Hit rate with R6 Mkii

c h u n k said:

stefanik said:

R2D2 said:

stefanik said:

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

One-Shot at infinity whithout changing focus to something else. Simply retake the same shots 40 times (refocusing each time). The key point is a 35mm or less, at f8.

Click to expand...

I think what everyone is getting at, is that we could help you in a much more in-depth manner if you gave us some more information about what subject(s) you are shooting and what you are looking to achieve with this particular (R6ii + 35mm or wider) combination. Would it just be landscapes and cityscapes and/or wide-field astro (as you infer), or would you also want to shoot people, events, sports, etc at some point with this combo?

Myself, I mainly shoot events, sports, portraits, products, and video with this particular body. It's my #1 selection due primarily to the strength of its autofocus, esp with very difficult subjects and in challenging conditions. (The R5 is my birding/wildlife body, the R7 my macro body, and R6 is my backup).

The main reason I question your testing methodology here is that there would be IMHO much more valid tests (or information) that we could give you that might possibly help in your decision.

So first, if you take a look at the depth of field charts, a 35mm lens set to f/8 and infinity on a FF camera body will result in EVERYTHING being in focus from 17 feet to infinity. Or even better, if you focused on an object 17 feet away (the hyperfocal distance), then everything from 8 1/2 feet away to infinity would be in focus.

I daresay that if a camera is having trouble achieving focus with this test, then there is something else (even more nefarious) going on.

However if you want to dig deeper into the R6ii's focusing system, there have been many discussions involving more particular (focusing) situations, and I'm sure we'd all be very eager to help out with whatever questions you might have about your particular situations.

So holler away! We'd give you a proper welcome into the Forum. :-D

R2

Click to expand...

Hi, this is a very big welcome, thak you very mutch.

I know that my question seems very strange at first and, you know, i'm very happy to ear this because it means that my actual behaviour is a very strange one and not something i can expect from others brands (i'm currently Fuji).

As explained in another reply, at the moment i'm facing focusing inconsistency: i'm not confident that the shot i want to take will be in focus in AF-S. This happens mainly with WA lenses stopped down at least at 5.6 (or more) at infinity. This was reported many times in Fuji forum and Fuji released two firmware updates with the aim of address this issue. The issue is mitigated but not completely solved. Of course not all Fuji bodies seems to be affected by this, and many users reported huge improvements with latest fw updates, but not me.

To give you some numbers, if i take 40 shots with a 35mm eq lens at f8 in AF-S of a well contrasted target at infinity, i can get at worst 4/6 slightly or oof shots. To me it is not acceptable and, as worst, they came unpredictably: the first, the last or any other among the 40. I did several (trust me several) tests.

To give you an example, this is my last post on Fuji forum.

So i'm looking at some alternatives and of course Canon should be one. From this, my question here.

I'm not a professional. I like very much taking photo but I don't have a specific photo genre: i like to have family shots, sports when it happens, as street, vacation and so on. The only thing i'm looking is a camera system that can give me the confidence the shot will be taken, of course with the exclusion of user error and after a learning period (every system has it's peculiarity).

Lenses i use the most are 21, 35 and 85mm eq.

I've found the R6mkii + the 35 STM very appealing but i'm concerned about the lens AF performance.

May i ask you if you have real experience with this combo? Is it able to track, for instance, kids playing?

Thanks in advanvance

Click to expand...

R2 really did ask you specific questions for a reason. We dont know what you are trying to focus on, what you are shooting, or what mwthods you use. Generally speaking, if you are getting rid of some variables by shooting on a tripod, good light, contrasted and large subject, Canon brand RF lens, you can easily get 100% in focus exactly where you want it. You can easily get 100% handholding, in less than perfect light with the right methods as well. But....if you are trying to focus on a fly on a moving branch 10' away, you might have unrealistic expectations.

Click to expand...

Simple Coffee said:

Simple Coffee said:

drsnoopy wrote:
PDAF has difficulty with horizontal lines - so it’s choosing a slightly different AF point each time.

Click to expand...

