I find that back dial so hard to move (especially to the right)-- it's very stiff. I tried switching to the side dial to change aperture and shutter speed but that requires multiple button presses lol. If the side dial is used for changing aperture and shutter speed it can't be used for manual focus can it?
I find that back dial so hard to move (especially to the right)-- it's very stiff. I tried switching to the side dial to change aperture and shutter speed but that requires multiple button presses lol. If the side dial is used for changing aperture and shutter speed it can't be used for manual focus can it?
Thanks! I was worried I should get a replacement so the more input the better!
Hopefully just a one time glitch of the shutter button and EVF. But see, I had done the same thing you did-- the camera was idle for an hour I had it on the entire time. I was testing out different settings in Manual exposure mode (without taking any pictures) and saving different combinations of settings for C-1 through C-3. Then I switched over to C mode to take a few test pictures and the problem happened after only 4-5 pictures were taken at between 1/500 to 1/800 sec shutter speed.
Hopefully just a one time glitch of the shutter button and EVF. But see, I had done the same thing you did-- the camera was idle for an hour I had it on the entire time. I was testing out different settings in Manual exposure mode (without taking any pictures) and saving different combinations of settings for C-1 through C-3. Then I switched over to C mode to take a few test pictures and the problem happened after only 4-5 pictures were taken at between 1/500 to 1/800 sec shutter speed.That’s an awful lot of button pressing and back and forth etc , maybe why I just use p mode half press then fully press shutter . Image captured , move on to next shotMy camera experienced its first glitch (I've had it for less than a month.) I hope this was just a one off overheating issue, but I want to describe it to be sure.
After playing around with the camera for about an hour testing out different settings in manual exposure mode, I switched over to Custom mode to take some pictures and see the effects of my settings changes. I had also switched over to manual focusing because I wanted to see how well the side button can do AF lock in manual focus mode. I took a few pictures both with AF lock through the side button and also using the side wheel for fine focus (PIP display) and then going back to the side button for AF lock. I also tested out my new zebra stripes settings which cycle through zebra2 (100%), off and zebra1 (50%). I took maybe 5-10 pictures at different shutter speeds between 1/500 sec and 1/800 sec (the rear wheel is still as stiff as hell lol.) All of a sudden as I was moving the camera around I noticed severe artifacting and discoloration on the EVF that made it look like a kaleidoscope!I noticed it happened whenever I moved the camera around as if the EVF was too slow to update for the movement and it also happened in the instant I pressed a function button but it would clear up in a few seconds (as if the display was trying to catch up). At the same time, the shutter button would not work, I tried to take pictures but it just would not do it. All the other buttons worked fine-- all the function buttons, the side button, the side wheel, rear wheel, and I could go into image review and see the pictures I had already taken prior to the shutter button and display freezing on me. Since our cameras are really miniature computers and I've seen this kind of thing on computers before happen when their memory is overloaded or they are overheating (or both) I decided to turn my camera off and back on. When I did so, the problem was gone and the shutter button was working fine. I then left it off for an hour and then used the camera for an hour, messing with the settings and the function buttons and manual focus mode, etc, just like before, and the problem did not happen again. Everything seems to be back to normal.
So my question is, do you think this was just a one off problem that happened because the camera overheated and that's why I couldn't press the shutter button and my EVF was artifacting and looking like a discolored kaleidoscope? None of this happened when I turned the camera off and back on and no sign of this behavior an hour later when I used the camera for another hour (at the end of that hour the low battery sign did appear though.) I'm hoping this problem doesn't happen again and there was no damage (like dead pixels, stuck pixels, etc.) and this isn't something I need to get the camera looked at or repaired or anything...just a temporary overheating situation? Which puzzles me because I thought the camera automatically turns off when it's overheated lol.
Pre Burst and the other 2 4K Photo modes are indeed for different uses.
No matter how fast the Burst (the fastest indeed is shooting with reduced size), the 10~ fps will hardly overheat a camera. Indeed the buffer size and file writing speed will limit the number of usual still burst shots as well. Had you ever succeeded on using Burst H non stop for 30 minutes?
Then I think I know what might have caused the overheating of my camera! The nonstop changing of settings and saving different groups of settings for an hour and then after that taking a few test pictures to see the effects of the new settings. So it looks like the act of constantly saving new information and overwriting old information in the buffer is what causes the camera to overheat?Pre Burst and the other 2 4K Photo modes are indeed for different uses.
The 4K Burst or SS, are actually regular video shootings. It is therefore subject to the restriction of usual 4K video recording of the model concerned. It will rarely overheat the camera.
