Negative & Slide Scanning using the OM-1

[Guy Parsons]

All good Guy and understand people get busy to be mucking around with stuff here, thought you may have had a photo handy you have done already, I was looking at upgrading my V500 to a V700 or later but glad I didn't as I think our Camera Gear does a much better job when done properly, hey thanks for your response

Still looking for an example but such a mess of all methods over the years and not easy to find. That's why I would like to do a fresh comparo to see if I'm fooling myself or not.

Camera with RC controlled TTL flash works a treat.

I use auto gradation or whatever it is called to better see on the preview what might be in the slide, then use the raw file to tease out an even better result. With a weak light shining on the film I use touch screen AF on a suitable contrasty part of the image. Usually the 60mm macro is at f/5.6 to gain a bit of DOF to fix any slide wobbles.

Raw conversions steadily get better as raw converter software evolves and provides better results.

An example would be slides shot in strong daylight where deep shadows hide any detail, often I can get a good result seeing into those murky areas without it looking HDRish..

 

[Boo]

All good Guy and understand people get busy to be mucking around with stuff here, thought you may have had a photo handy you have done already, I was looking at upgrading my V500 to a V700 or later but glad I didn't as I think our Camera Gear does a much better job when done properly, hey thanks for your response

Still looking for an example but such a mess of all methods over the years and not easy to find. That's why I would like to do a fresh comparo to see if I'm fooling myself or not.

Camera with RC controlled TTL flash works a treat.

I use auto gradation or whatever it is called to better see on the preview what might be in the slide, then use the raw file to tease out an even better result. With a weak light shining on the film I use touch screen AF on a suitable contrasty part of the image. Usually the 60mm macro is at f/5.6 to gain a bit of DOF to fix any slide wobbles.

Raw conversions steadily get better as raw converter software evolves and provides better results.

An example would be slides shot in strong daylight where deep shadows hide any detail, often I can get a good result seeing into those murky areas without it looking HDRish..

I was going to add to the thread earlier that shooting RAW gives an additional advantage to get the best from the slides. I've been working on digitising a lot of my late father's slides and some negs using my E-M10 with the 60mm macro and a copying rig that I McGivered from stuff I already had (including a white Christmas pudding bowl) and I made some slide mount trays using my craft cutting machine. I think the only cost was an inexpensive LED light box as my lighting source.

Even on some slides that looked beyond help, I got detail from the images that couldn't be seen on a small slide viewer. I'm not on my computer to be able to upload this image of me with my Mum, but this link might work - this was blown in the whole window area and totally black in the foreground - I only really copied it out of curiosity to see if I could/how much improve it. Because I was doing a lot and they were just initially going to be shared online with a few family members, I developed and exported them as small copies to cut down the work. A less automated workflow would yield better results - I've done that with the few we wanted to print.

https://photos.imageevent.com/boophotos/europe1964/europe1964_2029emrd_sm.jpg

 

[the bluesman]

All good Guy and understand people get busy to be mucking around with stuff here, thought you may have had a photo handy you have done already, I was looking at upgrading my V500 to a V700 or later but glad I didn't as I think our Camera Gear does a much better job when done properly, hey thanks for your response

Still looking for an example but such a mess of all methods over the years and not easy to find. That's why I would like to do a fresh comparo to see if I'm fooling myself or not.

Camera with RC controlled TTL flash works a treat.

I use auto gradation or whatever it is called to better see on the preview what might be in the slide, then use the raw file to tease out an even better result. With a weak light shining on the film I use touch screen AF on a suitable contrasty part of the image. Usually the 60mm macro is at f/5.6 to gain a bit of DOF to fix any slide wobbles.

Raw conversions steadily get better as raw converter software evolves and provides better results.

An example would be slides shot in strong daylight where deep shadows hide any detail, often I can get a good result seeing into those murky areas without it looking HDRish..

I was going to add to the thread earlier that shooting RAW gives an additional advantage to get the best from the slides. I've been working on digitising a lot of my late father's slides and some negs using my E-M10 with the 60mm macro and a copying rig that I McGivered from stuff I already had (including a white Christmas pudding bowl) and I made some slide mount trays using my craft cutting machine. I think the only cost was an inexpensive LED light box as my lighting source.

