM Outline (Sony's Mind Un-Scrambled)
In reply to elliottnewcomb • Feb 5, 2019
5
formatting fixed, (minor changes of no consequence)
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SONY FOCUS SYSTEM OUTLINE. (Sony’s Mind Un-Scrambled)
rx100m6 focus system used, stills only, for touch screen focus, see: X links.
Consider a full reset prior to making changes, to avoid interactive restrictions.
Focus Mode, Focus Area Size, Metering, Shooting Modes: Include them in your Fn Button Menu.
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I Focus Notes.
II Focus Modes. AF, MF, DMF, Tracking, Variations and Assists.
III Focus Area Sizes and Focus Area Locations
IV Focus Standard (movable focus areas: easily find, move, re-center focus areas)
V Image Stabilization
VI Minimum Focus Distance
VII Interactive Restrictions
VIII Custom Key Assignments
IX My Setup
X Links to Sony Help Guides and My Related Threads
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Control of the Focus System is the primary reason to “GET THEE OUT OF AUTO”.
I suggest beginners start with P mode (Program Mode), learn 1 thing at a time.
P mode is like Auto: camera still determines the 3 basics for you: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.
P mode also gives you control of the focus system, metering system, and flash system (settings Auto will not let you change). Aperture, Shutter and Manual modes give you those controls and more.
Start with Focus Control, then Metering. Then if needed/desired: S mode for Shutter Speed/Motion Control, A mode for Aperture Control, primarily to control Focus Depth (shallow or deep), finally Manual.
Hybrid AF Focus System (PDCD) combines Phase Detect (AF points on most of the sensor), with Contrast Detect which finds edges of objects (vertical edges primarily). Speed and Accuracy are enhanced. Super-Fast Continuous Shooting, with individual focus and metering for each shot. (PD points require AF-C focus mode)
Focus Depth (Shallow or Deep), and Backgrounds (Clear or Blurred): focus related, need separate threads
MF: Manual Focus you do it all. Two MF assists, notes below
DMF. Direct Manual Focus (Mix of initial AF and optional MF refinement). notes below
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AF Variations and Assists (Sony now calls Tracking Lock-On)
Pre-Focus; AF-S; AF-C; AF-A; AF-Eye; AF-Face; AF-Smile; Illumination; Center Lock-ON; Lock-On
Optionally, you can lock both Focus and Metering at Half-Press (AEL w/ Shutter ON).
AEL Lock, if enabled, lets you lock the exposure metering independently, prior to a shot. For a single shot or keep that locked exposure for subsequent shots.
AF-Face: Multi/Large Area Size. you choose when to shoot. AF system looks for faces, uses light at faces for metering. Best if faces are essentially the same distance away.
AF-Smile: is a shutter trigger, automatically fires when a smile appears.
Two Lock-On (Tracking) variations (Sony now calls Tracking Lock-On)
Both work with all shooting modes: Single, Continuous, even Bracketing. Of course you would want appropriate steadiness and/or fast enough shutter speed for Motion, or any of the 4 bracketing modes. (single sequence exposure; continuous sequence exposure; white balance; DRO bracketing). Keep in mind: Lock-On does not require a Custom Key (available for something else), Center Lock-On requires a Custom Key.
Note: re-assigning center button, you lose its default Eye AF, other assignment options exist, perhaps C button if not wanting to use Focus Standard to find/move/re-center focus area boxes. Or, as noted, learn Lock-On (no custom key required) skip CLO.
MF Manual Focus, you set focus distance with front ring. Two optional MF assists (menu, camera 1, pg 11)
Using the two assists, after a bit of practice, you get surprisingly quick using MF.
I use Focus Magnifier; Focus Magnif Time: No Limit; Peaking: Low, Color Yellow (red works better on my RX1r evf). Once magnified, using no time limit, it stays magnified until I half press, or fully press the shutter. While viewing magnified, you can wait until something occurs, shoot.
AF/MF Toggle, Instantly toggles from AF to MF, back to AF. Keeping your eye on the EVF/subject
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58890915
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DMF. Direct Manual Focus (Mix of initial AF and optional MF refinement).
Half press initiates and temporarily locks focus distance like AF-S. You can finish the shot or refine that focus distance manually with the front ring. Because AF has instantly occurred, very minor movement of the focus ring is required, thus focus time is faster than MF. If you hold the half-press, if magnification assist is on, magnification occurs, to assist refinement. Peaking, if on, highlights edges of focused objects.
III. FOCUS AREA SIZES and FOCUS AREA LOCATIONS (see Focus Standard below for moving focus areas) Sony has changed the word movable to flexible.
Reduce the focus area size, progressively, as needed to help the AF system find your subject. Focus Boxes (green or white) indicate the area size and location you are using. If using Area Sizes: Zone, Flexible Spot, Expand Flexible Spot, or Lock-On AF, you can move the focus box anywhere within the frame.
Note: if not using Center Lock-ON, an additional Custom Key remains available.
ON for Handheld, what it is designed for
OFF for Tripod, or any Stable surface. (IS nervous twitching can be detrimental).
200mm minimum focus distance is 100cm/39”.
As you zoom, the aperture narrows. This, combined with moving further away from subject, increases the amount of focus depth, and distance from subject effects clear/blurred backgrounds.
VII. INTERACTIVE RESTRICTIONS. (Using AF-C is often required, use it to avoid those restrictions)
‘Operation Not Available’: look at the bottom line, it tells you the setting blocking that function’s use.
VIII. CUSTOM KEY ASSIGNMENTS. (5 customizable keys).
Many options exist, it is confusing. I suggest simply get started, then, after a while, change them. Menu, Camera 2, page 9, top line, Custom Key. Press center button. 3 buttons & 2 rockers can be customized:
Image Size, ISO, DRO/HDR, WB, Creative Style, Picture Effect.
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Sony rx100m6 Support Page
https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/compact-cameras-dsc-rx-series/dsc-rx100m6#manuals
Sony On-Line Help Guide, English (if you right click, save as, you get a shortcut web-link directly to this)
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/index.html
Sony On-Line Help Guide, pick a language
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/h_zz/index.html
Sony Operating Instructions, (PDF you can download, down arrow top line right side) (or, right click, save as)
https://www.sony.com/electronics/su...51dfb71c28329239474ae0b6e169c9e/47378101M.pdf
Touch Pad Focus
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/contents/TP0001212156.html
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My prior threads
Fn Button is the key to using the RX cameras
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55937310
AF/MF Toggle
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58890915
rx100m6 setup suggestions
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61386351
rx100 m3,4,5 setup suggestions
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/59585222
collection of many of my prior threads
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61457004
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RX1r, Setup Suggestions and Notes
Mar 13, 2016
6
I need them written for myself, here is what I have done with my new to me RX1r.
Jpeg Only until I learn the camera, then I will try RAW + Jpeg
Please note any errors so I can fix them. Nigel, skip item 15 please.
Changes from Default
Press AEL button (nice mag symbol next to the button to remind me). AEL button is assigned to Smart Telcon/Zoom. A zoom scale shows up on lcd, use rockers to zoom.
You see a linear scale: optical, then SZ step(s), then CIZ progressive zoom.
BBF Setup (works similarly if you use different button assignments)
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rx100 m3,4,5 Setup Suggestions
May 19, 2017
28
I have rx100m3, much also pertains to m4,5, but their new features are not included. Any corrections, clarifications, additions are appreciated, I will revise this, and add the m1,2 guide as an addendum.
rx100m3 (4,5) Setup Suggestions
Preface
Don’t want to read and understand the manual and/or very huge menu:
This is specific to m3, much is relevant for m4,5 but new features not here.
My 14 page rx100m1 super condensed manual and learning guide will eventually be included as an addendum, some info is good for any rx100, and will not be repeated here, so view it’s index to see if anything might interest you.
m3,4,5 are different, due to very good IS, and steadier EVF arms-in shooting position. They also do not default to 1/30 as much. With that combo, I am able to shoot 1/30, and if I concentrate, I can shoot 1/20, handheld blur free stills, that is a huge difference. Even arms out lcd, due to IS, I can successfully use slower shutter speeds. The m1, manual’s emphasis on S mode is less relevant, so Gold Auto, Green Auto, P, and A mode can be used more successfully.
Auto ISO in M, is possible in m3,4,5; not available in m1,2.
JPEG. I work hard to get the best setup and master the midget marvel to get the best Jpegs, hoping to do none or very little Post Processing. There are very good Jpeg Only features. I encourage RAW shooters to at least try them, see actual results. Usually RAW shooters have more advanced PP skills, so keep in mind, you can apply those skills to Jpeg Only images.
Extra Batteries: I highly recommend an external charger and a few extra batteries. You will need them when learning the menu and full setup. Ebay inexpensive ones work just fine.
Reset/Initialize: I recommend a full reset/initialize before setup, and, I occasionally reset which eliminates any unwanted/inadvertant settings, reminds me of what and why, and, reminds me of options I may now try.
Fn Menu is the key to successful use of these rx100s. I used to hate the huge menu, however, after using my Oly menu, with settings buried in odd places, in sub-menus I cannot remember exist or where they exist, I came to appreciate Sony’s menu. Once learned, it has a single line for nearly everything.
Dust on Sensor: These are dust magnets, and segmented barrel can suck dust inside. Early rx100m1’s, I think especially MIJ (made in japan) units got dust on sensor, me: 3 times, 2 fixed on warranty, current spots, only show at f8 and beyond. I think something was changed when they moved production to China (MIC). Caution is recommended, a dust sock in pockets, keep it in a case even when not in use.
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Initialize, change defaults, re-assign rockers and buttons, master the beast.
After nearly 5 years, this is my setup, follow/modify these, do it your way, make it yours.
EVF: Raise it, and adjust the diopter lever on it’s top, adjust for screen text, not image.
Top Mode Dial in P to Start.
NOTE: Focus Magnified unavailable, because in AF mode, only available when using MF manual focus. More about MF later.
NOTE: Movie only if top dial is moved to Movie.
Second: Press Center Button (enter). Now memory 1 is saved. Move Top Dial to MR. Press center button, top line is in 1, and shows your settings.
NOTE. To set up memory 2 or 3, put top dial in any PASM, make the changes, this time for a different type of shot you do, like Sports (top dial in S). Back to pg 7, now, right rocker till top line shows 2. Now press center button, which saves those changes. Same for register 3. Now, top dial in MR, press menu: rocker over to 1,2,3 Bingo, ready for 1. Landscape; 2. Sports; 3 ____?
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Get in MF, turn front ring, instant magnification 8.6x (option to toggle to 17.1x), Peaking shows on the edges of things in focus. CDAF Contrast Detect focus system finds vertical edges. Turn till the peaking shows on your subject, half press the shutter button, back to framing view, confirm/adjust your framing, shoot.
NOTE: Peaking is only to be used while magnified, it is a mess when in framing view, ignore it, just verify framing.
NOTE: To get back to Magnified from framing, just ‘touch’ the front ring, enough to magnify, but not enough to move the lens much. Confirm or refine focus, shoot.
NOTE: Shooting soft round objects, flowers, bees, you may need to find peaking on a nearby object the same distance away as your soft subject.
NOTE: IF, like me, you have a couple of RX’s, it is nice to have things setup consistently. However: rx100m1,2 give you 7 items in one horizontal line. Rx100m3,4,5 give you 12 items, two horizontal lines of six. RX1r gives you two vertical rows, 13 items. Ashamedly, RX1r items are not assignable.
NOTE: What you put here influences the choices you will later have to re-assign the external rockers and buttons, important.
My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup
Upper 1-6: These are what I change ‘shot to shot’.
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My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup continued
Lower 1-6: These are options I keep here, out of the big menu.
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Or, EYE Focus. I should try it. Perhaps someone can write something to insert here.
Option: one line down is 2nd AEL method. AEL Toggle, preceded by a box with a spot. Perhaps someone can explain this.
Fn Button is the KEY to using any RX Camera, rx100m1,2,3; RX1,RX1r; RX10 (IMO!)
Main Menu is too large to navigate to find and change anything
Fn Button Menu is Small and Fast.
I resisted setting Fn menu up, but, you need it, even in Auto, to change a few things or even just one thing frequently.
Fn is a SHORT PRE-SELECTED MENU, you pick what you want (m1: 7 items; m3/RX10: 12)
Using Fn Button minimizes the need to setup (and remember) any of the 3 MR memories.
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1st. m1: Change ‘Menu Start’ from Top to Previous.
Menu now goes directly to where you were when you got out of it. Good when learning or changing anything. 'Top', default, is the beginning of the huge menu, you lose where you were last. m3, 'Previous' is the default
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2nd: select your Fn Button Items
m1: menu, gear, page 2, Function Button. Press it, you get a page with 7 vertical lines,
Press the Function 1 button: a vertical list of optional settings, use the top and bottom rockers to scroll the list, pick one, press the center button, it becomes the first item in your Fn menu.
Pick the other 6 items you want, ( or other 11 items with m3 and RX10).
Now, press Fn button. Presto, ONLY your 7 or 12 items are there, no confusion or searching is necessary. Simply rock left or right, to the item you want to change, change it, shoot.
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My m1 7 item Fn Button Menu, and why
To get AEL: menu, gear, page 2, 5 line down: Func. of Left Button. Change it to AEL Toggle. Now, when you press the left rocker, AEL is engaged, current exposure is locked, shoot away. Press left rocker again, AEL off.
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reassign the rear right rocker to AF/MF Toggle. (note: default flash control is lost, see flash solution below)
menu, gear, page 4, custom key settings, Right Button: set to AF/MF Ctrl Toggle.
At start up, you are in AF, with your focus area size box in gray on the lcd screen. Press the right rocker, presto, goes to MF mode, focus box changes to a gray circle. Press rocker again, back to AF.
menu, gear page 1,
MF Assist: ON
Focus Magnif Time: No Limit (stays magnified until you half press shutter button)
gear page 2
Peaking Level: Low
Peaking Color: Yellow
Focus Peaking is shown when you enter MF. It is meant to be used only when magnified, after you turn the front ring. Focus peaking finds and highlights the edges of objects that are in focus. You turn the ring until the peaking is shown on the edges of your subject, then, half press, back to normal framing view, ignore the focus peaking, check your framing, finish the shot.
Use MF at any focal length, including macro which is simply shooting wide and moving close to within 2" of subject.
Sony rx100's have no separate macro lens position, they simply focus as close as 2". As mentioned, scene mode Macro is simply presets to work well when that close.
If you zoom, the aperture gets progressively smaller, and minimum focus distance gets longer, at full zoom you cannot be any closer than 10".
So, depth of focus will vary, shallowest when wide and close, progressively more depth of focus as you zoom and move back as needed for that focal length's minimum focus distance. In A mode, you can force even smaller apertures if desired.
