R3 Observations - Handling

[RLight]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

 

[Ephemeris]

Continuing my mini-series on the R3, see part 1 here on autofocus if you missed it:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66750960

And part 2 on image quality:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66756859

.

On first hold the R3 is not heavy-feeling; the mechanical advantage of the large grip makes both the body and an attached lens easy to handle, it’s a better solution than my former, smaller EOS R with a large lens despite the R3 body itself being heavier. Total weight and fatigue are surprisingly not an issue; the improved ergonomics makes a huge difference with handling. I will say having the proper strap does makes a difference though. The black rapid street I had in storage makes the R3/28-70 combination sway too much and makes it a formidable bump risk to others and was less comfortable than the Canon Professional Services neoprene strap that I also dug out of storage that succeeded the black rapid strap. It’s a joy to hold and handle. Dare I say even “fun”; it makes large heavy lenses like the RF 28-70 f/2L USM fun to shoot with.

Speaking of accessories like straps, the Canon sling backpack 100S stows the R3 and attached 28-70 f/2L snuggly with the hood reversed. Granted there is no room otherwise, but it makes an excellent compact stow option for those interested solely in that combination.

Huge viewfinder. Although this is self explanatory, it’s worthy of a mention as it’s a luxury and a step up from both my former R and the R5 I gave a whirl previously.

I didn't know the viewfinders were a different size. Is it more than the resolution, HDR mode?

Very nice placement of buttons; I can shoot with thick gloves on. For example, the cold snap we just endured in the larger portion of the U.S.? I was surprised how responsive the camera with gloves on and realized the ingenuity of the power button design; it’s a power switch that can be operated with gloves, and, isn’t easily accidentally turned off. You can also operate the camera in the dark with its illuminated buttons that are large, again operable with gloves on if needed.

The scroll wheel and dedicated rate button is quite handy for culling shots in camera, which is ideal for choosing the best shot in a sequence, which this camera rattles off tons of shots in rapid sequence. This is the most efficient means to cull shots (in camera) and the R3 does this better than the R or R5 with its viewfinder and ergonomics.

How does the rate button system differ from the R5s rate button? It's a feature I've never used and think I aught to.

Smaller lenses don’t feel quite right mounted on the R3 compared to my former (smaller) R or R5 I tried. If you plan to shoot smaller (and cheaper) non-L lenses on it? I suggest the RP, R, R5 or R6 II. Larger lenses? This is your man. Perhaps the upcoming Canon R1 shares a large grip of some kind to give relief for those large expensive L lenses… Never thought I’d say that as I’ve always been a fan of small cameras but there is a reason for larger cameras… For larger lenses. It’s notable that the large grip/s (vertical and horizontal) combined with Eye-Controlled AF, and IBIS enables one hand shooting of the RF28-70 f/2L which has proven useful on several occasions. I couldn’t do that on the R or R5 with the 28-70 f/2L “Goliath” attached.

The R3 has two smart controllers in addition to the plethora of buttons and dials. The smart controllers are a nice touch for the rare occasions eye-controlled AF can’t do the job or where absolute precision in selection is needed. I rarely use the smart controllers in lieu of Eye-Controlled AF, but a nice touch nonetheless giving essentially manual override when needed. To traditional shooters smart controllers represent a seasoned, familiar autofocus selection option for those who choose to use it in lieu of eye-controlled AF that’s more efficient than the direct AF controller on the R5/R6/R7/R10 (and hence why it’s been onboard the high end 1D series for years).

Notably touch and drag AF is gone. I lived on touch and drag on the R, M6 II and R5. I do agree with the sentiment here as the R3 body is too big to use touch and drag effectively. Eye-controlled AF surpasses it thankfully. I was quite unhappy with the R3 the first 24 hours till I got Eye controlled AF setup properly which is a game changer and although highly effective, does require some upfront tuning to get the most from, but rewards those who invest in setting it up and refining the autofocus options to work in tandem with eye-controlled AF for their use case/s. Like DPR, I have to agree that after being spoiled with eye-controlled AF, I don’t want to go without it, even though I still maintain a G5X Mark II for low profile shooting (for now), eye controlled AF is revolutionary and makes ease of use, well, easy. You get more hits, miss less moments, with less effort; easier and more effective than traditional means of AF selection. I hope the R3 isn’t the last Canon to receive eye-controlled AF.

