Photobug,
[I've adapted the following text from a post I made in another
thread for a different camera. I've altered the values in the
example calculations below to suit your query regarding the D2x.]
If you really want to know when the effects of diffraction will
become "visible" in the final print, a wee bit of math will give
you the precise aperture at which this will occur. The real issue
here is whether or not the degradation caused by diffraction will
be visible in the final print.
Right away it should be obvious that this depends on how large the
spread function is at the sensor (the size of the Airy disks before
enlargement), enlargement factor (the bigger the print the more
visible will be the Airy disks), viewing distance (a print that
looks sharp at three feet can look soft at 10 inches), and the
resolving power of the human eye (somewhere between 5 and 8 lp/mm
for adults with good vision at a viewing distance of 10 inches).
Here's a simple, but accurate formula, for taking all this into
account:
At what aperture will the effects of diffraction become visible in
the final print?
Maximum N =
1 / desired print resolution / enlargement factor / 0.00135383
Let's look at using a Nikon D2X. It's sensor has a diagonal of
28.43mm. If you intend to make an 8x10 print that has a diagonal of
348.27 mm, your enlargement factor would end up being 348.27 /
28.43 = 12.25x.
Now what do you want for a desired print resolution? If you want
the print to be as sharp as any human being is capable of
appreciating at a viewing distance of 10 inches, you'll have to go
for print resolution of 8 line pairs / mm. That may be excessive in
some people's opinion, but this is entirely subjective. It's your
choice. A print that delivers only 4 lp/mm will look just as sharp
at a viewing distance of 20 inches as an 8 lp/mm print will look at
10 inches. Yoiu have to decide what viewing distance you want to
satisfy and how sharp you want it to look at that viewing distance.
For this exercise, let's assume a viewing distance of 10 inches but
let's also go with only 4 lp/mm at the print. That's about as
"soft" as I personally am willing to go. If the viewer is farther
away than 10 inches and/or simply can't focus that closely, it will
look sharper. An eagle-eyed human capable of resolving 8 lp/mm at
10 inches will be disappointed, but that's the choice I'm making.
Selecting 4 lp/mm, I'm hoping most people won't stand that close to
the print.
So here's the formula:
Maximum N =
1 / desired print resolution / enlargement factor / 0.00135383
Maximum N = 1 / 4 / 12.25 / 0.00135383 = 15.0
So, don't stop down below f/15.0 if you want to prevent
diffraction's Airy disks from preventing a resolution of 4 lp/mm in
the final print.
If the print will be viewed at 20 inches instead of 10 inches,
f/30.0 would deliver the same apparent sharpness (in terms of the
effects of diffraction). The question goes back to: At what viewing
distance do you want your prints to survive scrutiny? Your desired
resolution should fall somewhere between 5 and 8 lp/mm for a
viewing distance of 10 inches. It can fall between 2.5 and 4 lp/mm
for viewing distances no closer than 20 inches - but how are you
going to stop people from standing closer than 20 inches?
For more information see:
http://home.globalcrossing.net/~zilch0/essays.htm
Mike Davis
--
http://www.accessz.com