Hit rate with R6 Mkii

[stefanik]

Hi all,

i'm tempted by an R6Mkii but i have a question: with a 35mm (or less) at f8 if you take a sequence of 40 pictures on a far static subject (always the same) in Spot AF, which is your hit rate? How mutch of the 40 are oof or slightly oof?

I mean half press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo then from the beginning: press the shutter, acquire the focus, full press, take the photo and so on 40 times.

Thanks

 

[Zeee]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

Eye detect is amazing. Aside from programming all you need to do is to learn how to control your camera using the pre-focus technique. This was developed by users and it lets you take over when the system is not cooperating and get it to focus in the subject/eye you want.

 

[stefanik]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

Eye detect is amazing. Aside from programming all you need to do is to learn how to control your camera using the pre-focus technique. This was developed by users and it lets you take over when the system is not cooperating and get it to focus in the subject/eye you want.

Could you elaborate a bit? Dou you have links?

 

[stefanik]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

user manual is quite big indeed ... damn it

 

[stefanik]

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

The biggest part of fuji users doesn't report this issue and i'm very happy for them because is a fantastic system but there are some (like me) experiancing it through different models. They released two firmware updates, so i'm not talking about gosts! The H2s (withous this issue) is a fantastic camera.

I have a good friend (pro) who shoots Canon for work, but has a nice (extensive) Fuji system for when he travels. He likes the size and form factor. I've tried a number of his bodies over the years and the thing that always stuck out to me was the sketchy autofocus. That, and the fact that I could never get along with the ergo (but the latter a person can eventually adapt to at least).

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

I had the chance to try an R6mkii + 35 this morning, and i bought them

Thanks very much for your suggestions

Awesome! Big congrats on the fine purchase!

Now you just have to set up the focus to accommodate your style!

Do you use the shutter button for focusing, and have you ever tried the back button(s) for this?

I take focus off the shutter button completely and set the AF-On button for Face/Eye/Subject Detect, and the * button for Spot AF (both are set for servo, which I think is AF-C in Fuji-speak). Lifting your thumb off the button then stops the AF when desired.

Note: when customizing the buttons, be sure to press the "Info" button when prompted, which takes you to another page of AF customizations (you must select your choices and also checkmark them!).

The entire menu is in Canon-speak, so it'd be best to watch a few YouTube setup videos for starters. Best of luck, and holler back with any questions!

Enjoy your new kit!

R2


R6ii autofocus during a bike race (with RF 28-70).


R6ii in the field (with RF 800/11). 100% crop, click on "original size"


R6ii BIF (with RF 800/11).

Samples provided to whet your appetite! :-D

I can vouch for R2D2 being a good resource of this forum. R2s enthusiasm, as well as others like Alastair Norcross, for the R6m2 is certainly an inspiration to me to not give up on it rashly! When people who have used a lot of different cameras say things like the R6 Mark II is incredible (I think R2D2 has said) and the best camera they've ever owned (I think Alastair has said), it means something. Since this is my first time owning an ILC, all I have to compare it to are my expectations.

This particular thread is pertinent because Fuji's X-H2 and X-H2S were two very likely replacements for my R6m2, so it's interesting to hear from someone moving the other direction, especially since autofocus was one of my main deciding factors.

My experiance with Fuji is biases by the issue i had: simply no more acceptable for me. THERE ARE WORKAROUNDS, i know, but i was not willing to adopt them any more. This is my last reply about it. if you don't use WA lenses ( <= 35mm eq) you'll probably never will be bored by this issue (it effect only WA lenses stopped down to at least f5.6 at medium, long distances).

That said, H2 and H2s are two very capable cameras: very (very) well built, the first if you need more resolution, the latter for action (anyway resolution was enought for me). Even with the issue i've found, i can say that with the proper settings (like these) and lens (like mine 23 wr), expecially with the H2s, you can reach a respectable hit rate.

About resolution, unless you have already read it, i suggest you to look at this thread.

I can say for sure that without the issue i would have stayed in Fuji but this is a (very) personal statement.

 

[stefanik]

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

The biggest part of fuji users doesn't report this issue and i'm very happy for them because is a fantastic system but there are some (like me) experiancing it through different models. They released two firmware updates, so i'm not talking about gosts! The H2s (withous this issue) is a fantastic camera.

I have a good friend (pro) who shoots Canon for work, but has a nice (extensive) Fuji system for when he travels. He likes the size and form factor. I've tried a number of his bodies over the years and the thing that always stuck out to me was the sketchy autofocus. That, and the fact that I could never get along with the ergo (but the latter a person can eventually adapt to at least).

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

I had the chance to try an R6mkii + 35 this morning, and i bought them

Thanks very much for your suggestions

Awesome! Big congrats on the fine purchase!

Now you just have to set up the focus to accommodate your style!

Do you use the shutter button for focusing, and have you ever tried the back button(s) for this?

yes, on my previous body i've used it

I take focus off the shutter button completely and set the AF-On button for Face/Eye/Subject Detect, and the * button for Spot AF (both are set for servo, which I think is AF-C in Fuji-speak). Lifting your thumb off the button then stops the AF when desired.

i'm plying a bit with these configurations.