How does the size of the R3 compare to the R5 with grip? An area that I find a little difficult and need to practice more is the grips position of the joystick. I find myself hunting for it a little.

The R3 does come with a top LCD, however comma, Fv mode which has been present for a generation or two now has displaced the need for different shooting modes, makes this moot. I shoot Fv 100% of the time, except, when I need more than 1/8000 which Canon has reserved for ES in Tv mode only. I don’t frequently need more than 1/8000, but I have on a few occasions. However, it can take too long to switch modes for the fleeting moments for it to be of benefit, sadly. Again, this is where the speed and ingenuity of marrying eye-controlled AF, Fv mode and a fast camera make for an agile weapon that always gets the shoot. Apparently except when I need to stop for more than 1/8000. Canon should fix that if you ask me (Maybe they will in a future update).

You’ve got buttons for every conceivable scenario, customizable for every scenario… DoF preview, 2 M.FN buttons, dedicated rated and drive, video toggles, etc. My only gripe might be Canon needs to document things like the AF override I discussed in the autofocus section, rather than having to figure it out.

Regarding OVF simulation, it appears to be a form of HEIF simulation in the EVF which gives a high dynamic range version of preview; great if you want a simulation of HEIF exposure, before you shoot in HEIF. Slight segue; apparently Canons picture profiles apply to JPEG only at this time, making HEIF files a sort of RAW ungraded file where it’s a “flat” file that doesn’t require lens or Canon proprietary data to digest a high depth format, unlike RAW. The trouble is I find HEIFs out of Canons “flat”, that is unappealing vs say HEIFs out of other vendors (Apple iPhones namely). I applaud the forward thinking of Canon here but would like to see some “salt” ie picture profile support for SOOC HEIFs in the future for more desirable SOOC HEIFs.

 

[RLight]

Continuing my mini-series on the R3, see part 1 here on autofocus if you missed it:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66750960

And part 2 on image quality:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66756859

.

On first hold the R3 is not heavy-feeling; the mechanical advantage of the large grip makes both the body and an attached lens easy to handle, it’s a better solution than my former, smaller EOS R with a large lens despite the R3 body itself being heavier. Total weight and fatigue are surprisingly not an issue; the improved ergonomics makes a huge difference with handling. I will say having the proper strap does makes a difference though. The black rapid street I had in storage makes the R3/28-70 combination sway too much and makes it a formidable bump risk to others and was less comfortable than the Canon Professional Services neoprene strap that I also dug out of storage that succeeded the black rapid strap. It’s a joy to hold and handle. Dare I say even “fun”; it makes large heavy lenses like the RF 28-70 f/2L USM fun to shoot with.

Speaking of accessories like straps, the Canon sling backpack 100S stows the R3 and attached 28-70 f/2L snuggly with the hood reversed. Granted there is no room otherwise, but it makes an excellent compact stow option for those interested solely in that combination.

Huge viewfinder. Although this is self explanatory, it’s worthy of a mention as it’s a luxury and a step up from both my former R and the R5 I gave a whirl previously.

I didn't know the viewfinders were a different size. Is it more than the resolution, HDR mode?

Same resolution, more “size”, really it’s just a bigger area between the EVF screen and the frame, but it’s nice as discussed. Yes, HDR mode. I don’t use the HDR mode.

Very nice placement of buttons; I can shoot with thick gloves on. For example, the cold snap we just endured in the larger portion of the U.S.? I was surprised how responsive the camera with gloves on and realized the ingenuity of the power button design; it’s a power switch that can be operated with gloves, and, isn’t easily accidentally turned off. You can also operate the camera in the dark with its illuminated buttons that are large, again operable with gloves on if needed.

The scroll wheel and dedicated rate button is quite handy for culling shots in camera, which is ideal for choosing the best shot in a sequence, which this camera rattles off tons of shots in rapid sequence. This is the most efficient means to cull shots (in camera) and the R3 does this better than the R or R5 with its viewfinder and ergonomics.

How does the rate button system differ from the R5s rate button? It's a feature I've never used and think I aught to.

Actually the R5 I borrowed, never played with it. I would assume the same.