Pre burst is different. It starts recording 4K @30fps when the feature is enabled. The camera will keep the 1" footage (30 frames) in buffer on rolling stock basis and will be saved only we actually shot. After we hit the shutter button, that 30 frames, together with another 30 frames took during the firing in next 1", total 60 frames will be saved to card.
This 1" footage before actual firing is used to compensate for our human response time (see and fire). So we shall not miss the capturing of the happening of an incident. If using the other 2 4K photo modes usually either we have to start the recording well before the incident happen (might get many useless frames) or if we see and fire, we might miss the critical moment of happening.
Pre Burst is very similar to the Pro Capture of higher end Olympus cameras. The benefit of Panny Pre Burst is any 4K supported camera and any AF lens can enjoy it without buffer size restriction.
The issue is once when Pre Burst is enabled, the recording start and will be kept in the buffer on rolling stock basis. i.e. every frame recorded 1" ago will be replaced by the 31 frames later. It means a non stop writing and erasing of data inside the buffer until we actually take the shot. Not difficult to imagine the heat that will be generated by this specific shooting mode. Interesting enough, this will have no built in recording time restriction as 4K video & other 2 4K Photo modes...
No matter how fast the Burst (the fastest indeed is shooting with reduced size), the 10~ fps will hardly overheat a camera. Indeed the buffer size and file writing speed will limit the number of usual still burst shots as well. Had you ever succeeded on using Burst H non stop for 30 minutes?
I hope electronic shutter doesn't cause dead or stuck pixels either, as without pixel mapping I don't have a way to map them out on this camera, unlike with my Olympus cameras. I'm not sure the electronic shutter on my EM10Mk2 or long burst shooting caused any dead or stuck pixels either, but I do run pixel mapping every few months or once a year. I notice a stuck pixel on the LCD and sometimes multiple stuck pixels, but those are only on the LCD (perhaps the LCD itself overheats if the camera is on for awhile?) But that has no effect on the sensor or other parts of the camera?
YesThen I think I know what might have caused the overheating of my camera! The nonstop changing of settings and saving different groups of settings for an hour and then after that taking a few test pictures to see the effects of the new settings. So it looks like the act of constantly saving new information and overwriting old information in the buffer is what causes the camera to overheat?Pre Burst and the other 2 4K Photo modes are indeed for different uses.
The 4K Burst or SS, are actually regular video shootings. It is therefore subject to the restriction of usual 4K video recording of the model concerned. It will rarely overheat the camera.
Pre burst is different. It starts recording 4K @30fps when the feature is enabled. The camera will keep the 1" footage (30 frames) in buffer on rolling stock basis and will be saved only we actually shot. After we hit the shutter button, that 30 frames, together with another 30 frames took during the firing in next 1", total 60 frames will be saved to card.
This 1" footage before actual firing is used to compensate for our human response time (see and fire). So we shall not miss the capturing of the happening of an incident. If using the other 2 4K photo modes usually either we have to start the recording well before the incident happen (might get many useless frames) or if we see and fire, we might miss the critical moment of happening.
Pre Burst is very similar to the Pro Capture of higher end Olympus cameras. The benefit of Panny Pre Burst is any 4K supported camera and any AF lens can enjoy it without buffer size restriction.
The issue is once when Pre Burst is enabled, the recording start and will be kept in the buffer on rolling stock basis. i.e. every frame recorded 1" ago will be replaced by the 31 frames later. It means a non stop writing and erasing of data inside the buffer until we actually take the shot. Not difficult to imagine the heat that will be generated by this specific shooting mode. Interesting enough, this will have no built in recording time restriction as 4K video & other 2 4K Photo modes...
No matter how fast the Burst (the fastest indeed is shooting with reduced size), the 10~ fps will hardly overheat a camera. Indeed the buffer size and file writing speed will limit the number of usual still burst shots as well. Had you ever succeeded on using Burst H non stop for 30 minutes?
I did not know that about Pre Burst, I thought it is only activated when you half press the shutter? So it is always on in the background when you activate that mode in the settings?
If you shutter release has been set to focused, for some reason when your camera can't set a focus, it will refuse to take a shot. I guess it might be part of your finding.
If not recurrent issue, service center might do no good but just wasting your time.
Sensors of modern days are quit resilient. A few times over heating, if had escaped the over heating protection of the camera, might not affect your sensor permanently. Have you found dead pixel on output?
So far I had done once on G1 after it jumped into a river, well dried and used again a few days later. I did not find any evidence of dead pixel on output, just did it for a peace of mind.No pixel mapping on this camera
Might be, hard to say...
