XT5 crash course questions

[DarnGoodPhotos]

(I have the XT2 and I'm about to buy the XT5.) Would focus improve if using a smaller aperture? F/2 is pretty shallow for a face. Try f/4 or f/5.6?

Cute baby. Congratulations!

-Amy

The camera focuses at the lenses max aperture, then stops down to your setting.

 

[yayatosorus]

I can't actually remember, but the pictures look the same for both. It was detecting the eyes correctly, even closed. Why not use the smallest box?

In the past, the smallest box resulted in inconsistent AF performance. No idea if that has been mitigated in the X-T5. Just a FYI.

Concerning the misfocus, could you try to focus via the AF-ON fn button in MF mode. If the camera lens still exhibits this behavior then something weird is going on.

Hi yayatosorus,

I've done that, with similar conditions, and sure enough with back button focus I get the focus correct on the eyes not the nose. This was using one of the medium sizes of autofocus point. What does this mean??!

I'll put it like this, in AF-S, if you have focus coupled with the shutter, it's best to place the focus point over the desired area of focus and pull the shutter all the way down. This ensures correct focus in all situations.

The other option is BBF. I remember at some point people claimed autofocus using BBF in MF was more accurate than in other modes. Not sure how true those claims were and if any of it is applicable today.

BBF has been a very popular way to focus, as it gives you control and allows you to shoot quite fast. It's an awesome technique for still subject, such as a sleeping baby, and greatly mitigates user error, i.e pressing the shutter twice instead of once and moving focus. It also allows for micro adjustments of framing and IMO improves your composition skills in the long run.

As for the size of the focus box, if the area over which you place the focus box is dimly lit and low contrast, then it's possible for the camera to struggle with focus acquisition, especially at wide apertures. On older Fuji models, the smallest box wasn't recommended for low light.

 

[photosesame]

I've done some more playing around and, after my initial excitement, back button focus doesn't prevent the issue. That was just a fluke.

It's not user error. I've found that there's a display mode where you can see a green cross that shows what the camera (thinks it) focussed on. The green cross is consistently on the eye, whether I use eye decent or choose the focus point myself. But the nose or cheek is the part actually in focus. In one photo, the hand is in focus (several cm in front of the eye!). Green cross still on the eye.

I've tried with my 56mm f/1.2 - same problem. I'm incredibly disappointed and am thinking about trying to return the camera. These photos are irreplaceable and I'm really annoyed they're spoiled.

 

[yayatosorus]

Very sorry you're having issues. This is indeed very weird and something I've never encountered. BTW have you tried switching between focus and release priority? If even those setting don't affect the current behavior, then it's possible something is wrong with the camera. In the meantime I would recommend manual focus.

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

I've done some more playing around and, after my initial excitement, back button focus doesn't prevent the issue. That was just a fluke.

It's not user error. I've found that there's a display mode where you can see a green cross that shows what the camera (thinks it) focussed on. The green cross is consistently on the eye, whether I use eye decent or choose the focus point myself. But the nose or cheek is the part actually in focus. In one photo, the hand is in focus (several cm in front of the eye!). Green cross still on the eye.

I've tried with my 56mm f/1.2 - same problem. I'm incredibly disappointed and am thinking about trying to return the camera. These photos are irreplaceable and I'm really annoyed they're spoiled.

At such close range with a wide aperture the DOF is going to be ridiculously shallow (you really ought to stop down at very close range). A green focus box only means it was in focus when the box turned green. In a super shallow DOF situation, if the exposure happens even a split second later, it is entirely likely that either you or your subject will have moved enough to screw things up. The foolproof way to get this in focus where you want it is to place the single point AF box precisely where you want it, and with AF+MF mode off, Focus Priority set to Focus, and AF-S mode on, full-press the shutter button all the way down in a single smooth motion with no pause at a half-press or waiting for a focus confirmation. Position the box, full-press the button, done. With this method, the exposure happens at the moment of focus acquisition and usually guarantees a sharp result every time in difficult situations, including with moving subjects.

 

[photosesame]

I have all the settings as described - focus priority, no AF+MF. I have tried the full press technique many times - same problem. As I said, the camera tells me it focussed in one place but the point of maximum focus is somewhere else. It's definitely a bug.

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

I have all the settings as described - focus priority, no AF+MF. I have tried the full press technique many times - same problem. As I said, the camera tells me it focussed in one place but the point of maximum focus is somewhere else. It's definitely a bug.

You’re definitely tried using AF-S single point, not zone?

 

[gsz]

Have you tried AF-C? I was doing exclusively BBF+focus/recompose for decades on my Canon (D)SLRs, but using AF-C always since I moved to Fuji (for static subjects as well), never had/have AF issues on my T3 and T5.

 

[photosesame]

I have all the settings as described - focus priority, no AF+MF. I have tried the full press technique many times - same problem. As I said, the camera tells me it focussed in one place but the point of maximum focus is somewhere else. It's definitely a bug.

You’re definitely tried using AF-S single point, not zone?

 

[photosesame]

Have you tried AF-C? I was doing exclusively BBF+focus/recompose for decades on my Canon (D)SLRs, but using AF-C always since I moved to Fuji (for static subjects as well), never had/have AF issues on my T3 and T5.

I haven't tried AF-C. Will give it a go.

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

I have all the settings as described - focus priority, no AF+MF. I have tried the full press technique many times - same problem. As I said, the camera tells me it focussed in one place but the point of maximum focus is somewhere else. It's definitely a bug.

You’re definitely tried using AF-S single point, not zone?

Yep. As per the metadata of the files I shared - they're all AF-S single point. I haven't tried zone.

A full-press with the AF-S single point box at the intended focus is pretty foolproof on any of the older Fujis and, I imagine, ought to be on the X-T5 as well. The thing must be genuinely wonky. Time for an exchange.