Smaller lenses don’t feel quite right mounted on the R3 compared to my former (smaller) R or R5 I tried. If you plan to shoot smaller (and cheaper) non-L lenses on it? I suggest the RP, R, R5 or R6 II. Larger lenses? This is your man. Perhaps the upcoming Canon R1 shares a large grip of some kind to give relief for those large expensive L lenses… Never thought I’d say that as I’ve always been a fan of small cameras but there is a reason for larger cameras… For larger lenses. It’s notable that the large grip/s (vertical and horizontal) combined with Eye-Controlled AF, and IBIS enables one hand shooting of the RF28-70 f/2L which has proven useful on several occasions. I couldn’t do that on the R or R5 with the 28-70 f/2L “Goliath” attached.

The R3 has two smart controllers in addition to the plethora of buttons and dials. The smart controllers are a nice touch for the rare occasions eye-controlled AF can’t do the job or where absolute precision in selection is needed. I rarely use the smart controllers in lieu of Eye-Controlled AF, but a nice touch nonetheless giving essentially manual override when needed. To traditional shooters smart controllers represent a seasoned, familiar autofocus selection option for those who choose to use it in lieu of eye-controlled AF that’s more efficient than the direct AF controller on the R5/R6/R7/R10 (and hence why it’s been onboard the high end 1D series for years).

Notably touch and drag AF is gone. I lived on touch and drag on the R, M6 II and R5. I do agree with the sentiment here as the R3 body is too big to use touch and drag effectively. Eye-controlled AF surpasses it thankfully. I was quite unhappy with the R3 the first 24 hours till I got Eye controlled AF setup properly which is a game changer and although highly effective, does require some upfront tuning to get the most from, but rewards those who invest in setting it up and refining the autofocus options to work in tandem with eye-controlled AF for their use case/s. Like DPR, I have to agree that after being spoiled with eye-controlled AF, I don’t want to go without it, even though I still maintain a G5X Mark II for low profile shooting (for now), eye controlled AF is revolutionary and makes ease of use, well, easy. You get more hits, miss less moments, with less effort; easier and more effective than traditional means of AF selection. I hope the R3 isn’t the last Canon to receive eye-controlled AF.

How does the size of the R3 compare to the R5 with grip? An area that I find a little difficult and need to practice more is the grips position of the joystick. I find myself hunting for it a little.

Never did the grip on the R5, but Canon and others have made the comparison that they are similar, but, the R3 is lighter. Those smart controllers on the R3 are hot stuff compared to the joysticks. Eye controlled AF takes the cake though.

The R3 does come with a top LCD, however comma, Fv mode which has been present for a generation or two now has displaced the need for different shooting modes, makes this moot. I shoot Fv 100% of the time, except, when I need more than 1/8000 which Canon has reserved for ES in Tv mode only. I don’t frequently need more than 1/8000, but I have on a few occasions. However, it can take too long to switch modes for the fleeting moments for it to be of benefit, sadly. Again, this is where the speed and ingenuity of marrying eye-controlled AF, Fv mode and a fast camera make for an agile weapon that always gets the shoot. Apparently except when I need to stop for more than 1/8000. Canon should fix that if you ask me (Maybe they will in a future update).

You’ve got buttons for every conceivable scenario, customizable for every scenario… DoF preview, 2 M.FN buttons, dedicated rated and drive, video toggles, etc. My only gripe might be Canon needs to document things like the AF override I discussed in the autofocus section, rather than having to figure it out.

Regarding OVF simulation, it appears to be a form of HEIF simulation in the EVF which gives a high dynamic range version of preview; great if you want a simulation of HEIF exposure, before you shoot in HEIF. Slight segue; apparently Canons picture profiles apply to JPEG only at this time, making HEIF files a sort of RAW ungraded file where it’s a “flat” file that doesn’t require lens or Canon proprietary data to digest a high depth format, unlike RAW. The trouble is I find HEIFs out of Canons “flat”, that is unappealing vs say HEIFs out of other vendors (Apple iPhones namely). I applaud the forward thinking of Canon here but would like to see some “salt” ie picture profile support for SOOC HEIFs in the future for more desirable SOOC HEIFs.

 

[LensHood]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO. And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[MAC]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[RLight]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

Setting Av and Tv has the same effect in Fv, but you can clear the settings to swap fast to another desire unlike M. That’s the difference with Fv, no mode swap but same effect. One more set to accomplish, but no mode penalty if you need to clear. Both work for different reasons. Oh, except M doesn’t return to an auto metered P when cleared. That’s where Fv “wins”. It is more efficient in this regard where you may need to drop that hammer on the shutter, quickly. Happens in event shooting, often.

