Macro and close up solutions

[gil]

using enlarger lens. Mounted the enlarger lens to a helicoid (I used a M42 helicoid and then M42 to NEX mount adapter). Some samples from NEXF3 below. I still need to try this setup with the A6000 and A6300.

All pics in jpg, basic PP, hand held and no stacking. For the on-board flash, I think I remember using DIY diffuser (either a napkin or aluminum foil).

Cheers and keep on experimenting/shooting.

gil

With on-board flash.

With on-board flash.

Natural light

natural light

I used front end achromats as well (similar to the Raynox) from Olympus, Nikon, Minolta, other brands. Some samples from achromats on the 18-55mm.

--
Cheers,
gil - San Jose, CA
Cheap Lens, JPG and 100% Handholding Provocateur
Like happiness, photography is often better created than pursued.

 

[csintexas]

So late yesterday I got the Meike tube sets in.

http://www.amazon.com/Meike®-Automa...4532054&sr=8-1&keywords=meike+extension+tubes

This is a two piece set with 10mm and 16mm and has electronic pass through. They are plastic so no telling what the durability will be but probably need to be treated gently.

I did not see an electronic set that had the longer 26mm tube so I bought two sets because I wanted to see about getting the 5018 to 1:1

IQ wise I expected this to perform better than the Raynox because of no added glass but I really am not seeing much if any penalty from the Raynox

-I actually had a bit more success with the Raynox but that could have been user error

The subject range for the 5018 + 10mm tube is 2-5/16" to 4-3/8"

If you put all tubes on (52mm) the range is 3/4" to 7/8" (a bit better than 1:1)

(which makes working with all tubes very difficult.)

Also with all tubes on cuts about 1-1/2 stops of light out (which the Raynox does not do)

These two can also be combined in various forms.

I had read that it was not practical to use tubes on longer focal lengths but I went ahead and tried them on the 55-210 as well.

Zoomed all the way out to 210 +52mm the subject size was about 1-1/2" to 4" surprisingly it keeps the distance from lens to subject from 1ft to 3ft

(On it's own the 55-210 can get down to 4" subject)

I think this might be handy for something like Dragonflies etc..

It is still overcast and windy here so I have not tried field testing yet.

For fun I tried a 10mm section on my Rokinon 10mm lens -it would not focus

and the 16-50 kit lens + 26mm -will focus but at 16mm it is practically touching the subject.

Thanks to all who have contributed their solutions here.

--
-Chris
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cspics/albums

 

[csintexas]

Here is a comparison between the 5018 + Raynox250 and the 55-210 and 52mm of tubes





Both hand held.

The 5018 (left) is slightly better -some of the difference may have to do with where the focal plane is (hard to get exact hand held) but the nice thing about the 55-210 is that I made the shot standing up whereas I had to get on my knees and bend right over the flower with the 5018

My first impression with the 55-210 and tubes is that it offers quite a wide range with only slightly less quality.

Here is an example of range (I was not trying for maximum IQ -just range)

on the 55mm side it can get better than 1:1 (within an inch of touching subject)





and on the 210 side it can go out this far (about 3' from subject)











--
-Chris

Chris Stewart’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

 

[csintexas]

I was having fun with both tube sets on the 55-210 I took it out with me for my dog walk.


Blooming Turks Cap


Dandelion seedpuff

Had trouble finding cooperative insects -mostly they just wanted to bite me.

--
-Chris
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cspics/albums

 

[hex anon]

Hi Jim. You know, I have several legacy macro lenses, and all of them produce good images. That said, I recently picked up an inexpensive pair of macro extension tubes from Amazon. They are auto tubes with the electronic contacts, in e mount. I've gotten out once with them and the 50 1.8 and really like how they work and the images I get. This set is just two tubes, so I've been toying with the idea of buying a second set. By combining them, in different configurations, one should be able to get past 1:1 magnification. Anyhow, I like them a lot.

hex anon

 

[D Cox]

using enlarger lens. Mounted the enlarger lens to a helicoid (I used a M42 helicoid and then M42 to NEX mount adapter). Some samples from NEXF3 below. I still need to try this setup with the A6000 and A6300.