Even on some slides that looked beyond help, I got detail from the images that couldn't be seen on a small slide viewer. I'm not on my computer to be able to upload this image of me with my Mum, but this link might work - this was blown in the whole window area and totally black in the foreground - I only really copied it out of curiosity to see if I could/how much improve it. Because I was doing a lot and they were just initially going to be shared online with a few family members, I developed and exported them as small copies to cut down the work. A less automated workflow would yield better results - I've done that with the few we wanted to print.

https://photos.imageevent.com/boophotos/europe1964/europe1964_2029emrd_sm.jpg

Wow Boo that's an amazing shot and one well and truly worth bringing back to life and preserving via a digital file, I'm in full swing now having scanned Hundreds of images with my setup, the editing is the thing taking the time and I will take my time with it

Hey what year was your image taken in, just looking at my mates images from 1971-1975 I'm blown away with the quality and am now starting to love and develop a passion for old camera gear

 

[Guy Parsons]

An excellent result, I can imagine what the slide looked like knowing how limited the dynamic range of colour reversal reversal film is. A real problem in Australia as we generally have very clear skies and thus very deep shadows in daylight situations.

I had something similar with the subject being in full sun beside and white wall and prominent in the frame was an open door leading into the gloom of her house (in Nepal). Projected the slide was OK but black shadows inside the house, loupe on bright lightbox same, but scanned and raw fiddled suddenly some interior detail was revealed in the deep shadows.

As I noted earlier, my scans are in a mess and although all backed up have the original scan results spread across a few computers at home. Some collections only partially done, some complete but trying to remember which process was used for which set is the problem.

As mentioned too busy with house maintenance before I get too creaky to climb ladders so my spare time after a day of work is spent being lazy instead of slaving over scans.

Must get my mind into gear and get scanning again instead of being the after work recovery vegetable.

Old age is a pain as I only get about half what I used to get done in a day.

 

[Boo]

All good Guy and understand people get busy to be mucking around with stuff here, thought you may have had a photo handy you have done already, I was looking at upgrading my V500 to a V700 or later but glad I didn't as I think our Camera Gear does a much better job when done properly, hey thanks for your response

Still looking for an example but such a mess of all methods over the years and not easy to find. That's why I would like to do a fresh comparo to see if I'm fooling myself or not.

Camera with RC controlled TTL flash works a treat.

I use auto gradation or whatever it is called to better see on the preview what might be in the slide, then use the raw file to tease out an even better result. With a weak light shining on the film I use touch screen AF on a suitable contrasty part of the image. Usually the 60mm macro is at f/5.6 to gain a bit of DOF to fix any slide wobbles.

Raw conversions steadily get better as raw converter software evolves and provides better results.

An example would be slides shot in strong daylight where deep shadows hide any detail, often I can get a good result seeing into those murky areas without it looking HDRish..

I was going to add to the thread earlier that shooting RAW gives an additional advantage to get the best from the slides. I've been working on digitising a lot of my late father's slides and some negs using my E-M10 with the 60mm macro and a copying rig that I McGivered from stuff I already had (including a white Christmas pudding bowl) and I made some slide mount trays using my craft cutting machine. I think the only cost was an inexpensive LED light box as my lighting source.

Even on some slides that looked beyond help, I got detail from the images that couldn't be seen on a small slide viewer. I'm not on my computer to be able to upload this image of me with my Mum, but this link might work - this was blown in the whole window area and totally black in the foreground - I only really copied it out of curiosity to see if I could/how much improve it. Because I was doing a lot and they were just initially going to be shared online with a few family members, I developed and exported them as small copies to cut down the work. A less automated workflow would yield better results - I've done that with the few we wanted to print.

https://photos.imageevent.com/boophotos/europe1964/europe1964_2029emrd_sm.jpg

Wow Boo that's an amazing shot and one well and truly worth bringing back to life and preserving via a digital file, I'm in full swing now having scanned Hundreds of images with my setup, the editing is the thing taking the time and I will take my time with it

Hey what year was your image taken in, just looking at my mates images from 1971-1975 I'm blown away with the quality and am now starting to love and develop a passion for old camera gear

I have many hundreds still to go - I’ve only done a tiny fraction of my late father's collection - he was a pro with a prolific body of work. It perhaps took a week or more just to narrow them down to ones to keep to look further at - I'm afraid I’ve thrown away thousands already - we decided to keep largely only ones with family in them. I just wish Dad had got to see what could be done with them now - that I can improve exposure, clone out scratches and hair, do local adjustments etc. It seems that I can retrieve good detail from dark areas, but to a lesser extent from overexposed areas.