THANK YOU!! This may well explain something that I have experienced that seemed insanely odd: the inability of my R6m2 in spot focus to correctly select the (to me) obvious bird feeder against a completely differently colored, and not busy, background. The feeder is tube shaped, vertically oriented, and camera even sometimes puts a box around it, but likes to usually put the whole scene out of focus. Not that I often take pictures of feeder, but use it to try to at least be focused on where birds will hopefully be.

It at least gives me something to look for when having focusing issues, which is helpful.

Click to expand...

ThrillaMozilla said:

Simple Coffee said:

ThrillaMozilla said:

drsnoopy wrote:
PDAF has difficulty with horizontal lines - so it’s choosing a slightly different AF point each time.

Click to expand...

THANK YOU!! This may well explain something that I have experienced that seemed insanely odd: the inability of my R6m2 in spot focus to correctly select the (to me) obvious bird feeder against a completely differently colored, and not busy, background. The feeder is tube shaped, vertically oriented, and camera even sometimes puts a box around it, but likes to usually put the whole scene out of focus. Not that I often take pictures of feeder, but use it to try to at least be focused on where birds will hopefully be.

It at least gives me something to look for when having focusing issues, which is helpful.

Click to expand...

Um, no. The cameras cannot focus on horizontal lines. The sides of your feeder are vertical lines.

Click to expand...

ThrillaMozilla said:

I guess your camera selected the background instead of the side of the tube to focus on. For that problem you need to prefocus at the approximate distance of the feeder.

Click to expand...

ThrillaMozilla said:

Simple Coffee said:

ThrillaMozilla said:

drsnoopy wrote:
PDAF has difficulty with horizontal lines - so it’s choosing a slightly different AF point each time.

Click to expand...

THANK YOU!! This may well explain something that I have experienced that seemed insanely odd: the inability of my R6m2 in spot focus to correctly select the (to me) obvious bird feeder against a completely differently colored, and not busy, background. The feeder is tube shaped, vertically oriented, and camera even sometimes puts a box around it, but likes to usually put the whole scene out of focus. Not that I often take pictures of feeder, but use it to try to at least be focused on where birds will hopefully be.

It at least gives me something to look for when having focusing issues, which is helpful.

Click to expand...

Um, no. The cameras cannot focus on horizontal lines. The sides of your feeder are vertical lines. I guess your camera selected the background instead of the side of the tube to focus on. For that problem you need to prefocus at the approximate distance of the feeder.

Click to expand...

Migralda said:

I recently switched from Fuji (XT4 and XH2) over to Canon (R6mk11) due to the number of missed focus shots.

I find the Canon autofocus far superior and I'm sorry I spent so much time and money on Fuji.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

Thanks

Click to expand...

JohnSil said:

stefanik said:

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Stefanic, I know that Alastair already did the static test. As I would suspect that should be a pretty much 100% hit rate.

Let me share my real world experience. I'm shooting with an R5 and the 6ll is supposed to be a bit better at AF. BUT with an R5 I shoot a lot of bicycle racing. I shoot always on Servo BUT my experience is that I get better more reliable AF hit rate if I do a full press as you describe so the camera re-locks focus on every shot than if I lock the focus then just let the camera rip. I find just letting the servo take orver more unreliable. To often the camera will lock onto something that's high contrast and it stays there or it locks on nothing at all. My subjects are usually between 20-5 feet away and coming straight at me at between 10-30mph so they are very difficult shots from the get-go.

I'm not complaining because every iteration of the cameras get better and better. I've been through the 1Dx's etc and they have all done what I'm describing but the R5 is the best I've used so far. If the R1 is high mp I will probably get it, otherwise I will move to an R5ll!

John

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

Migralda said:

I recently switched from Fuji (XT4 and XH2) over to Canon (R6mk11) due to the number of missed focus shots.

I find the Canon autofocus far superior and I'm sorry I spent so much time and money on Fuji.

Click to expand...

Very informative experience, thanks. I know you are not the only one (shame)!

Do you know if an R6mkii with a 35 1.8 STM is a combo whit which i can handle, for example, kids playing? Is the 35mm reasonably fast in focusing or it is better to look at something else due tue its slow STM motors? I know, USM and L lenses are better but also waaaay more epensive. Looking at some reviews i can say yes it could handle, but users words are best!

