WB alternative to Expodisc.

Ok, here's a bit better test,
First is Auto, Second is Bulb setting, Third is Pringles Cap Custom WB,
I'm quite happy with the Pringles Cap, lousy crisps though...





 
Buy a tube of pringles crisps, eat the crisps but keep the plastic
top.
Place the plastic top over the lense and point at the light source to
take the WB measurement.
Works fine for me......
Oh sure... You post this and I come home with a BAG of chips before reading it. It figures, tax day anyhow...

Hey, do you think we can now write off Pringles as an equipment expense? Of course, then we'd probably HAVE to eat them.

Anybody tried a little sandpaper on the inside of the lid to make it more diffuse? Any luck?
 
My flavor was "Ranch-rageous. Maybe "Original" would work better. Or "low fat" or "low sodium". I'll leave it to you guys to check that.
  • GageFX
Ok, now try the different flavours! Would Pringles Pizza work as well?
Great info- thanks.
 
Ah, I thought by "manual" you meant setting a kelvin number. I dont like that (unless it;s a slight adjustment on something I already have set) since the actual color temp doesnt always fall so neatly under what it is SUPPOSED to be.

Touched on the white card.

Whatever works.

-GageFX
-GageFX
Neat. and very effective. Thanks.
But....do you really have that much trouble with manual (or even
auto for that matter) WB? Either usually works pretty much dead on
for me, manual especially if I'm using halogen lights or whatever.
It's never been that off for me to worry about it.
--
(DC's)/ Oly E20, Kodak DC4800's, (DV)/ Canon GL1, ZR25,(35mm)/
Minolta HTsi+
PBase supporter
 
Yeh, my Kodak's have a variable kelvin degree setting option. I can't remember the last time I actually used the feature, if that's what you want to call it. I suppose it has a usefulness....I just have'nt figured out what that is yet.

By the way, just got home with the 300. What a beast. Gonna have me some fun playing with this thing tonight. Of course, it's a drab, cloudy, overcast day with nary a bird around either, so I guess I'll be shooting pics of tree limbs or something.
Touched on the white card.

Whatever works.

-GageFX
-GageFX
Neat. and very effective. Thanks.
But....do you really have that much trouble with manual (or even
auto for that matter) WB? Either usually works pretty much dead on
for me, manual especially if I'm using halogen lights or whatever.
It's never been that off for me to worry about it.
--
(DC's)/ Oly E20, Kodak DC4800's, (DV)/ Canon GL1, ZR25,(35mm)/
Minolta HTsi+
PBase supporter
--
(DC's)/ Oly E20, Kodak DC4800's, (DV)/ Canon GL1, ZR25,(35mm)/ Minolta HTsi+
PBase supporter
 
Grease coat on tongue and mouth. Ugh. Of course that doesn't stop me from polishing off one of those little cans at one go.
I'm quite happy with the Pringles Cap, lousy crisps though...
I kinda like them. Nice salt level. Good taste. Their can fails
miserably at keeping them from breaking, but they make a danm fine
$.99 WB setter. :)

-GageFX
 
Not to mention if you cut the other end off it makes a great snoot for my 383s.
Oh I said not to mention that ! :-)

Mr. Bill
I'm quite happy with the Pringles Cap, lousy crisps though...
I kinda like them. Nice salt level. Good taste. Their can fails
miserably at keeping them from breaking, but they make a danm fine
$.99 WB setter. :)

-GageFX
 
Buy a tube of pringles crisps, eat the crisps but keep the plastic
top.
Place the plastic top over the lense and point at the light source to
take the WB measurement.
Works fine for me......

Cedric

http://www.picorama.com
I've been thinking about the expo disk and you just save me 70 bucks - thanks! I did some tests under 1 regular houshold light bulb, using a bread crumb container lid - same as your pringles but much larger. I didnt compare with a kodak grey card because I rarely use it (a pain to carry around), the lid will have a special place in my bag :-). I pointed the camera straight at the light to take a reading - its the correct way right? so how would I take a reading using camera mounted flash? OK, here are the tests:
Auto WB, horrible!



3000K, yellow tint still



Custom WB with lid. WOW!



--
http://members.cox.net/qtphotography
http://www3.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=22164
 
Buy a tube of pringles crisps, eat the crisps but keep the plastic
top.
Place the plastic top over the lense and point at the light source to
take the WB measurement.
Works fine for me......
Great idea, Cedric.
Anybody tried a little sandpaper on the inside of the lid to make
it more diffuse? Any luck?
Hmmm...not a bad idea. I'll have to try that tonight. No Pringles in the house.