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Focus Magnification has two powers, uses rear center button to toggle from default magnification, (8.6X on rx100m3) to double the magnification to 17.2x when center button pressed, back to 8.6x when pressed again, back to normal framing view when shutter button is half pressed. Models magnification factors vary. My RX1r is 5.9x and toggles to 11.7x
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Flash Solution.
the rx100m1 and m2, if flash is 'on', they automatically pop up and fire, so you need to have flash control somewhere, either the default rear right rocker, or put into your Fn button menu as I do. Many never use flash, so nothing lost using right rocker for something else.
happily, m3,4,5 the flash needs to be physically released. So, you can simply leave the flash set to ON, force fill flash, all the time, and simply leave the flash down, it cannot/won't fire. That is why you can easily reassign the right rocker to anything you want.
Flash Compensation
Most people's problems with flash is due to too much flash. I put flash compensation/strength in my Fn button menu. Pop up the flash (it is already on in settings), shoot with flash. Change flash strength shot to shot, typically cutting flash strength. Note: even when using flash cut back, you need to let the flash fully re-charge in camera between shots, otherwise, if not fully charged, it will fire but the strength will not be consistent shot to shot.
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RX10/rx100m3: Bracketing: Exposure, White Balance, DRO, HDR
Jun 3, 2014
1
page references from RX10 476 page manual, different page numbers in manual variations
rx100m3, same Bionz X processor, so, I presume it will do these the same way.
................
last shot taken (+___?) in a bracket series is the one shown when using Auto Review, not 0.0 ev.
216 BRACKETING DRIVE MODES (other bracketing is available via menu settings)
BKT C continuous images each with different degrees of brightness. (hold shutter button down)
BKT S Single Bracket: u pick range, u pick 3 or 5 shots, (press shutter for each successive shot)
BRK WB White Balance: three images: different degrees of brightness according to the selected settings for white balance, color temperature and color filter.
DRO Bracket: three images, each a different degree of D-Range Optimization.
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228 Bracket Order (default 0, -, +), or, (u change it to: -, 0, +)
sets the shooting order for exposure bracketing and white balance bracketing.
222, BRK C, (exposure bracketing, continuous, hold shutter button down)
Bracket Exposure from default 0 ev, or, pre-adjust exposure + or -, then bracket from that setting.
u pick range: +/- .03 up to +/- 3.0 ev; u pick 3 or 5 shots; (default: 3 shots +/- .03 ev)
Manual Drive Mode Exposure Bracketing: two modes depending on Auto ISO or Specific ISO
Manual, Auto ISO: variations are ISO changes
Manual, Specific ISO: variations are shutter speed.
224, BRK S, (same as BRK C, EXCEPT, you choose when to take each shot in the sequence)
u pick range, u pick 3 or 5 shots, then, u press shutter for each sequential shot when desired.
226, BRK WB (3 White Balance variations) u pick range: default Lo, or Hi.
according to the selected settings of white balance, color temperature and color filter.
227, BRK DRO (dynamic range optimization) (3 various DRO shots; 2 ranges: Lo or Hi)
DRO: Lo (default): a series of 3 images with small changes in the D-Range Optimizer value.
DRO: Hi: a series of 3 images with large changes in the D-Range Optimizer value.
232 DRO (dynamic range optimization) (one in-camera created shot)(see BRK DRO for 3 variations)
Creates one dynamic range optimized shot , select the range, Auto, or L1 weak to L5 strong.
"By dividing the image into small areas, the camera analyzes the contrast of light and shadow between the subject and the background, and creates an image with the optimal brightness and gradation".
Note: "the image may be noisy. Select the proper level by checking the recorded image, especially when you enhance the effect".
DRO option is OFF for: Panorama, Multi Frame Noise Reduction, Picture Effect, Many Scenes
234, Auto HDR (high/wide dynamic range) (two shots: normal and in-camera HDR alternate, Jpeg only)
HDR Auto: camera automatically selects the amount of dynamic range
HDR, u set differential range: from weak 1 (ev), to high 6 (ev).
Note: DRO is 'optimized', HDR is intentionally 'wide'
clarifications? errors?
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IN-CAMERA HDR
After watching him work, and seeing the great exposure results Bill gets with his manual blending of bracketed shots, I think, learning HDR technique may be more advised than doing the best RAW can do to single shots. Both HDR and RAW combined has to be awesome. RAW bracketing is always out of camera, therefore tripod is required, that's out for me.
rx100m1 lousy IS was too shakey handheld for me, but, with my m3, I am trying and liking the in-camera HDR feature (jpeg only), Handheld, getting blur free shots with it. Often, better exposures, mid-tones, improved skies, much less need to mess with shadows and highlights afterwards. The skies look like you are using a polarizing filter.
2 Shots. Sony In-Camera HDR gives you the original shot, as per your settings, and a 2nd alternate HDR,by taking over and under exposed shots and blending them for you. Sometimes, I miss the strength of my beloved shadows, then I go back to my single exposed shot, but the HDR shows me what other parts of the shot can be.
To try Jpeg In-Camera HDR:
m3: menu, camera, pg 4, DRO/Auto HDR, press center button; down rocker to HDR Auto; side rocker to select the bracketing range you want: options: +/- 1.0 ev ,2,3,4,5, +/- 6.0 ev. Remember to hold the camera steady, it will take three shots.
C button for HDR.
I leave my menu default as DRO Auto. That lets you select any shooting mode, single, continuous, timer, etc. via the Fn button. Then, I program my C button to be DRO/Auto HDR function. menu, gear, custom key settings; C button, DRO/Auto HDR.
Now, while shooting, want forced HDR: press C button, pick an exposure range, shoot. Like flash compensation, you can change HDR bracketing strength shot to shot. Still learning it.
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RX100 - watercolor effect EXPLAINED
In reply to kimmie92592 • Aug 7, 2016
1
kimmie92592 wrote:
elliottnewcomb wrote:
Glad this popped back to the top. Many more nice shots from you.
I figured it out, for dummies like me, step by step:
Camera, press play button, cycle thru until you
btw, you can move a memory stick from another rx100. I put one from my rx100m3 into my rx100m1, then I can make an alternate watercolor or illustration of any shot on that stick.
I tried shooting RX1r at 10mp image size, then moving it into rx100m1. It will play the image, but will not make an alternate watercolor. Other way, rx100m3 to RX1r shows but will not make an alternate.
Just a test, not a prize image, but from my RX1r, converted in-camera alternate Watercolor. This was one huge Purple Rhody (or Azalea?), on the way up to Bill's house.
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"1st let me clarify the 3 different types of Zooms: OZ, SZ, CIZ.
OZ = optical zoom.
CIZ and SZ are technically different 'extended zooms', JPEGS only. They are progressive, they begin at the end of optical: after the lens stops physically moving (listen/watch zoom scale), they are digital trickery.
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CIZ Clear Image Zoom (not shown here) is two stages: in-camera sensor crop, combined with in-camera up-scaling, back to the original Image size being used. At 20mp you get up to double the reach: m6 CIZ 20mp gives 201-400mm (max 2x at 20mp). At smaller image sizes, 10mp or 5mp, you get even more CIZ.
CIZ is OPTIONALLY ENGAGED, by you in the menu. CIZ has twice the reach of SZ
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SZ Smart Zoom, shown here, is an optical sensor crop, in camera, with no other in-camera processing, no up-scaling like CIZ does.
SZ is AUTOMATICALLY ENGAGED when you use 10mp or 5mp.
SZ is available on all prior rx100's, and RX10's. Early models called it EOZ extended optical zoom, a better name IMO.
Smart Zoom is only available when you drop down in image size, none at 20mp; up to 1.4x using 10mp; up to 2.0x using 5mp.
new rx100m6 therefore gets SZ 201-280mm using 10mp; SZ 201-400mm using 5mp.
Other models: m1 ending 100mm gets 101-140 using 10mp; or 101-200mm using 5mp
m3,4,5 optical end 70mm get 71-128; 71-140mm
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Now the answer about SZ/Smart Telecon:
You can get Smart Zoom in two optional methods.
method 1. Image Size: also allows CIZ, (how I am using it now).
method 2. Smart Telecon. You get Smart Zoom only, (CIZ is blocked out).
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method 1. SZ with option to use CIZ also. (you must change the Jpeg Image Size yourself)
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method 2. SZ ONLY. Assign Smart Telecon to a Custom Key (button or rocker). (C button perhaps) It IS A TOGGLE.
i.e. normally shooting 20mp:
1st press 1.4x (camera changes to 10mp image size for you)
2nd press 2.0x (camera changes to 5mp image size for you)
3rd press, back to OZ (camera changes to 20mp image size for you)
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In all cases, zoom scales and icons appear on the LCD and EVF. In all cases, because they are progressive, you can leave them on and not use them, or, keep zooming when desired.
Using these, you need to have the habit of checking your settings each time you pick your camera up to use it.
Image Size? AF mode? AF area? Metering Area?; Exposure compensation? ....
I still need to get better at that.
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Oh Yeah, Jpeg Compression is independent of OZ, SZ, CIZ, so if using Jpeg Extra Fine, everything will be extra fine, including RAW + Jpeg.
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Focus, Metering, are easier to see when zoomed in with SZ or CIZ, and easier to see something happen, waiting to take the final shutter press. If you can see it better, the AF and Exposure systems can see it better.
Wide Area for both focus and metering is automatically engaged for both SZ and CIZ. That is another way to tell when you have left optical (using spot or center area) when the focus bracket changes to full screen. Zoom back out, bingo, focus box changes back to what you were using, and where you had it.
Manual Focus magnifies the area even further for you to see, time the shot as well as refine focus."
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rx100m6 setup suggestions
CAMERA 1 TAB
page 1
a. Jpeg Quality, extra fine (26% less compression than fine)
b. Panorama Direction UP. (you must turn top wheel to Pano mode to activate Pano settings)
I don't use full wide panos often, so I use it for wider shots than 24mm like this:
UP, then, I turn camera vertically and sweep sideways, not full pano, but wider than 24mm
For full pano, change back to sideways, stnd or wide
page 3
a. Drive Mode, continuous, low speed (3 fps)(default is 24 fps, incredible, I will try 24fps later).
I use low speed to avoid shutter press shake, only hold shutter button a short time, say 3 shots, 1st may have blur, 2nd, third maybe not. especially slow shutter speeds hand held. you can take single shots in continuous, just press and release quickly
rocker down from single to continuous, right rocker, high, mid, LOW
b. Bracket Settings, self timer during bracketing, 2sec, again to avoid shutter press shake.
page 4
a. Focus MODE, AF-S. AF-A is new, single and continuous, camera in charge, I will try it later
b. Focus AREA, Center, you in control, to start, will use spot later
c. Set face priority in AF. OFF for now, don't want camera deciding that until familiar with cam
page 5
a. Phase Detect Area, ON. PDCD is a big part of it's super AF system, u see box where it works
page 6
a. Metering Mode (AREA SIZE), Center, use spot later
b. Spot Metering Point Center, Focus Point Link. Move focus spot, metering spot moves with it
page 7
a. AEL with Shutter, ON. only focus set at half press, exposure taken when shutter fires. I set focus distance at half press, and reframe often, After reframing, lighting is different, exposure not set earlier at a different location. Also, waiting for something, a cloud could move, a big truck could block prior light, a branch moves in a breeze, ..
page 8
a. Red Eye Reduction, ON. To get true eye colors. Pre-flash causes red eye, it instantly dissapates, second, real flash captures real eye colors. Simply tell subjects to hold position/smile a bit longer. Post software RER guesses.
Flash Notes: Leave Flash on Fill Flash. Normally not popped up, doesn't fire. Want flash, simply move the flash release, no need to find and turn it on. I put flash comp in Fn menu, and reduce/raise flash strength shot to shot. Full strength is why people don't like or use flash, proper level gives success when needed. This m6, with darker lens, f2.8 close, perhaps zoomed a bit, will need flash more often than m1,2,3,4,5. Always let flash fully charge, even using it cut back, so it is consistent shot to shot, and your adjustments will be based on prior accurate level. Flash will fire before full charge, but strength will be random, any adjustment from that will also be random.
page 9
a. DRO/Auto HDR, DRO OFF. My m3 trials, DRO works but I don't like what it does, changes textures, shadows, and effective color. You might like it. I like HDR, I shoot handheld, so I don't want auto, I turn it on when enough light to handhold decent shutter speed. You get original based on you settings, and a second HDR shot. I put DRO/HDR in Fn menu
b. Initial Focus Magnification, 5.3X
Magnification Note: When magnified, initially it is 5.3X. Press center button, it toggles to 10.7X, press again, toggles back to 5.3X You can move a box to change what area gets magnified.
page 11
a. Peaking Setting
1. Peaking Display ON
2. Peaking Level, Low
3. Peaking Color, Yellow
Peaking Notes: Peaking is used in Manual Focus, or DMF (direct Manual Focus) while magnified. Turn front ring,magnification occurs, peaking shows on edges of items in focus, in the color chosen, primarily vertical edges. Turn front ring to refine focus on your subject. You can stay magnified, wait for the birds perch, shoot, or, half press shutter, jumps back to framing view. Ignore peaking, simply confirm your framing, shoot when ready. Peaking Low shows less peaking at magnified and normal framing view. If you want, once focus distance is locked, you can hold the camera still front to back, move your head/eye alongside the camera, look at the subject directly, over or around the camera, fire when ready.
page 12
Self Portrait Timer, leave on, it is automatically engaged as you flip the LCD up almost 180 degrees. You will see the self timer icon, you press shutter button, you have 3 secs to pose.
CAMERA 2 Tab
pages 1-4 are about Movies, I know nothing about movies
page 5
a. Release without Card. Disable. Default Enable: if you don't notice 'no card' warning, (I have) you think you are taking photos, shutter fires, adjustments shown in lcd, seems to write to card.
page 6
a. Zoom Speed, FAST. Normal for movies, stopping at precise focal lengths, (can use steps)
page 7
a. DISP Button (rear up rocker). Up rocker toggles thru only the boxes you check.
you can check different boxes for LCD (monitor) and EVF (finder)
1. Monitor: uncheck for viewfinder; check monitor off (right rocker, enter to get those changes).
2. Finder: uncheck histogram (unless you use it); (right rocker, enter).
page 8
a. Auto Review, 2 sec, you can zoom in to confirm focus as soon as the Auto Review shows.
page 9 Custom Operation 1
a. C Button, Smart Telecon pg 14 of 20 (in-camera crop, no upscale) This is an instant toggle, Optical 200mm max; Smart Zoom 1.4x 280mm max; Smart Zoom 2.0x 400mm max, back to optical 200mm max. Icon shows on LCD. Smart Zoom used this way: no need to change Image Size to 10mp or 5 mp. Note: Default ISO is in my Fn menu.
C button also moves the spot focus box back to center when the box is in active (white).
b. Left Button (rocker), AEL Toggle pg 4 of 9 (default drive mode is in my Fn menu)
AEL Note: AEL is only available by custom assignment. When in use, an asterisk appears in the info line at the bottom of the lcd, at the right end. AEL rocker is adjacent to that asteris, intuitive for me.
c. Right Button (rocker), AF/MF Ctrl Toggle line 3 of 19. rx100's do not have focus levers or dials, so this is instant change from AF to MF, toggle back to AF. You can keep your eye on the subject, using LCD or EVF, keep finger on the shutter button, instantly change to MF, refine focus, shoot. Press right rocker again, back to AF
d, Fn Menu Set. your 12 items, in your adjacencies. Settings you might change shot to shot. Items here do not need to be found in the crazy huge menu. One Fn button press, 12 icons, rocker to one, change it. Chech when u turn the camera on, to verify how you left those settings.
