RX10 IV custom settings revisited

[Bassy]

But I seem to be the only new user here)

thats because you are willing to share your experience

there are people all over the world looking here to find imformation and how to make the camera work for them

its just that they take and use

but never come on here and say how they are getting on

well thats what i think anyways

 

[Elliern]

But I seem to be the only new user here)

thats because you are willing to share your experience

there are people all over the world looking here to find imformation and how to make the camera work for them

its just that they take and use

but never come on here and say how they are getting on

well thats what i think anyways

Thanks, Bassy. I have always been a learner of new things. And I am used to sharing experiences with others. Even as a nursing education coordinator and IT “worker bee”, I was always looking for newer “best practice” standards for our nursing department. It was not always an easy task to say the least. But I loved my job and all the super intelligent and very kind and helpful leaders and co-workers

 

[da7329]

Ellie

Maybe you know this but just in case. If you are using M mode with auto ISO the the upper and lower iso limits are like walls. If you hit a the lower wall shots can come out to bright because the camera cannot lower the iso more and if you hit the upper wall shots can come out to dark because the camera cannot raise the iso more. You cannot use EC to make the shot darker when you hit the lower wall or brighter when you hit the upper wall. You have to make changes to SS and or Aperture when you are hitting a wall. I have been using M mode with auto ISO for years but my wife still has many shots where she has hit the wall and complains to me why the shot is to dark or light. You have to keep the iso above the lower wall with enough buffer for EC to work and below the upper wall with enough buffer for EC to work.

DA

 

[Elliern]

Ellie

Maybe you know this but just in case. If you are using M mode with auto ISO the the upper and lower iso limits are like walls. If you hit a the lower wall shots can come out to bright because the camera cannot lower the iso more and if you hit the upper wall shots can come out to dark because the camera cannot raise the iso more. You cannot use EC to make the shot darker when you hit the lower wall or brighter when you hit the upper wall. You have to make changes to SS and or Aperture when you are hitting a wall. I have been using M mode with auto ISO for years but my wife still has many shots where she has hit the wall and complains to me why the shot is to dark or light. You have to keep the iso above the lower wall with enough buffer for EC to work and below the upper wall with enough buffer for EC to work.

DA

Thanks, DA. So EC won’t work all the time in M mode, is what you are saying? When I read the earlier posts, I thought it worked all the time in M. Will have to get out and try to see exactly how it works

 

[da7329]

Ellie

EC works in M mode but it works by raising or lowering ISO as SS and Aperture are fixed by user in M mode. Say ISO range is 100-3200 and it is a cloudy day and you are shooting at high SS. Reviewing an image you note the iso is 3200 and the shot looks dark so you add plus EC to make it brighter but it has no effect. In this case the iso was maxed out at 3200 so EC could not raise it higher to make the image brighter. For an iso range of like 100-3200 choosing Shutter speeds which keep the ISO values from say 200 to 1600 would give EC a stop on the low side and high side to work with. I look at a lot of my wife’s shots her iso range is 100-6400 on the D500. I see many shots with iso 6400 and EC like plus 1 or greater and they look dark! She blames me! I keep telling her you have to lower your SS if iso is hitting 6400 as EC will not work. Hard to believe her shots are used in many publications tech is not her thing.

DA

 

[FrankieMcG]

Or: When manual isn't

....

So: now my BIF settings are stored in M1 as:

Manual mode

Shutter speed 1/2000th

F4

Auto ISO, lower limit 100, upper limit 3200 (this one will likely attract some comments)

Wide AF, continuous

Center metering (pretty much accepting that I almost invariably using some EC)

High burst rate

And my PERCHED BIRDS settings are stored in M2 as:

Manual mode

Shutter speed 1/1000th

F4

Auto ISO, lower limit 100, upper limit 1600

Small Flexible Spot AF, continuous

Spot metering

Medium burst rate

Alwyn, thank you for these basic settings. Really useful.

Can you tell me why you chose F4 as your go-to aperture, as opposed to wide-open at F2.4? I'm pretty new to this camera, so correct me if I am wrong, but with a crop factor of 2.7, as far as depth of field goes, F4 is more like F11 Full-Frame equivalent, and F2.4 is more like F6.5 Full-Frame equivalent. Is depth of field your concern, or is it all that amazing sunshine you appear to have in BC?

 

[AlwynS]

Or: When manual isn't

....

So: now my BIF settings are stored in M1 as:

Manual mode

Shutter speed 1/2000th

F4

Auto ISO, lower limit 100, upper limit 3200 (this one will likely attract some comments)

Wide AF, continuous

Center metering (pretty much accepting that I almost invariably using some EC)

High burst rate

And my PERCHED BIRDS settings are stored in M2 as:

Manual mode

Shutter speed 1/1000th

F4

Auto ISO, lower limit 100, upper limit 1600

Small Flexible Spot AF, continuous

Spot metering

Medium burst rate

Alwyn, thank you for these basic settings. Really useful.

Can you tell me why you chose F4 as your go-to aperture, as opposed to wide-open at F2.4? I'm pretty new to this camera, so correct me if I am wrong, but with a crop factor of 2.7, as far as depth of field goes, F4 is more like F11 Full-Frame equivalent, and F2.4 is more like F6.5 Full-Frame equivalent. Is depth of field your concern, or is it all that amazing sunshine you appear to have in BC?

