Negative & Slide Scanning using the OM-1

[iwaddo]

I have a Cancan FS-4000US which can scan slides, negatives and APS.

It seems to work well with Vuescan and can scan in batches automagically.

My biggest problem is getting the settings right to balance speed with output quality and then using the infrared cleaning also slows it down.

I tend to put in a strip of negatives or four slides and then get on with something else.

I only want them for use on a home digital frame so they get seen and I number them such that if I want to use one at a higher resolution for say printing I can locate it quickly to scan it again at a higher quality.

I paid to have some 8mm film converted and that was done in a Lightbox with a Panasonic camera.

 

[the bluesman]

What do you use to invert negatives and get rid of the mask?

Mark

I use Negative Lab Pro myself, works really well with Lightroom as a plug in so it keeps the work flow simple,

 

[the bluesman]

Hi all, I love scanning negatives and old slides and have done heaps of it using my old Epson V500, it was always slow and a bit tedious and the results were just okay.

I wanted something better and easier to use so I did some research and enter my new Valoi easy35, gotta say it is brilliant using it with my OM-1 and 90mm macro

The results are very sharp and it is fast and fun to use, I'm having a ball scanning all of my old negatives and loving editing them with the RAW files in LRC, I'm now searching for old Film, Negatives and slides to scan, it's amazing what appears in the viewfinder

Anyway I did a heap of old slides for a good friend's trip from 1971-72 to the Isle of Man Motorcycle races, England & India and have been blown away with the results,

This device comes very highly recommended from me if you have never seen it before, combined with a OM-1 & 90mm Macro you will have the best film scanner in the business

Here's an old slide I scanned from 1972, one of many very cool Motorcycle shots, the racing ones are gems with some good shots of Giacomo Agostini on his famous MV Agusta. I won't share those here though with respect to my mate.

Hey, I had a day at the 1971 TT!

I’ve also copied few slides from the day with an E-M1iii, Oly 30mm f3.5 and a Nikon E1 slide adapter. I’m away from home for a couple of weeks, but if I remember on my return I’ll post an image or two.

Please post a couple up, I converted a heap of my mates slides from 1971-72 Isle of Man and they are amazing shots from a great era

 

[the bluesman]

What do you use to invert negatives and get rid of the mask?

Mark

Negative Lab Pro, I use it as a Lightroom Plug in, not a bad bit of software

 

[Guy Parsons]

Left eye done Tuesday 5th, now Wednesday 6th Nov and visited surgeon to get pad off eye plus check all is OK.

First impressions, large change in white balance between the old eye and the new eye. Left eye sees white as white, right eye sees white as yellowish. In a month's time right eye will be done so then both eyes will see white as white.

Remark by surgeon, of the many eyes he has done this year, I've had the worst astigmatism. The new lens seems to have fixed it.

I removed the left lens in my glasses so now get to see reasonably well, but the poor old brain is having problems sorting out the differences and converting all that raw data to a usable image. Legally I can drive again, but I'll let my wife be the chauffeur for a more more days yet.

Eye fun.

Repaired left eye clean sight, seems bluish scenery compared to bad right eye where all is overlaid with cataract induced yellowish tinge.

Looking at scene blocking each eye in turn to see colour difference.

Both eyes open scene seems sort of midrange colouring between the two, brain merged and averaged the colouring.

Nice trick discovered, move until a vertical window bar or glass door frame bar close to me is in the middle of the scene, now everything to the left of the bar is bluish and to the right is yellowish, move my head to get the bar out of the way and it all flips back to the merged scene. Tried a few times with different windows and scenes outside and that central bar immediately fools the brain to into seeing two separate images and fails to merge the colour differences. Weird but fun discovery.

Oh well, that fun will go away when the right eye is done on Dec 3rd.

 

[jjbinx]

Left eye done Tuesday 5th, now Wednesday 6th Nov and visited surgeon to get pad off eye plus check all is OK.

First impressions, large change in white balance between the old eye and the new eye. Left eye sees white as white, right eye sees white as yellowish. In a month's time right eye will be done so then both eyes will see white as white.

Remark by surgeon, of the many eyes he has done this year, I've had the worst astigmatism. The new lens seems to have fixed it.

I removed the left lens in my glasses so now get to see reasonably well, but the poor old brain is having problems sorting out the differences and converting all that raw data to a usable image. Legally I can drive again, but I'll let my wife be the chauffeur for a more more days yet.

Eye fun.

Repaired left eye clean sight, seems bluish scenery compared to bad right eye where all is overlaid with cataract induced yellowish tinge.

Looking at scene blocking each eye in turn to see colour difference.

Both eyes open scene seems sort of midrange colouring between the two, brain merged and averaged the colouring.

Nice trick discovered, move until a vertical window bar or glass door frame bar close to me is in the middle of the scene, now everything to the left of the bar is bluish and to the right is yellowish, move my head to get the bar out of the way and it all flips back to the merged scene. Tried a few times with different windows and scenes outside and that central bar immediately fools the brain to into seeing two separate images and fails to merge the colour differences. Weird but fun discovery.