My Fn button menu (all instant access to changes)
1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker for AEL
2. Face Detect (in AF) (option if I want it, normally not)
3. Flash Comp (change flash strength shot to shot)
4. Focus Mode (method), AF-S my default, change to any choice instantly
5. Focus Area (size). change center to spot, zone, ... quick and easy.
6. Meter Area (size). often changed with Focus area size.
note adjacency od 4,5,6
7. Image Size (jpeg 20, 10, 5mp)(smart zoom automatically available at 10mp and 5mp)
more Clear Image Zoom is available at 10mp and even more at 5MP.
8. Aspect Ratio
9. DRO/HDR (dynamic range optimizer and or High Dynamic Range (stills)
10. ISO
11. WB White Balance. AWB is excellent outdoors, Indoors generally good, unless mixed light sources i.e. Daylight and Incandescent; Incandescent and energy saving Compact Fluorescent
many optional presets are available to try, and, you can select a specific color temperature (Kelvin), or, use a white card in the space to automatically acquire a WB. I used to be hesitant to change WB, but now, shooting clothes for Donna to sell on eBay, I learned, once learned, easier than you think.
12. Picture Effect. I like High Contrast Black and White and Watercolor. Stupidly, B&W is in Creative Style, not here with High Contrast B&W and Rich B&W. Let me at em'.
page 10
a. Movie Button, Movie Button ONLY. Prevents accidental movie start (I don't do movies)
b. Audio Signals, OFF. Silent in public spaces, does not effect playback volume.
NETWORK TAB
page 1
a. Monitor Brightness, Sunny Weather (see it in glare situations, dark situations)
Glare note: what you see is what is reflected, which is you and your clothes, so, a hat making shadow on your face, a dark blouse/shirt, no pattern, will help.
page 2
a. Delete Confirm, Delete First (don't ask me twice)
b. Display Quality, High. (uses more battery, just have spares).
c. Auto Monitor Off, 10 sec. Try to save battery, may put back to default Not Off
d. Power Save Start Time, 5 minutes. Don't want it turning while learning the menu, and, when strolling, looking for photo opportunities, don't want it turning off too often. May use less battery than turning on/off, extending/closing lens, ...
page 3
Touch Operation, OFF. After a while, I will turn it on, but too soon, too much to learn now.
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My Menu, I will post separately
I picked 30 items, and entered them Alphabetically. No need to go into god awful crazy menu for the things I might change, now and again, (not shot to shot, they are in Fn button menu).
My 'My Menu' choices
1st make your Fn Menu choices, they are the ones you want near instant access to
My Fn button menu (one button press, 12 icons, rocker to icon, change it)
1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker for AEL
2. Face Detect (in AF) (option if I want it, normally not)
3. Flash Comp (change flash strength shot to shot)
4. Focus Mode (method), AF-S my default, change to any choice instantly
5. Focus Area (size). change center to spot, zone, ... quick and easy.
6. Meter Area (size). often changed with Focus area size.
note adjacency of 4,5,6
7. Image Size (jpeg 20, 10, 5mp)(smart zoom automatically available at 10mp and 5mp)
more Clear Image Zoom is available at 10mp and even more at 5MP.
8. Aspect Ratio
9. DRO/HDR (dynamic range optimizer and or High Dynamic Range (stills)
10. ISO
11. WB White Balance. AWB is excellent outdoors, Indoors generally good, unless mixed light sources i.e. Daylight and Incandescent; Incandescent and energy saving Compact Fluorescent
many optional presets are available to try, and, you can select a specific color temperature (Kelvin), or, use a white card in the space to automatically acquire a WB. I used to be hesitant to change WB, but now, shooting clothes for Donna to sell on eBay, I learned, once learned, easier than you think.
12. Picture Effect. I like High Contrast Black and White and Watercolor. Stupidly, B&W is in Creative Style, not here with High Contrast B&W and Rich B&W. Let me at em'.
MY MENU
I made a list, sorted them A to Z. Items NOT in Fn Menu, but I want to find easily, perhaps repeatedly, only 5 pages of 6 items, in alphabetical order
AEL with Shutter
AF Illuminator
Airplane Mode
Auto Monitor Off
Auto Review
Bracket Settings
................................
Center Lock On AF (tracking focus)
Custom Key
Creative Style
Disp Button
Face Priority in MULTI (Focus Area Size)
.........note: Face Recognition in AF (any focus area size) is in Fn button menu
Fn Menu set
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Format
Initial Focus Magnification
Monitor Brightness
Panorama Direction
Peaking Settings
Phase Detect Area
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Power Save Start Time
Red Eye Reduction
Set Face Priority in AF
Smile Shutter
Soft Skin Effect
Spot Metering Point Center
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SteadyShot
Touch Operation
Touch Panel/Pad
Zebra
Zoom Speed
...........blank.......... (add a trial/temp item here, out of alphabetical order
I am actively shooting now, learning, and I have found My Menu is a life saver changing any of those 30 items.
Any time I have to find something not in Fn or MyMenu, it's very frustrating, especially outdoors with some glare on the LCD. Takes a long time, and you sometimes miss it, and have to back thru all the pages, find it, change it.
I can't shut up about it, but repeated search in the main menu while shooting, while learning, batteries, batteries.
I have been going thru stages of blur avoidance, trying slower shutter speeds, to help this lens keep low ISO.
continuous shooting, slow 3fps speed,
self timer 2 sec
hdr, which is 3 shots, then power for in-camera processing, then recording 2 images
all these use more power than normal also.
DRO involves processing, HDR and MFNR involve multi-shots and processing, the way I frequently hold half press focus and wait for something, all are terriific capabilities, using more power than simpler use.
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Just reset my rx100m6, now to make it mine:
I will actively use SZ, occasionally take a separate/alternate closer shot using CIZ.
Turn CIZ on in the main menu, therefore CIZ available at 20mp, 10mp, 5mp. Use it or not.
See zoom scale on lcd or in EVf, or, listen, zoom motor stops: that is end of Optical.
SZ automatically becomes available at 10mp, more at 5mp after Optical, Before CIZ
CIZ at 20mp and goes further at 10mp and 5mp. (range varies for each model).
Note: RX1r has no zoom, thus no CIZ. It has Smart Telecon Toggle, so C button is Smart Telecon, 1.4x, 2.0x, (automatically changes Image Size: 10mp, 5mp, back to 20mp. Icon shows.
SZ and CIZ. lots of info here:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4303505
The Sony manuals are at....
RX100M6 https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/index.html
RX10M4 https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1720/v1/en/index.html
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rx100m6 MY MENU
Try menus, get started, change them as you figure it out, which items, what order, what adjacencies, wil become clear.
My Menu, pg 263 Help Guide
Main Menu is 6 categories, 34 primary pages, hard to remember where something is.
Initially used to learn and setup the camera, best avoided after that.
My Menu is an alternate Menu you create: 6 items per page, 5 pages, maximum 30 items. Much easier and faster to find the items you put there.
Supplements the Fn button menu, but different
put settings you may use, or are learning. Only search 5 pages to find any item you put there.
After a while you may change the items, adjacencies, which page you put stuff on.
*** my menu ***
11 airplane mode
12 monitor brightness
13 focus mode
14 focus area
15 panorama size
16 panorama direction
-- hide signature --
21 iso
22 exp comp
23 white balance
24 dro/auto hdr
25 creative style
26 picture profile
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31 gamma disp boost
32 zebras
33 peaking
34 mic level
35 movie rec settings
36 movie proxy record
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41 shutter type
42 bracket settings
43 zoom speed
44 af drive speed
44 af track sens
45 ___
46 ___
---
51 function menu set
52 stills custom key set
53 ___
54 mr store
55 format
56 version
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Plays Nicely with My Other Cameras
I realize I am very fortunate to have this collection of cameras.
Pre-ordered rx100m1, paid full price (it just died). I waited 2 years for a good deal on a used RX1r with EVF (my first and only FF). Paid full price for Oly Stylus 1, found used tele 510mm lens. Waited long time to get open box rx100m3; Was willing to pay full price, but got lucky with this open box rx100m6. Don't forget, it's my 70th birthday prize.
I bought and kept the new rx100m6. It's versatility is amazing. It adds, not replaces.
My images posted, max 11" high viewed or printed: it is already hard to tell the difference of Stylus 1 to rx100, and, if Shallow Focus not involved, hard to tell the difference rx100 to RX1r. It is about features providing capabilities.
I am keeping my rx100m3, RX1r, Stylus 1, adding my new rx100m6
they are distinct in their capability, distinct sizes, portability is very important.
low light/motion, close. my brightest lens. Crop 'lower ISO/less noise' shots. Outdoor CPL in other pocket, or belt case.
Shallow Focus depth provides artistic capabilities others do not. Very high IQ, but, I view or print no larger than 11" high. Higher IQ not easily apparent, Shallow Focus easily seen, even at icon size. Outdoor CPL, etc. in small shoulder bag with camera. Note: fits Jacket Pocket without EVF. Limited by fixed lcd, cannot shoot over peoples heads, etc.
zoom for kids sports, birds, detail shots (not crops).
Crop 12mp some, not much; small sensor best ISO 800 or below.
Outdoor CPL needs Adapter Tube CLA-13. Tele needs same tube. Both kept together in a separate bag, to take separately, or attach the camera, fits in that bag, only 9" long.
Outdoor CPL in other pocket or belt/small shoulder bag.
surprisingly good IS and Jpeg Noise Reduction increases ability of darker lens.
increased shallow focus capability in 100-200mm range due to 1" sensor size.
Amazing PDCD AF system, incredible 24/10/3 fps, individual focus and exposure.
Note: I intend to further explore Jpeg features to improve low light capability: ISO MFNR (multi-frame noise reduction)(primary multi-shot blend); DRO (dynamic range optimiser) (primary, single shot, in-camera processing)(under-exposes highlights, selectively lifts shadows); HDR (high dymamic range)(alternate multi-shot blend)(original single shot as per settings taken also).
It is extremely versatile, however, Stylus 1 will best it for bright zoom, or more zoom.
Note: 200mm occasionally too short for Ben's soccer games now. Larger fields coming. Seats further away coming. I will test SZ 10mp 280 and 5mp 400mm, see what results I get. I use Oly 2X with no hesitation, so it is ready for larger fields and more distant seats, always 12mp.
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rx100 m1, m3, m6, Face Dimensions, Will filter adapters fit?
In reply to elliottnewcomb • Jul 12, 2018
elliottnewcomb wrote:
my m6 arrived today, I will somehow be using a CPL outdoors.
The MagFilter ring just fits the lens face of the m6 lens barrel, both 37mm OD.
MagFilter ring 32mm ID does not block the lens opening
BUT, I gave my MagFilter adapter plates away!
What is the ID of the MagFilter Adapter Plate?
Will the adapter plate block any of the lens opening?
m6 lens opening is rectangular, 19mm h, 25mm w, 32mm diagonal
Kiwi plate, 34mm ID, on m6 37mm barrel face gives only 1.5mm wide circular surface of adhesive, will that be enough?
Kiwi is firm on my m3 42.5 mm barrel face, has 4+ mm wide circular surface of adhesive.
Elliott
Corrected Drawing, focus rings diameters revised, m1 is 58mm, m3 and m6 are 56mm.
Focus Ring's are different.
m1 is 58mm diameter, raised 1mm around the 56mm lens body. textured, very easy to feel/find/use
m3 is 56mm diameter, same as 56mm lens body. smoother texture, harder to feel/find/use
m6 is also 56mm, has new texture, very nice, easy to feel/find/use
…………
Inside diameter of MagFilter Adapter plates are 32mm, same size as 32mm ID of the metal ring.
They do not block the lens opening, so they can be used on the rx100m6 lens face
END OF 2023 TO 2021
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Select ALL, copy, open your blank document, Paste. Later delete what you couldn't care less about
..............................................DPREVIEW INFORMATION From SONY threads
Sony Jpeg Extended Zooms Explained
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4373614
In-Camera Extended Zoom Types Explained
(Jpeg Only) ....... please don’t have the RAW vs Jpeg discussion here. ......
examples are based on rx100m6 (see VII. for all other RX models)
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CONDENSED VERSION
OZ (Optical Zoom) … SZ (Smart Zoom) … CIZ (Clear Image Zoom) … DZ (Digital Zoom)
x Factors: (OZ = 1.0x) (SZ @ 10mp = 1.4x; @ 5mp = 2.0x) (CIZ @ 20mp = 2.0x; @ 10mp = 2.8x; @ 5mp = 4.0x)
EXTENDED Focal Length = Optical Focal Length … multiplied by … Sony x Factor (i.e. 200mm x 1.4x = 280mm)
EXIF Digital Zoom Line (exact) is the Same as Sony’s ___x Factor (rounded). OZ is EXIF Digital Zoom: 1.
Exceeding OZ: a magnifying glass icon appears on the zoom bar with a number ( the x Factor) (the __x Factor increases as you keep zooming, i.e. 1.3x … 1.4x, … 2.8x … 4.0x). EXIF Digital Zoom Line Exceeds 1.
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All rx100’s and RX10’s have: OZ, SZ, CIZ, DZ.
Later models also have ST (Smart Telecon) which is a Method of Toggling SZ.
RX1’s have ST and CIZ. (ST via AEL button): Toggles Sensor Crops: 50mm; 70mm; back to 35mm. (CIZ via right rocker) zooms 1.1x to 2.0x = 36-70mm
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OUTLINE
- Simple Definitions of OZ; SZ; ST; CIZ; DZ
- Why Use Them? My Reasons.
- Detailed Explanations of SZ AND CIZ
- ST (Smart Telecon) a Method of SZ Toggle) (no CIZ using ST)
- EXIF and EXIF Deductive Math (diplomas will be given)
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- SIMPLE DEFINITIONSof OZ; SZ; ST; CIZ; DZ:
SZ = Smart Zoom = In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop, no digital processing. Only at 10mp or 5mp image sizes
ST = Smart Telecon = a method of Rapidly Toggling SZ. (No CIZ using ST). no digital processing.
CIZ = Clear Image Zoom = In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop and In-Camera Digital Processing (upscaling: inventing, guessing, creating new pixels digitally)
DZ = Digital Zoom. All Digital Processing. I never tried current DZ, Anyone???.
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- WHY USE THEM?My reasons.
Effortless; Occasional/Situational Use; Surprisingly Good (good enough for you?)
View/Focus/Meter while magnified. Discover something you were otherwise unaware of. You can combine extra zoom with focus magnification assist (very magnified). Magnification gives the ability to see your remote subject clearly, and, because so visible you can wait for something to finish the shot:
i.e. bird winks at you, lion lifts his head, croc swallows something, cloud moves, momentary stillness, wind blows a branch in or out of the way, truck making shadow/blocking ….. moves, a myriad of things not easily visible if viewing OZ shorter focal length, perhaps not ideal timing revealed in a post crop.