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[MAC]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

Setting Av and Tv has the same effect in Fv, but you can clear the settings to swap fast to another desire unlike M. That’s the difference with Fv, no mode swap but same effect. One more set to accomplish, but no mode penalty if you need to clear. Both work for different reasons. Oh, except M doesn’t return to an auto metered P when cleared. That’s where Fv “wins”. It is more efficient in this regard where you may need to drop that hammer on the shutter, quickly. Happens in event shooting, often.

well, you punching the screen for settings --

instead, M, auto iso, two dials, one for aperture, one for ss, and then control ring for ec for backlit situations, never taking your eye away from or off of the evf

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[RLight]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

Setting Av and Tv has the same effect in Fv, but you can clear the settings to swap fast to another desire unlike M. That’s the difference with Fv, no mode swap but same effect. One more set to accomplish, but no mode penalty if you need to clear. Both work for different reasons. Oh, except M doesn’t return to an auto metered P when cleared. That’s where Fv “wins”. It is more efficient in this regard where you may need to drop that hammer on the shutter, quickly. Happens in event shooting, often.

well, you punching the screen for settings --

instead, M, auto iso, two dials, one for aperture, one for ss, and then control ring for ec for backlit situations, never taking your eye away from or off of the evf

I never take my eye off EVF, either. Main dial, aperture, control dial, shutter. Trash can for reset.

Oh, don’t forget you can use the selection dial if you don’t prefer the control dial. This is a lens appropriate thing.

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[MAC]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

Setting Av and Tv has the same effect in Fv, but you can clear the settings to swap fast to another desire unlike M. That’s the difference with Fv, no mode swap but same effect. One more set to accomplish, but no mode penalty if you need to clear. Both work for different reasons. Oh, except M doesn’t return to an auto metered P when cleared. That’s where Fv “wins”. It is more efficient in this regard where you may need to drop that hammer on the shutter, quickly. Happens in event shooting, often.

well, you punching the screen for settings --

instead, M, auto iso, two dials, one for aperture, one for ss, and then control ring for ec for backlit situations, never taking your eye away from or off of the evf

I never take my eye off EVF, either. Main dial, aperture, control dial, shutter. Trash can for reset.

Oh, don’t forget you can use the selection dial if you don’t prefer the control dial. This is a lens appropriate thing.

how do you EC in that FV mode...

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[Ephemeris]

Continuing my mini-series on the R3, see part 1 here on autofocus if you missed it:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66750960

And part 2 on image quality:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66756859

.

On first hold the R3 is not heavy-feeling; the mechanical advantage of the large grip makes both the body and an attached lens easy to handle, it’s a better solution than my former, smaller EOS R with a large lens despite the R3 body itself being heavier. Total weight and fatigue are surprisingly not an issue; the improved ergonomics makes a huge difference with handling. I will say having the proper strap does makes a difference though. The black rapid street I had in storage makes the R3/28-70 combination sway too much and makes it a formidable bump risk to others and was less comfortable than the Canon Professional Services neoprene strap that I also dug out of storage that succeeded the black rapid strap. It’s a joy to hold and handle. Dare I say even “fun”; it makes large heavy lenses like the RF 28-70 f/2L USM fun to shoot with.

Speaking of accessories like straps, the Canon sling backpack 100S stows the R3 and attached 28-70 f/2L snuggly with the hood reversed. Granted there is no room otherwise, but it makes an excellent compact stow option for those interested solely in that combination.

Huge viewfinder. Although this is self explanatory, it’s worthy of a mention as it’s a luxury and a step up from both my former R and the R5 I gave a whirl previously.

I didn't know the viewfinders were a different size. Is it more than the resolution, HDR mode?

Same resolution, more “size”, really it’s just a bigger area between the EVF screen and the frame, but it’s nice as discussed. Yes, HDR mode. I don’t use the HDR mode.

The physical size would be a key thing for me and if it was brighter. My eyes are not what they once were.

Very nice placement of buttons; I can shoot with thick gloves on. For example, the cold snap we just endured in the larger portion of the U.S.? I was surprised how responsive the camera with gloves on and realized the ingenuity of the power button design; it’s a power switch that can be operated with gloves, and, isn’t easily accidentally turned off. You can also operate the camera in the dark with its illuminated buttons that are large, again operable with gloves on if needed.

