Learning to use RAW files

[Texas hobbyist]

I have Topaz and wondered if it is suitable for developing RAW files or if DXO is significantly better? Can anyone point me to a place to learn how to do this as I've only started shooting Raw.

 

[JeremyB2]

You don't say which Topaz applications you have, but DxO would be a much better bet assuming it is PhotoLab rather than PureRaw. You would find Topaz to be limited other than for certain specific editing functions and I'm not sure if they will all work with RAW.

I note that you have the Sony RX10 IV so you might like to try the free version of Capture One called Capture One Express but this will only work with files from your Sony camera.

Whether for DxO or Capture One you will find plenty of helpful webinars, videos and written assistance at the companies’ websites or on YouTube.

 

[Ab S]

If Capture One Express for Sony is still free of charge than that is a perfect way to start with RAW processing. However, I read at DPR that C1 stopped with this free version. But I would say just give it a try.

At this time I would not recommend a full C1 to start with; DxO PL-5 with DeepPrime NR would be a better choice for non-professional use.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

Oh, sorry! I have Topaz Studio with Re-mask, Sharpen AI, De-noise and gigapixel and yes I use the Sony RX10 M4. Thank you for the assistance.

 

[JeremyB2]

Having read the info at the links below I’m still a little uncertain whether free Capture One Express is still available. As Ab says, nothing lost by giving it a go.

https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express

https://www.rangefinderonline.com/n...ntinues-its-fujifilm-nikon-and-sony-versions/

https://support.captureone.com/hc/e...4950546973-Capture-One-Express-no-longer-free

 

[Digital Nigel]

Oh, sorry! I have Topaz Studio with Re-mask, Sharpen AI, De-noise and gigapixel and yes I use the Sony RX10 M4. Thank you for the assistance.

Are those the old, discontinued versions of the Topaz apps that worked with Studio, or the current versions? I only have the latter and would advise against using them on raw files — the features are non-existent, and the results poor. I use DxO PhotoLab on all images, plus Sharpen AI, DeNoise AI or Gigapixel AI on a very small minority of images.

For example, with a low light ISO6400 image, I might first process using DxO DeepPRIME at a high setting, followed by DeNoise AI to give a final polish. But very images are noisy enough to need such extreme NR. For pictures taken from moving trains or planrs, Sharpen AI helps a lot. But I would not use it as a raw processor.

 

[sybersitizen]

I have Topaz and wondered if it is suitable for developing RAW files

I assume many people consider Topaz Studio suitable.

or if DXO is significantly better?

Better is mostly a subjective judgment, not a definitive one.

Can anyone point me to a place to learn how to do this as I've only started shooting Raw.

How to do what? Use Topaz Studio 2 to process RAW files? Here's a short tutorial:

 

[Texas hobbyist]

Thanks Nigel. All my Topaz and the plug ins are current with all updates. I know zero about how to manipulate raw files so I’m starting from scratch with whatever program i use. I was able to download capture one free version but haven’t done much with it yet. I may try the DXO trial and just see which one I best understand.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

I was able to download the capture one free version. Now I just need to try to learn how to use it. Thank you!!

 

[Texas hobbyist]

Thank you! I’ll watch this video. I’m starting from scratch so any information will be helpful. I’ve never processed a raw file so this will be interesting.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thanks Nigel. All my Topaz and the plug ins are current with all updates. I know zero about how to manipulate raw files so I’m starting from scratch with whatever program i use. I was able to download capture one free version but haven’t done much with it yet. I may try the DXO trial and just see which one I best understand.

Comparing C1 Express and DxO, in my case I found C1 Express hard to get into and use, more difficult to use than DxO - but it all depends of course on what you get used to. Its conversions are high quality. Great for a freebie.

For the last two years DxO has discounted all its software 50% at Black Friday time, so if you can wait until November than it should be again less painful on the credit card.

DxO Photolab Elite version is the one to look at because of DeepPRIME that is useful for higher ISO shots, slow processing on my older notebooks but if a modern capable graphics processor is available it speeds up DeepPRIME a lot. Only used on a few shots so the wait is no problem for me. It can be processing something in the background while I get on with fiddling with the next image.

On accessing a folder, DxO will pause and download profiles for any new combinations of cameras and or lenses it finds. The profiles are lab created and definitely get slightly better quality out of the lenses compared to the camera jpegs. Plus the colours are generally more accurate.

Photolab provides a variety of canned profiles to explore, such as things like HDR Realistic or HDR Artistic plus a lot of other variations and also B&W conversions. They can be clicked on and used as-is or go do further adjusts to make it the way you like.

Start learning at https://www.dxo.com/dxo-photolab/learn/

Another thought about a toolbox type raw converter is Affinity Photo, again, not as easy as DxO to use but offers more features like stitching and stacking that DxO has yet to add. It's raw conversion is OK but not up to DxO quality. I use Affinity for the toolbox nature of it, so is a handy tool to have. Often discounted up to 50% on its already cheap price. Nice sensible tutorials at https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/tutorials/photo/desktop/

Back to DxO.... The recommended necessary added cost for DxO Photolab is ideally also buying DxO Viewpoint to get perspective correction made easy, plus it also provides correction for those very wide angle shots where people at the edges put on a lot of weight, they can be made to look normal.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

1. Thank you! I’ve made a note to watch for their sale.

 

[Michael Fritzen]

I was able to download the capture one free version. Now I just need to try to learn how to use it. Thank you!!

Hi,

using C1 myself (however the paid version) it's not about a "download of a free version". The difference between versions -if nothing fundamental had changed in the meantime- is in the installation process where it separates among a full featured 30-day trial version, the paid version (insertion of the licence key) and the brand specific express version with a limited set of features.

