New build - comments?

[Birk Binnard]

Time to replace my 5 year old system - I'm running Win10/64 current version. Here's my current parts list:

Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2666 MT/s (PC4-21300) SR x8 SODIMM 260-Pin Memory <== 2 of these

ARCTIC Freezer 12 – Compact and Quiet Semi Passive Tower CPU Cooler | 92 mm PWM Fan | for AMD AM4 and Intel 115x CPU | Recommended up to 130 W

TDP APEVIA X-QPACK3-NW-BK Micro ATX Cube Gaming/HTPC Case, Supports Video Card up to 320mm/ATX PS, USB3.0/USB2.0/HD Audio Ports, 1 x 140mm blue LED fan, Flip Open Design, Dust Filter–Black

GIGABYTE GeForce GT 1030 GV-N1030SL-2GL Silent Low Profile 2G <== supports my dual monitors

Samsung 970 EVO 250GB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD (MZ-V7E250BW) <== Boot drive only; no data

Antec HCG750 Bronze Power Supply 750 Watts 80 Plus Bronze PSU with 135mm Quiet DBB Fan, Full Modular, 100% Japanese Capacitors, Active PFC, 5 Years Warranty, ATX12V 2.4

ASUS LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 mATX Motherboard


Intel Core i7-8700 Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 4.6 GHz LGA 1151 300 Series 65W

My plan is to restore my current boot drive to the new SSD and hope I don't have to spend hours on the phone with Microsoft getting the system to be authorized/authenticated. Assuming I can do that I'll move my 2 current data drives, optical drive, and multi-card reader to the new system.

 

[Austinian]

Time to replace my 5 year old system - I'm running Win10/64 current version. Here's my current parts list:

Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2666 MT/s (PC4-21300) SR x8 SODIMM 260-Pin Memory <== 2 of these

Will those SODIMMs fit on that motherboard?

ASUS LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 mATX Motherboard

 

[Birk Binnard]

Motherboard specs are for DDR4 SIMMs. Is there something else to heck for?

 

[Austinian]

Motherboard specs are for DDR4 SIMMs. Is there something else to heck for?

Looking at pictures of the motherboard, the slots look like they want regular 288-pin DIMMs rather than the 260-pin SODIMMs that usually go in laptops and AIO PCs.

And this ASUS PRIME B360M-A LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 mATX Motherboard I see specifies 288-pin memory:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119086#

I'm not certain, since I can't see your board in person, but I'd suggest you check just to be sure.

 

[nsr1111]

Unless you're on a tight budget, you may want to upgrade the graphics card. A 1030 is dated compared to what's out there now. You may be able to grab a 1070 on sale or some other updated option. Not sure if you are intending to go with the micro ATX case and build for space reasons, but you mention moving your additional drives as well. A micro ATX case might not be able to accommodate that many drive bays. I'm a big fan of Fractal Design and their cases. Since SSDs are cheap, you may want to consider adding another larger SSD and skip the mechanical drives as they all fail at some point. Just my opinion.

 

[Austinian]

My plan is to restore my current boot drive to the new SSD and hope I don't have to spend hours on the phone with Microsoft getting the system to be authorized/authenticated.

Ah, I forgot about that part of your post.

Since you're changing motherboards you probably will need reactivation. I suggest using the chat window their support page offers; that reduces the chances of accents and poor phone connections causing comprehension problems.

If your current Windows license is an OEM rather than retail, it's possible that reactivation will be refused and they'll tell you to buy a new license. Good luck.

 

[Birk Binnard]

Looking at pictures of the motherboard, the slots look like they want regular 288-pin DIMMs rather than the 260-pin SODIMMs that usually go in laptops and AIO PCs.

And this ASUS PRIME B360M-A LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 mATX Motherboard I see specifies 288-pin memory:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119086#

I'm not certain, since I can't see your board in person, but I'd suggest you check just to be sure.

Thanks for pointing that out - you are correct. So I switched to 2 Patriot Viper Elite Series DDR4 8GB sticks.

 

[Birk Binnard]

Unless you're on a tight budget, you may want to upgrade the graphics card. A 1030 is dated compared to what's out there now.

I hear you, but but I wanted a fanless card and my current GT-750 works fine for my needs - I find that 30fps on my 27" 4K monitor works just fine.

 

[Birk Binnard]

Yup - I do expect some degree of hassle from MS. My Win10 was a free upgrade from Win7, so that should count for something (I hope.) I hadn't thought about using the Chat Window - that makes sense. I'm keeping fingers crossed.....

 

[Robert Zanatta]

If your Win7 was OEM, reactivation will likely fail.

 

[bmoag]

The 1030 is a waste of money vis a vis Intel Graphics on the CPU which will drive even a 4k monitor. The minimum GPU that adds value is an nVidia 1050 or AMD 550 but at current sale prices the AMD 580 (less than $200) may be the most cost effective GPU.