That image was taken at a violin workshop somewhere in Austria in 1964. The range I have start in 1955 with ones my Grandad took of their world travels, up to the mid 1980s. I was planning to do more over the coming winter - but they're quite poignant, so I have to be in the mood to face them - some are blooming hilarious though. I tend to do them in batches (maybe 50-ish) - shoot, download, develop and publish online, then do another batch.

 

[Boo]

An excellent result, I can imagine what the slide looked like knowing how limited the dynamic range of colour reversal reversal film is. A real problem in Australia as we generally have very clear skies and thus very deep shadows in daylight situations.

I had something similar with the subject being in full sun beside and white wall and prominent in the frame was an open door leading into the gloom of her house (in Nepal). Projected the slide was OK but black shadows inside the house, loupe on bright lightbox same, but scanned and raw fiddled suddenly some interior detail was revealed in the deep shadows.

As I noted earlier, my scans are in a mess and although all backed up have the original scan results spread across a few computers at home. Some collections only partially done, some complete but trying to remember which process was used for which set is the problem.

As mentioned too busy with house maintenance before I get too creaky to climb ladders so my spare time after a day of work is spent being lazy instead of slaving over scans.

Must get my mind into gear and get scanning again instead of being the after work recovery vegetable.

Old age is a pain as I only get about half what I used to get done in a day.

I've been quite disciplined with mine in respect of being organised with filing, working to completion in small batches and filing away completed sets in date order - as my poor son will inherit this lot and needs to be able to make sense of it - if he wants to, that is.

I know what you mean about time management and what you get done in a day. Since I lost my husband I find even making a meal, washing up etc takes a preposterous amount of my day and I get way less done than I intend each day. Don't overdo it if going up ladders etc, please just be careful.

 

[the bluesman]

All good Guy and understand people get busy to be mucking around with stuff here, thought you may have had a photo handy you have done already, I was looking at upgrading my V500 to a V700 or later but glad I didn't as I think our Camera Gear does a much better job when done properly, hey thanks for your response

Still looking for an example but such a mess of all methods over the years and not easy to find. That's why I would like to do a fresh comparo to see if I'm fooling myself or not.

Camera with RC controlled TTL flash works a treat.

I use auto gradation or whatever it is called to better see on the preview what might be in the slide, then use the raw file to tease out an even better result. With a weak light shining on the film I use touch screen AF on a suitable contrasty part of the image. Usually the 60mm macro is at f/5.6 to gain a bit of DOF to fix any slide wobbles.

Raw conversions steadily get better as raw converter software evolves and provides better results.

An example would be slides shot in strong daylight where deep shadows hide any detail, often I can get a good result seeing into those murky areas without it looking HDRish..

I was going to add to the thread earlier that shooting RAW gives an additional advantage to get the best from the slides. I've been working on digitising a lot of my late father's slides and some negs using my E-M10 with the 60mm macro and a copying rig that I McGivered from stuff I already had (including a white Christmas pudding bowl) and I made some slide mount trays using my craft cutting machine. I think the only cost was an inexpensive LED light box as my lighting source.

Even on some slides that looked beyond help, I got detail from the images that couldn't be seen on a small slide viewer. I'm not on my computer to be able to upload this image of me with my Mum, but this link might work - this was blown in the whole window area and totally black in the foreground - I only really copied it out of curiosity to see if I could/how much improve it. Because I was doing a lot and they were just initially going to be shared online with a few family members, I developed and exported them as small copies to cut down the work. A less automated workflow would yield better results - I've done that with the few we wanted to print.

https://photos.imageevent.com/boophotos/europe1964/europe1964_2029emrd_sm.jpg

Wow Boo that's an amazing shot and one well and truly worth bringing back to life and preserving via a digital file, I'm in full swing now having scanned Hundreds of images with my setup, the editing is the thing taking the time and I will take my time with it

Hey what year was your image taken in, just looking at my mates images from 1971-1975 I'm blown away with the quality and am now starting to love and develop a passion for old camera gear

I have many hundreds still to go - I’ve only done a tiny fraction of my late father's collection - he was a pro with a prolific body of work. It perhaps took a week or more just to narrow them down to ones to keep to look further at - I'm afraid I’ve thrown away thousands already - we decided to keep largely only ones with family in them. I just wish Dad had got to see what could be done with them now - that I can improve exposure, clone out scratches and hair, do local adjustments etc. It seems that I can retrieve good detail from dark areas, but to a lesser extent from overexposed areas.