At the moment i have DOF button to OneShot <-> AIServo, AF-On on Eye AF and * on AF zones switch. Main shutter button to AF without any face/whatever recognition.

Let me ask: is there any possibility to change the flexy zone size rather than pressing + button and RATE button. I mean, if i assign + to something else how can i change the flexi zones size? Sorry but i've not read yet the entire manual, only some casual tests!

Note: when customizing the buttons, be sure to press the "Info" button when prompted, which takes you to another page of AF customizations (you must select your choices and also checkmark them!).

The entire menu is in Canon-speak, so it'd be best to watch a few YouTube setup videos for starters. Best of luck, and holler back with any questions!

Enjoy your new kit!

R2


R6ii autofocus during a bike race (with RF 28-70).


R6ii in the field (with RF 800/11). 100% crop, click on "original size"


R6ii BIF (with RF 800/11).

Samples provided to whet your appetite! :-D

very good examples, thanks!

 

[Simple Coffee]

I didn't realize Fuji was still having AF problems of that magnitude. Not being able to trust the camera's focus would be untenable for me. I can see why you're looking around.

The biggest part of fuji users doesn't report this issue and i'm very happy for them because is a fantastic system but there are some (like me) experiancing it through different models. They released two firmware updates, so i'm not talking about gosts! The H2s (withous this issue) is a fantastic camera.

I have a good friend (pro) who shoots Canon for work, but has a nice (extensive) Fuji system for when he travels. He likes the size and form factor. I've tried a number of his bodies over the years and the thing that always stuck out to me was the sketchy autofocus. That, and the fact that I could never get along with the ergo (but the latter a person can eventually adapt to at least).

Glad to help. Holler if you'd like more recommendations!

R2

I had the chance to try an R6mkii + 35 this morning, and i bought them

Thanks very much for your suggestions

Awesome! Big congrats on the fine purchase!

Now you just have to set up the focus to accommodate your style!

Do you use the shutter button for focusing, and have you ever tried the back button(s) for this?

I take focus off the shutter button completely and set the AF-On button for Face/Eye/Subject Detect, and the * button for Spot AF (both are set for servo, which I think is AF-C in Fuji-speak). Lifting your thumb off the button then stops the AF when desired.

Note: when customizing the buttons, be sure to press the "Info" button when prompted, which takes you to another page of AF customizations (you must select your choices and also checkmark them!).

The entire menu is in Canon-speak, so it'd be best to watch a few YouTube setup videos for starters. Best of luck, and holler back with any questions!

Enjoy your new kit!

R2


R6ii autofocus during a bike race (with RF 28-70).


R6ii in the field (with RF 800/11). 100% crop, click on "original size"


R6ii BIF (with RF 800/11).

Samples provided to whet your appetite! :-D

I can vouch for R2D2 being a good resource of this forum. R2s enthusiasm, as well as others like Alastair Norcross, for the R6m2 is certainly an inspiration to me to not give up on it rashly! When people who have used a lot of different cameras say things like the R6 Mark II is incredible (I think R2D2 has said) and the best camera they've ever owned (I think Alastair has said), it means something. Since this is my first time owning an ILC, all I have to compare it to are my expectations.

This particular thread is pertinent because Fuji's X-H2 and X-H2S were two very likely replacements for my R6m2, so it's interesting to hear from someone moving the other direction, especially since autofocus was one of my main deciding factors.

My experiance with Fuji is biases by the issue i had: simply no more acceptable for me. THERE ARE WORKAROUNDS, i know, but i was not willing to adopt them any more. This is my last reply about it. if you don't use WA lenses ( <= 35mm eq) you'll probably never will be bored by this issue (it effect only WA lenses stopped down to at least f5.6 at medium, long distances).

That said, H2 and H2s are two very capable cameras: very (very) well built, the first if you need more resolution, the latter for action (anyway resolution was enought for me). Even with the issue i've found, i can say that with the proper settings (like these) and lens (like mine 23 wr), expecially with the H2s, you can reach a respectable hit rate.

About resolution, unless you have already read it, i suggest you to look at this thread.

I can say for sure that without the issue i would have stayed in Fuji but this is a (very) personal statement.

Appreciate the links and insights!

And I can relate on the last line of your post about how much money you have in the gear. I know what I've spent is less than other people, but if it's a lot to me, that's going to shade my demands that it lives up its capabilities, though, of course, tempered by my experience level.

 

[Zeee]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

Eye detect is amazing. Aside from programming all you need to do is to learn how to control your camera using the pre-focus technique. This was developed by users and it lets you take over when the system is not cooperating and get it to focus in the subject/eye you want.

Could you elaborate a bit? Dou you have links?

Since it is not an actual documented method by Canon there are no specific links. Jan Wegener uses it in some of his videos and I'll try to find one.