Oh well, that fun will go away when the right eye is done on Dec 3rd.

interesting to read.

with your right eye covered and viewing with just your left (prosthetic lens) which is now fixed for distance focus, how close can you see before you feel a real need to use external optics (glasses).

In bright light your aperture stops down automatically giving more DoF and at night it opens and I assume gives you less DoF so that would mean more difficulty seeing closer details such as car instrument display at night.

jj

 

[Bob Carstens]

I have a Cancan FS-4000US which can scan slides, negatives and APS.

It seems to work well with Vuescan and can scan in batches automagically.

My biggest problem is getting the settings right to balance speed with output quality and then using the infrared cleaning also slows it down.

I tend to put in a strip of negatives or four slides and then get on with something else.

I only want them for use on a home digital frame so they get seen and I number them such that if I want to use one at a higher resolution for say printing I can locate it quickly to scan it again at a higher quality.

I paid to have some 8mm film converted and that was done in a Lightbox with a Panasonic camera.

Found this tutorial online using Vuescan:

Color Negative Film Scanning Tutorial for Vuescan

 

[Guy Parsons]

Eye fun.

Repaired left eye clean sight, seems bluish scenery compared to bad right eye where all is overlaid with cataract induced yellowish tinge.

Looking at scene blocking each eye in turn to see colour difference.

Both eyes open scene seems sort of midrange colouring between the two, brain merged and averaged the colouring.

Nice trick discovered, move until a vertical window bar or glass door frame bar close to me is in the middle of the scene, now everything to the left of the bar is bluish and to the right is yellowish, move my head to get the bar out of the way and it all flips back to the merged scene. Tried a few times with different windows and scenes outside and that central bar immediately fools the brain to into seeing two separate images and fails to merge the colour differences. Weird but fun discovery.

Oh well, that fun will go away when the right eye is done on Dec 3rd.

interesting to read.

Weird effect with that central barrier. Tried it while watching TV about 9 feet away from a 43 inch screen. Held up a black remote as a central barrier and if close to the face the TV screen was averaged out OK but when I moved it a bit further, more towards arm's length suddenly I could see the flip to left side of the screen blueish and right side yellowish.

with your right eye covered and viewing with just your left (prosthetic lens) which is now fixed for distance focus, how close can you see before you feel a real need to use external optics (glasses).

Oh yes, that was the intent all along. Try and make distant good for both eyes and OK with using some aids for close. The surgeon said to go get those cheap plus 2.5 dioptre frames from a discount shop. I did find that I had a plus 3.5 pair and that when tested would be good for close up things like soldering circuits, replacing watch batteries etc.

I would expect the plus 2.5 to be good for maybe arm's length computer screen. So maybe long term get a pair of Homer Simpson half frame with open air on the top and plus 2.5 on the bottom. That would allow easy everyday activity and have the benefit of making me look more intelligent.

In bright light your aperture stops down automatically giving more DoF and at night it opens and I assume gives you less DoF so that would mean more difficulty seeing closer details such as car instrument display at night.

jj

Yes, it's all about the familiar acceptable depth of field in varying light conditions. Not thoroughly tested but my wild guess would be the fixed eye is good down to maybe half a metre and in bad light might be nearer to 2 metres. I'll jump in the car later daylight and at night to see how comfortable it would be in regard to the instruments. I fully expect to be able to see where the speed and revs are and the fuel gauge but not be able to read the digital clock or the odometer.

Meanwhile I have a letter from the surgeon stating that I no longer need glasses to drive in case I'm stopped when experimenting with glasses on/off. The official test only worries about distance vision and only needs one eye to pass the test (in NSW Ausralia).

 

[Guy Parsons]

More on the split screen colour balance fun.

Right now using a 24 inch monitor at a whisker over arms length from my face. if I hold up a black power pack (it just happened to be on the desk) and move it to and fro in the centre of my vision then even this small white patch of typing area experiences the white balance funnies from the pack being close to my face out to maybe half arms length, it then starts to fade and merge the colour balances as it gets closer to the screen.

Strongest difference in left-right white balance seen when the pack is close to the face and does fade a little as it moves from my face.

Ha! I managed to use FastStone Viewer to make a simulation of what I see...



Black rectangle represents the power pack in front of my face and only the right side of the typing window goes yellowish, the other white text to the right does not change its whiteness to yellowish.

This vision fun of course will stop when the right eye is done.

As for reading text on the screen the brain sorts it out. I'm using a pair of prescription "computer glasses" so has the massive astigmatism correction working for both eyes even though the left eye now doesn't need it. The right eye works fine for the text and the brain over-rides the bad vision now coming from the left eye due to the astigmatism corrections that are not needed there any more.

Sorry to be long-winded about these vision oddities, but I find it fascinating when discovering these weird things happening to me.

 

[Bob Carstens]

Guy, I have similar problem with my right eye. I have had both eyes done, my left eye doesn't really need glasses anymore. I use bifocals so am ok for distance & reading. My left eye is ok for computer but not the right one. I'm going try that 2.5 type for computer use. Hadn't thought of the half glass type, don't think I've see any so far. Perhaps I could remove the left lens from the 2.5 diopter frame.

--
Bob Carstens