IMPORTANT TIP! Is it actually clogged?

One point I have meant to post but somehow never have before is important because it could save many people lots of frustrating hours trying to clean "clogged nozzles" that actually are not clogged! PLUS, of course, save them sending lots of expensive ink into the waste pad - or bottle (even compatible inks are still expensive, despite being relatively cheap compared to OEM ones).

So, "what's it all abaht, Alfie?" Wot iz E goin on abaht? ;-)

Consider this. Many perform regular nozzle checks (or not so regular from many postings about clearing clogged nozzles!) and seeing poor nozzle check printouts then go through many ink-wasting cleans, followed by disappointing nozzle checks after each clean, to then post queries on this forum about how best to resolve the problem.

Sounds logical, doesn't it! However, there may actually be no clogging at all. In other words, it could well be (as I have found over many years) that it is the nozzle check printout that is faulty, for some unknown reason (well, unknown to me and I'm not daft - well, not on a casual glance anyway).

Can I instead suggest the following procedure instead to try for a proper way to see if there really is any clogging. You will basically need a Purge File, containing - on an A4 sheet - vertical strips of the colours of the inks in your specific printer, generally available with the strips being about 1" wide and going down most of the A4 page. However, printing that is also wasteful of ink, so open the file (yes, I will say where to get some in a minute) in such as PhotoShop or whatever you use and crop so that you only have about 3" depth of the stripes (columns of colours) and save that as your purge file to use.

A good source of such files is the MIS website in USA. http://inksupply.helpserve.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=12&nav=0

They provide free download of a zip file with different purge files for different printers, so you can unzip and find one that has the necessary number of inks to suit your printer, so thanks is due to them for such a useful service.

Now, when you print the appropriate file (and clearly, you only need the one to suit your printer - or printers if you have more than one model with different numbers of inks) make sure you use the following settings via the Printer Properties dialogue box.

First, use A4 office type plain paper BUT set as though using a photo type paper, like say Epson Glossy. If an Epson printer, also make sure you select the type of quality as Best Photo. This way you are asking the printer to print the purge file as though wanting the highest photo quality on good photo glossy paper - even though you are only in fact using plain office paper.

Now, to summarise, I have found on many occasions printers that show poor, broken nozzle check printouts, even after several cleans, nozzle check printouts still show broken printouts, yet if the above alternative method is used, the printouts are perfect.

All donations of $1,000,000 or more to me at .........

--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

I thought might be helpful to make a quick scan (on my all-in-one - which I normally only use for scanning text) so don't worry about the actual colours as shown. Haven't the time to set the scanner up for better colour rendition. So, this is just to illustrate the point made.

Note at the top is the nozzle check, which shows some black lines in the Yellow and the Magenta is virtually non-existent. However, on same page, is a purge printout showing no problems whatsoever with any of the 6 colours. As said, ignore the actualy colours as shown - due the Epson scanner on the AIO not being profiled. Had to print these at client's home and scan back here. The important bit being photo prints show no signs of the clogging seen in the nozzle check printout on that printer. The edge blurring is due using the more porous plain paper with a gloss paper setting (as are any other minor arterfacts - before some bright spark comments!).



--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

Thank, interesting post!

Zone8 said:

Can I instead suggest the following procedure instead to try for a proper way to see if there really is any clogging. You will basically need a Purge File, containing - on an A4 sheet - vertical strips of the colours of the inks in your specific printer, generally available with the strips being about 1" wide and going down most of the A4 page. However, printing that is also wasteful of ink, so open the file (yes, I will say where to get some in a minute) in such as PhotoShop or whatever you use and crop so that you only have about 3" depth of the stripes (columns of colours) and save that as your purge file to use.

--
Zone8:

Click to expand...

May I add suggestions to your informative post.

1) In a Photo Image Editor (such as Photoshop), reduce each color strips from approximately 1 inch wide down to 1/4 inch width and leave each strip the full original length (or reduce the length if desired) and save the changed file with original name plus Narrow.

2) If the Nozzle check shows to not be proper for just ONE color (or possibly two, etc); make a copy of the above 1/4 inch wide "Narrow" strip file and copy/paste over the color strips that are alright (with white), then flatten the file and save with name of the one or two colors plus Narrow.

The above has prov-en (for me) to be a method to conserve ink and get the same results. Also, the above mentioned (very small) created files continue to be available for future use, as needed.