Both focus and metering automatically change to full screen area size. That seems a disadvantage, however you are zoomed in so much that full screen area size is perhaps smaller than spot area size from afar using OZ. Focus and Metering systems see only your magnified area.
ALL Extra Zoom retains/uses the camera’s aperture at the end of optical zoom. IF IQ good enough for you, the retained aperture can actually beat a longer optical lens that is darker/higher iso/noise/requires longer shutter speed/blur.
In all cases, zoom scales and icons appear on the LCD and EVF. In all cases, because they are progressive, you can leave them on and not use them, or, keep zooming a little, or a lot, as desired.
SZ and CIZ are far better than any past DZ you might have seen.
I always say, even RAW shooters: “At least try them so you know”. If interested: keep checking these features out on each new model/processor: CIZ upscaling algorithms progressively improve. In-camera processing power increases.
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III. CONFUSIONS
Is it Digital Zoom? OZ and SZ: No. CIZ: Partly. DZ: Totally
SZ or CIZ are often erroneously called Digital Zoom. This leads to misunderstandings.
Extra Zooms are entered/used Sequentially: OZ, then SZ automatically, then optionally CIZ or DZ with CIZ.
EXIF shows all extra zoom in a separate line: ‘Digital Zoom’ (Sony SZ, CIZ, DZ names are gone) (EXIF notes part VI)
SZ Automatically Occurs at 10mp or 5mp image sizes (no menu option)
CIZ or DZ are Optionally Engaged: CIZ without DZ, or DZ which also engages CIZ (CIZ occurs before DZ).
SZ and CIZ can be engaged together and will be entered/used progressively.
ST is a Method of using SZ, not a separate zoom type.
Extra Zoom Power, both SZ and CIZ Increases when you Decrease the Image Size
Jpeg Compression is Independent of OZ, SZ, CIZ. If using Jpeg Extra Fine, everything will be Extra Fine.
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- DETAILED EXPLANATIONS of SZ and CIZ
An optical in-camera sensor crop, with no other in-camera processing. It is the same as a crop you would make later in software. No extra pixels created. Crops have increasingly fewer pixels. An in-camera SZ crop, and a matching crop in your software will have the same # of pixels. Of course post crops can be of either Jpeg or RAW images.
SZ is Automatically Engaged (if/when you use 10mp or 5mp Image Sizes). There is no menu option. Watch the zoom bar/listen to the zoom motor, using 10mp or 5mp image size, after 200mm OZ a magnifier icon appears with a number i.e. 1.3x.
20mp image size: SZ: None. CIZ, if engaged, starts after the end of OZ
10mp image size: SZ range is 1.1x to 1.4x. (201-280mm max optical crop, no upscale),
5mp image size SZ range 1.1x to 2.0x (201-400mm max optical crop, no upscale).
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CIZ Clear Image Zoom (optional, you must turn it on in the menu) (always double the extra reach of SZ)
Two stages: In-Camera Optical Sensor Crop AND In-Camera Digital Processing (up-scaling, new pixels created. upscaled to the original Image size being used.
It is progressive: use it some, some new pixels are created. Use it more, more pixels are created.
A simplification: 20mp image size, full CIZ use for 400mm: stage one: optical sensor crop of 20mp image size. Let’s say that results in 10mp. Stage two: upscale, digitally guess and create 10mp new pixels to get back to full 20mp pixel count.
This is the part where improving algorithms play a part. And, improving processors need to be capable and quick.
It is the same as if you later made a matching crop from a 20mp optical shot, (now 10mp left), and then upscale digitally in your software, back to 20mp. Difference is: you did not see magnified when shooting, however you may prefer your software, and your computer’s processing. Of course post crops can be of either Jpeg or RAW images.
If you compare an in-camera CIZ to a post crop that has not been upscaled, the CIZ will have more pixels, the larger the crop, the larger the pixel difference is.
For me, this is where SZ and CIZ being EFFORTLESS begins and ends. Then, is it good enough?
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- ST Smart Telecon= a methodof Rapidly Toggling SZ as fixed steps, not progressive zoom. Image Sizes are also Toggled Automatically. Magnifier Icon with x Factor appears on lcd.
While shooting OZ 20mp Image Size:
1st press instantly jumps to SZ 1.4x (and changes to 10mp image size)
2nd press instantly jumps to SZ 2.0x (and changes to 5mp image size)
3rd press, jumps back to OZ 1.0x 20mp Image Size.
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- EXIF
EXIF has 3 lines for zoom information.
- Focal Length (actual lens focal length, irrespective of sensor size).
- 35mm Focal Length (equivalent to 35mm film/FF Sensor) (the crop factor math is calculated for you)
- Digital Zoom. ALL Optical Photos, show ‘Digital Zoom: 1 (which means no extra zoom used).
EXIF Digital #s (exact) Correspond to Sony’s __x #s (rounded). i.e. Sony SZ 1.4x: EXIF # might be 1.43456
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EXIF DEDUCTIVE MATH (is this OZ, an OZ Crop, SZ or CIZ)?
If Digital Zoom 1. It is OZ or OZ Crop
If Digital Zoom greater than 1. It is SZ or CIZ. Which One? answer depends on the image size:
20mp image size: (no SZ at 20mp). CIZ from 1.1000 to 2.0000 = 201-400mm max
10mp image size: SZ first, 1.1000 to 1.4000 = 201-280mm max; then CIZ begins 1.4100 to 2.8000 = 281-560mm.
5mp image size: SZ first, 1.1000 to 2.000 = 201-400mm then CIZ begins 2.1000 to 4.000 = 401-800mm.
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VII. ALL RX MODELS EXTENDED ZOOM RANGES
Reminder: SZ = Optical Sensor Crop. CIZ = Optical Sensor Crop + Digital Upscaling
- rx100m6OZ 24-200mm (used in examples above) (RX10m1,2 are the same)
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (201-280mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (281-560mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (201-400mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (401-800mm max CIZ)
- rx100m1,m2OZ 28-100mm
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (101-140mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (141-280mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (101-200mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (201-400mm max CIZ)
- rx100m3,4,5OZ 24-70mm
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (71-100mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (101-200mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (71-140mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (141-280mm max CIZ)
- RX10m1,m2: OZ 24-200mm = same range as rx100m6 #s above
- RX10m4OZ 24-600mm (get ready for some big numbers)
10mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 1.4x (601-840mm max SZ) then CIZ 1.5x to 2.8x (841-1,680mm max CIZ)
5mp image size: OZ, then SZ 1.1x to 2.0x (601-1,200mm max SZ) then CIZ 2.1x to 4.0x (1,2011-2,400mm max CIZ)
- RX1r, RX1rIIOZfixed 35mm, and ST (SZ toggled) 50mm and 70mm optical sensor crops, and CIZ 36-70mm
End of notes.
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rx100m3 and rx100m6. rx100m3 is staying home more than I thought, because:
- Cell Phones
By the time I get home (before I leave the parking lot), 50 cell phone photos have been splashed all over the world, comments, ..., and, they are all off to the next thing. Family members used to wait to see my photos, not anymore. Even if they know your's will be better, they don't care. Next! I might take a few I want, with the camera I have, that's good enough. Forget sharing, it's over, cell phones are very good up close.
- Sports
- Wait for good light.
All those situations, including concerts, school events, ... want reach, not m1,2,3,4,5. Decent light, m6 get's you what you want, up to 200mm, and, I use SZ to 280mm at 10mp image size. Not long ago we would have paid a lot for 10mp. Beyond that, (because RX10's are too big for me), my Jacket Pocket Zoom is smaller 1/1.7" sensor, but a constant f2.8 lens to 300mm 2x 600mm. There is a cross over point where it beats the m6, depending on light/distance.
- rx100m6 f2.8 is very close to rx100m3 f1.8
- rx100m6 has a flash.
That is what I did for years with my R1: 24-120mm f2.8-4.8. Let's stop and think about that: rx100m6 24-200mm f2.8-4.5 (huh, what?).
I had the R1 internal flash, and the big hot shoe flash. I keep saying, put the hot shoe back on the top of the rx100's, and toss a small hot shoe flash in the box. That's what Panasonic does with some models. Then, optionally, we could use a big flash for group shots, the wonderful hot shoe EVF, and of course a full frequency directional mic if Sony would give it a mic jack!!!!
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Close Seats, low light: bring your m1,2,3,4,5. You can do well with m6 24mm f2.8, but, especially if motion involved, f1.8-2.8 24-70mm is better than m6 24mm f2.8 start and the lens darkens quickly as you zoom just a bit.
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e: SONY FOCUS SYSTEM Outline (Sony's Mind Un-Scrambled)
In reply to elliottnewcomb • Feb 5, 2019
5
formatting fixed, (minor changes of no consequence)
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SONY FOCUS SYSTEM OUTLINE. (Sony’s Mind Un-Scrambled)
rx100m6 focus system used, stills only, for touch screen focus, see: X links.
Consider a full reset prior to making changes, to avoid interactive restrictions.
Focus Mode, Focus Area Size, Metering, Shooting Modes: Include them in your Fn Button Menu.
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I Focus Notes.
II Focus Modes. AF, MF, DMF, Tracking, Variations and Assists.
III Focus Area Sizes and Focus Area Locations
IV Focus Standard (movable focus areas: easily find, move, re-center focus areas)
V Image Stabilization
VI Minimum Focus Distance
VII Interactive Restrictions
VIII Custom Key Assignments
IX My Setup
X Links to Sony Help Guides and My Related Threads
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- FOCUS NOTES.
Control of the Focus System is the primary reason to “GET THEE OUT OF AUTO”.
I suggest beginners start with P mode (Program Mode), learn 1 thing at a time.
P mode is like Auto: camera still determines the 3 basics for you: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.
P mode also gives you control of the focus system, metering system, and flash system (settings Auto will not let you change). Aperture, Shutter and Manual modes give you those controls and more.
Start with Focus Control, then Metering. Then if needed/desired: S mode for Shutter Speed/Motion Control, A mode for Aperture Control, primarily to control Focus Depth (shallow or deep), finally Manual.
Hybrid AF Focus System (PDCD) combines Phase Detect (AF points on most of the sensor), with Contrast Detect which finds edges of objects (vertical edges primarily). Speed and Accuracy are enhanced. Super-Fast Continuous Shooting, with individual focus and metering for each shot. (PD points require AF-C focus mode)
Focus Depth (Shallow or Deep), and Backgrounds (Clear or Blurred): focus related, need separate threads
- FOCUS MODES
MF: Manual Focus you do it all. Two MF assists, notes below
DMF. Direct Manual Focus (Mix of initial AF and optional MF refinement). notes below
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AF Variations and Assists (Sony now calls Tracking Lock-On)
Pre-Focus; AF-S; AF-C; AF-A; AF-Eye; AF-Face; AF-Smile; Illumination; Center Lock-ON; Lock-On
- Pre-Focus, (default on) occurs before Half Press Focus Initiation. It pre-positions the lens so you can see your subject well, and the final focus requires very little lens movement, faster finish.
- Half Press: Focus Lock, or, Focus Initiation,distance is found and locked (AF-S), or found and continually updated (AF-C), (see below). Full press activates the shutter.
- Exposure Metering occurs at final press/not half press (default). (AEL w/ Shutter OFF).
Optionally, you can lock both Focus and Metering at Half-Press (AEL w/ Shutter ON).
AEL Lock, if enabled, lets you lock the exposure metering independently, prior to a shot. For a single shot or keep that locked exposure for subsequent shots.
- Metering Option: Focus Point Link. IF you are using any off-center focus area box, the metering location can be linked, and will be taken wherever the focus box is located.
- AF-S,(Single). At half press, focus distance is locked and held. Confirm AF system set focus distance based on your subject. If not, release half press, aim slightly differently, half press again, now your subject? You can Hold Half Press Focus Lock, wait for something (baby smile, cloud to move, animal position, and/or reframe, whatever, finish the shot whenever. Nothing happening, release the half-press, start again.
- AF-C, (Continuous) at half press focus distance is initially found, then continually updated, until you finish the shot. Works with Continuous Shooting, Bracketing, other shooting modes. AF-C, like AF-S, sees only the objects in the focus area box, it is best for front to back movement. If side to side movement occurs, you must pan sideways to keep the focus area box on your moving subject. Note: Continuous Shooting, Lock-ON AF, Phase Detect all require AF-C).
- AF-A. Camera, not you, determines whether to use AF-S or AF-C. Nigel says it works well, jumps to AF-C for PD points automatically.
- AF-Eye; AF-Face; AF-Smilepre-assigned preferences.
AF-Face: Multi/Large Area Size. you choose when to shoot. AF system looks for faces, uses light at faces for metering. Best if faces are essentially the same distance away.
AF-Smile: is a shutter trigger, automatically fires when a smile appears.
- AF Illuminator. An infrared beam of light, so the AF system can see in the dark.
Two Lock-On (Tracking) variations (Sony now calls Tracking Lock-On)
Both work with all shooting modes: Single, Continuous, even Bracketing. Of course you would want appropriate steadiness and/or fast enough shutter speed for Motion, or any of the 4 bracketing modes. (single sequence exposure; continuous sequence exposure; white balance; DRO bracketing). Keep in mind: Lock-On does not require a Custom Key (available for something else), Center Lock-On requires a Custom Key.
- Lock-On AF. (AF-C focus mode only, enables PD points) (no custom key required) It is an AF Focus Mode (oddly located in focus area size settings). It can use any area size, in any area location you choose. Once set up, it is quick to use.
- choose AF-C focus mode
- choose Lock-ON AF in AF Area Size options, bottom of the choices.
- Set which area size Lock-On will use via l/r rockers.
- white focus area box appears, move it where you want to start tracking
- aim at something in chosen location, half press, green PD points show initially in area location you chose, finds subject (if one), then it automatically tracks what it found in the initial location. Aim at blank wall or sky, white box, nothing to find, no green PD points, no tracking. You may need to Pan to help keep the tracking on your subject.
- Set-up (turn on in menu, and assign CLO to a custom key)
- Assign Center Lock-On to a custom key. (I recommend rear center button).
Note: re-assigning center button, you lose its default Eye AF, other assignment options exist, perhaps C button if not wanting to use Focus Standard to find/move/re-center focus area boxes. Or, as noted, learn Lock-On (no custom key required) skip CLO.
- Use it. (with your thumb, keeping your eye on the EVF/subject).
- Press CLO assigned button, (i.e. rear center button), goes to CLO page.
- Rocker down to ON, press center button again. White focus box appears, in the center, awaits assignment. (it retains ON, no need to rocker down after initial use)
- Aim at subject in the white box, press center button, now subject assigned
- White box starts tracking the assigned subject. Subject moves, you move, or both. Focus distance is taken when you half-press, so do a full press quickly.
MF Manual Focus, you set focus distance with front ring. Two optional MF assists (menu, camera 1, pg 11)
Using the two assists, after a bit of practice, you get surprisingly quick using MF.
