No that's the beauty of it you can link together and linkup 15gb each time....so 10 accounts is 150GB storage!!!! ("backuped" by NSA butt hence dropbox also.)
I uploaded a word doc with your rw2 as "tutorial" in tutorial folder no strange effects.
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Post processing products and techniques - Part 10 (JPEG and raw)
- Thread starter gardenersassistant
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I uploaded a word doc with your rw2 as "tutorial" in tutorial folder no strange effects.
Some settings within the development parameters can be set "On / Off." This is found in the "Fine color controller", " Lens Distortion Correction" and "Rotation/Shift lens effect" sub-controls.
All sub-controls in "Fine color controller" and the development parameters divided into three blocks in "Lens Distortion Correction" can be switched on / off.
If parameter blocks are off, they will have equal status no matter what value is used in the development parameters composed of the parameter blocks.
this a explanation for the "enable" checkbox and i even google translate it but the bulb does not ignite in to light....
what enables it or not?
All sub-controls in "Fine color controller" and the development parameters divided into three blocks in "Lens Distortion Correction" can be switched on / off.
If parameter blocks are off, they will have equal status no matter what value is used in the development parameters composed of the parameter blocks.
this a explanation for the "enable" checkbox and i even google translate it but the bulb does not ignite in to light....
what enables it or not?
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gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
Nice. What are you using to do the annotations?
I like the way you can read the Word doc there in the browser without having to download it.
gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
As soon as you make an adjustment in any of these controllers the Enable box becomes ticked. You can turn off the adjustments by unticking the Enable box. (This does not set the sliders back to zero - it leaves the sliders where they are but turns off their effects.)
If you tick the Enable box again the adjustments will be turned on again.
You can use this to see the effect of the adjustments by turning them on and off.
Where a controller has two or more tabs, as for example with the Lens Aberration Controller, the Enable box turns on and off the adjustments controlled by the tab concerned but has no effect on the adjustments controlled by the other tabs.
gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
Thanks. Downloaded. I shall install that and take a look at it.
Thanks, after reading i remember you mentioned this before, did a copy past to my "remember this" folder. :-D
(did altered the word doc: wrote "tab" and has to be "ALT" awell two of three characters where correct and it was the same amount of characters........) ;-)
(did altered the word doc: wrote "tab" and has to be "ALT" awell two of three characters where correct and it was the same amount of characters........) ;-)
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gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
LOL! Close.
I agree under strong summer winter light i often have to dail in a -1 2/3 or even -2 EV to prevent blown highlights. Sometimes switching to centerweight metering helps too dealing with large parts of shadows.
I like what you guys did with the snake! I have to remember that in case i miss a cpl out shooting!
I like what you guys did with the snake! I have to remember that in case i miss a cpl out shooting!
Mikedigi
Forum Pro
Dear All,
Just tripped over this bit from about a week ago:
"I think SP7 came out rather well from these comparisons.
SP7 seems to be a gold mine without a map.
You two should draw the map - people would buy it, here on Dpreview.
A 10-page Bible for simple Pilgrims seeking the Holy G***l.
PDF, = searchable with Adobe Reader.
Kind of SP7 meets Helicon Filter control levers.
Mike.
[ Just re-awakening after a 23-hour Odyssey returning home. From Alonnisos, Greece, not New Zealand. ]
[ I need a holday. ]
Just tripped over this bit from about a week ago:
"I think SP7 came out rather well from these comparisons.
Not USM, because you can't use a large Radius.
REVELATIONS !!!
SP7 seems to be a gold mine without a map.
You two should draw the map - people would buy it, here on Dpreview.
A 10-page Bible for simple Pilgrims seeking the Holy G***l.
PDF, = searchable with Adobe Reader.
Kind of SP7 meets Helicon Filter control levers.
Mike.
[ Just re-awakening after a 23-hour Odyssey returning home. From Alonnisos, Greece, not New Zealand. ]
[ I need a holday. ]
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Mikedigi
Forum Pro
I have just been using -0.66, and right up to to -1.66 EV, a lot of the time, in Alonnisos, Greece. Shooting JPEGs with the ZS7/TZ10.
[ Donkey died, left FZ200 in the apartment . . .
]Mike
gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
Trouble is Mike, what to include and how much detail to include? I find that making things easy to follow often means making them long (detailed instructions, lots of screenshots). An overview could be short(er), but I don't think the level of detail for things like the example you just picked out would be covered in an overview. And comparisons - between which products?
And then there's the time needed to put these things together.....
I think @Spike29's Google Drive setup is the best we can hope for at the moment. Let's see how that goes.
After a journey that length, I should think so.
Mikedigi
Forum Pro
The "Statue" example got really complicated, starting with bad exposure.
I was thinking more of headings, in order of workflow, e.g. one of which would be "Dehazing", and the tip - "Black level tool".
Problem being, SP7 has multiple, mis-named sliders, of which, for simple tasks, you might need just one or two.
No comparisons with other apps, I was not thinking of those. Just de-mystifying simple tasks in SP7, used as main and maybe only RAW/JPEG Editor.
I would never underestimate that.
Great idea, I hope it goes well.
Mike
gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
please do! i can learn still a trick or two, tree, four, fi.... :-D
The ctrl-C ctrl-V is a very nice tool and im also fond of partial past of development parameters! (when you have several shots of more ore less the same time(light) framing and coloration you can do the basic's one's and paste them over the others. (partial if you used aberration or so what's image specific to sort out the not wanted...)
an other tip: Fringe reduction works against and together with chromatic aberration eyedropper. (first eyedropper to close the gab narow the colored line and Fringe reduction slider to get rid of the rest.! (or most of it.)
