Nikon's Tech Manager posts to E-mail list

[Phil Dunne]

Thomas, I bought my camera back in May 2002. I spent 4-6 weeks researching cameras because a purchase of this magnitude on my salary is not to be taken lightly. So I was fully aware of the potential problems with focus. Why did I buy it still - because it did everything else so much better than any other camera in it's range. I very nearly bought the 707 but the accuracy of colour reproduction swayed me in the end. I agree - a $1000 nikon SLR should have fantastic focus abilities - but this is digital. I have no problems switching to manual focus to take shots in near total darkness. With ISO 200, and the flash set to +2 I can light up subjects 18ft away with the internal flash in perfect exposure and focus by changing 2 settings only - aperture prioirty and focus distance. Since both are changed with dial and thumb and can be done (with practice) in a fraction of a sec I rarely miss a candid shot. The camera responds in an instant.

Moral of the story - do your reseach. Test a camera in the shop. Know what you are getting into right from the start. Learn how to use the camera and the workarounds. Unless you are a rich fool there is no other way.

These type statements digress the cause.
Let us say there is a very good camera like the Coolpix 500, (I am
using the 5000 for an example)
Because: in this case it applies.
Moreover, I came on the forum after using it for the first time in
the studio.
And suggested that a 1000.00 Nikon with a hot shoe should have the
same capabilities as a basic low-end camera with a hot shoe.
(Like hook it to a common flash sync cord)
In addition, I was the first to suggest that I could work around it
by taping the on camera flash, and using it in the studio that way.
(Which, by the way works perfectly)

I am curious… Were you around when the 5000 first came out?
In addition, where you singing caveat emptor then?

I was the first to complain about the 5000’s flash, and
The first to suggest the “Tape over the flash work around”

The first to complain that a $1000.00 Nikon with a hot shoe
Should work like any other “low end on up” camera with a hot shoe.
(Meaning you can use it with a common flash sync cord)
I wasn't the first to put in the new firmware, But we know what
fueled the idea for it. (It was not a coincident)

I was the biggest complainer of Nikon not listening to customer
complaints.
I was then like now, a loyal Nikon user and advocate of a firmware
fix.
I was a royal pain in their aress’s.

Moreover, I did not take the caveat emptor position,
Because I know what is reasonable to ask of a $1000.00 Nikon.
They agreed with me and fixed it.
No thanX, to the scores of others, who got in my way, and not in my
group.
One more question,

… (Do you have the new firmware in your 5000?) …
... ( http://www.ycsphoto.com ) ...
~ Hit F11 key @ my site - Right Mouse click to navigate~

I wonder how many WILL NOT up-grade thier 5700 with a new firmware?

--
... ( http://www.ycsphoto.com ) ...
~ Hit F11 key @ my site - Right Mouse click to navigate~

--
Cheers
Phil

cp5000

 

[Louie Kokoris]

I think this comes down to technique. It seems that you have mastered a technique that works for you.

At the moment, i am trying to master my manual focus confirmation technique under low light. The problem that i am having is that i have to think twice if the focus bar is in the right area. On my 5700, under low light, the whole EVF is grainy and it looks like the whole EVF is showing focus confirmation. Now if I turn the command dial another 3 rounds, it does not seem like anything has changed on the EVF.

Does anybody else have this problem?

I understand though, that the only way that I will get this right, is to practice. All i have to do now is wait till i get my 5700 back from nikon.

Louie

Moral of the story - do your reseach. Test a camera in the shop.
Know what you are getting into right from the start. Learn how to
use the camera and the workarounds. Unless you are a rich fool
there is no other way.

These type statements digress the cause.
Let us say there is a very good camera like the Coolpix 500, (I am
using the 5000 for an example)
Because: in this case it applies.
Moreover, I came on the forum after using it for the first time in
the studio.
And suggested that a 1000.00 Nikon with a hot shoe should have the
same capabilities as a basic low-end camera with a hot shoe.
(Like hook it to a common flash sync cord)
In addition, I was the first to suggest that I could work around it
by taping the on camera flash, and using it in the studio that way.
(Which, by the way works perfectly)

I am curious… Were you around when the 5000 first came out?
In addition, where you singing caveat emptor then?