- Focus Magnifier
ccurs when you turn the front ring. Toggle to any location. - Magnification Toggle. Initial magnification is 5.3x. Press center button, it toggles to 10.7x. Press again, back to 5.3x. Half-Press returns to 1.0x.
- Peaking:highlights the edges of objects in focus. Turn focus ring, easily see the peaking on the edges of your magnified subject. You can stay magnified, see something more easily, wait, finish the shot whenever. Peaking is best used while magnified.
I use Focus Magnifier; Focus Magnif Time: No Limit; Peaking: Low, Color Yellow (red works better on my RX1r evf). Once magnified, using no time limit, it stays magnified until I half press, or fully press the shutter. While viewing magnified, you can wait until something occurs, shoot.
AF/MF Toggle, Instantly toggles from AF to MF, back to AF. Keeping your eye on the EVF/subject
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58890915
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DMF. Direct Manual Focus (Mix of initial AF and optional MF refinement).
Half press initiates and temporarily locks focus distance like AF-S. You can finish the shot or refine that focus distance manually with the front ring. Because AF has instantly occurred, very minor movement of the focus ring is required, thus focus time is faster than MF. If you hold the half-press, if magnification assist is on, magnification occurs, to assist refinement. Peaking, if on, highlights edges of focused objects.
III. FOCUS AREA SIZES and FOCUS AREA LOCATIONS (see Focus Standard below for moving focus areas) Sony has changed the word movable to flexible.
Reduce the focus area size, progressively, as needed to help the AF system find your subject. Focus Boxes (green or white) indicate the area size and location you are using. If using Area Sizes: Zone, Flexible Spot, Expand Flexible Spot, or Lock-On AF, you can move the focus box anywhere within the frame.
- Multi/Large Area Size/Full LCD. (Default Area Size for Auto, Jpeg Extra Zooms SZ and CIZ).
- Zone (you set the size and location of a zone)
- Center/Medium Area Size (always centered, aim directly at your subject, shoot)
- Flexible Spot (movable) 3 spot sizes, l/m/s. you move the focus box anywhere. When the flexible spot is active, you can rotate the control wheel to toggle thru spot sizes l/m/s.
- Expand Flexible Spot (movable). starts with small spot area size, with option for AF system to automatically expand to medium spot size (i.e. you aim your small spot just to the side of a bird’s head, camera sees nothing, expands, sees head, uses head for focus distance).
- Focus Confirmation Audible beeps are default, however, that means AF system found ‘something’, not necessarily your subject, especially using Multi/Large Focus Area Size. IMO: turn it off, Confirm focus yourself! I turn that annoying shutter noise off also!
- FOCUS STANDARD(easily find, move, re-center any movable focus area box). Importantly you can keep your eye on the EVF, finger on the shutter, while using this with your thumb.
- ASSIGN Focus Standard to a Custom Key(left and right rockers are excluded)
Note: if not using Center Lock-ON, an additional Custom Key remains available.
- USE IT.
- IMAGE STABILIZATION(IS) SteadyShot (Stills: menu, camera 2, page 5) (IS for Video: pg 3)
ON for Handheld, what it is designed for
OFF for Tripod, or any Stable surface. (IS nervous twitching can be detrimental).
- MINIMUM FOCUS DISTANCE(increases progressively as you zoom).
200mm minimum focus distance is 100cm/39”.
As you zoom, the aperture narrows. This, combined with moving further away from subject, increases the amount of focus depth, and distance from subject effects clear/blurred backgrounds.
VII. INTERACTIVE RESTRICTIONS. (Using AF-C is often required, use it to avoid those restrictions)
‘Operation Not Available’: look at the bottom line, it tells you the setting blocking that function’s use.
VIII. CUSTOM KEY ASSIGNMENTS. (5 customizable keys).
- First, set up your 12 item Fn Button Menu, for settings you might change shot to shot. Then you know what you don’t need the 5 custom keys to do.
Many options exist, it is confusing. I suggest simply get started, then, after a while, change them. Menu, Camera 2, page 9, top line, Custom Key. Press center button. 3 buttons & 2 rockers can be customized:
- Control Ring, 4 pages of choices
- C Button, 20 pages of choices
- Center Button, 20 pages of choices
- Left Rocker, 19 pages of choices
- Right Rocker, 20 pages of choices.
- My Set-UP. (caution: write your set-up down, you may want/need a reset, get them back easily)
- Fn Menu:
Image Size, ISO, DRO/HDR, WB, Creative Style, Picture Effect.
- Custom Keys
- Control Ring: Standard (default).
- C Button. Focus Standard (now). (default is ISO, it’s already in Fn Menu), Past uses: Smart TeleCon, Aspect Ratio; Finder/Monitor Select (turn LCD off in public places)
- Center Button. Eye AF (default). I never tried it, it’s about time. Past uses: Monitor Brightness. I sometimes darken the LCD to -2. Dark, see just enough to frame in an audience, without disturbing others.
- Left Rocker:AEL Lock. (default is Drive Mode, it’s already in Fn Menu). Left rocker because, when AEL is activated, an asterisk appears at the right end of the LCD info line, that puts the AEL left rocker intuitively adjacent to the asterisk.
- Right Rocker, AF/MF Toggle. (default flash, flash is already in Fn Menu) Use AF all day long, want MF, keep eye on EVF, press right rocker, presto MF, use it, press the right rocker again, it toggles back to AF.
- My Menu:New models have another way to help you stay out of the huge main menu. You put what you want, 30 items maximum. I made my list and put them in alphabetically, what a treat.
- Flash Note:I leave flash on. camera 1, page 8, fill flash. It will not fire unless you manually release the flash, so: on, but off. Simply release it and blast away. I cut its strength in Fn menu: flash compensation.
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- Links to Sony Support and my prior threads
Sony rx100m6 Support Page
https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/compact-cameras-dsc-rx-series/dsc-rx100m6#manuals
Sony On-Line Help Guide, English (if you right click, save as, you get a shortcut web-link directly to this)
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/index.html
Sony On-Line Help Guide, pick a language
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/h_zz/index.html
Sony Operating Instructions, (PDF you can download, down arrow top line right side) (or, right click, save as)
https://www.sony.com/electronics/su...51dfb71c28329239474ae0b6e169c9e/47378101M.pdf
Touch Pad Focus
https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/contents/TP0001212156.html
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My prior threads
Fn Button is the key to using the RX cameras
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55937310
AF/MF Toggle
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58890915
rx100m6 setup suggestions
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61386351
rx100 m3,4,5 setup suggestions
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/59585222
collection of many of my prior threads
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61457004
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RX1r, Setup Suggestions and Notes
Mar 13, 2016
6
I need them written for myself, here is what I have done with my new to me RX1r.
Jpeg Only until I learn the camera, then I will try RAW + Jpeg
Please note any errors so I can fix them. Nigel, skip item 15 please.
Changes from Default
- Quality:Extra Fine (Jpeg only) (much less compression, allows more aggressive cropping). RAW + Jpeg defaults to Jpeg Fine Compression. After testing XF, I will try RAW + Jpeg Fine
- Panorama Direction:UP: (to take ‘Tall’ Pano’s), a nicely proportioned Wide shot: set direction up, turn camera vertically, and sweep right. Top dial must be in Pano to change Pano size and direction in the menu.
- Clear Image Zoom:ON. Jpeg only. (see item 15)
- AF Illuminator:Off (avoid blinding people like I did to Cassandra Wilson on stage).
- Movie File Format:MP4. David Pogue, Gary Friedman and I agree, AVCHD not much better, not worth the larger files, or need to open with specific software. Fixed 35mm movie?
- SteadyShot:ON. RX1r has no IS for Stills, it is for Movies only. Turn off if using Tripod.
- Auto Review:5 secs, important while learning. Gives time to press Mag button to see results (AEL button is Mag in playback). Half press shutter button any time: back to live view.
- Display Button (monitor):All, None, Level. IF have viewfinder, check box: For viewfinder.
- Display Button (finder):All, None, Level. (see items 29 and 30: Fn button and Quick Navi)
- Peaking Level:High. I use low on my rx100’s, great while magnified, but I needed High for RX1r to see peaking well, not sure why.
- Peaking Color:Yellow. (my preference, all my Sony’s)
- MF Assist:On. RX1r initial magnification is 5.9X (smaller than rx100 start of 8.6x). rx100’s MF mag can toggle between 8.6x and 17.2x by pressing the rear center button while magnified. RX1r, somewhere, not figured out yet, you can mag to 11.7x, (option for MF assist, or, 11.7x just for playback? )
- Focus Mag Time:No limit. (return to framing view anytime, by shutter button half press).
- C Button:AF/MF Control Hold. (intuitive location next to shutter button). AF/MF Control Hold is needed to use BBF back button focus method. (See BBF item 28)
- AEL button:Smart Telecon/Zoom. Jpeg Only. ‘effortless, occasional, good enough’ .
- Smart Zoom(optical sensor crop, no upscaling) (only available at medium or small image sizes. Works in steps: 24mp = 35mm optical; 10mp = 52mm; 5mp = 80mm.
- CIZ, clear image zoom, Jpeg Only. Double Heresy, Nigel might confiscate my RX1r.
Press AEL button (nice mag symbol next to the button to remind me). AEL button is assigned to Smart Telcon/Zoom. A zoom scale shows up on lcd, use rockers to zoom.
You see a linear scale: optical, then SZ step(s), then CIZ progressive zoom.
- 24mp: no SZ; CIZ to 70mm
- 10mp:SZ step to 52mm; then CIZ progressive zoom to 105mm;
- 5mp: SZ two steps: 52mm; then 80mm; then CIZ progressive zoom to 157mm.
- Left Rocker:AEL Toggle. If you use AEL, and you re-assign the AEL button, this is an intuitive location: When AEL is engaged, an * shows up, on the bottom info line of the lcd, at the right end. So, your * and AEL button are adjacent. Works for me. Note: left rocker default of drive mode is in both the Fn button, and Quick Navi menus for quick change, nothing lost.
- Right Rocker:AF/MF Toggle. Works no matter what position the damnable dinky round front focus wheel is in. God I hate that thing. Should be a lever, properly positioned. Note: right rocker default of Flash mode is also in Fn and Quick Navi menus, nothing lost.
- Down Rocker:Image Size. Not in Fn menu, or Quick Navi. I change to get SZ or more CIZ. Mostly for my rx100’s. I may not use it much here, but, I want to see CIZ on this sensor.
- Smart Telecon/Zoom:Zoom (that activates CIZ). Default Smart Telecon setting blocks CIZ, and keeps ONLY SZ 52mm at 10mp; 80mm @ 5mp.
- Movie Button:Movie Mode Only (dead unless top dial is in Movie Mode). Shame we cannot use it for something else. I never accidentally hit movie button, except when it ruins ___
- Picture Effect
Playback Menu, pg 2).
- Menu Start
revious, stays where you had it last. Change something, shoot, change it back. - Mode Dial Guide:Off
- LCD Brightness:Sunny Weather. Auto doesn’t work well on my rx100s, or RX1r.
- Viewfinder Brightness:Manual, +1. Adjust manually while looking thru Viewfinder. Adjust viewfinder diopter to see the text on the EVf, not something beyond.
- Power Saving Time:5 min. Turn off by switch any time. Needed while learning camera, and, while strolling around shooting this and that. Don’t want it turning off just when needed. LCD still goes dark by itself to save power, tap shutter button to re-awaken.
- Audio Signals:Off.
- BBF: (Back Button Focus)(disables/separates focus from Shutter Button)
BBF Setup (works similarly if you use different button assignments)
- Front focus dial: MF.
- C Button: AF/MF Control Hold (item 14).
- Right Rocker: AF/MF Toggle (item 17)(not needed for BBF). Instant AF when front focus dial is in MF, instant back to MF. OR, instant MF when front focus dial is in AF. Instant back to AF.
- Front focus dial MF
- Turn on Camera. Use MF normally, shoot,
- Turn on Camera, Press C button. Camera automatically engages AF.
- Shoot immediately using AF,
- refine Manual Focus, Shoot.
- Focus Distance is Held, for subsequent shots. If you or subject moves a bit, minimal turn is needed to refine MF focus. If subject moves a lot, press C button again, AF finds subject again, shoot or refine MF focus, shoot.
- Fn Button:Unlike rx100’s, RX1r Fn Button items are NOT assignable. Unforgivable. Press Fn button, use rockers to item, center button to choose/set an option.
- Quick Navi:A special screen, only available if the EVF is installed. Using it is a two step process. Step One: Press Disp top rocker, until Quick Navi screen appears. It is not active yet. Step two: Press Fn button. Now, it becomes active, can change settings like Fn button. It has other info, available because it is too much info to see via EVF.
- Flash:Leave ON (fill) in menu, leave flash down, it cannot fire. Pop it up, ready to fire. It retains the +/- flash comp strength you last used. I use it cut back, and adjust shot to shot readily.
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rx100 m3,4,5 Setup Suggestions
May 19, 2017
28
I have rx100m3, much also pertains to m4,5, but their new features are not included. Any corrections, clarifications, additions are appreciated, I will revise this, and add the m1,2 guide as an addendum.
rx100m3 (4,5) Setup Suggestions
Preface
Don’t want to read and understand the manual and/or very huge menu:
This is specific to m3, much is relevant for m4,5 but new features not here.
My 14 page rx100m1 super condensed manual and learning guide will eventually be included as an addendum, some info is good for any rx100, and will not be repeated here, so view it’s index to see if anything might interest you.
m3,4,5 are different, due to very good IS, and steadier EVF arms-in shooting position. They also do not default to 1/30 as much. With that combo, I am able to shoot 1/30, and if I concentrate, I can shoot 1/20, handheld blur free stills, that is a huge difference. Even arms out lcd, due to IS, I can successfully use slower shutter speeds. The m1, manual’s emphasis on S mode is less relevant, so Gold Auto, Green Auto, P, and A mode can be used more successfully.
Auto ISO in M, is possible in m3,4,5; not available in m1,2.
JPEG. I work hard to get the best setup and master the midget marvel to get the best Jpegs, hoping to do none or very little Post Processing. There are very good Jpeg Only features. I encourage RAW shooters to at least try them, see actual results. Usually RAW shooters have more advanced PP skills, so keep in mind, you can apply those skills to Jpeg Only images.
Extra Batteries: I highly recommend an external charger and a few extra batteries. You will need them when learning the menu and full setup. Ebay inexpensive ones work just fine.
Reset/Initialize: I recommend a full reset/initialize before setup, and, I occasionally reset which eliminates any unwanted/inadvertant settings, reminds me of what and why, and, reminds me of options I may now try.
Fn Menu is the key to successful use of these rx100s. I used to hate the huge menu, however, after using my Oly menu, with settings buried in odd places, in sub-menus I cannot remember exist or where they exist, I came to appreciate Sony’s menu. Once learned, it has a single line for nearly everything.
Dust on Sensor: These are dust magnets, and segmented barrel can suck dust inside. Early rx100m1’s, I think especially MIJ (made in japan) units got dust on sensor, me: 3 times, 2 fixed on warranty, current spots, only show at f8 and beyond. I think something was changed when they moved production to China (MIC). Caution is recommended, a dust sock in pockets, keep it in a case even when not in use.