3) Another thing I find useful is for a clogged nozzle cartridge is to remove the cartridge (using the Change ink method) -- then, gently agitate the cartridge (same as if a new cartridge) -- then, holding the Cartridge up right and tap it several times on a paper on your desk at the lower part of the cartridge that is beyond the "feed Nozzle".

The above has prov-en to be VERY successful in correcting the ink feed and for a perfect nozzle check. Obviously, this encourages any bubbles in the cartridge to settle to the top. The main thing is that this works to resolve the clogged issue.
--
Vernon...

Vernon D Rainwater said:

Vernon D Rainwater said:

The above has prov-en (for me) to be a method to conserve ink and get the same results. Also, the above mentioned (very small) created files continue to be available for future use, as needed.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Useful additional ideas for those with difficulties to have in their arsenal Vernon!

--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

Zone 8 and Vernon,
This is very useful and appreciated information. Thanks!!

Vernon D Rainwater said:

3) Another thing I find useful is for a clogged nozzle cartridge is to remove the cartridge (using the Change ink method) -- then, gently agitate the cartridge (same as if a new cartridge) -- then, holding the Cartridge up right and tap it several times on a paper on your desk at the lower part of the cartridge that is beyond the "feed Nozzle".

The above has prov-en to be VERY successful in correcting the ink feed and for a perfect nozzle check. Obviously, this encourages any bubbles in the cartridge to settle to the top. The main thing is that this works to resolve the clogged issue.
--
Vernon...

Click to expand...

Vernon, I am using the R3000 and still have a R800. The R800 has movinng ink cartridges so the cartridge is near the nozzle; the R3000 with it's fixed cartridges and tubes are not so near the nozzles. Does the solution to remove and tap the cartridge apply to both?

I am also wondering about the solution of parking the head on a paper towel with Windex or ammonia? I haven't tried that one.

A question about the potential for clogs - With the R800 when there is a clog it will often resolve if I print and let it sit for a bit - guessing the fresh ink in the waste ink sponge loosens up the clog. Now the R3000 has a recently installed external waste ink bottle ( a good thing after yesterdays cleaning episode). Anyway, would this make any difference in the potential for clogs? My reasoning is that the R800, when it sits in the sponges with fresh ink is getting "fixed". The R3000 with external waste system doesn't get this? Any thoughts on this? I was surprised at how bad the clog was in the R3000, but it was only the PK ink. I don't think it had been more than two weeks since the last print.

Might as well throw this question in as well. Does the location of the waste ink bottle matter? I had placed the bottle on the surface of the printer cart - now have changed it so it hangs below the level of the printer. Installation instructions for wate ink bottle showed it on printer cart.

Jay

Zone 8, I already had those Purge Sheets that I always use and it was a very good idea to make other people on this forum aware of it. Also I tried Vernons suggestion regarding the Nozzle Test by pulling the cart out shake it and tap it and it worked rather than having to give the printer a head cleaning
I'm glad you 2 guys are on this forum

Andrew

Thank you gentlemen

do the purge test colors actually represent the cartridge colors?

I have never read where they do and they could actually be composite colors for certain printers.

Bob P.

Petruska said:

do the purge test colors actually represent the cartridge colors?

I have never read where they do and they could actually be composite colors for certain printers.

Bob P.

Click to expand...

Bob, I can't be certain for ALL printer brands and Models, however; for my 4 Epson Printers the colors represent the Cartridge Colors. Models are two R800, 2200, and a 3880.
--
Vernon...

without Epson telling us what LAB values of purge print colors will match their cartridge colors.

Bob P.

Jay Reeves said:

Vernon D Rainwater said:

3) Another thing I find useful is for a clogged nozzle cartridge is to remove the cartridge (using the Change ink method) -- then, gently agitate the cartridge (same as if a new cartridge) -- then, holding the Cartridge up right and tap it several times on a paper on your desk at the lower part of the cartridge that is beyond the "feed Nozzle".

The above has prov-en to be VERY successful in correcting the ink feed and for a perfect nozzle check. Obviously, this encourages any bubbles in the cartridge to settle to the top. The main thing is that this works to resolve the clogged issue.
--
Vernon...

Click to expand...

Vernon, I am using the R3000 and still have a R800. The R800 has movinng ink cartridges so the cartridge is near the nozzle; the R3000 with it's fixed cartridges and tubes are not so near the nozzles. Does the solution to remove and tap the cartridge apply to both?