Uhm ... this doesn't looks promising!

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

drsnoopy said:

stefanik said:

cnyphotoguy said:

stefanik said:

Of course this is only a test in order to judge the consistency of the focus system on a controlled target, nothing related to real life shooting experience.

How reliable is the R6Mkii AF system on these situation?

Click to expand...

Genuinely curious what value there is to set up such a test if you acknowledge that it's not that useful.

Click to expand...

Sure I've presented the question in the wrong way.

Generally i don't go out taking 40 shots of the same target but at the same time i'm concerned about the ability of an AF sytem to be trusted when it says ok your (static) target is in focus but it is not!

How do you test this ability?

With my actual equipment i take 4/6 oof shots on a series of 40 on those condition and in fact when i shoot in real life i'm not confident the target will be in focus, so my question.

Click to expand...

And what equipment are you using? What do you think is the problem? All I can say is my R5 seems very consistent indeed. But I use BBF or on-screen touch focus, which means the focus distance stays where I put it, almost like MF. Using the shutter button for AF is a different issue, as you are re-focusing each time.

Click to expand...

At the moment i have Fuji and there are some threads reporting this inconsistency with AF-S

Click to expand...

ThrillaMozilla said:

stefanik said:

Migralda said:

I recently switched from Fuji (XT4 and XH2) over to Canon (R6mk11) due to the number of missed focus shots.

I find the Canon autofocus far superior and I'm sorry I spent so much time and money on Fuji.

Click to expand...

Very informative experience, thanks. I know you are not the only one (shame)!

Do you know if an R6mkii with a 35 1.8 STM is a combo whit which i can handle, for example, kids playing? Is the 35mm reasonably fast in focusing or it is better to look at something else due tue its slow STM motors? I know, USM and L lenses are better but also waaaay more epensive. Looking at some reviews i can say yes it could handle, but users words are best!

Uhm ... this doesn't looks promising!

Click to expand...

Are you joking? I took hundreds, or maybe thousands of pictures of children playing, with this. If you can't get good pictures with an R6 II, you're incompetent. It's a fabulous camera.

I certainly would not use a 35 mm prime as my only lens, however. For children, get a normal zoom. For low light baby pictures, maybe a 50/1.8.

Click to expand...

ThrillaMozilla said:

stefanik said:

Migralda said:

I recently switched from Fuji (XT4 and XH2) over to Canon (R6mk11) due to the number of missed focus shots.

I find the Canon autofocus far superior and I'm sorry I spent so much time and money on Fuji.

Click to expand...

Very informative experience, thanks. I know you are not the only one (shame)!

Do you know if an R6mkii with a 35 1.8 STM is a combo whit which i can handle, for example, kids playing? Is the 35mm reasonably fast in focusing or it is better to look at something else due tue its slow STM motors? I know, USM and L lenses are better but also waaaay more epensive. Looking at some reviews i can say yes it could handle, but users words are best!

Uhm ... this doesn't looks promising!

Click to expand...

Are you joking? I took hundreds, or maybe thousands of pictures of children playing, with this. If you can't get good pictures with an R6 II, you're incompetent. It's a fabulous camera.

I certainly would not use a 35 mm prime as my only lens, however. For children, get a normal zoom. For low light baby pictures, maybe a 50/1.8.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

ThrillaMozilla said:

stefanik said:

Migralda said:

I recently switched from Fuji (XT4 and XH2) over to Canon (R6mk11) due to the number of missed focus shots.

I find the Canon autofocus far superior and I'm sorry I spent so much time and money on Fuji.

Click to expand...

Very informative experience, thanks. I know you are not the only one (shame)!

Do you know if an R6mkii with a 35 1.8 STM is a combo whit which i can handle, for example, kids playing? Is the 35mm reasonably fast in focusing or it is better to look at something else due tue its slow STM motors? I know, USM and L lenses are better but also waaaay more epensive. Looking at some reviews i can say yes it could handle, but users words are best!

Uhm ... this doesn't looks promising!

Click to expand...