I was the first to complain about the 5000’s flash, and
The first to suggest the “Tape over the flash work around”

The first to complain that a $1000.00 Nikon with a hot shoe
Should work like any other “low end on up” camera with a hot shoe.
(Meaning you can use it with a common flash sync cord)
I wasn't the first to put in the new firmware, But we know what
fueled the idea for it. (It was not a coincident)

I was the biggest complainer of Nikon not listening to customer
complaints.
I was then like now, a loyal Nikon user and advocate of a firmware
fix.
I was a royal pain in their aress’s.

Moreover, I did not take the caveat emptor position,
Because I know what is reasonable to ask of a $1000.00 Nikon.
They agreed with me and fixed it.
No thanX, to the scores of others, who got in my way, and not in my
group.
One more question,

… (Do you have the new firmware in your 5000?) …
... ( http://www.ycsphoto.com ) ...
~ Hit F11 key @ my site - Right Mouse click to navigate~

I wonder how many WILL NOT up-grade thier 5700 with a new firmware?

--
... ( http://www.ycsphoto.com ) ...
~ Hit F11 key @ my site - Right Mouse click to navigate~

--
Cheers
Phil

cp5000

--
CP5700
Sydney, Australia
http://www.pbase.com/louiek

 

[kecohen]

Hi Gary,

Yes indeed, the onboard flash is a strobe, note the "SB" red ready
indicator in the monitor/evf. The flash on the 5700 is in the
neighborhood of 1/2000th sec. I use up to 1/2000th shutter for
sych. unless I want to use the flash for fill. Then slower shutter
speeds are in order.

Ron T

Ron,

Yes, your shutter can be made into a strobe in manual mode, but in program mode, it isn't.

The flash is for all practical purpose only throwing more light on the subject--up to about 13 ft. It is not a guarantee that using it will stop action, particularly if he's hand holding the camera in a crowded bar at full zoom and trying to get a picture of the band on stage.

--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.
Minolta 7000i, accessories and lenses, lenses, lenses; CP5700, TC15ED,
Kenko KUT-300 Hi, SB80X Speedlight, Epson Stylus 980N, Epson 7600
(shared), Epson Expression 1680 w/ transparency unit, Tamron Fotovix
60WU....
http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/

 

[kapalua]

Dentry said that his participation in the yahoo fourm is on his own
time and against the advise of his peers at Nikon because of the
beating one takes in this type of forum. Dentry further said that
he usually posts in the SLR areas but, he would continue to post at
yahoo if he could offer useful information. I wish he would post
here also as the yahoo forum is a pain in the ass to use. Maybe if
we all send a polite email inviting him to stop by....

One does have to wonder why product managers don't lurk in the
forums more, I know I do for my industry. Further, why do the
problems many of us post about never show up in the main stream
media reviews and online reviews. I think an article in digital
camera or shutterbug with a headline THE 5700 HAS A LONG LIST OF
COMPLAINTS would quickly get some attention - at the cost of
advertising maybe, an that's the rest of the answer.

David Dentry (Nikon USA's Manager, Technical Information, Digital
Products) has recently posted a few messages to the Nikon 5700
E-mail list at Yahoo Groups. There isn't any "new" news in his
messages but it is encouraging to see him participating. If you
would like to read what has been posted (and exchanged), please
visit the Nikon5700 site here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Nikon5700/

You will likely have to join the group to be able to read any
messages.

Mark

Good info, thanks for posting this
--
Kapalua
Nikon CP5700 as of 12-24-2002
Nikon F3, Nikon N70

 

[Michael Offe]

a while ago and he said he used to keep an eye on this Forum, but it now gets so many messages a day he doesn't get time to keep up with it anymore.

Maybe the manufacturers need to employ a 'Forum Watcher', whose job would be to keep abreast of the Forums and report to the Managers and R&D depts. as to what customers are thinking and would like.

Yours sincerely,
Michael Offe,
South Australia.

a message in the yahoo forum stating that if you have an issue with
a Nikon camera you need to post it via tech support. He even
suggested that a US Mail complaint to Nikon USA will get more
attention than email. He seems to indicate that very little if any
attention is paid to complaints made in this venue and I think we
all know why. Personally, I think if one wanted to really make an
impact the best thing to do is write a letter and bullet the
problems they are having with the product.

Dentry said that his participation in the yahoo fourm is on his own
time and against the advise of his peers at Nikon because of the
beating one takes in this type of forum. Dentry further said that
he usually posts in the SLR areas but, he would continue to post at
yahoo if he could offer useful information. I wish he would post
here also as the yahoo forum is a pain in the ass to use. Maybe if
we all send a polite email inviting him to stop by....