Click to expand...

Since I don't have the R3000 I don't know for sure, however; my belief (based on my printers) that some of the times there are issues with what appears to be clogging -- that part of the time it is caused by the Cartridge. Therefore, If i had the R3000 I definitely would use the method until such time as I proved that it does not work properly for the R3000. I have the Epson 3880 which has the "non moving Cartridges" but during the 20 months of usage, I have never had any issues with nozzle check and/or clogging -- so have not had an occasion to use the method for that printer.

Seems rather unusual (to me) but I have never initiated a Nozzle Cleaning for the 2200 and I have it in use for over 9 years. It continues to print as when new.....

jamn said:

I am also wondering about the solution of parking the head on a paper towel with Windex or ammonia? I haven't tried that one.

A question about the potential for clogs - With the R800 when there is a clog it will often resolve if I print and let it sit for a bit - guessing the fresh ink in the waste ink sponge loosens up the clog. Now the R3000 has a recently installed external waste ink bottle ( a good thing after yesterdays cleaning episode). Anyway, would this make any difference in the potential for clogs? My reasoning is that the R800, when it sits in the sponges with fresh ink is getting "fixed". The R3000 with external waste system doesn't get this? Any thoughts on this? I was surprised at how bad the clog was in the R3000, but it was only the PK ink. I don't think it had been more than two weeks since the last print.

Click to expand...

Actually, when parked; the printhead is resting on the area where the ink is (right end of carriage area) that will eventually drain into the Waste ink Pad or in the waste ink bottle. The head does not come in contact with the waste ink pad area (for either printer model) which is in the bottom of most desktop printers and of course the waste ink bottle (or designated area for such as the 3880 printer).

jamn said:

Might as well throw this question in as well. Does the location of the waste ink bottle matter? I had placed the bottle on the surface of the printer cart - now have changed it so it hangs below the level of the printer. Installation instructions for wate ink bottle showed it on printer cart.

Click to expand...

Jay, unfortunately; you may be just waiting for an accident to happen -- see my Fiasco below. The waste ink bottle is best placed on the same level as the Printer. Yes, the bottom of the Bottle sitting on the same level (same surface) as the printer.

I (unfortunately) made the mistake of temporarily letting my newly installed waste bottle (on one of the Epson R800 printers) hang down and I forgot to replace it in the proper position of the area where the printer was sitting -- and Guess what happened-- the next morning I had ink on my floor area caused by the ink being Siphoned out of the CIS ink feed bottles. There were many CC of wasted ink from primarily two bottles of ink. Note: the CIS was installed (the same day) immediately after installing the Waste Ink Bottle system. What a Mess and fortunately I had a plastic cover over part of the items that would have also got damaged by the siphoned ink.
One shelf and an area of the Floor now has the ink stain.

Note: I use a CIS for one R800 Printer and I refill and reset the empty Epson Ink Cartridges for use with the other R800 -- with the same type ink from Inkjetcarts that I have been using for several years.

jamn said:

Jay

Click to expand...

--
Vernon...

Petruska said:

do the purge test colors actually represent the cartridge colors?

I have never read where they do and they could actually be composite colors for certain printers.

Click to expand...

That is actually true Bob but they do predominantly represent the ink colours. I did also mention to not view the colours as shown due non-setup of scanner. The original purge print is very close to the ink colours in the cartridges - which is what MIS intended them to be. I only posted the scan to show the difference between the faulty nozzle printout and the actual printout on same sheet of paper, starting about 20 seconds later.

I did specifically mention that actual photo output was fine in case someone brought that up. It is basically that the poor, faulty, nozzle check that would normally make users carry out many head cleans and more resultant nozzle check printouts are in fact not only a waste of ink but also, from actual photo printouts, clearly unnecessary. Just think how much Windex will lose in profits from USA users.

--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

Petruska said:

without Epson telling us what LAB values of purge print colors will match their cartridge colors.

Click to expand...

Very easy Bob. Do what I did years ago (and have so done on occasions to show clients). Just put a smeared blob of each on same sheet as the printout of the purge file - the syringes for refillables or CIS units for each does that easily.

--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

Petruska said:

without Epson telling us what LAB values of purge print colors will match their cartridge colors.

Bob P.

Click to expand...