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Initialize, change defaults, re-assign rockers and buttons, master the beast.
After nearly 5 years, this is my setup, follow/modify these, do it your way, make it yours.
EVF: Raise it, and adjust the diopter lever on it’s top, adjust for screen text, not image.
Top Mode Dial in P to Start.
- Initialize
- Toolcase, pg 6,setting reset, initialize, ok, ok, set area/date/time, daylight savings, set time, date format, finally press enter. Play memories page, ok.
- Power Save Start Time.
- Toolcase, pg 2, change to 30 minutes while learning/setup, then I use 5 minutes, because: I stroll around, lens out, palmed lens facing down, up to shoot. I do not want it inadvertently turning off just when I get a fleeting opportunity. I think frequent lens in/out uses more power when shooting this way, and you can always turn it off by button or putting EVF down.
- Camera, pg 1.
- Quality: change to x.fine, Extra Fine. Same # of pixels, but MUCH LESS compression, like RAW, more info about those pixels. Beneficial for large crops and PP I suspect/believe. Cannot hurt.
- Movie file format. You choose. I use mp4, good enough for my very limited use. Poor live audio quality using built-in omni-directional frequency limited mics is not acceptable, especially live music. Sound is a big part of home theater experience so I use my old Sony Handy Cam, much more zoom, better sound. New dedicated video cameras are smaller yet.
- NOTE: Flash Comp. cannot be changed in either Gold or Green Auto. This is key to successful use of flash. I typically use flash cut back in strength, and, I put in in my Fn button menu, and change flash strength shot to shot. Always let flash fully charge, even using it cut back, to get consistent output.
- Camera pg 2
- Movie record setting: you choose.
- Red Eye Reduction: Off. Note, for correct eye color, you may want it on, after pre-flash, red leaves eyes, the camera will capture true eye colors. If you do red eye reduction in post, the software guesses, red eye is gone, eye color?
- Camera pg 3, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.
- Camera pg 4, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.
NOTE: Focus Magnified unavailable, because in AF mode, only available when using MF manual focus. More about MF later.
- Camera pg 5,No changes. Learn about them later.
- Camera pg 6, no changes
NOTE: Movie only if top dial is moved to Movie.
- Camera pg 7 Audio and Memory.
- See audio options so you know about them if you shoot movies.
- Memory Recallis greyed out, until you setup one or more of the 3 available custom memories: 1,2,3. Subsequently Memory Recall is only available when you move the top dial to MR.
- Memory. Tricky, but very handy after setup.
Second: Press Center Button (enter). Now memory 1 is saved. Move Top Dial to MR. Press center button, top line is in 1, and shows your settings.
NOTE. To set up memory 2 or 3, put top dial in any PASM, make the changes, this time for a different type of shot you do, like Sports (top dial in S). Back to pg 7, now, right rocker till top line shows 2. Now press center button, which saves those changes. Same for register 3. Now, top dial in MR, press menu: rocker over to 1,2,3 Bingo, ready for 1. Landscape; 2. Sports; 3 ____?
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- Gear page 1
- Zebra, default OFF. On to have it as an aid to see any areas of blown highlights.
- Focus Magnification Time: Change to No Limit. When in Manual Focus, when you turn the front ring, Focus Magnification automatically happens, you can see focus, and focus peaking easily. Anytime you want to get back to normal framing view, simply half press the shutter button. It doesn’t move the lens like AF would, just jumps to framing view. Your set focus distance is held.
- Auto Review, how long an image shows after it is recorded. I change it according to circumstances. 1. Confirm Framing. 2. Zoom to check focus, to check if anyone had their eyes closed, blurred by movement, etc. 3. Off if using MF, Off if trusting AF to find vertical edges to be consistently successful. You may want 5 sec when camera is new, then back to 2 sec default.
- Gear pg 2
- Display Button. You pick any or all of the 6 pages of information you want shown on the lcd while shooting. Then, when you press the top rear rocker (DISP), it toggles thru the pages you chose. Default is 4 pages. You simply chec or uncheck the boxes. I use all, none, uncheck Histogram (forgive me Will), and check Level. I leave for viewfinder, so those choices are for both lcd and EVF. Toggle down to enter to save your choices.
- Peaking Level, change to Low which turns it on. Try other strengths later.
- Peaking Color, I change to Yellow
Get in MF, turn front ring, instant magnification 8.6x (option to toggle to 17.1x), Peaking shows on the edges of things in focus. CDAF Contrast Detect focus system finds vertical edges. Turn till the peaking shows on your subject, half press the shutter button, back to framing view, confirm/adjust your framing, shoot.
NOTE: Peaking is only to be used while magnified, it is a mess when in framing view, ignore it, just verify framing.
NOTE: To get back to Magnified from framing, just ‘touch’ the front ring, enough to magnify, but not enough to move the lens much. Confirm or refine focus, shoot.
NOTE: Shooting soft round objects, flowers, bees, you may need to find peaking on a nearby object the same distance away as your soft subject.
- Pre-AF, default is ON. I leave it on.
- Gear pg 3.
- Zoom Setting.Optical ON is default. I turn CIZ ON, only zoom into it when I want, you can always simply stop at optical. You can watch the lcd or evf, or, when you stop hearing lens motor noise, you have entered extended zoom.
- No other changes
- Gear pg 4, Oh Baby, here we make the beast obey!
- Function Menu Set. THE KEY to using these miniature marvels.
NOTE: IF, like me, you have a couple of RX’s, it is nice to have things setup consistently. However: rx100m1,2 give you 7 items in one horizontal line. Rx100m3,4,5 give you 12 items, two horizontal lines of six. RX1r gives you two vertical rows, 13 items. Ashamedly, RX1r items are not assignable.
NOTE: What you put here influences the choices you will later have to re-assign the external rockers and buttons, important.
My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup
Upper 1-6: These are what I change ‘shot to shot’.
- Drive Mode (frees up left rocker);
- Flash Mode (frees up right rocker);
- Flash Comp. (adjacent to Flash Mode);
- Focus Mode;
- Focus Area (adjacent to Focus Mode);
- Metering Mode (metering area size, adjacent to focus area size).
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My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup continued
Lower 1-6: These are options I keep here, out of the big menu.
- Image Size 20,10, 5 mp: (EOZ available at 10mp and 5mp)
- Image Quality (me: x.fine Jpeg, change to RAW + Jpeg, or RAW)
- DRO/Auto HDR (Jpeg only)
- White Balance Typically Auto AWB, but, fluorescent? mixed with incandescent? mixed with daylight? other presets or K specific Kelvin Temperature. Seems hard, but, if I can do it, so can you.
- Creative Style. I use it to quickly get to B&W, to visualize in B&W while composing and adjusting exposure, shoot. Back to STD for a matching Color shot. This is also where you can change the defaults for Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness for any pre-set style, std, vivid, etc.
- Picture Effect. I like HC B&W (high contrast), and I like Watercolor. I find, the more color in the scene, the better the Watercolor effect will look.
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- Gear. pg 4. Custom Key Settings
- Control Ring, default Standard
- C button: Aspect Ratio: I use full sensor 3:2, I like to shoot 1:1 occasionally, many use 16:9 for their monitors and TVs; now one button, no menu of any kind.
- Center Button: Center Lock-On AF (tracking focus renamed), OR Eye AF. IOW, the ‘other’ focus mode you use.
Or, EYE Focus. I should try it. Perhaps someone can write something to insert here.
- Left Rocker: AEL Toggle (Auto Exposure Lock). It will use the metering area size you have already set.
Option: one line down is 2nd AEL method. AEL Toggle, preceded by a box with a spot. Perhaps someone can explain this.
- Right Rocker: AF/MF Ctrl Toggle. This is the secret of using MF for these.
- Zoom Function on Ring: Standard (progressive 24-70) or Zoom to pre-set steps: 24, 28, 35, 50, 70. Note, this works in both Auto’s, not in PASM.
- Movie Button. I change to Movie Mode Only, so if top dial is not in Movie, if I hit the stupid thing, it doesn’t start a movie. IF you like to start a movie anytime in any mode, leave it in default: Always.
- Wheel Lock: default Unlock. What does Lock do???
- WiFi Section. You figure it out. Note: In Play mode, pick an image, press the Fn Button, takes you directly to ‘Send to Smartphone’.
- Applications Section: You figure it out.
- Play Section: I never use it
- Toolkit Section: we started here to Initialize.
- Page 1, monitor brightness. Change to Sunny Weather. Auto does not work. Makes a big difference outdoors in glare. Manual brightness is very handy to darken the lcd for non-disruptive use in public places. I use -2, you can see enough to frame, and, even if holding tilted lcd up over peoples heads, you can still see to frame, and in MF, you can still see focus magnification and peaking, enough to select the front or third row, wherever Ben, Cooper, Ava, or Daria are, (soon Adalynn) or the singer at a mic, depending on if you have far or near seats of course.
- Pg 1, Audio Signals: I change to OFF, not to be disruptive.
- Pg 2, Display Quality: change to High.
- Pwr Save Start Time. Now that you have learned the menu, change to 5 minutes.
Fn Button is the KEY to using any RX Camera, rx100m1,2,3; RX1,RX1r; RX10 (IMO!)
Main Menu is too large to navigate to find and change anything
Fn Button Menu is Small and Fast.
I resisted setting Fn menu up, but, you need it, even in Auto, to change a few things or even just one thing frequently.
Fn is a SHORT PRE-SELECTED MENU, you pick what you want (m1: 7 items; m3/RX10: 12)
Using Fn Button minimizes the need to setup (and remember) any of the 3 MR memories.
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1st. m1: Change ‘Menu Start’ from Top to Previous.
Menu now goes directly to where you were when you got out of it. Good when learning or changing anything. 'Top', default, is the beginning of the huge menu, you lose where you were last. m3, 'Previous' is the default
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2nd: select your Fn Button Items
m1: menu, gear, page 2, Function Button. Press it, you get a page with 7 vertical lines,
Press the Function 1 button: a vertical list of optional settings, use the top and bottom rockers to scroll the list, pick one, press the center button, it becomes the first item in your Fn menu.
Pick the other 6 items you want, ( or other 11 items with m3 and RX10).
Now, press Fn button. Presto, ONLY your 7 or 12 items are there, no confusion or searching is necessary. Simply rock left or right, to the item you want to change, change it, shoot.
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My m1 7 item Fn Button Menu, and why
- Image Size.
- I drop down to 10mp often, to get EOZ extended optical zoom, and to get 'More' CIZ
- m3, I drop down to 10mp to get SZ, Smart Zoom (extended optical zoom, confusingly renamed by Sony), extends 70mm limit to SZ 98mm, close to 100mm for Portraits. (This is a trial use, results not yet compared)
- 5mp Small File Sizes: for eBay photos, send to my and other’s cell phone, send as email.
- Drive Mode.(even though it is the rear left rocker default, which is instant)
- I change Drive Mode frequently, and I am used to going to the Fn Button Menu for changes
- Left rocker drive mode has sub-menus you need to enter, options you need to remember even exist. Drive Mode in Fn menu gives a separate icon for each variation, no sub menus.
- AEL.AEL does not exist unlessyou change the camera’s default, and can only be assigned to the rear center button or left or rear rockers. (Absurd, to have to lose something, to get AEL) I have already moved Drive Mode to Fn menu, so I use the left rocker.
To get AEL: menu, gear, page 2, 5 line down: Func. of Left Button. Change it to AEL Toggle. Now, when you press the left rocker, AEL is engaged, current exposure is locked, shoot away. Press left rocker again, AEL off.
- Focus Mode(focus method).
- AutoFocus Area Size(size of the area ‘looked at’ by the AF system)
- Metering Area Size(size of the area ‘looked at’ for Exposure, always centered).
- Flash Mode (on/off primarily, advanced flash types are there also)
- Flash Comp(compensation, flash strength). In addition to flexing and bouncing the flash, this is THE KEY to successfully use the internal flash. Surprisingly, rx flash is strong, you often need to cut it’s strength, then it can give you shots otherwise unachievable due to too long handheld shutter speeds in low light. Or, you can boost it on rare occasions. Note: rx flash needs time to fully recharge between shots to be consistent. It will fire again soon, but, if you have not waited for a full charge, it will not be consistent with the prior strength, that you chose.
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- AF/MF Toggle
reassign the rear right rocker to AF/MF Toggle. (note: default flash control is lost, see flash solution below)
menu, gear, page 4, custom key settings, Right Button: set to AF/MF Ctrl Toggle.
At start up, you are in AF, with your focus area size box in gray on the lcd screen. Press the right rocker, presto, goes to MF mode, focus box changes to a gray circle. Press rocker again, back to AF.
- Manual Focus Aids setup
menu, gear page 1,
MF Assist: ON
Focus Magnif Time: No Limit (stays magnified until you half press shutter button)
gear page 2
Peaking Level: Low
Peaking Color: Yellow
- In Use
Focus Peaking is shown when you enter MF. It is meant to be used only when magnified, after you turn the front ring. Focus peaking finds and highlights the edges of objects that are in focus. You turn the ring until the peaking is shown on the edges of your subject, then, half press, back to normal framing view, ignore the focus peaking, check your framing, finish the shot.
Use MF at any focal length, including macro which is simply shooting wide and moving close to within 2" of subject.
Sony rx100's have no separate macro lens position, they simply focus as close as 2". As mentioned, scene mode Macro is simply presets to work well when that close.
If you zoom, the aperture gets progressively smaller, and minimum focus distance gets longer, at full zoom you cannot be any closer than 10".
So, depth of focus will vary, shallowest when wide and close, progressively more depth of focus as you zoom and move back as needed for that focal length's minimum focus distance. In A mode, you can force even smaller apertures if desired.
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Focus Magnification has two powers, uses rear center button to toggle from default magnification, (8.6X on rx100m3) to double the magnification to 17.2x when center button pressed, back to 8.6x when pressed again, back to normal framing view when shutter button is half pressed. Models magnification factors vary. My RX1r is 5.9x and toggles to 11.7x
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Flash Solution.
the rx100m1 and m2, if flash is 'on', they automatically pop up and fire, so you need to have flash control somewhere, either the default rear right rocker, or put into your Fn button menu as I do. Many never use flash, so nothing lost using right rocker for something else.
happily, m3,4,5 the flash needs to be physically released. So, you can simply leave the flash set to ON, force fill flash, all the time, and simply leave the flash down, it cannot/won't fire. That is why you can easily reassign the right rocker to anything you want.
Flash Compensation
Most people's problems with flash is due to too much flash. I put flash compensation/strength in my Fn button menu. Pop up the flash (it is already on in settings), shoot with flash. Change flash strength shot to shot, typically cutting flash strength. Note: even when using flash cut back, you need to let the flash fully re-charge in camera between shots, otherwise, if not fully charged, it will fire but the strength will not be consistent shot to shot.
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RX10/rx100m3: Bracketing: Exposure, White Balance, DRO, HDR
Jun 3, 2014
1
page references from RX10 476 page manual, different page numbers in manual variations
rx100m3, same Bionz X processor, so, I presume it will do these the same way.