Rarely heard because of the restriction on gear used, not always max fps and not many owners actually use it.
No it can take pictures without being focused, it is set to release priority. I see the FZ300 has SH speed also, but it's not pre burst.YesThen I think I know what might have caused the overheating of my camera! The nonstop changing of settings and saving different groups of settings for an hour and then after that taking a few test pictures to see the effects of the new settings. So it looks like the act of constantly saving new information and overwriting old information in the buffer is what causes the camera to overheat?Pre Burst and the other 2 4K Photo modes are indeed for different uses.
The 4K Burst or SS, are actually regular video shootings. It is therefore subject to the restriction of usual 4K video recording of the model concerned. It will rarely overheat the camera.
Pre burst is different. It starts recording 4K @30fps when the feature is enabled. The camera will keep the 1" footage (30 frames) in buffer on rolling stock basis and will be saved only we actually shot. After we hit the shutter button, that 30 frames, together with another 30 frames took during the firing in next 1", total 60 frames will be saved to card.
This 1" footage before actual firing is used to compensate for our human response time (see and fire). So we shall not miss the capturing of the happening of an incident. If using the other 2 4K photo modes usually either we have to start the recording well before the incident happen (might get many useless frames) or if we see and fire, we might miss the critical moment of happening.
Pre Burst is very similar to the Pro Capture of higher end Olympus cameras. The benefit of Panny Pre Burst is any 4K supported camera and any AF lens can enjoy it without buffer size restriction.
The issue is once when Pre Burst is enabled, the recording start and will be kept in the buffer on rolling stock basis. i.e. every frame recorded 1" ago will be replaced by the 31 frames later. It means a non stop writing and erasing of data inside the buffer until we actually take the shot. Not difficult to imagine the heat that will be generated by this specific shooting mode. Interesting enough, this will have no built in recording time restriction as 4K video & other 2 4K Photo modes...
No matter how fast the Burst (the fastest indeed is shooting with reduced size), the 10~ fps will hardly overheat a camera. Indeed the buffer size and file writing speed will limit the number of usual still burst shots as well. Had you ever succeeded on using Burst H non stop for 30 minutes?
I did not know that about Pre Burst, I thought it is only activated when you half press the shutter? So it is always on in the background when you activate that mode in the settings?
If you shutter release has been set to focused, for some reason when your camera can't set a focus, it will refuse to take a shot. I guess it might be part of your finding.
Pro (no miss shooting) and con (not good for BIF etc) of this feature.
If not recurrent issue, service center might do no good but just wasting your time.
Sensors of modern days are quit resilient. A few times over heating, if had escaped the over heating protection of the camera, might not affect your sensor permanently. Have you found dead pixel on output?
My first digital camera,Panny LC5 which was 20 years with me, still has a healthy sensor...
So far I had done once on G1 after it jumped into a river, well dried and used again a few days later. I did not find any evidence of dead pixel on output, just did it for a peace of mind.No pixel mapping on this camera
Might be, hard to say...
Rarely heard because of the restriction on gear used, not always max fps and not many owners actually use it.
G9, has similar feature to Oly's Pro capture, the SH Pre burst, for high speed pure still based shooting. SH can use any AF lens for the max fps. On DPR no overheating was ever noted. I guess Oly might do similarly good since by the end, they are all flagship class models.
How long can those SH rates be sustained for and are they at full resolution?
Here's an alternate explanation.... could it be that the battery power was running low and that's what caused the shutter button not to work and the EVF artifacting?
I just hope this doesn't impact long exposures when I do astrophotography and stacking.
Here's an alternate explanation.... could it be that the battery power was running low and that's what caused the shutter button not to work and the EVF artifacting?That’s an awful lot of button pressing and back and forth etc , maybe why I just use p mode half press then fully press shutter . Image captured , move on to next shotMy camera experienced its first glitch (I've had it for less than a month.) I hope this was just a one off overheating issue, but I want to describe it to be sure.
After playing around with the camera for about an hour testing out different settings in manual exposure mode, I switched over to Custom mode to take some pictures and see the effects of my settings changes. I had also switched over to manual focusing because I wanted to see how well the side button can do AF lock in manual focus mode. I took a few pictures both with AF lock through the side button and also using the side wheel for fine focus (PIP display) and then going back to the side button for AF lock. I also tested out my new zebra stripes settings which cycle through zebra2 (100%), off and zebra1 (50%). I took maybe 5-10 pictures at different shutter speeds between 1/500 sec and 1/800 sec (the rear wheel is still as stiff as hell lol.) All of a sudden as I was moving the camera around I noticed severe artifacting and discoloration on the EVF that made it look like a kaleidoscope!