One does have to wonder why product managers don't lurk in the
forums more, I know I do for my industry. Further, why do the
problems many of us post about never show up in the main stream
media reviews and online reviews. I think an article in digital
camera or shutterbug with a headline THE 5700 HAS A LONG LIST OF
COMPLAINTS would quickly get some attention - at the cost of
advertising maybe, an that's the rest of the answer.

 

[Teddy Dako]

Hi all,

I am at the point where I would like to to upgrade my casio 3000 to a new 5MP camera and I was looking to buy the Nikon 5700. Or a Minolta7Hi or Casio 5700. But my preference is the Nikon.

Now I come across there posts and halfway, I gave up reading. Is the camera that bad or it's just a feature that seems to be missing? I am not really sure what the AF assist is and if i will need it. I don't know if my current casio has it. Am I correct in assuming that this issue being discussed here is only for low light regions?

So all in all, the camera DOES focus well, except in areas where the light is low?

Kind Regards
Teddy

 

[kecohen]

Karen,

Yes it is, but you seem to be contradicting yourself when you say
"My camera has no difficulty as long as I do not zoom all the way
to the maximum 71.2"

Oh, my, Gary, the camera's lens does have some limits. It only permits f/4.2 at full zoom!

Better than many comparable slr zooms that at f/5.6 at full zoom. But in comparing it to other digitals that only give you a max of 200mm equiv., if you were to use your camera a 200mm, it would perform just as well as any other.

On the one hand, you're saying that at full zoom you have a
problem, but OTOH, you're also saying that there is no problem if
it's used conditionally.

Not really, I'm saying that there are certain conditions under which it would be nice to be able to use the camera at full zoom, that are beyond its capacity without a tripod.

While the tripod might help in many situations, there are equally
any number of situations where a tripod simply is not a practical
solution.

Then this isn't the right camera to use in those situations.

The fix for this set of circumstances is a bigger brighter lens, not a firmware upgrade.

Actually, I believe it is (but certainly not a high powered one),
yes it can, and it most certainly does.

You can set it that way in manual mode, but in programmed auto it isn't.

shutter. If you can't lock focus on the subject in front of you,
change Area Focus to manual and switch to Spot Metering.

Yep. Been there; done that. Still doesn't work.

Most people beleive that it helps to turn Area Focus off. However,

Well, for me it doesn't seem to work either way.

And this is the crux of the issue: what, precisely, is "enough
light" ?

I can certainly separate the subject from the background, but I
appreciate that no light sensing equipment can match our eyes in
this regard.
The 5700, used in parallel with the 801 just 10 days ago, couldn't
match the 801 for reliability of focus.
That being said, I can use my F801 with its dark-ish viewfinder and

Sure, I can do it every day with my SLR and a comparable lens...Do you notice anything about your F801 and a 300mm zoom lens on your F801 that's different from the CP5700?

A great deal. The weight for one thing, helps steady the camera. The lens bore diameter for another, that large front element is letting a lot more light in--and the image size is 4x the size of the image size of the CP5700.

lighting conditions. And I also know that if I'm using the zoom, I
have to increase my shutter speed or use a tripod. In low light,
where increasing my shutter will give me too underexposed an image,
I use a tripod.

Yes, but again, it depends, and again, tripod usage isn't always an
option.

How about a good monopod? I have one that has detachable legs--a Bogen 682 (I think that's the number.) The legs aren't as steady as a solid tripod, but once it's set up, I can use the remote shutter to prevent any further jostling.

The basic disagreement is that "the camera doesn't focus
accurately." I agree that in Automatic Program mode it will do a

No, not quite. I think that the basic disagreement is that "the
camera doesn't focus accurately in low light situations".

The qualification here is a vital piece of data, and I think that
it's one that you seem to be in basic agreement with. But from what
you're saying, I think that it might also be reasonable to say that
your photographic situations permit you to work around the problem,
through, for instance, your use of a tripod. Certainly my
experience is that in good lighting conditions the camera focusses
quickly and accurately.

Now we're getting somewhere! The crux of the disagreement isn't one of terminology, it's one of expectations. You want this camera to function like your F801. But the CP5700 isn't a DSLR.it has a SLR-like format in that it has a TTL EVF, and lots of controls.
But we shouldn't be fooled into thinking that it's something it's not.

You want--we ALL want--a top of the line, fully featured DSLR at a cheap price. Guess what? An F5 (film) body goes for upwards of $1600 (exclusive of lenses.)