--
markE
pbase supporter

Remember the Oly Exx battle cry:

'Though we've been known to make a little noise now and then, the colors here are true!'

-Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/marke/natural_world
 
Another method. Good job. I point it at the source light. Right or wrong it worked for me. As for flash, if you are shooting TTL then AUTO WB will automatically set itself to daylight - an FL-40 or onboard match. And that's exactly what I would do. I'd only use the WBdisc when I'm shooting in anything OTHER than onboard/mounted flash.

-GageFX
I've been thinking about the expo disk and you just save me 70
bucks - thanks! I did some tests under 1 regular houshold light
bulb, using a bread crumb container lid - same as your pringles but
much larger. I didnt compare with a kodak grey card because I
rarely use it (a pain to carry around), the lid will have a special
place in my bag :-). I pointed the camera straight at the light to
take a reading - its the correct way right? so how would I take a
reading using camera mounted flash? OK, here are the tests:
 
Another method. Good job. I point it at the source light. Right or
wrong it worked for me. As for flash, if you are shooting TTL then
AUTO WB will automatically set itself to daylight - an FL-40 or
onboard match. And that's exactly what I would do. I'd only use the
WBdisc when I'm shooting in anything OTHER than onboard/mounted
flash.

-GageFX
Hi GageFX, thanks for your tips on the flash part. I tried the lid today outdoor but it didn't do wonder like my previous test. It was about 5 pm, the sun was still out I was in the shade - I didn't know where to point to get a reading so I just pointed up to the sky. The shot came out a litte less sastified than the 5500K one. Any tricks for this one?
--
http://members.cox.net/qtphotography
http://www3.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=22164
 
What I remember from the time of manual exposure meters: you could either point them in the direction of the object you wanted to shoot( pretty much like the TTL exposure meter works) or you could do it in reverse- and for that put a diffusor cap in fornt of the sensor.

I would assume that it should work the same way for the WB as well- measure the light that falls onto the object- so lets say you want to shoot a tree. You would remember the place you wanted to make the shot from, walk to the tree, put the pringles lid on the camera and point into the direction were you stood before. Now do the WB, walk back to that position and make the shot.
Sounds like golf to me :o)
 
What I remember from the time of manual exposure meters: you could
either point them in the direction of the object you wanted to
shoot( pretty much like the TTL exposure meter works) or you could
do it in reverse- and for that put a diffusor cap in fornt of the
sensor.
I would assume that it should work the same way for the WB as well-
measure the light that falls onto the object- so lets say you want
to shoot a tree. You would remember the place you wanted to make
the shot from, walk to the tree, put the pringles lid on the camera
and point into the direction were you stood before. Now do the WB,
walk back to that position and make the shot.
Sounds like golf to me :o)
Yep kind of works that way- here is the manual for the Expo/Disc:
http://www.expodisc.com/downloads/digitaluse.pdf
 
Point is TOWARDS your subject. Or maybe turn your back to your subject.

Good question. Try both and get back to me. :)

Just pointing it anywhere should be fine as long as it is all natural light. If youare outdoors under artificial light then point it at those lights... I guess.

-GageFX
Another method. Good job. I point it at the source light. Right or
wrong it worked for me. As for flash, if you are shooting TTL then
AUTO WB will automatically set itself to daylight - an FL-40 or
onboard match. And that's exactly what I would do. I'd only use the
WBdisc when I'm shooting in anything OTHER than onboard/mounted
flash.

-GageFX
Hi GageFX, thanks for your tips on the flash part. I tried the lid
today outdoor but it didn't do wonder like my previous test. It was
about 5 pm, the sun was still out I was in the shade - I didn't
know where to point to get a reading so I just pointed up to the
sky. The shot came out a litte less sastified than the 5500K one.
Any tricks for this one?
--
http://members.cox.net/qtphotography
http://www3.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=22164
 
Of course, if you have multiple semi-directional light sources, say fluorescent and incandescent in the same room, you could use a frosted half-sphere to average out what was falling on your subject from the different directions. To use the outdoor example, you may have some skylight, some sunlight filtering through the leaves on the tree, and some light reflected off of the grass your subject is sitting on.

(That's why I like RAW so much, just look for your off-white area and pop it with the eyedropper)
Good question. Try both and get back to me. :)

Just pointing it anywhere should be fine as long as it is all
natural light. If youare outdoors under artificial light then point
it at those lights... I guess.