Bob, I really am not certain what you are asking regarding the "How do you confirm that". As far as I am concerned it is rather easy to view a printed pattern of the various ink colors and know if the applicable colors are being printed that represent the various ink colors for a specific printer.

I have NO idea how you would determine the possible colors that may be printed for printers that don't have the normal 6 to 7 different ink cartridge colors. However, if I had one of those type printers I would use a file containing ONLY the colors that match the Print cartridges especially since we are checking the printing of the specific ink Cartridge Colors and NOT the various colors that are possible to be printed by the printer by using the proper mix of the source colors.

All of my printers have the different color cartridges and the test files I use have the same colors (and number of colors) for the specific printer. I have no issue when (for example) printing a Magenta test strip that it is using the Magenta Ink from the Magenta Cartridge.

Therefore, I have no need to confirm or question since I know the colors that are being printed and i am NOT concerned with this process by the fact that some (or all) of my Epson printers manage to print many different colors within a Photograph by mixing the various applicable ink colors as designed by the printer and applicable print drivers for the printer(s).
--
Vernon...

Zone8 said:

Petruska said:

without Epson telling us what LAB values of purge print colors will match their cartridge colors.

Click to expand...

Very easy Bob. Do what I did years ago (and have so done on occasions to show clients). Just put a smeared blob of each on same sheet as the printout of the purge file - the syringes for refillables or CIS units for each does that easily.

--

Zone8: Although I am a handsome geniearse, when I stand in front of a mirror, I vaguely recognise the ugly idjit standing on the other side!

LINK: For B+W with Epson 1400 (and other models) using black ink only PLUS other useful tips:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/epson1400-B&W.htm
Cleaning DSLR Sensors, including Kodak DSLR Factory Cleaning method:
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS/KodakDCS-sensorcleaning.htm
Solving back/front focus problems on Sigma and most other DSLRs
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=35565277

Click to expand...

In past months (or years) during any occasion that the color being printed for any specific Color Cartridge (using print test strips file) -- If I had a reason (when viewing the printed test strip) to question the color -- I would print again but this time use "print to file" so I could open the printed test file in Photoshop and use the Color Sampling to see if my eyes were "playing tricks on me" or if the color was "indeed" Correct --OR-- not correct.
My assumption is that the color sampler seems to be rather accurate.
--
Vernon...

which prints its nozzle check patterns as solid color rectangles. I also printed the MIS 4 color purge patterns on the same glossy photo sheet with color managment turned off which would give the native colors of the printer. I then spot measured

the LAB values of both sets of color blocks using the I1Pro and the measurements proved that the nozzle pattern colors readings were very different than the nozzle pattern colors.

This just indicates that you really can't say if your nozzle pattern has missing segments and that your purge patterns are solid that you don't have blocked nozzles. You may just be seeing composites of non-blocked colors producing the purge colors.

The Q-tip swipe test (which is not scientific as you put down too much ink) matched better to the Canon nozzle pattern colors than the purge pattern colors.

I realize that my test was a worthless effort but at least I now know that these purge colors don't neccessarily represent the cartridge colors, but they sure are purging ink from those particular carts.......

Bob P.

Zone8 said:

That is actually true Bob but they do predominantly represent the ink colours.

Click to expand...

I agree!

Sometimes I dig to deep, it's the engineer in me.

Have you ran your nozzle pattern test after the purge printing?

I just very hard to believe that your yellow is completely missing in your nozzle test but you can print a solid yellow purge rectangle. You must have corrupted nozzle pattern test software or printer coding.

Thanks for making me run the test as both my Canon IP4300 and PRO9000 both have very low cartridges and my spare sets are empty so I need to go refill 4 sets with OCP and had nothing to do tonight.

Bob P.

Should be stated as.....

I then spot measured the LAB values of both sets of color blocks using the I1Pro and the measurements proved that the nozzle pattern colors readings were very different than the "purge" print colors.

Bob P.

Petruska said:

Should be stated as.....

I then spot measured the LAB values of both sets of color blocks using the I1Pro and the measurements proved that the nozzle pattern colors readings were very different than the "purge" print colors.

Bob P.

Click to expand...

Sometimes I think if we ALL expressed as much concern about our Hair turning Gray as we do regarding our Printers -- then (in my case) even at my present age of 80 years, I would continue to have my original Dark Brown to Black hair instead of mostly Gray -- however, my Wife tells me it is mostly White -- [Grin]....
--
Vernon...