We bought a fully featured 5 megapixel digital camera with a non interchangeable zoom lens for about $400 less. I never expected this camera to perform like my Minoltas. That's why I still have them. And until I can afford a D1H (because I do a lot of sports photography,) I can work with the few limitations of the CP5700.

--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.
Minolta 7000i, accessories and lenses, lenses, lenses; CP5700, TC15ED,
Kenko KUT-300 Hi, SB80X Speedlight, Epson Stylus 980N, Epson 7600
(shared), Epson Expression 1680 w/ transparency unit, Tamron Fotovix
60WU....
http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/

 

[Gary Stark137586]

Teddy,

The camera is truly great. A top of the line digital, with a great many features, and a wonderfully crisp lens to boot.

No camera is perfect, and the 5700's primary shortcoming for me is the poor low-light focusing capabilities. Get some decent light on the subject, and there is no problem at all.

Many of my shots need to be taken in less than ideal conditions, and this, for me, is an issue.

But the lens and picture quality, along with the lens zoom range, are really second to none, and for travel needs I probably will have little need to take anything else along with me.

I'm really quite happy with mine, but if we could get the low-light focus issue addressed, I'd be ecstatic.

Hi all,

I am at the point where I would like to to upgrade my casio 3000 to
a new 5MP camera and I was looking to buy the Nikon 5700. Or a
Minolta7Hi or Casio 5700. But my preference is the Nikon.
Now I come across there posts and halfway, I gave up reading. Is
the camera that bad or it's just a feature that seems to be
missing? I am not really sure what the AF assist is and if i will
need it. I don't know if my current casio has it. Am I correct in
assuming that this issue being discussed here is only for low light
regions?
So all in all, the camera DOES focus well, except in areas where
the light is low?

Kind Regards
Teddy

--
g.
Gary Stark
[email protected]
Down under in Sydney, Oz.

 

[Teddy Dako]

Hi G,

Thanks for improving my confidence in the camera. I really appreciate that.

I'm saving up some money to get the Nikon and I most likely will.

Teddy

Teddy,

The camera is truly great. A top of the line digital, with a great
many features, and a wonderfully crisp lens to boot.

No camera is perfect, and the 5700's primary shortcoming for me is
the poor low-light focusing capabilities. Get some decent light on
the subject, and there is no problem at all.

Many of my shots need to be taken in less than ideal conditions,
and this, for me, is an issue.

But the lens and picture quality, along with the lens zoom range,
are really second to none, and for travel needs I probably will
have little need to take anything else along with me.

I'm really quite happy with mine, but if we could get the low-light
focus issue addressed, I'd be ecstatic.

 

[Gary Stark137586]

Karen,

But in comparing it to other digitals that only give you a max of
200mm equiv., if you were to use your camera a 200mm, it would
perform just as well as any other.

But that's my point. It quite simply doesn't.

I suspect that you're making the assumption that I'm shooting at full extension, and yes, sometimes I am.

Sometimes.

On the one hand, you're saying that at full zoom you have a
problem, but OTOH, you're also saying that there is no problem if
it's used conditionally.

Not really, I'm saying that there are certain conditions under
which it would be nice to be able to use the camera at full zoom,
that are beyond its capacity without a tripod.

And I would respectfully suggest that a tripod would make no difference whatsoever in some of the conditions under which I'm shooting.

Then this isn't the right camera to use in those situations.
The fix for this set of circumstances is a bigger brighter lens,
not a firmware upgrade.

Perhaps, but I think not. We're not talking about exposure; we're talking about focussing. The camera simply isn't up to par in many low-light situations.

Actually, I believe it is (but certainly not a high powered one),
yes it can, and it most certainly does.

You can set it that way in manual mode, but in programmed auto it
isn't.

Er, no.

I just tried to induce camera shake with the 5700 set on P/norm. Swinging the camera wildly - almost violently - about, and with no regard whatsover to focus, failed to give me any images where I could see evidence of camera shake.

The 5700, used in parallel with the 801 just 10 days ago, couldn't
match the 801 for reliability of focus.
That being said, I can use my F801 with its dark-ish viewfinder and

Sure, I can do it every day with my SLR and a comparable lens...Do
you notice anything about your F801 and a 300mm zoom lens on your
F801 that's different from the CP5700?

Actually, I was using the 801 with a 70-210 f5.6, and experienced no AF issues whatsoever.