Are you joking? I took hundreds, or maybe thousands of pictures of children playing, with this. If you can't get good pictures with an R6 II, you're incompetent. It's a fabulous camera.

I certainly would not use a 35 mm prime as my only lens, however. For children, get a normal zoom. For low light baby pictures, maybe a 50/1.8.

Click to expand...

LOL, anyway, nice to meet you too!

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

R2D2 said:

stefanik said:

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

One-Shot at infinity whithout changing focus to something else. Simply retake the same shots 40 times (refocusing each time). The key point is a 35mm or less, at f8.

Click to expand...

I think what everyone is getting at, is that we could help you in a much more in-depth manner if you gave us some more information about what subject(s) you are shooting and what you are looking to achieve with this particular (R6ii + 35mm or wider) combination. Would it just be landscapes and cityscapes and/or wide-field astro (as you infer), or would you also want to shoot people, events, sports, etc at some point with this combo?

Myself, I mainly shoot events, sports, portraits, products, and video with this particular body. It's my #1 selection due primarily to the strength of its autofocus, esp with very difficult subjects and in challenging conditions. (The R5 is my birding/wildlife body, the R7 my macro body, and R6 is my backup).

The main reason I question your testing methodology here is that there would be IMHO much more valid tests (or information) that we could give you that might possibly help in your decision.

So first, if you take a look at the depth of field charts, a 35mm lens set to f/8 and infinity on a FF camera body will result in EVERYTHING being in focus from 17 feet to infinity. Or even better, if you focused on an object 17 feet away (the hyperfocal distance), then everything from 8 1/2 feet away to infinity would be in focus.

I daresay that if a camera is having trouble achieving focus with this test, then there is something else (even more nefarious) going on.

However if you want to dig deeper into the R6ii's focusing system, there have been many discussions involving more particular (focusing) situations, and I'm sure we'd all be very eager to help out with whatever questions you might have about your particular situations.

So holler away! We'd give you a proper welcome into the Forum. :-D

R2

Click to expand...

Hi, this is a very big welcome, thak you very mutch.

I know that my question seems very strange at first and, you know, i'm very happy to ear this because it means that my actual behaviour is a very strange one and not something i can expect from others brands (i'm currently Fuji).

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

As explained in another reply, at the moment i'm facing focusing inconsistency: i'm not confident that the shot i want to take will be in focus in AF-S. This happens mainly with WA lenses stopped down at least at 5.6 (or more) at infinity. This was reported many times in Fuji forum and Fuji released two firmware updates with the aim of address this issue. The issue is mitigated but not completely solved. Of course not all Fuji bodies seems to be affected by this, and many users reported huge improvements with latest fw updates, but not me.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

To give you some numbers, if i take 40 shots with a 35mm eq lens at f8 in AF-S of a well contrasted target at infinity, i can get at worst 4/6 slightly or oof shots. To me it is not acceptable and, as worst, they came unpredictably: the first, the last or any other among the 40. I did several (trust me several) tests.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

To give you an example, this is my last post on Fuji forum.

So i'm looking at some alternatives and of course Canon should be one. From this, my question here.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

I'm not a professional. I like very much taking photo but I don't have a specific photo genre: i like to have family shots, sports when it happens, as street, vacation and so on.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

The only thing i'm looking is a camera system that can give me the confidence the shot will be taken, of course with the exclusion of user error and after a learning period (every system has it's peculiarity).

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

Lenses i use the most are 21, 35 and 85mm eq.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

I've found the R6mkii + the 35 STM very appealing but i'm concerned about the lens AF performance.

May i ask you if you have real experience with this combo? Is it able to track, for instance, kids playing?

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

Thanks in advanvance

Click to expand...

John Photo said:

stefanik said:

drsnoopy said:

stefanik said:

cnyphotoguy said:

stefanik said:

Of course this is only a test in order to judge the consistency of the focus system on a controlled target, nothing related to real life shooting experience.

How reliable is the R6Mkii AF system on these situation?

Click to expand...

Genuinely curious what value there is to set up such a test if you acknowledge that it's not that useful.

Click to expand...

Sure I've presented the question in the wrong way.