That image was taken at a violin workshop somewhere in Austria in 1964. The range I have start in 1955 with ones my Grandad took of their world travels, up to the mid 1980s. I was planning to do more over the coming winter - but they're quite poignant, so I have to be in the mood to face them - some are blooming hilarious though. I tend to do them in batches (maybe 50-ish) - shoot, download, develop and publish online, then do another batch.

You have your work cut out for you and this kind of stuff can do your head in, as I'm typing this I've just finished a batch of my own family Negs with hundreds more to go, I need a break now as it's all getting a bit much

Wow your picture from 1964 is one to be proud of and reason to keep going as it's a piece of art, thanks for posting it up

 

[Guy Parsons]

Don't overdo it if going up ladders etc, please just be careful.

I do sort of know my limits so am careful.

One recent episode was on the roof sanding and painting various woodwork and skylight windows. A neighbour was horrified that I was not wearing a safety harness.

Whatever, I've been dancing about on the roof for over 50 years now and have yet to fall off. Roof is sort of one story off the ground at front and about 3 stories high at the back. Low slope angle so easy to walk all over it.

Come to think of it there was a danger, in investigating a heart regularity issue it was found that my heart arteries were nearly totally clogged, so open heart surgery back in June to get the internal plumbing sorted. I could have simply had a heart attack while up there, so it's good that I have been repaired. Currently age 83, might even get to my mum's near 98 if I keep off that roof.

Just for fun, some Lego photography...



That could be me with the grey hair, but my wife certainly doesn't have red hair or use a selfie stick.

 

[Boo]

Don't overdo it if going up ladders etc, please just be careful.

I do sort of know my limits so am careful.

One recent episode was on the roof sanding and painting various woodwork and skylight windows. A neighbour was horrified that I was not wearing a safety harness.

Whatever, I've been dancing about on the roof for over 50 years now and have yet to fall off. Roof is sort of one story off the ground at front and about 3 stories high at the back. Low slope angle so easy to walk all over it.

Come to think of it there was a danger, in investigating a heart regularity issue it was found that my heart arteries were nearly totally clogged, so open heart surgery back in June to get the internal plumbing sorted. I could have simply had a heart attack while up there, so it's good that I have been repaired. Currently age 83, might even get to my mum's near 98 if I keep off that roof.

Just for fun, some Lego photography...



That could be me with the grey hair, but my wife certainly doesn't have red hair or use a selfie stick.

Glad that you got your heart fixed - but don't undo the surgeon's good work by falling off. You couldn't walk around on my roof, it's a very steep pitch indeed (about 60°) - so steep that even roofers won't work on it - took me four years to find one who would, when I sprung a leak.

I too have a Lego version of me. I could do with borrowing your wife's hair, it looks more like mine than mine does.


Me, doing a macro with my GF3 - with the 500D close up lens screwed on the front. Obviously.

 

[User9180204109]

Thank you for a really interesting post, but could you please post an image of your setup? I get the impression that the slide holder/illumination module is not attached to the camera/lens and I therefore wonder how you line up the slide plane with the camera imager plane to keep everything in the correct position to ensure consistent focus across the entire slide being imaged. I am guessing you have set it up on some type of rig to make the process simple and easily repeatable.

Like others here I have many slides from my film camera days, but dedicated slide scanners and flat bed scanners are just too slow to be practical for archiving my collection. Your solution sounds like a way around that, hence my interest and thanks to you for posting about your solution, plus the others who have contributed to you OP post.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thank you for a really interesting post, but could you please post an image of your setup? I get the impression that the slide holder/illumination module is not attached to the camera/lens and I therefore wonder how you line up the slide plane with the camera imager plane to keep everything in the correct position to ensure consistent focus across the entire slide being imaged. I am guessing you have set it up on some type of rig to make the process simple and easily repeatable.

Like others here I have many slides from my film camera days, but dedicated slide scanners and flat bed scanners are just too slow to be practical for archiving my collection. Your solution sounds like a way around that, hence my interest and thanks to you for posting about your solution, plus the others who have contributed to you OP post.