A great deal. The weight for one thing, helps steady the camera.

Yep. That's helpful when making the exposure if it's going to be a longish/handheld one, but for focussing, it makes little difference.

The lens bore diameter for another, that large front element is
letting a lot more light in--and the image size is 4x the size of
the image size of the CP5700.

While yes, there's more light coming in, the 801 is a very old camera, and is far less sophisticated, and I expect with sensors that are not anywhere near as sensitive as those in the 5700.

While the image size might be 4x the size, we're still talking in terms of microscopic sizes with regards to the sensors. This aspect really is a moot point.

Yes, but again, it depends, and again, tripod usage isn't always an
option.

How about a good monopod? I have one that has detachable legs--a
Bogen 682 (I think that's the number.) The legs aren't as steady as

No ... gets in the way. I'm frequently at the foot of the stage, or sometimes on the stage, and I can't risk getting anything caught amongst any cables and such. Mind you, I love the Bogen (Manfrotto for us down under) gear, and have a couple of very nice and sturdy tripods.

And in reality, I don't believe it would help in this problem, although it's something that I'm willing to play with.

you're saying, I think that it might also be reasonable to say that
your photographic situations permit you to work around the problem,
through, for instance, your use of a tripod. Certainly my
experience is that in good lighting conditions the camera focusses
quickly and accurately.

Now we're getting somewhere! The crux of the disagreement isn't one
of terminology, it's one of expectations. You want this camera to
function like your F801. But the CP5700 isn't a DSLR.it has a

My 801 isn't a DSLR either, and no, I don't expect the 5700 to act like it.

I want more: I expect it to be a light weght, hyper-advanced go-anywhere camera that I can use when I (a) don't want to lug two bodies and 5 lenses around (or just look after them in a difficult situation) or (b) want to be able shoot lots of high quality images and see the results quickly.

SLR-like format in that it has a TTL EVF, and lots of controls.
But we shouldn't be fooled into thinking that it's something it's not.

If it's not a light weght, hyper-advanced go-anywhere camera, then what is it?

You want--we ALL want--a top of the line, fully featured DSLR at a
cheap price. Guess what? An F5 (film) body goes for upwards of
$1600 (exclusive of lenses.)

And for a few $$ more (ok, a few hundred US$) you can buy a D100. That is next on my shopping list, btw.

them. And until I can afford a D1H (because I do a lot of sports
photography,) I can work with the few limitations of the CP5700.

And I can see the 5700 being a great camera for sporting photography. I'll be taking mine to the Melbourne F1GP in March ...

--
g.
Gary Stark
[email protected]
Down under in Sydney, Oz.

 

[kecohen]

if you were to use your camera a 200mm, it would
perform just as well as any other.

But that's my point. It quite simply doesn't.

Mine does.

I suspect that you're making the assumption that I'm shooting at
full extension, and yes, sometimes I am.

Sometimes.

So why not try to back off the zoom just a bit. See if that doesn't help. Since the aperture closes down the further you zoom, letting more light in should help you get focus lock. The camera is also able to sample a larger field of view in order to find acceptable contrast.Then with the shutter half pressed, you could zoom back and then release.

And I would respectfully suggest that a tripod would make no
difference whatsoever in some of the conditions under which I'm
shooting.

Have you tried?

The fix for this set of circumstances is a bigger brighter lens,
not a firmware upgrade.

Perhaps, but I think not. We're not talking about exposure; we're
talking about focussing.

Oh, sure it is. Cameras operate on how much light is actually reflected off the subject. The wider the aperture, the more of that reflected light actually gets through to the sensor. If you don't believe it, just try with any SLR to focus in a dark room at F11 or F16. Were you aware that for the CP5700, the max f/8 is approximately equivalent to f/22 in a 35mm SLR?
Extrapolate that to f/4.2...what's the equivalent?

Actually, I believe it is (but certainly not a high powered one),
yes it can, and it most certainly does.

You can set it that way in manual mode, but in programmed auto it
isn't.

Er, no.

I just tried to induce camera shake with the 5700 set on P/norm.
Swinging the camera wildly - almost violently - about, and with no
regard whatsover to focus, failed to give me any images where I
could see evidence of camera shake.

At what aperture, shutter and focal distance?

A great deal. The weight for one thing, helps steady the camera.

Yep. That's helpful when making the exposure if it's going to be a
longish/handheld one, but for focussing, it makes little difference.