The scroll wheel and dedicated rate button is quite handy for culling shots in camera, which is ideal for choosing the best shot in a sequence, which this camera rattles off tons of shots in rapid sequence. This is the most efficient means to cull shots (in camera) and the R3 does this better than the R or R5 with its viewfinder and ergonomics.

How does the rate button system differ from the R5s rate button? It's a feature I've never used and think I aught to.

Actually the R5 I borrowed, never played with it. I would assume the same.

I just wondered how it was better but it's probably not important fella.

Smaller lenses don’t feel quite right mounted on the R3 compared to my former (smaller) R or R5 I tried. If you plan to shoot smaller (and cheaper) non-L lenses on it? I suggest the RP, R, R5 or R6 II. Larger lenses? This is your man. Perhaps the upcoming Canon R1 shares a large grip of some kind to give relief for those large expensive L lenses… Never thought I’d say that as I’ve always been a fan of small cameras but there is a reason for larger cameras… For larger lenses. It’s notable that the large grip/s (vertical and horizontal) combined with Eye-Controlled AF, and IBIS enables one hand shooting of the RF28-70 f/2L which has proven useful on several occasions. I couldn’t do that on the R or R5 with the 28-70 f/2L “Goliath” attached.

The R3 has two smart controllers in addition to the plethora of buttons and dials. The smart controllers are a nice touch for the rare occasions eye-controlled AF can’t do the job or where absolute precision in selection is needed. I rarely use the smart controllers in lieu of Eye-Controlled AF, but a nice touch nonetheless giving essentially manual override when needed. To traditional shooters smart controllers represent a seasoned, familiar autofocus selection option for those who choose to use it in lieu of eye-controlled AF that’s more efficient than the direct AF controller on the R5/R6/R7/R10 (and hence why it’s been onboard the high end 1D series for years).

Notably touch and drag AF is gone. I lived on touch and drag on the R, M6 II and R5. I do agree with the sentiment here as the R3 body is too big to use touch and drag effectively. Eye-controlled AF surpasses it thankfully. I was quite unhappy with the R3 the first 24 hours till I got Eye controlled AF setup properly which is a game changer and although highly effective, does require some upfront tuning to get the most from, but rewards those who invest in setting it up and refining the autofocus options to work in tandem with eye-controlled AF for their use case/s. Like DPR, I have to agree that after being spoiled with eye-controlled AF, I don’t want to go without it, even though I still maintain a G5X Mark II for low profile shooting (for now), eye controlled AF is revolutionary and makes ease of use, well, easy. You get more hits, miss less moments, with less effort; easier and more effective than traditional means of AF selection. I hope the R3 isn’t the last Canon to receive eye-controlled AF.

How does the size of the R3 compare to the R5 with grip? An area that I find a little difficult and need to practice more is the grips position of the joystick. I find myself hunting for it a little.

Never did the grip on the R5, but Canon and others have made the comparison that they are similar, but, the R3 is lighter. Those smart controllers on the R3 are hot stuff compared to the joysticks. Eye controlled AF takes the cake though.

It would seem that the grip on the R5 makes it nightly similar to the R3. I have noticed the smart controller in portrait looks to be in a better place than on my R5 grip.

The smart controller does look very good. The joystick is good but I can see it's an improvement. Am I right in thinking it's the only camera with one?

The R3 does come with a top LCD, however comma, Fv mode which has been present for a generation or two now has displaced the need for different shooting modes, makes this moot. I shoot Fv 100% of the time, except, when I need more than 1/8000 which Canon has reserved for ES in Tv mode only. I don’t frequently need more than 1/8000, but I have on a few occasions. However, it can take too long to switch modes for the fleeting moments for it to be of benefit, sadly. Again, this is where the speed and ingenuity of marrying eye-controlled AF, Fv mode and a fast camera make for an agile weapon that always gets the shoot. Apparently except when I need to stop for more than 1/8000. Canon should fix that if you ask me (Maybe they will in a future update).

You’ve got buttons for every conceivable scenario, customizable for every scenario… DoF preview, 2 M.FN buttons, dedicated rated and drive, video toggles, etc. My only gripe might be Canon needs to document things like the AF override I discussed in the autofocus section, rather than having to figure it out.