So my question is, do you think this was just a one off problem that happened because the camera overheated and that's why I couldn't press the shutter button and my EVF was artifacting and looking like a discolored kaleidoscope? None of this happened when I turned the camera off and back on and no sign of this behavior an hour later when I used the camera for another hour (at the end of that hour the low battery sign did appear though.) I'm hoping this problem doesn't happen again and there was no damage (like dead pixels, stuck pixels, etc.) and this isn't something I need to get the camera looked at or repaired or anything...just a temporary overheating situation? Which puzzles me because I thought the camera automatically turns off when it's overheated lol.
Wow this is nice! Was this with the FZ300? You didn't use i-zoom or anything else (no TC, etc?)To me the only useful one is the pre burst so I don’t have tons of images to scroll through .
I only used it on kingfisher images waiting for them to dive for food , so not used that often .
As a rule in a 1 shot 1 kill type of photographer using centre af point and AFS . It’s not for everybody but it works for me .
Yes this was taken with fz330 using lt-55 and izoom and it’s due to the low quality of this shot that I got the P950 which can also get these types of shots but with far better feather detail.Wow this is nice! Was this with the FZ300? You didn't use i-zoom or anything else (no TC, etc?)To me the only useful one is the pre burst so I don’t have tons of images to scroll through .
I only used it on kingfisher images waiting for them to dive for food , so not used that often .
As a rule in a 1 shot 1 kill type of photographer using centre af point and AFS . It’s not for everybody but it works for me .
Can you get these kind of shots with your P950 too?
But you don't do BIF at 2000mm on the P950 do you, Paul? From what I've read, BIF should be done at 1200mm and below because of the speed of the bird flying. Unless this raptor was hovering in one spot looking for prey?Yes this was taken with fz330 using lt-55 and izoom and it’s due to the low quality of this shot that I got the P950 which can also get these types of shots but with far better feather detail.Wow this is nice! Was this with the FZ300? You didn't use i-zoom or anything else (no TC, etc?)To me the only useful one is the pre burst so I don’t have tons of images to scroll through .
I only used it on kingfisher images waiting for them to dive for food , so not used that often .
As a rule in a 1 shot 1 kill type of photographer using centre af point and AFS . It’s not for everybody but it works for me .
Can you get these kind of shots with your P950 too?
nope there’s no law says you can’t use whatever focal range you need .But you don't do BIF at 2000mm on the P950 do you, Paul? From what I've read, BIF should be done at 1200mm and below because of the speed of the bird flying. Unless this raptor was hovering in one spot looking for prey?Yes this was taken with fz330 using lt-55 and izoom and it’s due to the low quality of this shot that I got the P950 which can also get these types of shots but with far better feather detail.Wow this is nice! Was this with the FZ300? You didn't use i-zoom or anything else (no TC, etc?)To me the only useful one is the pre burst so I don’t have tons of images to scroll through .
I only used it on kingfisher images waiting for them to dive for food , so not used that often .
As a rule in a 1 shot 1 kill type of photographer using centre af point and AFS . It’s not for everybody but it works for me .
Can you get these kind of shots with your P950 too?
It is 2040 equivalent but actually has less magnification than the P950 at 2000mm
Less magnification because the LT-55 is actually 1.45x not 1.7x correct? I think someone said that in here.....nope there’s no law says you can’t use whatever focal range you need .But you don't do BIF at 2000mm on the P950 do you, Paul? From what I've read, BIF should be done at 1200mm and below because of the speed of the bird flying. Unless this raptor was hovering in one spot looking for prey?Yes this was taken with fz330 using lt-55 and izoom and it’s due to the low quality of this shot that I got the P950 which can also get these types of shots but with far better feather detail.Wow this is nice! Was this with the FZ300? You didn't use i-zoom or anything else (no TC, etc?)To me the only useful one is the pre burst so I don’t have tons of images to scroll through .
I only used it on kingfisher images waiting for them to dive for food , so not used that often .
As a rule in a 1 shot 1 kill type of photographer using centre af point and AFS . It’s not for everybody but it works for me .
Can you get these kind of shots with your P950 too?
I’ve done it at 3000mm on a P1000 and then cropped it as well as it was over some distant fields .
P1000 cropped the crap out of it as well
It is 2040 equivalent but actually has less magnification than the P950 at 2000mm
