Yongnuo YN-560 ii (or III) not working on a6000

[Abaregi]

I can't get mine to work either.

I have a couple RF-603C II that work flawlessly with the flash.
But just mounting the flash is a no-go.

I am thinking of filing down the metal plate mount on the flash to be able to push it further in to the hotshoe. All is clean and nice and I can't understand why it isn't getting any contact with the camera.

Someone talked about peeling of the black paint but I can't fathom why that would help, its only the silver circular contact in the middle that has to have a good contact with the flashpin.

 

[cxsparc]

Electricity always needs two contacts
--
Nex-Blog: http://luxorphotoart.blogspot.de/

 

[AlbieR1]

I can't get mine to work either.

I have a couple RF-603C II that work flawlessly with the flash.
But just mounting the flash is a no-go.

I am thinking of filing down the metal plate mount on the flash to be able to push it further in to the hotshoe. All is clean and nice and I can't understand why it isn't getting any contact with the camera.

Someone talked about peeling of the black paint but I can't fathom why that would help, its only the silver circular contact in the middle that has to have a good contact with the flashpin.

Might want to try what I did with my 580EX II and work it on and off the shoe a bunch till it seats on the shoe correctly. The 580 didn't fire at all when I first tried it., Now it fires every time.

 

[fotowbert]

A flash will fire when it's center contact is shorted to ground. "Shorted" is electrical speak meaning a electrical path has been established which didn't exist before which in this case allows electricity to flow from the flash center contact to the metal foot (ground).

You can demonstrate this by connecting these two locations together with a metal paper clip and the flash will fire. The camera does the same thing in a more elegant fashion with an electronic switching circuit. To work properly two good connections are required between the flash and camera hot shoe, (1) the center contact obviously and (2) the flash metal foot to some part of the hot shoe frame.

• John

I can't get mine to work either.

I have a couple RF-603C II that work flawlessly with the flash.
But just mounting the flash is a no-go.

I am thinking of filing down the metal plate mount on the flash to be able to push it further in to the hotshoe. All is clean and nice and I can't understand why it isn't getting any contact with the camera.

Someone talked about peeling of the black paint but I can't fathom why that would help, its only the silver circular contact in the middle that has to have a good contact with the flashpin.

 

[Abaregi]

Yeah forgot about that..
With the black paint gone it gets a better contact and now works.

I scraped it on the left and right "spring loaded rails" so i have a better contact there and it still looks ok and black when viewed from above.

It fires most of the time now, maybe have to scrape a bit more

Still weird that Sony insulted the hotshoe to try and "force" you to use their stuff..

 

[SrujanSreepathi]

Hi maczeech,

Can you please upload the images where you removed insulation on the shoe mount.

-S

 

[Gennaro]

I would be interessted in that too!

 

[yakkoP]

did you get it to work with the adapter?

I just got the YN-560II. It doesn't work even though I did try to pull it in and out multiple times to get it to work as suggested by someone in this thread.

However, I did get it to work when putting pressure while pulling the flash back while seated in the hotshoe which proves the pin doesn't fully touch the contact in order to get it to fire.

 

[roddypittman]

I removed a little of the black paint as per the instructions in this thread and my yn-560iii is now working fine on my a6000.

The Sony a6000 Hotshoe connectivity guide

Hey guys, I wanted to make this thread in order to help people understand why certain flashes like the Yongnuo fail to trigger reliably on the Sony a6000. It will also explain why this is not a mistake by Sony, but rather an unfortunate side effect for third party devices. So, what's the...

www.dpreview.com

 

[yakkoP]

thanks roddy for your reply.

To make sure I understood everything correctly, the paint needs to be removed on either side below the top part but above the springs of the hotshoe?





Please let me know if that is correct, or whether you did something else. What did you use to get the paint off. Sandpaper, acetone, or anything else?

 

[roddypittman]

thanks roddy for your reply.

To make sure I understood everything correctly, the paint needs to be removed on either side below the top part but above the springs of the hotshoe?



Please let me know if that is correct, or whether you did something else. What did you use to get the paint off. Sandpaper, acetone, or anything else?