Generally i don't go out taking 40 shots of the same target but at the same time i'm concerned about the ability of an AF sytem to be trusted when it says ok your (static) target is in focus but it is not!

How do you test this ability?

With my actual equipment i take 4/6 oof shots on a series of 40 on those condition and in fact when i shoot in real life i'm not confident the target will be in focus, so my question.

Click to expand...

And what equipment are you using? What do you think is the problem? All I can say is my R5 seems very consistent indeed. But I use BBF or on-screen touch focus, which means the focus distance stays where I put it, almost like MF. Using the shutter button for AF is a different issue, as you are re-focusing each time.

Click to expand...

At the moment i have Fuji and there are some threads reporting this inconsistency with AF-S

Click to expand...

Your question and "test" make some sense to me. The info you mentioned is that you get maybe 4-6 oof in 40 attempts. On average, that is 1 in 8 oof. The unknown is when in the 40 shots those oof shots will occur: will it be the first shot, the second, etc, etc? If you take only one shot, will it be a keeper or is it one of the 1-in-8 oof? What if you take two shots, any better? Roll the dice, or take a bunch and sort.

There are a number of factors (settings, technique, etc) that could yield good (or bad) results frame to frame.

Click to expand...

R2D2 said:

stefanik said:

R2D2 said:

stefanik said:

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

One-Shot at infinity whithout changing focus to something else. Simply retake the same shots 40 times (refocusing each time). The key point is a 35mm or less, at f8.

Click to expand...

I think what everyone is getting at, is that we could help you in a much more in-depth manner if you gave us some more information about what subject(s) you are shooting and what you are looking to achieve with this particular (R6ii + 35mm or wider) combination. Would it just be landscapes and cityscapes and/or wide-field astro (as you infer), or would you also want to shoot people, events, sports, etc at some point with this combo?

Myself, I mainly shoot events, sports, portraits, products, and video with this particular body. It's my #1 selection due primarily to the strength of its autofocus, esp with very difficult subjects and in challenging conditions. (The R5 is my birding/wildlife body, the R7 my macro body, and R6 is my backup).

The main reason I question your testing methodology here is that there would be IMHO much more valid tests (or information) that we could give you that might possibly help in your decision.

So first, if you take a look at the depth of field charts, a 35mm lens set to f/8 and infinity on a FF camera body will result in EVERYTHING being in focus from 17 feet to infinity. Or even better, if you focused on an object 17 feet away (the hyperfocal distance), then everything from 8 1/2 feet away to infinity would be in focus.

I daresay that if a camera is having trouble achieving focus with this test, then there is something else (even more nefarious) going on.

However if you want to dig deeper into the R6ii's focusing system, there have been many discussions involving more particular (focusing) situations, and I'm sure we'd all be very eager to help out with whatever questions you might have about your particular situations.

So holler away! We'd give you a proper welcome into the Forum. :-D

R2

Click to expand...

Hi, this is a very big welcome, thak you very mutch.

I know that my question seems very strange at first and, you know, i'm very happy to ear this because it means that my actual behaviour is a very strange one and not something i can expect from others brands (i'm currently Fuji).

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for getting back. I peeked at the Fuji forum a little and now understand your situation a bit more!

R2D2 said:

As explained in another reply, at the moment i'm facing focusing inconsistency: i'm not confident that the shot i want to take will be in focus in AF-S. This happens mainly with WA lenses stopped down at least at 5.6 (or more) at infinity. This was reported many times in Fuji forum and Fuji released two firmware updates with the aim of address this issue. The issue is mitigated but not completely solved. Of course not all Fuji bodies seems to be affected by this, and many users reported huge improvements with latest fw updates, but not me.

Click to expand...

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

Click to expand...

R2D2 said:

R2D2 said:

To give you some numbers, if i take 40 shots with a 35mm eq lens at f8 in AF-S of a well contrasted target at infinity, i can get at worst 4/6 slightly or oof shots. To me it is not acceptable and, as worst, they came unpredictably: the first, the last or any other among the 40. I did several (trust me several) tests.

Click to expand...

Yikes!