If I'm not mistaken, I think it was anounced that C1 would end the release of brand specific versions. Not sure though about the time frame, whether it applies already or when and what's about free (Express) versions. Test/trial version is likely to continue. Best to visit their homepage to find out details.

 

[Guy Parsons]

I was able to download the capture one free version. Now I just need to try to learn how to use it. Thank you!!

Hi,

using C1 myself (however the paid version) it's not about a "download of a free version". The difference between versions -if nothing fundamental had changed in the meantime- is in the installation process where it separates among a full featured 30-day trial version, the paid version (insertion of the licence key) and the brand specific express version with a limited set of features.

If I'm not mistaken, I think it was anounced that C1 would end the release of brand specific versions.

I ended up interpreting that as the cheaper full featured paid versions that handled only Sony or Fuji were ending and the limited feature freebie Express versions would continue.

Not sure though about the time frame, whether it applies already or when and what's about free (Express) versions. Test/trial version is likely to continue. Best to visit their homepage to find out details.

Not long after the announcement I downloaded and installed the latest freebie version.

Visiting their page today the link to Express only leads to the Fuji version of the freebie. To find the Sony version I needed to Google and got https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/sony

I deactivated my licence for Computer 1 and downloaded afresh to Computer 2 and installed and activated it OK using the free licence that I have had for some time.

The gotcha of course is maybe that I am getting historical support and newcomers after whatever date may not be able to get a free licence???

Anyway, it installed for me and somehow I have C1-21 and C1-22 installed OK, here's the C1-22 Express that I just now installed....



On this page https://support.captureone.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002465337-Capture-One-product-variants I find....



That leads to a page where I see... https://support.captureone.com/hc/en-us/articles/4416243437969 that there seems to be no mention of the Express versions for Sony and Fuji. It still works for me but maybe the freebies run out after C1-22 ?

 

[JeremyB2]

Good to hear that you've managed to download Capture One Express. It may seem a bit mind-boggling at first, as probably will PhotoLab 5 Elite, but a few hours spent getting familiar with the basics will pay off. Initially, it's only too easy to feel that you need to be playing with a lot of the available options, but start off simply and progress from there.

Some suggestions:-

First of all have Levels and High Dynamic Range set to 'Auto Adjust' (top left – Adjustments > Configure Auto Adjustments) which are triggered by Ctrl L on the keyboard. This gives you a good starting point and from there you can tweak HDR to suit the image. I usually find that the Auto Adjust setting for Levels is pretty good.

Then try applying a little Clarity (it may not be available in the Express version). I often boost Saturation from 0 to 4 (that's a personal preference). The standard Sharpening is set to 160 and I don't often mess with that. Finally, play with the Exposure setting, bearing in mind that this will have some affect on other settings. By this stage I am often happy with the image but will sometimes tweak White Balance very slightly if I feel it's necessary. Other settings such as Contrast & Brightness are used occasionally.

Doing the above is pretty fast; probably no slower than doing similar things with a JPEG in Elements or something similar. If I have a series of images which are similar I will click on the Copy/Apply upward facing arrow at top right, and then when I move to the next image I click on the downwards facing Copy/Apply arrow.

That's about it to start off with. The C1 Noise Reduction is not as good as DeepPrime in PhotoLab, but it can yield improvements. From then on, if you are so inclined and the image warrants it, playing with Colour Balance and / or the Colour Editor can be fun. The Keystone tool is often useful with buildings and the Magic Brush (another one that may not be in Express), Healing mask & Cloning mask can be handy once you have got used to them.

Other users of C1, probably much more competent than I am, will use it differently. Over time you will develop a sequence that suits you.

There is so much more in C1, much of which I will rarely if ever use. It's important to set up your Export recipes correctly (these appear when you click on Export).

In the Express version some of the things mentioned above may not apply. The tools I talk about will probably appear in different Tool Tabs but it's very easy to configure a personalised tool tab containing just those you will use routinely.

I can highly recommend the 'Photographers Guide to Capture One' by Nils Wille Christoffersen which is available as a download. I know it's more expenditure but I have found it invaluable in helping me to get to grips with the basics of C1.

PS. As you probably already know, working on images in C1 or PhotoLab is a nondestructive process. This means that at any point you can go back to your original RAW file and try different settings.

 

[Jon555]

It partly depends on the camera you are using, but IMHO DXO Photolab is the best way to start in Raw developing as the lens modules and noise reduction are top notch and it's quite simple to use...

 

[Pi lover]

I have Topaz and wondered if it is suitable for developing RAW files or if DXO is significantly better? Can anyone point me to a place to learn how to do this as I've only started shooting Raw.

"Better" depends on whether you know how to use the controls.

I made my living as a computer programmer. The person responsible for buying software for literally thousands of programmers switched to software that was cheaper once. Very few learned the new software. He told me he wouldn't have changed if he knew how people would react. There is value in software because you know how to use it.

Download trial versions if something interests you.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

The initial capture one page I went to was indeed a trial version for the pro version. However I did a search for capture one free version for Sony Rx10 and was taken to a different page on Capture One for the download. I’m just now checking it out but I guess in 30 days I’ll know for sure.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

Good advice. Thanks.

 

[Texas hobbyist]

I’m using my Sony RX10 iv and I have taken the advice of many here and downloaded dxo trial version and capture one free version. I just came home from a trip to the mountains and have about 1200 photos to go through so I’ll try these and see which one works best for me I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go

Thank you so much!!