My simplest setup is using the Nikon ES-1 bought used from a camera club member https://www.nikonusa.com/p/es-1-slide-copying-adapter-for-52mm-thread/3213/overview

It is 52mm thread and screws directly onto the front of my old 4/3 35mm macro lens adapted to M4/3 with an MMF-2 adapter.

Set the macro lens to about 1:2 ratio and slide the telescoping ES-1 tubes to and fro until focus and framing is correct. Some fiddling required to lens manual focus plus fiddle with ES-1 telescoping tubes to get it right. From then on it's easy. Don't use auto focus as that darn lens will do a slow AF from macro to infinity and back again a few times while it decides where to focus, use manual focus only.

 

[the bluesman]

Thank you for a really interesting post, but could you please post an image of your setup? I get the impression that the slide holder/illumination module is not attached to the camera/lens and I therefore wonder how you line up the slide plane with the camera imager plane to keep everything in the correct position to ensure consistent focus across the entire slide being imaged. I am guessing you have set it up on some type of rig to make the process simple and easily repeatable.

Like others here I have many slides from my film camera days, but dedicated slide scanners and flat bed scanners are just too slow to be practical for archiving my collection. Your solution sounds like a way around that, hence my interest and thanks to you for posting about your solution, plus the others who have contributed to you OP post.

Here is my Valoi Easy35 setup attached to my OM-1 with the 90mm Macro and the correct amount of extension Tubes for the focal range, once it's setup for Slides, 35mm or 110mm that's it, you just fire away and efficiently scan your collection, I love it and it makes me want to do some scanning unlike my Flatbed Scanner that I don't particularly like using.

I'm assuming you were asking me as Guy has a really interesting setup as well

 

[User9180204109]

Thanks Guy.

 

[User9180204109]

Thanks Bluesman.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Guy Parsons wrote:
[…]

100% busy trying to get outdoor reno and painting done before I go for cataract surgery on Tuesday. After that not sure how functional I will be until the second eye is done in early December.

I hope it goes well for you Guy.

May I ask which ‘focus’ lenses you’ve chosen - close, far, mixed (eye to eye), multi etc ?

jj

Both far. Cool with still wearing glasses for closer things. Lots of astigmatism that earlier discussions said could not be fixed but latest lens selection does fix my eyes.

I reasoned that far distance both eyes functioning well would work best for driving as that is the most hazardous thing we can do in everyday life. Eye surgeon agreed with that idea.

Left eye done Tuesday 5th, now Wednesday 6th Nov and visited surgeon to get pad off eye plus check all is OK.

First impressions, large change in white balance between the old eye and the new eye. Left eye sees white as white, right eye sees white as yellowish. In a month's time right eye will be done so then both eyes will see white as white.

Remark by surgeon, of the many eyes he has done this year, I've had the worst astigmatism. The new lens seems to have fixed it.

I removed the left lens in my glasses so now get to see reasonably well, but the poor old brain is having problems sorting out the differences and converting all that raw data to a usable image. Legally I can drive again, but I'll let my wife be the chauffeur for a more more days yet.

 

[jjbinx]

Guy Parsons wrote:
[…]

100% busy trying to get outdoor reno and painting done before I go for cataract surgery on Tuesday. After that not sure how functional I will be until the second eye is done in early December.

I hope it goes well for you Guy.

May I ask which ‘focus’ lenses you’ve chosen - close, far, mixed (eye to eye), multi etc ?

jj

Both far. Cool with still wearing glasses for closer things. Lots of astigmatism that earlier discussions said could not be fixed but latest lens selection does fix my eyes.

I reasoned that far distance both eyes functioning well would work best for driving as that is the most hazardous thing we can do in everyday life. Eye surgeon agreed with that idea.

Left eye done Tuesday 5th, now Wednesday 6th Nov and visited surgeon to get pad off eye plus check all is OK.

First impressions, large change in white balance between the old eye and the new eye. Left eye sees white as white, right eye sees white as yellowish. In a month's time right eye will be done so then both eyes will see white as white.

Remark by surgeon, of the many eyes he has done this year, I've had the worst astigmatism. The new lens seems to have fixed it.

I removed the left lens in my glasses so now get to see reasonably well, but the poor old brain is having problems sorting out the differences and converting all that raw data to a usable image. Legally I can drive again, but I'll let my wife be the chauffeur for a more more days yet.

