Using Godox with the A7iii/A7Riii

Thread resurrection, for some unclear reason ...

vpilot
 
I didn't catch this the first time it was posted, and only quickly scanned through this time but there seems to be absolutely no mention of the well known Sony TTL "bug" of underexposure when using apertures larger than f4. Some retailers ended up having to put disclaimers on their websites warning people about it.**

A simple web search will reveal tons of threads and posts and documentation about it. AFAIK Godox never fixed it - so the recommendation for Sony users who like to shoot wider than f4 is forget buying the TTL versions entirely and go manual. (Save money too.)

**Adorama States -
Take Note - Users of the Sony should note that R2 TTL function is still in the stages of development. Please watch for Flashpoint R2 firmware update

That's been there ~4 years now. They are not fixing it.
I just took advantage of the sale on the Adorama 600 and 200 kit / package, and I shoot A7RIV / A7R4. I am new to studio lighting and my setup is a lot like that recommended by the OP, I have the X1T-s trigger. I think I am seeing this behaviour even now. If I shoot TTL from my trigger, and whether manual, A, or S mode on my camera, no exp comp, when I shoot my Batis 85 at 1.8-3.5 the pictures are underexposed. If I shoot F4, the shots brighten up dramatically.

I'm happy to do more testing if anyone wants, just recommend a method, maybe I am missing something, but the only thing I am changing is the Aperture, and the difference is as I said, dramatic. Easily overcome with exp comp in camera or trigger but it's something I noticed straight away.
It has been like this for years. I reported this bug a few years ago. It never got fixed.
 
I didn't catch this the first time it was posted, and only quickly scanned through this time but there seems to be absolutely no mention of the well known Sony TTL "bug" of underexposure when using apertures larger than f4. Some retailers ended up having to put disclaimers on their websites warning people about it.**

A simple web search will reveal tons of threads and posts and documentation about it. AFAIK Godox never fixed it - so the recommendation for Sony users who like to shoot wider than f4 is forget buying the TTL versions entirely and go manual. (Save money too.)

**Adorama States -
Take Note - Users of the Sony should note that R2 TTL function is still in the stages of development. Please watch for Flashpoint R2 firmware update

That's been there ~4 years now. They are not fixing it.
I just took advantage of the sale on the Adorama 600 and 200 kit / package, and I shoot A7RIV / A7R4. I am new to studio lighting and my setup is a lot like that recommended by the OP, I have the X1T-s trigger. I think I am seeing this behaviour even now. If I shoot TTL from my trigger, and whether manual, A, or S mode on my camera, no exp comp, when I shoot my Batis 85 at 1.8-3.5 the pictures are underexposed. If I shoot F4, the shots brighten up dramatically.

I'm happy to do more testing if anyone wants, just recommend a method, maybe I am missing something, but the only thing I am changing is the Aperture, and the difference is as I said, dramatic. Easily overcome with exp comp in camera or trigger but it's something I noticed straight away.
It has been like this for years. I reported this bug a few years ago. It never got fixed.
I had this problem yesterday, but not today.... Maybe I changed some settings. Yesterday it was really bad.

Has there been any other update on this?

Seems some people are victim of it, but others not.
 
I didn't catch this the first time it was posted, and only quickly scanned through this time but there seems to be absolutely no mention of the well known Sony TTL "bug" of underexposure when using apertures larger than f4. Some retailers ended up having to put disclaimers on their websites warning people about it.**

A simple web search will reveal tons of threads and posts and documentation about it. AFAIK Godox never fixed it - so the recommendation for Sony users who like to shoot wider than f4 is forget buying the TTL versions entirely and go manual. (Save money too.)

**Adorama States -
Take Note - Users of the Sony should note that R2 TTL function is still in the stages of development. Please watch for Flashpoint R2 firmware update

That's been there ~4 years now. They are not fixing it.
I just took advantage of the sale on the Adorama 600 and 200 kit / package, and I shoot A7RIV / A7R4. I am new to studio lighting and my setup is a lot like that recommended by the OP, I have the X1T-s trigger. I think I am seeing this behaviour even now. If I shoot TTL from my trigger, and whether manual, A, or S mode on my camera, no exp comp, when I shoot my Batis 85 at 1.8-3.5 the pictures are underexposed. If I shoot F4, the shots brighten up dramatically.

I'm happy to do more testing if anyone wants, just recommend a method, maybe I am missing something, but the only thing I am changing is the Aperture, and the difference is as I said, dramatic. Easily overcome with exp comp in camera or trigger but it's something I noticed straight away.
It has been like this for years. I reported this bug a few years ago. It never got fixed.
I had this problem yesterday, but not today.... Maybe I changed some settings. Yesterday it was really bad.

Has there been any other update on this?

Seems some people are victim of it, but others not.
Have you tried the X-Pro trigger?
 
AFAIK it's not fixed and never will be. The X-Pro didn't fix it. They got away with just shipping it as is and aren't looking back. I've found it's just easier to manually adjust on the fly than trust a broken TTL function and end up with unusable images.
 
What is your flash mode set to? Fill flash?
 
Unfortunately I don't have one so I can't say. I would expect it to be compatible
 
My experience with godox gear is also very good.

Started with a few cheap youngyou flashes, added the godox receievers and x-pro transmitter, then added :

- ad600 (non - pro version) with the extension which is extremely useful. This flash is quite a bit cheaper than the Pro and likely fine for all amateur needs. The extension cable is longer for this version vs the pro and IMHO is a must (to use on booms, for example).

- ad200

- 2 cheap rebranded godox 400 ws studio flashes https://www.essentialphoto.co.uk/product/pixapro-lumi-400-400ws-studio-flash/

They're fine flashes, thoguh only go down to 1/32.

Great system.
 
With this model, I think there is only one trigger option

The website says "Use a FT-16 wireless power-control flash trigger (sold separately) to control the flash’s power output and other functions."
 
Excellent complete write up on a complicated subject.

Wireless flash I am not sure about.

I host many workshops and studio rentals. I have 7 X1T Godox transmitters, and 1 Broncolor RFS.

Most of the time, if the flash (Dumb non HSS Broncolor studio packs) doesn't fire turning Wireless on works.

I'll watch for this next time it happens, but so far turning it on with the X1T tx it has made the flash fire (BTW with Godox Rx1 receivers).

Again excellent tutorial, likely the best I've seen.
 
Thank you theoverratedphotog:-)

for your suppurt in this issue... anyway just to let you know that I tested the xt-16 usb receiver plugged in the usb-a port of the godox AR 400, I also mounted (firmly:) the xpro-S transmitter on the alpha 7 III, follow all of your suggestion and recommendations in your article, but unlickily nothing happen...no flash trigger at all. The alpha 7 III recognize the flash, because I can see on the camera display the flash icon with the orange dot to the side, but no sync at all with the transmitter and the receiver (I tried all the group/channel combination...) I easily can imagine that probabbly I'm doing something wrong (or maybe there's something broken, I don't know...the receiver seems to work: the red led light twinkle once when it plugged as I saw in many youtube review video...) , but anyway it's incredible that (at least it seems) on the entire web there are no article about someone who has tried this setup.

I don't want to be misunderstood by whoever reads, as far as my problem is concerned, I finally fixed it with a cable sync and I'm fine with it. It surprises me and I'm really just sorry that there isn't enough documentation on such a topic, especially from the manufacturers of this equipment because it doesn't seem to be that simple to get it to work properly, that's all.

Seemed like the right place to share those kind of thoughts :), thanks again!

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