I disagree. Try the tripod and see.

While yes, there's more light coming in, the 801 is a very old
camera, and is far less sophisticated, and I expect with sensors
that are not anywhere near as sensitive as those in the 5700.

Which is why, if you have even imperceptible camera shake, it will have difficulty finding focus. In Continuous Focus, hold it as still as you can. Try it at different focal lengths. Listen for the sound, or just feel the vibration of the servo. It works more the longer your focal lenghth because every infinitessimal motion is magnified, intensified.

While the image size might be 4x the size, we're still talking in
terms of microscopic sizes with regards to the sensors. This aspect
really is a moot point.

We'll agree to leave it a moot point.

No ... gets in the way. I'm frequently at the foot of the stage, or
sometimes on the stage, and I can't risk getting anything caught
amongst any cables and such. Mind you, I love the Bogen (Manfrotto
for us down under) gear, and have a couple of very nice and sturdy
tripods.
And in reality, I don't believe it would help in this problem,
although it's something that I'm willing to play with.

The stage--lighted with spots? There should be more than enough light to focus on.

I think you got a bad camera. I take a lot of photos of stage performances in ambient light, NO flash. I use the monopod and I get excellent results.

My 801 isn't a DSLR either, and no, I don't expect the 5700 to act
like it.

No, your 801 is a film SLR, and you do want the CP5700 to perform just like it with the exception of the interchangeable lenses.

If it's not a light weght, hyper-advanced go-anywhere camera, then
what is it?

Ah, but it is all of that, it just can't give the performance of a SLR because it isn't a DSLR. For that you would have to buy a D100--and then you might be disappointed because the D100 shoots underexposed by about 1-2 stops.

And I can see the 5700 being a great camera for sporting
photography. I'll be taking mine to the Melbourne F1GP in March ...

Depends on the sport and the venue...but it can definitely handle most outdoor events. (the F1GP is an auto race, isn't it?)

--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.
Minolta 7000i, accessories and lenses, lenses, lenses; CP5700, TC15ED,
Kenko KUT-300 Hi, SB80X Speedlight, Epson Stylus 980N, Epson 7600
(shared), Epson Expression 1680 w/ transparency unit, Tamron Fotovix
60WU....
http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/

 

[Ron T]

Hello again Karen,

You can use the flash at high shutter sync. speeds up to 1/2000th by using a non-manual mode such as aperture priorty. The flash is very fast and it will freeze almost all movement. Use 1/2000th in aperture priorty mode for action freezing results. Try this test in aperture priorty, using flash in a fairly dark room, set the shutter speed to 1/30th and take a shot, now set to 1/2000th and take a shot, both will be propery exposed, now set the shutter to 1/4000th and take a shot, now it's underexposed, why, because the flash is slower than 1/4000th sec. and faster than 1/2000th. According to CK the flash speed does vary to control exposure.

The 5700 has a RED flash ready indicator "SB", short for strobe.

Ron T

 

[John McN]

If you say 1/30th picks up a pulse or breathing that is "imperceivable" to you, but not the camera....do you think at 1/8th that it could stop a whirring fanblade? by your logic, you woudn't think so.

Please dont try to tell me that the pulse or breathing of a human subject is even close to a 200rpm fan. And furthermore, if the photographer was the culprit, the wall behind the blurred subject would not be in focus.
Read the exif data in my example. The room was VERY dimly lit.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=4196976

 

[kecohen]

Hello again Karen,

You can use the flash at high shutter sync. speeds up to 1/2000th
by using a non-manual mode such as aperture priorty. The flash is
very fast and it will freeze almost all movement. Use 1/2000th in
aperture priorty mode for action freezing results. Try this test in
aperture priorty, using flash in a fairly dark room, set the
shutter speed to 1/30th and take a shot, now set to 1/2000th and
take a shot, both will be propery exposed, now set the shutter to
1/4000th and take a shot, now it's underexposed, why, because the
flash is slower than 1/4000th sec. and faster than 1/2000th.
According to CK the flash speed does vary to control exposure.

The 5700 has a RED flash ready indicator "SB", short for strobe.

Ron T

Hi Ron,

I understand that the flash speed controls exposure (light/dark), but it doesn't necessarily work like a strobe to freeze action. Here's how it was explained in school: the flash speed is only controlling the exposure so you might have a flash at 1/1000, but your shutter may be at 1/30. The shutter remains open, continuing to capture the image after the flash is gone.