Believe it or not it is quite possible that your plan to simply boot with your current operating system will update itself with appropriate drivers and is well worth trying. I presume you have researched the optimal way do do it. You have nothing to lose by trying but I would image (e.g. the free version of Macrium) or clone that drive first as the update process can render the drive unbootable if something goes south.

I have known several people who have succeeded at what you propose with the version of Win 10 installed being from the free upgrade MS offered when they first came out with Win 10. Admittedly I do not know if these were OEM copies of Win 7/8 that had been upgraded to Win 10, or if that makes any difference.

 

[itguy08]

The new Ryzen 7 2700E may be a little faster, will give you more cores, and will use less power. And it will be cheaper. The 2700 would be a little faster and use the same power.

I'd rather have more cores than less, especially if you do video or like to multitask.

Is your current boot drive NVMe? There have been issues going from SATA to NVMe on the boot drive with Windows 10. At a minimum you may need to install the NVMe drivers for Windows before the final shutdown.

 

[sam45]

Looks like you are on the correct track with help, so nothing much to add except for comments:

The 500GB 970 EVO has a faster rated write speed, vs the 250GB version (if it matters to you).

Not a fan of Patriot memory, because they gave me the trifecta failure in the past: ECC DDR , SSD drive, and a flash drive (no more Fry's special for me, haha). Good customer service on the DDR memory replacement.

Have fun on the build.

 

[Robert Zanatta]

I cloned from SATA to NVMe on the boot drive and Windows 10 started properly.

 

[Robert Zanatta]

Your GTX 750 is likely as fast as the GTX 1030; maybe just use the old GPU?

 

[sludge21017]

I ditched my 780Ti to get h265 decoding with a 1080Ti 3 months ago.

 

[Birk Binnard]

The 1030 is a waste of money vis a vis Intel Graphics on the CPU which will drive even a 4k monitor.

That's interesting. I have 2 monitors, one of which is 4K (Primary) and on that is 1980 x 1200 (Secondary). I'm not clear on whether or not the Intel graphics built in to the CPU can support both monitors at the same time.

The minimum GPU that adds value is an nVidia 1050 or AMD 550 but at current sale prices the AMD 580 (less than $200) may be the most cost effective GPU.

Believe it or not it is quite possible that your plan to simply boot with your current operating system will update itself with appropriate drivers and is well worth trying. I presume you have researched the optimal way do do it. You have nothing to lose by trying but I would image (e.g. the free version of Macrium) or clone that drive first as the update process can render the drive unbootable if something goes south.

My plan is to make a Macrium image of my existing boot drive and restore it to the new system's SSD. I know I can do a clean install but I will try very hard not to do that.

I have known several people who have succeeded at what you propose with the version of Win 10 installed being from the free upgrade MS offered when they first came out with Win 10. Admittedly I do not know if these were OEM copies of Win 7/8 that had been upgraded to Win 10, or if that makes any difference.

My Win10 was an in place upgrade from 8.1 which was an in place upgrade from 7. I don't remember of my Win7 was OEM or not.

 

[Birk Binnard]

The new Ryzen 7 2700E may be a little faster, will give you more cores, and will use less power. And it will be cheaper. The 2700 would be a little faster and use the same power.

I've never had anything other than Intel CPUs and I don't want to start now. But your points are well taken,

I'd rather have more cores than less, especially if you do video or like to multitask.

My heavy CPU usage is video editing and 3D part design for 3D printing. I don't do much multitasking and so far there is only minimal multi-threading in the software I use.

Is your current boot drive NVMe? There have been issues going from SATA to NVMe on the boot drive with Windows 10. At a minimum you may need to install the NVMe drivers for Windows before the final shutdown.

My current boot drive is an SATA SSD, I've read about the SATA/NVMe issues, but those seem to have been resolved with the latest versions of Windows. I guess I'll find out if this is true or not.

 

[Birk Binnard]

The 500GB 970 EVO has a faster rated write speed, vs the 250GB version (if it matters to you).

My boot drive is only OS and apps and I expect it will never need more than 100GB total. Given that I'm more concerned about read speed tan write speed. I'd have got a 128GB if one was available.

Not a fan of Patriot memory, because they gave me the trifecta failure in the past: ECC DDR , SSD drive, and a flash drive.

Hmmm....maybe I'll switch for a different brand. Thanks.

 

[A J Fresnel]

Antec HCG750 Bronze Power Supply 750 Watts 80 Plus Bronze PSU with 135mm Quiet DBB Fan, Full Modular, 100% Japanese Capacitors, Active PFC, 5 Years Warranty, ATX12V 2.4

That PSU is WAAAYYY overdimensioned. With your proposed build, 350W is ample, maybe 450W is You step up the GPU. Saves money, or go for a more efficient one.

More Watts does not mean better, and 750W only makes sense if You overclock the CPU hard AND go for a 300W GPU.

Also, I would agree with the itguy about the Ryzen 2700 (not E). When it's faster CPU for cheaper (plus cheaper MB) and more cores vs "I always used the other brand"... Would be easy for me. But in the end, it's most important that You LIKE the build, and if only one brand can do that, it makes sense to go for that.