R2D2 said:

To give you an example, this is my last post on Fuji forum.

So i'm looking at some alternatives and of course Canon should be one. From this, my question here.

Click to expand...

Yeah, honestly we're used to such outstanding autofocus around here (shooting in general everyday situations) that your query just came across as a bit odd. But now that you've explained further, it's entirely understandable.

R2D2 said:

I'm not a professional. I like very much taking photo but I don't have a specific photo genre: i like to have family shots, sports when it happens, as street, vacation and so on.

Click to expand...

OK, general everyday stuff that most everybody likes to shoot.

Well, IMHO you're in for a treat with the R6ii.

But before we get ahead of ourselves, I'd highly recommend trying one out in person, as its ergo and operation are waaay different than what you're used to with Fuji. Make sure it'd be a good fit first.

R2D2 said:

The only thing i'm looking is a camera system that can give me the confidence the shot will be taken, of course with the exclusion of user error and after a learning period (every system has it's peculiarity).

Click to expand...

Today I was out with our advertising team shooting cyclists (stills and video), and the only OOF shots (out of some 2000+) were my fault. The result of bad aim on my part. OTOH I have full confidence in the camera.

R2D2 said:

Lenses i use the most are 21, 35 and 85mm eq.

Click to expand...

Both the RF primes and zooms are excellent focusers.

R2D2 said:

I've found the R6mkii + the 35 STM very appealing but i'm concerned about the lens AF performance.

May i ask you if you have real experience with this combo? Is it able to track, for instance, kids playing?

Click to expand...

The RF 35mm STM is a brilliant performer. Easily my favorite RF STM prime (I have the 16, 35, 50, and 85). One of my co-workers actually shoots auto racing with the 35 STM, from right next to the track! It has no problem focusing and tracking.

Highly recommend this lens.

R2D2 said:

Thanks in advanvance

Click to expand...

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

R2D2 said:

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

Click to expand...

The biggest part of fuji users doesn't report this issue and i'm very happy for them because is a fantastic system but there are some (like me) experiancing it through different models. They released two firmware updates, so i'm not talking about gosts! The H2s (withous this issue) is a fantastic camera.

Click to expand...

stefanik said:

stefanik said:

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

Click to expand...

I had the chance to try an R6mkii + 35 this morning, and i bought them

Thanks very much for your suggestions

Click to expand...

R2D2 said:

stefanik said:

R2D2 said:

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

Click to expand...

The biggest part of fuji users doesn't report this issue and i'm very happy for them because is a fantastic system but there are some (like me) experiancing it through different models. They released two firmware updates, so i'm not talking about gosts! The H2s (withous this issue) is a fantastic camera.

Click to expand...

I have a good friend (pro) who shoots Canon for work, but has a nice (extensive) Fuji system for when he travels. He likes the size and form factor. I've tried a number of his bodies over the years and the thing that always stuck out to me was the sketchy autofocus. That, and the fact that I could never get along with the ergo (but the latter a person can eventually adapt to at least).

R2D2 said:

R2D2 said:

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

Click to expand...

I had the chance to try an R6mkii + 35 this morning, and i bought them

Thanks very much for your suggestions

Click to expand...

Awesome! Big congrats on the fine purchase!

Now you just have to set up the focus to accommodate your style!

Do you use the shutter button for focusing, and have you ever tried the back button(s) for this?

I take focus off the shutter button completely and set the AF-On button for Face/Eye/Subject Detect, and the * button for Spot AF (both are set for servo, which I think is AF-C in Fuji-speak). Lifting your thumb off the button then stops the AF when desired.

Note: when customizing the buttons, be sure to press the "Info" button when prompted, which takes you to another page of AF customizations (you must select your choices and also checkmark them!).

The entire menu is in Canon-speak, so it'd be best to watch a few YouTube setup videos for starters. Best of luck, and holler back with any questions!

Enjoy your new kit!

R2


R6ii autofocus during a bike race (with RF 28-70).


R6ii in the field (with RF 800/11). 100% crop, click on "original size"


R6ii BIF (with RF 800/11).

Samples provided to whet your appetite! :-D

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stefanik said:

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

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