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last shot taken (+___?) in a bracket series is the one shown when using Auto Review, not 0.0 ev.
216 BRACKETING DRIVE MODES (other bracketing is available via menu settings)
BKT C continuous images each with different degrees of brightness. (hold shutter button down)
BKT S Single Bracket: u pick range, u pick 3 or 5 shots, (press shutter for each successive shot)
BRK WB White Balance: three images: different degrees of brightness according to the selected settings for white balance, color temperature and color filter.
DRO Bracket: three images, each a different degree of D-Range Optimization.
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228 Bracket Order (default 0, -, +), or, (u change it to: -, 0, +)
sets the shooting order for exposure bracketing and white balance bracketing.
222, BRK C, (exposure bracketing, continuous, hold shutter button down)
Bracket Exposure from default 0 ev, or, pre-adjust exposure + or -, then bracket from that setting.
u pick range: +/- .03 up to +/- 3.0 ev; u pick 3 or 5 shots; (default: 3 shots +/- .03 ev)
Manual Drive Mode Exposure Bracketing: two modes depending on Auto ISO or Specific ISO
Manual, Auto ISO: variations are ISO changes
Manual, Specific ISO: variations are shutter speed.
224, BRK S, (same as BRK C, EXCEPT, you choose when to take each shot in the sequence)
u pick range, u pick 3 or 5 shots, then, u press shutter for each sequential shot when desired.
226, BRK WB (3 White Balance variations) u pick range: default Lo, or Hi.
according to the selected settings of white balance, color temperature and color filter.
227, BRK DRO (dynamic range optimization) (3 various DRO shots; 2 ranges: Lo or Hi)
DRO: Lo (default): a series of 3 images with small changes in the D-Range Optimizer value.
DRO: Hi: a series of 3 images with large changes in the D-Range Optimizer value.
232 DRO (dynamic range optimization) (one in-camera created shot)(see BRK DRO for 3 variations)
Creates one dynamic range optimized shot , select the range, Auto, or L1 weak to L5 strong.
"By dividing the image into small areas, the camera analyzes the contrast of light and shadow between the subject and the background, and creates an image with the optimal brightness and gradation".
Note: "the image may be noisy. Select the proper level by checking the recorded image, especially when you enhance the effect".
DRO option is OFF for: Panorama, Multi Frame Noise Reduction, Picture Effect, Many Scenes
234, Auto HDR (high/wide dynamic range) (two shots: normal and in-camera HDR alternate, Jpeg only)
HDR Auto: camera automatically selects the amount of dynamic range
HDR, u set differential range: from weak 1 (ev), to high 6 (ev).
Note: DRO is 'optimized', HDR is intentionally 'wide'
clarifications? errors?
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IN-CAMERA HDR
After watching him work, and seeing the great exposure results Bill gets with his manual blending of bracketed shots, I think, learning HDR technique may be more advised than doing the best RAW can do to single shots. Both HDR and RAW combined has to be awesome. RAW bracketing is always out of camera, therefore tripod is required, that's out for me.
rx100m1 lousy IS was too shakey handheld for me, but, with my m3, I am trying and liking the in-camera HDR feature (jpeg only), Handheld, getting blur free shots with it. Often, better exposures, mid-tones, improved skies, much less need to mess with shadows and highlights afterwards. The skies look like you are using a polarizing filter.
2 Shots. Sony In-Camera HDR gives you the original shot, as per your settings, and a 2nd alternate HDR,by taking over and under exposed shots and blending them for you. Sometimes, I miss the strength of my beloved shadows, then I go back to my single exposed shot, but the HDR shows me what other parts of the shot can be.
To try Jpeg In-Camera HDR:
m3: menu, camera, pg 4, DRO/Auto HDR, press center button; down rocker to HDR Auto; side rocker to select the bracketing range you want: options: +/- 1.0 ev ,2,3,4,5, +/- 6.0 ev. Remember to hold the camera steady, it will take three shots.
C button for HDR.
I leave my menu default as DRO Auto. That lets you select any shooting mode, single, continuous, timer, etc. via the Fn button. Then, I program my C button to be DRO/Auto HDR function. menu, gear, custom key settings; C button, DRO/Auto HDR.
Now, while shooting, want forced HDR: press C button, pick an exposure range, shoot. Like flash compensation, you can change HDR bracketing strength shot to shot. Still learning it.
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RX100 - watercolor effect EXPLAINED
In reply to kimmie92592 • Aug 7, 2016
1
kimmie92592 wrote:
elliottnewcomb wrote:
Glad this popped back to the top. Many more nice shots from you.
I figured it out, for dummies like me, step by step:
Camera, press play button, cycle thru until you
- get to a pic you want to try it on.
- press menu while still in play
- in menu, using rockers, over to playback, page 2, picture effect
- press center button, two choices, a. watercolor, b. illustration
- use rocker up or down, press center button to select a or b
- after you press the center button, it returns to the play view on the lcd, and the new version of the picture, either watercolor or illustration, is created and shown.
- press menu button, it asks: save: OK? Cancel? use rocker, press center button.
- it goes back to lcd play view, new modified pic is shown. While it is shown, if you want to add the effect again, press menu, do it again.
btw, you can move a memory stick from another rx100. I put one from my rx100m3 into my rx100m1, then I can make an alternate watercolor or illustration of any shot on that stick.
I tried shooting RX1r at 10mp image size, then moving it into rx100m1. It will play the image, but will not make an alternate watercolor. Other way, rx100m3 to RX1r shows but will not make an alternate.
Just a test, not a prize image, but from my RX1r, converted in-camera alternate Watercolor. This was one huge Purple Rhody (or Azalea?), on the way up to Bill's house.
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"1st let me clarify the 3 different types of Zooms: OZ, SZ, CIZ.
OZ = optical zoom.
CIZ and SZ are technically different 'extended zooms', JPEGS only. They are progressive, they begin at the end of optical: after the lens stops physically moving (listen/watch zoom scale), they are digital trickery.
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CIZ Clear Image Zoom (not shown here) is two stages: in-camera sensor crop, combined with in-camera up-scaling, back to the original Image size being used. At 20mp you get up to double the reach: m6 CIZ 20mp gives 201-400mm (max 2x at 20mp). At smaller image sizes, 10mp or 5mp, you get even more CIZ.
CIZ is OPTIONALLY ENGAGED, by you in the menu. CIZ has twice the reach of SZ
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SZ Smart Zoom, shown here, is an optical sensor crop, in camera, with no other in-camera processing, no up-scaling like CIZ does.
SZ is AUTOMATICALLY ENGAGED when you use 10mp or 5mp.
SZ is available on all prior rx100's, and RX10's. Early models called it EOZ extended optical zoom, a better name IMO.
Smart Zoom is only available when you drop down in image size, none at 20mp; up to 1.4x using 10mp; up to 2.0x using 5mp.
new rx100m6 therefore gets SZ 201-280mm using 10mp; SZ 201-400mm using 5mp.
Other models: m1 ending 100mm gets 101-140 using 10mp; or 101-200mm using 5mp
m3,4,5 optical end 70mm get 71-128; 71-140mm
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Now the answer about SZ/Smart Telecon:
You can get Smart Zoom in two optional methods.
method 1. Image Size: also allows CIZ, (how I am using it now).
method 2. Smart Telecon. You get Smart Zoom only, (CIZ is blocked out).
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method 1. SZ with option to use CIZ also. (you must change the Jpeg Image Size yourself)
- you engage CIZ. menu, zoom options, turn clear image zoom on. At 20mp, no SZ exists, so you go from end of OZ 200mm directly into CIZ 201-400mm.
- change Image Size to 10mp (several methods). Now SZ 1.4x is automatically engaged, and CIZ is now double that: 2.8x. SZ occurs progressively, between end of optical and beginning of CIZ. OZ to 200mm; SZ 201 to 280mm; CIZ 281-560mm.
- change image size to 5mp (several methods). Now SZ (still automatically engaged) becomes 2.0x, and CIZ doubles that to 4.0x. OZ to 200mm; SZ to 201-400mm; CIZ 401-800mm
- you need to remember to change image size back to 20mp.
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method 2. SZ ONLY. Assign Smart Telecon to a Custom Key (button or rocker). (C button perhaps) It IS A TOGGLE.
i.e. normally shooting 20mp:
1st press 1.4x (camera changes to 10mp image size for you)
2nd press 2.0x (camera changes to 5mp image size for you)
3rd press, back to OZ (camera changes to 20mp image size for you)
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In all cases, zoom scales and icons appear on the LCD and EVF. In all cases, because they are progressive, you can leave them on and not use them, or, keep zooming when desired.
Using these, you need to have the habit of checking your settings each time you pick your camera up to use it.
Image Size? AF mode? AF area? Metering Area?; Exposure compensation? ....
I still need to get better at that.
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Oh Yeah, Jpeg Compression is independent of OZ, SZ, CIZ, so if using Jpeg Extra Fine, everything will be extra fine, including RAW + Jpeg.
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Focus, Metering, are easier to see when zoomed in with SZ or CIZ, and easier to see something happen, waiting to take the final shutter press. If you can see it better, the AF and Exposure systems can see it better.
Wide Area for both focus and metering is automatically engaged for both SZ and CIZ. That is another way to tell when you have left optical (using spot or center area) when the focus bracket changes to full screen. Zoom back out, bingo, focus box changes back to what you were using, and where you had it.
Manual Focus magnifies the area even further for you to see, time the shot as well as refine focus."
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rx100m6 setup suggestions
- Charge your batteries, I'm not kidding, get an ebay kit, wall charger with 2 batteries
2. Initialize, Setup Tab, pg 7, full factory reset, to undo any changes you might have guessed at
3. Write your changes down, you may reset in the future, easy to get it back as 'yours'
4. top wheel in P mode (out of box default)
CAMERA 1 TAB
page 1
a. Jpeg Quality, extra fine (26% less compression than fine)
b. Panorama Direction UP. (you must turn top wheel to Pano mode to activate Pano settings)
I don't use full wide panos often, so I use it for wider shots than 24mm like this:
UP, then, I turn camera vertically and sweep sideways, not full pano, but wider than 24mm
For full pano, change back to sideways, stnd or wide
page 3
a. Drive Mode, continuous, low speed (3 fps)(default is 24 fps, incredible, I will try 24fps later).
I use low speed to avoid shutter press shake, only hold shutter button a short time, say 3 shots, 1st may have blur, 2nd, third maybe not. especially slow shutter speeds hand held. you can take single shots in continuous, just press and release quickly
rocker down from single to continuous, right rocker, high, mid, LOW
b. Bracket Settings, self timer during bracketing, 2sec, again to avoid shutter press shake.
page 4
a. Focus MODE, AF-S. AF-A is new, single and continuous, camera in charge, I will try it later
b. Focus AREA, Center, you in control, to start, will use spot later
c. Set face priority in AF. OFF for now, don't want camera deciding that until familiar with cam
page 5
a. Phase Detect Area, ON. PDCD is a big part of it's super AF system, u see box where it works
page 6
a. Metering Mode (AREA SIZE), Center, use spot later
b. Spot Metering Point Center, Focus Point Link. Move focus spot, metering spot moves with it
page 7
a. AEL with Shutter, ON. only focus set at half press, exposure taken when shutter fires. I set focus distance at half press, and reframe often, After reframing, lighting is different, exposure not set earlier at a different location. Also, waiting for something, a cloud could move, a big truck could block prior light, a branch moves in a breeze, ..
page 8
a. Red Eye Reduction, ON. To get true eye colors. Pre-flash causes red eye, it instantly dissapates, second, real flash captures real eye colors. Simply tell subjects to hold position/smile a bit longer. Post software RER guesses.
Flash Notes: Leave Flash on Fill Flash. Normally not popped up, doesn't fire. Want flash, simply move the flash release, no need to find and turn it on. I put flash comp in Fn menu, and reduce/raise flash strength shot to shot. Full strength is why people don't like or use flash, proper level gives success when needed. This m6, with darker lens, f2.8 close, perhaps zoomed a bit, will need flash more often than m1,2,3,4,5. Always let flash fully charge, even using it cut back, so it is consistent shot to shot, and your adjustments will be based on prior accurate level. Flash will fire before full charge, but strength will be random, any adjustment from that will also be random.
page 9
a. DRO/Auto HDR, DRO OFF. My m3 trials, DRO works but I don't like what it does, changes textures, shadows, and effective color. You might like it. I like HDR, I shoot handheld, so I don't want auto, I turn it on when enough light to handhold decent shutter speed. You get original based on you settings, and a second HDR shot. I put DRO/HDR in Fn menu
b. Initial Focus Magnification, 5.3X
Magnification Note: When magnified, initially it is 5.3X. Press center button, it toggles to 10.7X, press again, toggles back to 5.3X You can move a box to change what area gets magnified.
page 11
a. Peaking Setting
1. Peaking Display ON
2. Peaking Level, Low
3. Peaking Color, Yellow
Peaking Notes: Peaking is used in Manual Focus, or DMF (direct Manual Focus) while magnified. Turn front ring,magnification occurs, peaking shows on edges of items in focus, in the color chosen, primarily vertical edges. Turn front ring to refine focus on your subject. You can stay magnified, wait for the birds perch, shoot, or, half press shutter, jumps back to framing view. Ignore peaking, simply confirm your framing, shoot when ready. Peaking Low shows less peaking at magnified and normal framing view. If you want, once focus distance is locked, you can hold the camera still front to back, move your head/eye alongside the camera, look at the subject directly, over or around the camera, fire when ready.
page 12
Self Portrait Timer, leave on, it is automatically engaged as you flip the LCD up almost 180 degrees. You will see the self timer icon, you press shutter button, you have 3 secs to pose.
CAMERA 2 Tab
pages 1-4 are about Movies, I know nothing about movies
page 5
a. Release without Card. Disable. Default Enable: if you don't notice 'no card' warning, (I have) you think you are taking photos, shutter fires, adjustments shown in lcd, seems to write to card.
page 6
a. Zoom Speed, FAST. Normal for movies, stopping at precise focal lengths, (can use steps)
page 7
a. DISP Button (rear up rocker). Up rocker toggles thru only the boxes you check.
you can check different boxes for LCD (monitor) and EVF (finder)
1. Monitor: uncheck for viewfinder; check monitor off (right rocker, enter to get those changes).
2. Finder: uncheck histogram (unless you use it); (right rocker, enter).
page 8
a. Auto Review, 2 sec, you can zoom in to confirm focus as soon as the Auto Review shows.
page 9 Custom Operation 1
a. C Button, Smart Telecon pg 14 of 20 (in-camera crop, no upscale) This is an instant toggle, Optical 200mm max; Smart Zoom 1.4x 280mm max; Smart Zoom 2.0x 400mm max, back to optical 200mm max. Icon shows on LCD. Smart Zoom used this way: no need to change Image Size to 10mp or 5 mp. Note: Default ISO is in my Fn menu.