I first unsuccessfully tried a little acetone on a toothpick - probably didn't use enough acetone but didn't want to risk using more. Then I wrapped a toothpick with a fine sandpaper and lightly sanded the top surface of the flexible ramp pads, testing the flash after each light sand because I didn't want to remove more paint than needed (I sanded both pads equally but it might not be necessary to do both). After 2-3 light sandings, the flash fired reliably every time. And because the surfaces of the pads are difficult to see under the top lip of the hotshoe, the appearance of the camera is not noticbly affected.

Good luck, hope this hack works for you.

 

[fotowbert]

Neither my YongNuo 560 mkIII flash or RF-603 mkII triggers use the A6000 hot shoe surface Xanmato has marked in red for a ground contact. Instead their metal foot is pulled up against the underside of the shoe rails when turning the locking wheel.

I would suggest carefully scraping the underside area of the A6000 hot-shoe rails to remove any coating since it doesn't show. That area is small and hard to reach so this will most likely be difficult.

Gluing fine sand or emery paper to something you could repeatedly slide into the hot-shoe should work. I would be tempted to make some kind of small hooked tool with a sharp edge that I could drag along the underside of the rail perhaps from a small scrap of hacksaw blade using a bench grinder and dremel tool.

• John

thanks roddy for your reply.

To make sure I understood everything correctly, the paint needs to be removed on either side below the top part but above the springs of the hotshoe?



Please let me know if that is correct, or whether you did something else. What did you use to get the paint off. Sandpaper, acetone, or anything else?

 

[Abaregi]

Anything sharp will do.

I scraped around with a knife to get the paint of. Works fine know.

Really ticks me that Sony painted an electrical contact to promote their inhouse accessories.

 

[fotowbert]

Anything sharp will do.

I scraped around with a knife to get the paint of. Works fine know.

Really ticks me that Sony painted an electrical contact to promote their inhouse accessories.

I can't agree with your conclusion. I have many items, none of them Sony brand, which do use the Sony A6000's unpainted hot-shoe surface for a ground connection. Unfortunately I have others that don't. :-(

I don't know if the ISO 518:6006 standard specifies the location of the ground contact surface or not. They want money to read the full text of the standard.

• John

 

[Fritschli]

Off course, I only found this thread after buying the 560iii for my a6000 but I found the Wiki on the hotshoe quite complete and it mentioned enough to assume the ISO is more for physical dimensions

Loading…

en.wikipedia.org

 

[JustSomeOldDude]

Soooo Basically,,,, Just sliding the flash on and off about 20 or 30 times should wear clean the appropriate grounding points.

 

[Dave Andrade]

Just as an additional tip, if you have a Harbor Freight or another hardware store nearby, they sell filing tools. May be easier than just attaching sandpaper to something, or using a small tool to pick at the paint. More control. It would just be a matter of choosing one that isn't so course where as it takes too much off.

 

[ahesharpe]

Hi, don't know if this has been covered yet (forgive me if it has).

I've just bought a YN560III and RF603CII outfit. I've got an A7r and an A6000. The outfit works fine on the A7r, and I'm delighted with it, really impressed with the flash and think the wireless triggers are going to be very useful.

On the A6000 it is a different matter. The flash is unresponsive when fitted to the hotshoe, it doesn't just not flash, but ALL the controls are locked. With the RF603 the red light on the top back right of unit is continually lit when on the hotshoe, even when the camera is off, and I surmise that this means that whenever either the flash or the RF603 are on the hotshoe that the circuit is being continually closed.

Any ideas? Can it be that the circuits on the A6000 hotshoe are fried? Would this happen even when the camera was off if they are?

Any light that you guys can shed on this situation would be gratefully received. Thanks

 

[pixelpushing]

I have the 560III and there seems to be some variety in remote model and price. Anyone order just one single remote for this thing for less than 20 bucks?

 

[ahesharpe]

In the end I sent the A6000 back for repair. All went smoothly (even though it was over the Easter holiday) after I'd got past the Sony warranty helpdesk, who seemed desperate to blame me, the flash gun, anything to get out of responsibility.

There was a fault, and 2 circuit boards were replaced. Still can't get the Flash gun to mount on the hot-shoe and fire (it wobbles no matter how hard I tighten it), but the remote triggers mount and fire fine, and that's what I really need.