-GageFX
Another method. Good job. I point it at the source light. Right or
wrong it worked for me. As for flash, if you are shooting TTL then
AUTO WB will automatically set itself to daylight - an FL-40 or
onboard match. And that's exactly what I would do. I'd only use the
WBdisc when I'm shooting in anything OTHER than onboard/mounted
flash.

-GageFX
Hi GageFX, thanks for your tips on the flash part. I tried the lid
today outdoor but it didn't do wonder like my previous test. It was
about 5 pm, the sun was still out I was in the shade - I didn't
know where to point to get a reading so I just pointed up to the
sky. The shot came out a litte less sastified than the 5500K one.
Any tricks for this one?
--
http://members.cox.net/qtphotography
http://www3.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=22164
 
Gage,

Seriously, thanks for this post. I can't believe how much I have learned from all of you. I never would have thought of this and what a difference it makes.I believe Mark said once upon a time, if it wasn't for the forum I'd still be using p-mode. I simply marvel at the knowledge here and how easily it is shared.

Thanks, Bill
I learned this tidbit on a Canon forum somewhere. I think it was
the one post that wasnt about a lens or frontfocus.

At any rate, many of you may have heard of the "Expodisc".
http://www.expodisc.com/

They cost between $50-60.

I made mine for $17 plus one white Kleenex tissue, although I'm
sure other brands will work as well.

Here are the results: (These are with 10D settings. The custom WB
will work just as well with the E-xx, your auto setting may work
better though.)

This was shot of a white wall, white shelves, and slightly grey/off
white speakers. The matte on the lower frame is also white.

First shot is the custom setting shot, the others are self
explanatory (I think).











As you can see, the custom setting is right on. The incandescent
shot comes close, but auto and fluorescent are way off.

This will work just as well on the E-xx.

Here's how it's made.

Buy a Quantum QF64 Diffusing UV Filter Kit - about $17 from any
camera store. It comes with two plastic discs and a plastic ring
that these discs fit into. Take a white tissue and sandwhich it
between the two plastic discs. Snap the discs into the ring. Cut
excess tissue with scissors. Tada.

Another thing, the largest Expodisc is 72mm. The fancy-dancy
Quantum WB doohickey is about 120mm so it is large enough to work
with any size lens.

All you do is hold the "f-d Q WB dh" up to the lens, aim the camera
at the light source and take your WB set exposure. That's it.

Just an E-xx pertinant tidbit from a former E-xxer.

-GageFX
--

Oly E-20, Oly 4040Z, FL-40 pbase supporter
http://www.pbase.com/papa51
 
Gage,

A quick question, do you after you adjust for your light source do you just leave the cam in auto white balance or are you fond of adjusting the temp settings? Thanks in advance for you or whoever answers this question, I'll be away from the machine for a while.

Thanks, Bill
I learned this tidbit on a Canon forum somewhere. I think it was
the one post that wasnt about a lens or frontfocus.

At any rate, many of you may have heard of the "Expodisc".
http://www.expodisc.com/

They cost between $50-60.

I made mine for $17 plus one white Kleenex tissue, although I'm
sure other brands will work as well.

Here are the results: (These are with 10D settings. The custom WB
will work just as well with the E-xx, your auto setting may work
better though.)

This was shot of a white wall, white shelves, and slightly grey/off
white speakers. The matte on the lower frame is also white.

First shot is the custom setting shot, the others are self
explanatory (I think).











As you can see, the custom setting is right on. The incandescent
shot comes close, but auto and fluorescent are way off.

This will work just as well on the E-xx.

Here's how it's made.

Buy a Quantum QF64 Diffusing UV Filter Kit - about $17 from any
camera store. It comes with two plastic discs and a plastic ring
that these discs fit into. Take a white tissue and sandwhich it
between the two plastic discs. Snap the discs into the ring. Cut
excess tissue with scissors. Tada.

Another thing, the largest Expodisc is 72mm. The fancy-dancy
Quantum WB doohickey is about 120mm so it is large enough to work
with any size lens.

All you do is hold the "f-d Q WB dh" up to the lens, aim the camera
at the light source and take your WB set exposure. That's it.

Just an E-xx pertinant tidbit from a former E-xxer.

-GageFX
--

Oly E-20, Oly 4040Z, FL-40 pbase supporter
http://www.pbase.com/papa51
 

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