A pity we can’t load optical correction software into our brains ;-)

jj

 

[James Stirling]

Guy Parsons wrote:
[…]

100% busy trying to get outdoor reno and painting done before I go for cataract surgery on Tuesday. After that not sure how functional I will be until the second eye is done in early December.

I hope it goes well for you Guy.

May I ask which ‘focus’ lenses you’ve chosen - close, far, mixed (eye to eye), multi etc ?

jj

Both far. Cool with still wearing glasses for closer things. Lots of astigmatism that earlier discussions said could not be fixed but latest lens selection does fix my eyes.

I reasoned that far distance both eyes functioning well would work best for driving as that is the most hazardous thing we can do in everyday life. Eye surgeon agreed with that idea.

Left eye done Tuesday 5th, now Wednesday 6th Nov and visited surgeon to get pad off eye plus check all is OK.

First impressions, large change in white balance between the old eye and the new eye. Left eye sees white as white, right eye sees white as yellowish. In a month's time right eye will be done so then both eyes will see white as white.

Remark by surgeon, of the many eyes he has done this year, I've had the worst astigmatism. The new lens seems to have fixed it.

I removed the left lens in my glasses so now get to see reasonably well, but the poor old brain is having problems sorting out the differences and converting all that raw data to a usable image. Legally I can drive again, but I'll let my wife be the chauffeur for a more more days yet.

A pity we can’t load optical correction software into our brains ;-)

jj

I am trying to find the restore to previous version option for my brain , the software is glitching of late

 

[drmarkf]

Hi all, I love scanning negatives and old slides and have done heaps of it using my old Epson V500, it was always slow and a bit tedious and the results were just okay.

I wanted something better and easier to use so I did some research and enter my new Valoi easy35, gotta say it is brilliant using it with my OM-1 and 90mm macro

The results are very sharp and it is fast and fun to use, I'm having a ball scanning all of my old negatives and loving editing them with the RAW files in LRC, I'm now searching for old Film, Negatives and slides to scan, it's amazing what appears in the viewfinder

Anyway I did a heap of old slides for a good friend's trip from 1971-72 to the Isle of Man Motorcycle races, England & India and have been blown away with the results,

This device comes very highly recommended from me if you have never seen it before, combined with a OM-1 & 90mm Macro you will have the best film scanner in the business

Here's an old slide I scanned from 1972, one of many very cool Motorcycle shots, the racing ones are gems with some good shots of Giacomo Agostini on his famous MV Agusta. I won't share those here though with respect to my mate.

Hey, I had a day at the 1971 TT!

I’ve also copied few slides from the day with an E-M1iii, Oly 30mm f3.5 and a Nikon E1 slide adapter. I’m away from home for a couple of weeks, but if I remember on my return I’ll post an image or two.

 

[Mark P Thornton]

What do you use to invert negatives and get rid of the mask?

Mark

 

[Guy Parsons]

What do you use to invert negatives and get rid of the mask?

Mark

The scan needs to also include a bit of that interframe mask to be able to select it as the thing to be removed from all images on that roll of film.

Silkypix has a one click reversal that delivers something useful but not perfect. https://silkypix.isl.co.jp/en/product/dsp11/ I found a page referring to the earlier V10 Silkypix https://silkypix.isl.co.jp/en/how-to/function/the-negative-film-inversion-tool/

I think that an old Picture Window Pro used to do reversals but can't remember how good/bad they were. https://www.dl-c.com/Downloads.html free to use but really different to use. See page 208 of the Transformations PDF. https://www.dl-c.com/Documents/Transformations.pdf

Scantips always had useful info, their page has changed a bit and doesn't seem so useful of helpful as it used to https://www.scantips.com/es-1d.html and general tips at capturing scans with a camera https://www.scantips.com/es-1.html

The problem lies with the fact that all brands of color reversal film are different and need different settings to get the results. I remember from my film days the guy at the shop used to talk about selecting the right channel for the brand and speed of colour neg film being printed.

VueScan also allows some selection of film types https://www.hamrick.com/



And if select say Fuji...



Many film scanners like my Epson V700 Photo flatbed have colour neg reversal features of being able to select which film, but not comprehensive so some experimentation would be needed if the brand is not on the list.