(slingshot any one?)
tree branches have still a bit of fringing.
Sometimes this happens on the outline of objects. The back plane of focus edge show up in magenta/redish colourcast. The front plane of focus edge show up in a green/cyanish colourcast.
This occurs mostly when you use fast glass or shoot a zoom wide open at large apertures. Sometimes it helps to stop the lens down. But with small sensor cameras i normally won't go beyond F5.6. As other unsharp effect like diffraction can occur.
Spike in pse you can handle that with a new adjustment layer colourtone-saturation style. If there are multiple colourcasts along the edges as mentioned above you have to use multiple layers to remove . Work on 1:1 format and use the hand to inspect the image.
As seen below when adding a new adjustmentlayer for colour/sat . A box appears:
Watch full size. uncircled colourtone saturation adjustment layerstyle box. The arrow in the middle you use to lower the saturation. At the top below the red circle you see the box where you flip between colours. Normally i try magenta first and on a second adjustment layer i use cyan or green. The bottom eyedropper encircled most right one says remove colour. After taking a sample of the image . You see the bottom left panel white/black box change the black to picked colour from the eyedropper. Then take the saturation slider down. After that apply next adjustment layer etc. When all done flatten image (merge layers).
On this particulair image it is not problematic however sometimes when shooting up close it can occur too. And you can be left with a greyish outline where you desaturation happened. Sometimes adding colourfilters /splittone filters can mask that a bit the easy way. But working with a masklayer and using a fill colour with brush can be used but tedious process.
Here is my personal take on your nice scenery. Cheers:
This occurs mostly when you use fast glass or shoot a zoom wide open at large apertures. Sometimes it helps to stop the lens down. But with small sensor cameras i normally won't go beyond F5.6. As other unsharp effect like diffraction can occur.
Spike in pse you can handle that with a new adjustment layer colourtone-saturation style. If there are multiple colourcasts along the edges as mentioned above you have to use multiple layers to remove . Work on 1:1 format and use the hand to inspect the image.
As seen below when adding a new adjustmentlayer for colour/sat . A box appears:
Watch full size. uncircled colourtone saturation adjustment layerstyle box. The arrow in the middle you use to lower the saturation. At the top below the red circle you see the box where you flip between colours. Normally i try magenta first and on a second adjustment layer i use cyan or green. The bottom eyedropper encircled most right one says remove colour. After taking a sample of the image . You see the bottom left panel white/black box change the black to picked colour from the eyedropper. Then take the saturation slider down. After that apply next adjustment layer etc. When all done flatten image (merge layers).
On this particulair image it is not problematic however sometimes when shooting up close it can occur too. And you can be left with a greyish outline where you desaturation happened. Sometimes adding colourfilters /splittone filters can mask that a bit the easy way. But working with a masklayer and using a fill colour with brush can be used but tedious process.
Here is my personal take on your nice scenery. Cheers:
Attachments
Thanks! i will try this in PSE13. (didn't find this future yesterday in a quick look.)
I need to do some more reading/learning in silkypix to get the best effect.
ok found this in pse13.
Yes and i did, i think i do something wrong i get the eyedropper and the purple box but then i get lost. The hole picture loses color.
Can you do a screenshot step by step? So i /we can see what is happening?
(i did this one with sp7 aberration controller. so i put the raw in test picture. for the "base point start".)
gardenersassistant
Veteran Member
I have put a pdf here in the tutorial folder. I decided to tackle one of the areas I have found most puzzling with SP7Pro. Hope you find it interesting/useful.
--
Nick
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gardenersassistant/collections/
GardenersAssistant Photography Videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmBgEwRDfiQMYTPORSzDxvw
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/t...-dslr-primes-a-journey-of-exploration.531050/
--
Nick
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gardenersassistant/collections/
GardenersAssistant Photography Videos - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmBgEwRDfiQMYTPORSzDxvw
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/t...-dslr-primes-a-journey-of-exploration.531050/
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Nice one Nick! i like it!
may i add some things? (i bin playing a lot with this sliders to grasp there adjusting capabilities.)
I found this very useful in using the dodge/burn slider as a level correction tool:
Highlight recovery in your PDF: in the color burn slider and color burn/hdr you can alter the correction strength by using the chapter 4.9. Highlight Controller tool.
by altering : Emphasis on Chroma/Luminance,Emphasis on Saturation/Hue, Luminance restoration.Dynamic range expantion.
Mostly by shifting chroma and saturation to the left. (0) and lowering luminace restoration.. You can get some (extra) more hightlight recovery out of the slider.
(it is pre or post adjustable when using burn)
And to check if bright area is still recoverable you can use the eyedropper (Exposure Bias Tool (F2) on that bright area.(if giving error like invalid exposure point the area is to bleeched and lost texture for fully recovering without disturbing something else.)
if changed exposure this is the deepest exposure degree (-ev) in this picture (sometime just dodging to lift shadow is enough, or you can just "undo" and use Auto Exposure Value button to get the average exposure value adjustment of the hole image. That can be your starting point wile using colorburn/dodging HDR. Because somewhere in between those two exposure-point's is the sweetspot. (it is not 100% but i find most of the time a starting point by using exposure eyedrop and auto and undo and slide manually the ev somewhere between those two points before using dodge/burn/HDR)
And second:
Fine color controller has some presets: sky blue enhancement or green enhancement, sunset those are nice to do a quick correction or give a starting point.
at last: the Tone Curve adjustment:
(this one is a bit tricky: im not totaly (understatement) comfortable with this tool, but sometimes i get more out of this than the burn/dodge sliders by S-ing its line.
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