My favourite is a Sony and R3 shootout which changed everything for me. It's an R3 but it's all the same. You set your camera the way you would normally focus using Eye Detect. Then you map button that will drop Eye Detect and go into one of the traditional AF modes. Once AF on the subject in acquired then you release that button that will put the camera back in Eye Detect.

Note: When use this method you don't need to try and focus on the eye. That is the cameras job. All you need to do is get your subject in focus so whatever point/s can land anywhere on it. When you go back into Eye Detect the system will do its job.

Pay close attention to the Canon clips from about minutes 3 to 6. At about 3:10 is a perfect example. See how the Fro uses Expansion AF to override Eye Detect. I was never a fan of expansion AF. I used Single point AF but these days I mostly use Zone if I can. The more AF points working for me the better. I can switch to another AF mode if the Zone array is too big. Others like to use Spot Focus but for that purpose it does not have enough AF area coverage for me.

 

[Zeee]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

Eye detect is amazing. Aside from programming all you need to do is to learn how to control your camera using the pre-focus technique. This was developed by users and it lets you take over when the system is not cooperating and get it to focus in the subject/eye you want.

Could you elaborate a bit? Dou you have links?

Since it is not an actual documented method by Canon there are no specific links. Jan Wegener uses it in some of his videos and I'll try to find one.

My favourite is a Sony and R3 shootout which changed everything for me. It's an R3 but it's all the same. You set your camera the way you would normally focus using Eye Detect. Then you map button that will drop Eye Detect and go into one of the traditional AF modes. Once AF on the subject in acquired then you release that button that will put the camera back in Eye Detect.

Note: When use this method you don't need to try and focus on the eye. That is the cameras job. All you need to do is get your subject in focus so whatever point/s can land anywhere on it. When you go back into Eye Detect the system will do its job.

Pay close attention to the Canon clips from about minutes 3 to 6. At about 3:10 is a perfect example. See how the Fro uses Expansion AF to override Eye Detect. I was never a fan of expansion AF. I used Single point AF but these days I mostly use Zone if I can. The more AF points working for me the better. I can switch to another AF mode if the Zone array is too big. Others like to use Spot Focus but for that purpose it does not have enough AF area coverage for me.

R7 but again it's all the same. I have both the R6II and the R7 and use both the same way.

Start at 10:14. At 10:22 the AF point is no where near the bird. At 10:23 he puts the Spot AF point on the "body" of the bird to get it in focus. Not the eye. Then he goes back into Eye AF.

Personally I would be using Single point AF because the AF area is bigger so the camera has more contrast to work with. As I said even Zone AF can work surprisingly well. You can decide what works best for you if you want to give it a try.

 

[Zeee]

I hope i've solved my problem: i've just bought an R6mkii with a 35 1.8

Finger crossed

Now you're in for it. Of course we neglected to tell you that now you have to devote your life to learning how to use it.

Eye detect is amazing. Aside from programming all you need to do is to learn how to control your camera using the pre-focus technique. This was developed by users and it lets you take over when the system is not cooperating and get it to focus in the subject/eye you want.

Could you elaborate a bit? Dou you have links?

Since it is not an actual documented method by Canon there are no specific links. Jan Wegener uses it in some of his videos and I'll try to find one.

My favourite is a Sony and R3 shootout which changed everything for me. It's an R3 but it's all the same. You set your camera the way you would normally focus using Eye Detect. Then you map button that will drop Eye Detect and go into one of the traditional AF modes. Once AF on the subject in acquired then you release that button that will put the camera back in Eye Detect.

Note: When use this method you don't need to try and focus on the eye. That is the cameras job. All you need to do is get your subject in focus so whatever point/s can land anywhere on it. When you go back into Eye Detect the system will do its job.

Pay close attention to the Canon clips from about minutes 3 to 6. At about 3:10 is a perfect example. See how the Fro uses Expansion AF to override Eye Detect. I was never a fan of expansion AF. I used Single point AF but these days I mostly use Zone if I can. The more AF points working for me the better. I can switch to another AF mode if the Zone array is too big. Others like to use Spot Focus but for that purpose it does not have enough AF area coverage for me.

R7 but again it's all the same. I have both the R6II and the R7 and use both the same way.

Start at 10:14. At 10:22 the AF point is no where near the bird. At 10:23 he puts the Spot AF point on the "body" of the bird to get it in focus. Not the eye. Then he goes back into Eye AF.

Personally I would be using Single point AF because the AF area is bigger so the camera has more contrast to work with. As I said even Zone AF can work surprisingly well. You can decide what works best for you if you want to give it a try.

I should point out that I only use that technique if I need to. I start out with Eye Detect and most of the time the system works just fine. I paid a lot of money for ML bodies so they do the work for me. Some like to start out with a traditional AF mode and then switch to Eye Detect.

Either way it is good technique to have in your hip pocket when the system is not cooperating. I don't care or waste time trying to figure out why sometimes the system does not get it right. As long as I'm using the available tools correctly. I expect it fail now and then. I just keep moving on.