C button also moves the spot focus box back to center when the box is in active (white).
b. Left Button (rocker), AEL Toggle pg 4 of 9 (default drive mode is in my Fn menu)
AEL Note: AEL is only available by custom assignment. When in use, an asterisk appears in the info line at the bottom of the lcd, at the right end. AEL rocker is adjacent to that asteris, intuitive for me.
c. Right Button (rocker), AF/MF Ctrl Toggle line 3 of 19. rx100's do not have focus levers or dials, so this is instant change from AF to MF, toggle back to AF. You can keep your eye on the subject, using LCD or EVF, keep finger on the shutter button, instantly change to MF, refine focus, shoot. Press right rocker again, back to AF
d, Fn Menu Set. your 12 items, in your adjacencies. Settings you might change shot to shot. Items here do not need to be found in the crazy huge menu. One Fn button press, 12 icons, rocker to one, change it. Chech when u turn the camera on, to verify how you left those settings.
My Fn button menu (all instant access to changes)
1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker for AEL
2. Face Detect (in AF) (option if I want it, normally not)
3. Flash Comp (change flash strength shot to shot)
4. Focus Mode (method), AF-S my default, change to any choice instantly
5. Focus Area (size). change center to spot, zone, ... quick and easy.
6. Meter Area (size). often changed with Focus area size.
note adjacency od 4,5,6
7. Image Size (jpeg 20, 10, 5mp)(smart zoom automatically available at 10mp and 5mp)
more Clear Image Zoom is available at 10mp and even more at 5MP.
8. Aspect Ratio
9. DRO/HDR (dynamic range optimizer and or High Dynamic Range (stills)
10. ISO
11. WB White Balance. AWB is excellent outdoors, Indoors generally good, unless mixed light sources i.e. Daylight and Incandescent; Incandescent and energy saving Compact Fluorescent
many optional presets are available to try, and, you can select a specific color temperature (Kelvin), or, use a white card in the space to automatically acquire a WB. I used to be hesitant to change WB, but now, shooting clothes for Donna to sell on eBay, I learned, once learned, easier than you think.
12. Picture Effect. I like High Contrast Black and White and Watercolor. Stupidly, B&W is in Creative Style, not here with High Contrast B&W and Rich B&W. Let me at em'.
page 10
a. Movie Button, Movie Button ONLY. Prevents accidental movie start (I don't do movies)
b. Audio Signals, OFF. Silent in public spaces, does not effect playback volume.
NETWORK TAB
- I only send single pics to a phone (using Fn Button's alternate when in play mode).
b, Airplane Mode, ON. That turns WiFi OFF, saves battery. On to send pics to phone, etc.
page 1
a. Monitor Brightness, Sunny Weather (see it in glare situations, dark situations)
Glare note: what you see is what is reflected, which is you and your clothes, so, a hat making shadow on your face, a dark blouse/shirt, no pattern, will help.
page 2
a. Delete Confirm, Delete First (don't ask me twice)
b. Display Quality, High. (uses more battery, just have spares).
c. Auto Monitor Off, 10 sec. Try to save battery, may put back to default Not Off
d. Power Save Start Time, 5 minutes. Don't want it turning while learning the menu, and, when strolling, looking for photo opportunities, don't want it turning off too often. May use less battery than turning on/off, extending/closing lens, ...
page 3
Touch Operation, OFF. After a while, I will turn it on, but too soon, too much to learn now.
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My Menu, I will post separately
I picked 30 items, and entered them Alphabetically. No need to go into god awful crazy menu for the things I might change, now and again, (not shot to shot, they are in Fn button menu).
My 'My Menu' choices
1st make your Fn Menu choices, they are the ones you want near instant access to
My Fn button menu (one button press, 12 icons, rocker to icon, change it)
1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker for AEL
2. Face Detect (in AF) (option if I want it, normally not)
3. Flash Comp (change flash strength shot to shot)
4. Focus Mode (method), AF-S my default, change to any choice instantly
5. Focus Area (size). change center to spot, zone, ... quick and easy.
6. Meter Area (size). often changed with Focus area size.
note adjacency of 4,5,6
7. Image Size (jpeg 20, 10, 5mp)(smart zoom automatically available at 10mp and 5mp)
more Clear Image Zoom is available at 10mp and even more at 5MP.
8. Aspect Ratio
9. DRO/HDR (dynamic range optimizer and or High Dynamic Range (stills)
10. ISO
11. WB White Balance. AWB is excellent outdoors, Indoors generally good, unless mixed light sources i.e. Daylight and Incandescent; Incandescent and energy saving Compact Fluorescent
many optional presets are available to try, and, you can select a specific color temperature (Kelvin), or, use a white card in the space to automatically acquire a WB. I used to be hesitant to change WB, but now, shooting clothes for Donna to sell on eBay, I learned, once learned, easier than you think.
12. Picture Effect. I like High Contrast Black and White and Watercolor. Stupidly, B&W is in Creative Style, not here with High Contrast B&W and Rich B&W. Let me at em'.
MY MENU
I made a list, sorted them A to Z. Items NOT in Fn Menu, but I want to find easily, perhaps repeatedly, only 5 pages of 6 items, in alphabetical order
AEL with Shutter
AF Illuminator
Airplane Mode
Auto Monitor Off
Auto Review
Bracket Settings
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Center Lock On AF (tracking focus)
Custom Key
Creative Style
Disp Button
Face Priority in MULTI (Focus Area Size)
.........note: Face Recognition in AF (any focus area size) is in Fn button menu
Fn Menu set
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Format
Initial Focus Magnification
Monitor Brightness
Panorama Direction
Peaking Settings
Phase Detect Area
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Power Save Start Time
Red Eye Reduction
Set Face Priority in AF
Smile Shutter
Soft Skin Effect
Spot Metering Point Center
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SteadyShot
Touch Operation
Touch Panel/Pad
Zebra
Zoom Speed
...........blank.......... (add a trial/temp item here, out of alphabetical order
I am actively shooting now, learning, and I have found My Menu is a life saver changing any of those 30 items.
Any time I have to find something not in Fn or MyMenu, it's very frustrating, especially outdoors with some glare on the LCD. Takes a long time, and you sometimes miss it, and have to back thru all the pages, find it, change it.
I can't shut up about it, but repeated search in the main menu while shooting, while learning, batteries, batteries.
I have been going thru stages of blur avoidance, trying slower shutter speeds, to help this lens keep low ISO.
continuous shooting, slow 3fps speed,
self timer 2 sec
hdr, which is 3 shots, then power for in-camera processing, then recording 2 images
all these use more power than normal also.
DRO involves processing, HDR and MFNR involve multi-shots and processing, the way I frequently hold half press focus and wait for something, all are terriific capabilities, using more power than simpler use.
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Just reset my rx100m6, now to make it mine:
- Fn menusettings I actively change, shot to shot)
- set up same or similar order in m3, RX1r, and m6,
- Custom Keysreassign buttons and rockers).
- right rocker always AF/MF control toggle.
- C button, Image Size (Jpeg). this is a NEW IDEA
I will actively use SZ, occasionally take a separate/alternate closer shot using CIZ.
Turn CIZ on in the main menu, therefore CIZ available at 20mp, 10mp, 5mp. Use it or not.
See zoom scale on lcd or in EVf, or, listen, zoom motor stops: that is end of Optical.
SZ automatically becomes available at 10mp, more at 5mp after Optical, Before CIZ
CIZ at 20mp and goes further at 10mp and 5mp. (range varies for each model).
Note: RX1r has no zoom, thus no CIZ. It has Smart Telecon Toggle, so C button is Smart Telecon, 1.4x, 2.0x, (automatically changes Image Size: 10mp, 5mp, back to 20mp. Icon shows.
SZ and CIZ. lots of info here:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4303505
- MY MENU.(as important as the Fn button Menu, thank you Sony).
The Sony manuals are at....
RX100M6 https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1750/v1/en/index.html
RX10M4 https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1720/v1/en/index.html
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rx100m6 MY MENU
Try menus, get started, change them as you figure it out, which items, what order, what adjacencies, wil become clear.
My Menu, pg 263 Help Guide
Main Menu is 6 categories, 34 primary pages, hard to remember where something is.
Initially used to learn and setup the camera, best avoided after that.
My Menu is an alternate Menu you create: 6 items per page, 5 pages, maximum 30 items. Much easier and faster to find the items you put there.
Supplements the Fn button menu, but different
- Fn menu is for fast changes while shooting, shot to shot, as needed.
put settings you actively change while shooting there.
single button press, all 12 items shown on 1 page, rocker to 1 of 12, change it. - My Menu, starts empty, it's setup page is page 1 to begin.
'Add Item' one at a time, (my menu has 31 pages of single item choices, no sub-menus).
max 6 items per page. no need to fill each page, you can group things for your logic
put settings you may use, or are learning. Only search 5 pages to find any item you put there.
After a while you may change the items, adjacencies, which page you put stuff on.
- Using My Menu
- press menu buttom
rocker up till in top 6 category bar
c. rocker over to the My Menu (STAR) icon
d. rocker down to 1st item on page 1.
e. find your item, rocker up or down or right to next page.
note: at last My Menu page, if you rocker right, it will jump to Camera 1 category.
*** my menu ***
11 airplane mode
12 monitor brightness
13 focus mode
14 focus area
15 panorama size
16 panorama direction
-- hide signature --
21 iso
22 exp comp
23 white balance
24 dro/auto hdr
25 creative style
26 picture profile
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31 gamma disp boost
32 zebras
33 peaking
34 mic level
35 movie rec settings
36 movie proxy record
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41 shutter type
42 bracket settings
43 zoom speed
44 af drive speed
44 af track sens
45 ___
46 ___
---
51 function menu set
52 stills custom key set
53 ___
54 mr store
55 format
56 version
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Plays Nicely with My Other Cameras
I realize I am very fortunate to have this collection of cameras.
Pre-ordered rx100m1, paid full price (it just died). I waited 2 years for a good deal on a used RX1r with EVF (my first and only FF). Paid full price for Oly Stylus 1, found used tele 510mm lens. Waited long time to get open box rx100m3; Was willing to pay full price, but got lucky with this open box rx100m6. Don't forget, it's my 70th birthday prize.
I bought and kept the new rx100m6. It's versatility is amazing. It adds, not replaces.
My images posted, max 11" high viewed or printed: it is already hard to tell the difference of Stylus 1 to rx100, and, if Shallow Focus not involved, hard to tell the difference rx100 to RX1r. It is about features providing capabilities.
I am keeping my rx100m3, RX1r, Stylus 1, adding my new rx100m6
they are distinct in their capability, distinct sizes, portability is very important.
- rx100m3.24-70mm. 1" sensor, 20mp. f1.8-2.8; Default: S Mode.
Smart Zoom: 10mp: 71-98mm; 5mp: 71-140mm. CIZ: 20mp 140mm.
low light/motion, close. my brightest lens. Crop 'lower ISO/less noise' shots. Outdoor CPL in other pocket, or belt case.
- RX1r.fixed 35mm. FF sensor. 24mp. f2.0; Default: A mode.
Smart Zoom: 50mm; 70mm, no CIZ
Shallow Focus depth provides artistic capabilities others do not. Very high IQ, but, I view or print no larger than 11" high. Higher IQ not easily apparent, Shallow Focus easily seen, even at icon size. Outdoor CPL, etc. in small shoulder bag with camera. Note: fits Jacket Pocket without EVF. Limited by fixed lcd, cannot shoot over peoples heads, etc.
- Stylus 1.28-300mm. 1/1.7" sensor, 12mp, constant f2.8; Default: S mode.
tele 1.7X = adds 301-510mm, constant f2.8. my brightest camera after 70mm
2X: expands base lens 301-600mm; extends 1.7X tele 511-1,020. All still f2.8
zoom for kids sports, birds, detail shots (not crops).
Crop 12mp some, not much; small sensor best ISO 800 or below.
Outdoor CPL needs Adapter Tube CLA-13. Tele needs same tube. Both kept together in a separate bag, to take separately, or attach the camera, fits in that bag, only 9" long.
- new rx100m6.24-200mm. 1" sensor, 20mp, f2.8-4.5; Default: ANY PASM Mode.
Smart Zoom: 10mp: 201-280mm; 5mp: 201-400mm. CIZ: 20mp 400mm.
Outdoor CPL in other pocket or belt/small shoulder bag.
surprisingly good IS and Jpeg Noise Reduction increases ability of darker lens.
increased shallow focus capability in 100-200mm range due to 1" sensor size.
Amazing PDCD AF system, incredible 24/10/3 fps, individual focus and exposure.
Note: I intend to further explore Jpeg features to improve low light capability: ISO MFNR (multi-frame noise reduction)(primary multi-shot blend); DRO (dynamic range optimiser) (primary, single shot, in-camera processing)(under-exposes highlights, selectively lifts shadows); HDR (high dymamic range)(alternate multi-shot blend)(original single shot as per settings taken also).
It is extremely versatile, however, Stylus 1 will best it for bright zoom, or more zoom.
Note: 200mm occasionally too short for Ben's soccer games now. Larger fields coming. Seats further away coming. I will test SZ 10mp 280 and 5mp 400mm, see what results I get. I use Oly 2X with no hesitation, so it is ready for larger fields and more distant seats, always 12mp.
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- protective carriers.Flexibility is fundamental:
- smallest: nylon dust cover for rx100 pant's pocket use
b. largest: mid-sized shoulder bag fitting any 2 of the cameras with accessories.
c. another mid-sized shoulder bag (fits camera with 1.7X attached, plus an rx100 along side the lens, and cpl, all in one bag.
d. belt/shoulder bag with removable straps. fits Stylus 1, RX1r without EVF; also fits either rx100 with CPL, filter stuff
e. waterproof pouch, with hook, hangs from beach umbrella spoke, away from sun, water, sand, kids.
rx100 m1, m3, m6, Face Dimensions, Will filter adapters fit?
In reply to elliottnewcomb • Jul 12, 2018
elliottnewcomb wrote:
my m6 arrived today, I will somehow be using a CPL outdoors.
The MagFilter ring just fits the lens face of the m6 lens barrel, both 37mm OD.
MagFilter ring 32mm ID does not block the lens opening
BUT, I gave my MagFilter adapter plates away!
What is the ID of the MagFilter Adapter Plate?
Will the adapter plate block any of the lens opening?
m6 lens opening is rectangular, 19mm h, 25mm w, 32mm diagonal
Kiwi plate, 34mm ID, on m6 37mm barrel face gives only 1.5mm wide circular surface of adhesive, will that be enough?
Kiwi is firm on my m3 42.5 mm barrel face, has 4+ mm wide circular surface of adhesive.
Elliott
Corrected Drawing, focus rings diameters revised, m1 is 58mm, m3 and m6 are 56mm.
Focus Ring's are different.
m1 is 58mm diameter, raised 1mm around the 56mm lens body. textured, very easy to feel/find/use
m3 is 56mm diameter, same as 56mm lens body. smoother texture, harder to feel/find/use
m6 is also 56mm, has new texture, very nice, easy to feel/find/use
…………
Inside diameter of MagFilter Adapter plates are 32mm, same size as 32mm ID of the metal ring.
They do not block the lens opening, so they can be used on the rx100m6 lens face
END OF 2023 TO 2021
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