Regarding OVF simulation, it appears to be a form of HEIF simulation in the EVF which gives a high dynamic range version of preview; great if you want a simulation of HEIF exposure, before you shoot in HEIF. Slight segue; apparently Canons picture profiles apply to JPEG only at this time, making HEIF files a sort of RAW ungraded file where it’s a “flat” file that doesn’t require lens or Canon proprietary data to digest a high depth format, unlike RAW. The trouble is I find HEIFs out of Canons “flat”, that is unappealing vs say HEIFs out of other vendors (Apple iPhones namely). I applaud the forward thinking of Canon here but would like to see some “salt” ie picture profile support for SOOC HEIFs in the future for more desirable SOOC HEIFs.

Thanks for the overviews you have out together. I'm sure these will help a lot of people for time to come.

 

[RLight]

Great summary. Surprised to read you like Fv mode so much. Can you explain why you like it so much? And why is it better than M? I must be soing something wrong because I find changing a value a multistep process.

I choose M and leave iso on auto most of the time. Only in some circumstances I change iso to a specific value (but then you have the quirck that you cannot dial it back to auto with a wheel, you have to select it via Q menu.).

Fv is a means to get P, Av, Tv, quickly and override. If you’re already going for M, it’s a multi step process, yes. Usually I’m after Av, and then Tv, and occasionally P, in that order. But I’m shooting a 28-70 where it’s shallow enough that f/2 can be too shallow for your subject; sometimes f/2 is the order of the day, sometimes it’s f/4. Likewise I got kids running around, jumping around, so sometimes the order of the day is 1/1000 or better, quickly. Every now and again I want to take a boring ol P shot. It’s rare M is needed. You’ll find me setting a minimum shutter speed though when I need fast and bright in the dark though. I have exposure default overrides mapped to my favorites. Typically 1/125 or 1/250 minimum gets set if that’s needed. I let ISO float otherwise at all times.

Having ISO static, is a very R5 thing to do where drifting above 400 costs you precious color resolution. R3 shooting is quite different as the R3 delivers color fidelity across the ISO range. If I were shooting an R5, I would be M way more often, yes. I’d be dragging that shutter to keep ISO down. Shooting an R3 is the other way around; pop that subject at a high shutter, bump that ISO. Get the shot. R5 is all about the resolution of that shot, but you may miss the shot or have poor image characteristics due to ISO creep.

This is why I recommend the R5 for landscape bunch, R3 for action bunch. That eye control AF helps a ton with the latter (getting the shot). Hybrid shooters need to decide priorities or shoot two bodies for peak results.

Thanks. That's why I shoot in M with auto iso on the R3. I set the diaphragm to match the desired scene DOF, the shutter to match the action and don't care too much about ISO.

agree, M with your method

Setting Av and Tv has the same effect in Fv, but you can clear the settings to swap fast to another desire unlike M. That’s the difference with Fv, no mode swap but same effect. One more set to accomplish, but no mode penalty if you need to clear. Both work for different reasons. Oh, except M doesn’t return to an auto metered P when cleared. That’s where Fv “wins”. It is more efficient in this regard where you may need to drop that hammer on the shutter, quickly. Happens in event shooting, often.

well, you punching the screen for settings --

instead, M, auto iso, two dials, one for aperture, one for ss, and then control ring for ec for backlit situations, never taking your eye away from or off of the evf

I never take my eye off EVF, either. Main dial, aperture, control dial, shutter. Trash can for reset.

Oh, don’t forget you can use the selection dial if you don’t prefer the control dial. This is a lens appropriate thing.

how do you EC in that FV mode...

Selection dial. I do this out of habit though. The drive mode button brings up EC, too. Apparently that’s how 1DX folks could presumably.

And even though I shoot a lot of landscape as well, I just love the handling of the R3 so much, that the UX is the main reason I preferred it over th R5. Ability to turn on eye or face AF for any AF method is superb. And like you, I have created my own (large) square and set it as Flexible Zone 1 and use it by default. With the smart controller it is sooo easy to select a subject, press AF and boom, eye AF on that subject within the square.

 

[KLO82]

Huge viewfinder. Although this is self explanatory, it’s worthy of a mention as it’s a luxury and a step up from both my former R and the R5 I gave a whirl previously.

Don't R, R5 and R3 have the same viewfinder magnification? R5 and R3's EVFs also have same resolution.

R, R6, R6 Mark II, R5, and R3 all have 0.76x magnification viewfinders. However, there is a very slight difference in magnification.




EVF magnification