That's why, unless you're setting your flash to synch with your shutter, you don't actually get the strobe effect, and you need to set your shutter to freeze the action (if that's your intention.) If you read through the whole of this thread, somewhere I told of my first experience with the camera and my best friend's help--I too thought that the flash should act as a strobe until he refreshed my memory and gave me some additional insights into digital vs film, and more specific differences pertaining to the CP5700.
--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.
Minolta 7000i, accessories and lenses, lenses, lenses; CP5700, TC15ED,
Kenko KUT-300 Hi, SB80X Speedlight, Epson Stylus 980N, Epson 7600
(shared), Epson Expression 1680 w/ transparency unit, Tamron Fotovix
60WU....
http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/

 

[John McN]

Here's why you're mistaken. Can't argue with proof.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=4196976

 

[Ron T]

Hello Karen,

Isn't an electronic flash using a Xenon tube called a Strobe?

Ron T

 

[Ron T]

Karen,

Sorry, I know it's shutter priorty but for some reason I typed aperture priorty. duh. kinda hard to use fast sync. that way....sorry.

Ron T

You can use the flash at high shutter sync. speeds up to 1/2000th
by using a non-manual mode such as aperture priorty. The flash is
very fast and it will freeze almost all movement. Use 1/2000th in
aperture priorty mode for action freezing results. Try this test in
aperture priorty, using flash in a fairly dark room, set the
shutter speed to 1/30th and take a shot, now set to 1/2000th and
take a shot, both will be propery exposed, now set the shutter to
1/4000th and take a shot, now it's underexposed, why, because the
flash is slower than 1/4000th sec. and faster than 1/2000th.
According to CK the flash speed does vary to control exposure.

The 5700 has a RED flash ready indicator "SB", short for strobe.

Ron T

 

[Mykl Devlin]

Yes it is, but you seem to be contradicting yourself when you say
"My camera has no difficulty as long as I do not zoom all the way
to the maximum 71.2"

Oh, my, Gary, the camera's lens does have some limits. It only
permits f/4.2 at full zoom!
Better than many comparable slr zooms that at f/5.6 at full zoom.
But in comparing it to other digitals that only give you a max of
200mm equiv., if you were to use your camera a 200mm, it would
perform just as well as any other.

On the one hand, you're saying that at full zoom you have a
problem, but OTOH, you're also saying that there is no problem if
it's used conditionally.

Not really, I'm saying that there are certain conditions under
which it would be nice to be able to use the camera at full zoom,
that are beyond its capacity without a tripod.

But Karen,

most of the people here are not talking about a fault a full zoom. I certainly am not. I am talking about a shot of a group of people in a small room lit by a normal house hold light bulb.

The lens is as wide an angle as you are going to get, and you end up with looks of nothing but boredom or annoyance on the people when you finally get to take a photo because it has taken 4 or 5 attempts to focus the camera.

This is independent of user mode, independent of any manual settings of aperture, and completely, completely independent of my heart rate.

This is a shot I can take first time, every time with my 3 year old sony digital, my 10 year old pentax SLR and any other camera that I have ever laid my hands on.

Mykl

 

[Mykl Devlin]

Perhaps, but I think not. We're not talking about exposure; we're
talking about focussing.

Oh, sure it is. Cameras operate on how much light is actually
reflected off the subject. The wider the aperture, the more of that
reflected light actually gets through to the sensor. If you don't
believe it, just try with any SLR to focus in a dark room at F11 or
F16.

Karen,

In nearly every example, an autofocus SLR will focus and let people look through the viewfinder with a wide open lens, The aperture will be as wide as possible. It is only after the shutter is pressed that the lens stops down to it set aperture. Otherwise when you looked through the view finder you would see the depth of field as it will occur in the photo.

The aperture does not make a shred of difference to focussing on an SLR because it has not yet changed. The DOF preview button availibe on some cameras will let you close the aperture up. But do you think they would put it on there if it were just a place to rest your finger?

What you have said there is simply not true.

Mykl

 

[GCam]

I don't like getting into the middle of debate, but the little lady is correct when she says that the subject is always moving. Years ago when Methuselah was shooting there was an illustration of this, but it has been so long ago that I cannot refer you to the source, except you can look at the photographs from the nineteenth century where the photographer had to pose his subjects, remove the lens cap-in the absence of a shutter- and ignite his flash powder to shoot. Thanks for the time. gc