Cheers Frankie

The maximum f-stop of 2.4 is only available at lower focal lengths. As you zoom and increase focal length, the maximum available aperture drops off to f4 pretty quickly. So you can set the aperture ring on f2.4 but if you are using higher focal lengths (which I think is pretty much unavoidable for birding), the camera can only use f4 so it will drop to that. I cannot recall at what focal length it drops but it is at pretty small focal lengths if I recall correctly.

Nice and sunny this time of year but BC can be pretty grey and rainy once summer is over...

 

[FrankieMcG]

Oh, of course. Duh. I wasn't thinking. Plum forgot about the max aperture on zoom, the zoom of course being the main reason we buy this camera in the first place.

Thanks a lot for your quick reply. Appreciate it.

 

[AlwynS]

You are very welcome. And I think most of us have a “What WAS I thinking??!!” moment now and then.

 

[cheddarman]

Interesting how one changes habits of a lifetime (well almost).

Since meeting a very savvy Belgium gentleman on Skomer Island while photographing Puffins, I have also revisited my BIF settings and now use:

Shutter Priority set at 1/5000 or 1/3200

ISO Auto

f4

Focus A/F Wide - see the Buzzard, but for BIF where there are other objects in the field of view - see the Puffin, I change this to Lock-on AF - Flexible Spot S

Exposure (against the sky) Centre with EV +0.7. When using the Lock-On focus the EV is set to 0.0.

BUZZARD



PUFFIN



Being nearly three years into it now, the RX10M4 is a long learning, continual changing process. The Puffin is pretty heavily cropped as it was quite a long way away!

--
Michael
https://www.flickr.com/photos/63508234@N06/

 

[FrankieMcG]

Alwyn, do you shoot in RAW, RAW+JPEG(Fine) or JPEG(Extra Fine)?

My desire would be to shoot in the highest possible JPEG quality, Extra Fine, and have RAW as backup. Unfortunately, that option is not available.

With a RAW backup, I am more likely to remove excess noise in ON1 NoNoise AI software, rather than tackling noise in a JPEG file.

 

[AlwynS]

Alwyn, do you shoot in RAW, RAW+JPEG(Fine) or JPEG(Extra Fine)?

My desire would be to shoot in the highest possible JPEG quality, Extra Fine, and have RAW as backup. Unfortunately, that option is not available.

With a RAW backup, I am more likely to remove excess noise in ON1 NoNoise AI software, rather than tackling noise in a JPEG file.

I started out shooting JPEG extra fine but changed over to just RAW (no JPG) just over two years ago. I like the extra possibilities that RAW gives me and with the (free) Capture One Express for Sony I find the effort in PP to be be comparable to JPG editing.

Recognise that C1 has rather average noise reduction but for my photography I can live with that. I like the ease of use of C1 compared to the short look I had at the free trial of DxO Photolab 5, but I can readily accept that is due to my familiarity with C1. Regular users (e.g. Digital Nigel) swear by the usability and productivity: refer this thread as example as there is a lot of good info there.

After seeing some of the capabilities of PL5 I am tempted to purchase that should it become available at heavy discount (maybe 50%?) around Black Friday. Either way: I think it is well worth it to at least try the free trial versions of at least a couple of RAW developers/editors you would consider before deciding: that is the best time to do it before you commit to anything!

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Baj1]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

 

[cheddarman]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

Not quite sure what you're asking here Baj1. I wasn't aware that there was a "subject detection" and by the way, humans are animals.

--
Michael
https://www.flickr.com/photos/63508234@N06/

 

[Confreg]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

Not quite sure what you're asking here Baj1. I wasn't aware that there was a "subject detection" and by the way, humans are animals.

Ver 2.00 added real-time Eye AF for animals

Menu 1->AF2 (6/14)->Face/Eye AF Set->Subject

Doesn’t seem to work for birds probably better for larger animals

 

[Baj1]

Lol we sure are humans. Although I get told I eat like an animal ha.

There's a setting where you can choose between detection of either a human or animal.

If I member right..some settings don't work when animal detection is selected.

 

[Baj1]

Thank you. Didn't see that. Think I'm struggling navigating through forum. Forum and camera to learn

 

[Baj1]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

Not quite sure what you're asking here Baj1. I wasn't aware that there was a "subject detection" and by the way, humans are animals.

Ver 2.00 added real-time Eye AF for animals

Menu 1->AF2 (6/14)->Face/Eye AF Set->Subject

Doesn’t seem to work for birds probably better for larger animals

Just realised was ment for cheddarman..see my other reply said I'm leaning how the forum works ha

 

[AlwynS]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

Hi there. I do not use either as a) I rarely photograph people and b) I found that animal eye detection wasn't of any real benefit in the birding photography I normally do. I described my experience with it in THIS THREAD

 

[cheddarman]

Hi totally new to this camera and thanks for sharing the info.

Could you please tell me if subject detection set to animal or human

Thanks

Not quite sure what you're asking here Baj1. I wasn't aware that there was a "subject detection" and by the way, humans are animals.

Ver 2.00 added real-time Eye AF for animals

Menu 1->AF2 (6/14)->Face/Eye AF Set->Subject

Doesn’t seem to work for birds probably better for larger animals

Yep, just found that!