All pics in jpg, basic PP, hand held and no stacking. For the on-board flash, I think I remember using DIY diffuser (either a napkin or aluminum foil).

Cheers and keep on experimenting/shooting.

gil

This ant is a great shot. You wouldn't do better with thousands of dollars of special gear (90mm macro lens etc).

 

[hex anon]

Hi Chris, that's the same set of tubes I bought. I like them. I was thinking about getting a second set, too. I've only used them with the 50 1.8, but after reading your post, I'll have to give them a try with the 55-210.

hex anon

 

[csintexas]

Besides the small hit in IQ it is a fun combo

One thing I do not like much is the number of turns it takes to go from min to max focus on the 5018 but the 55-210 is very fast and also the zoom ring can act like a focus ring.

I tried the 55-210 with a few other tube combinations:

with 10mm -minimum subject size is 3" and maximum is about 2ft. distance from subject between 6" and around 12ft

with 26mm min 1-5/8" and max 7-3/4"

 

[Nikolausz]

Besides the small hit in IQ it is a fun combo

One thing I do not like much is the number of turns it takes to go from min to max focus on the 5018 but the 55-210 is very fast and also the zoom ring can act like a focus ring.

I tried the 55-210 with a few other tube combinations:

with 10mm -minimum subject size is 3" and maximum is about 2ft. distance from subject between 6" and around 12ft

with 26mm min 1-5/8" and max 7-3/4"

--
-Chris
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cspics/albums

The 55-210 works better with an achromatic lens in my opinion. It's also easier to take of (faster and no chance to have dust on the sensor)

Marcell (fiberstrobe)

 

[csintexas]

Yes, my conclusion so far is that the 55-210 is better than the 5018

With both sets of tubes (52mm) + the Raynox 250 it will do a bit better than 2:1

whereas the 5018 is still only a bit better that 1:1

here is that same spider I have been photographing:



The 55-210 image on the right is at a lower viewing scale. If I had brought the 5018 on the right up to the size of the 55-210 it would look worse but some of this happens to be where the focus plane is without macro rails and with the wind it is extremely hard to get a great focus.

The distance to subject was about 4" with the 55-210 and about 1" with the 5018

Here is a pic I took this morning under less than ideal conditions:




This is scaled down 50% but not cropped.











--
-Chris

Chris Stewart’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

 

[csintexas]

I was able to go for my walk this morning. It was still overcast with a little breeze. Yesterday I had spotted two nearly perfect Dandelion seed puffs and wanted to try and catch them with just a few seeds released and I found them in excellent condition.

This was with the 55-210 + 26mm tubes - and one with the Raynox250 in addition




with 250

Worked on the bees again but still not enough light but I am getting better using AF-C -I probably ought to try the on camera flash or maybe burst


could use faster shutter


Dandelion with Raynox


this flower was actually pink (has an abstract feel)




DayFlower

--
-Chris
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cspics/albums

 

[davelok]

Hi Chris, good shots, but time to upgrade your lighting setup!

I got a Neewer Meike flash for the NEX-6 last year, but haven't used it (except for testing it indoors). I hope to put it to use once the rains start here and it's time for macros. I'll also use it in slave mode with the Canon 70D, so that I don't have to buy another flash.

It came with a diffuser cover for the flash head, but I suspect it won't be effective. I'll either buy a cheap diffuser box, or try to build something myself.

 

[csintexas]

Yes I need one bad and I am in the process of trying to learn about them so that I can get something that works well.

I think that I could probably make due without TTL or wireless

Which one do you have and does it do high speed sync?

 

[davelok]

Hi Chris, I have the Neewer (Meike) NW320 speedlight. It doesn't do high speed sync and is not the best one could buy, but it's good value for money as compared to the Sony HVLF20M.

 

[csintexas]

It looks like the only option to get high speed sync is a TTL flash

I guess most macro subjects are fairly still though so I do not think it is really worth the $40+ price difference to get HSS just for macro.

I did realize that using the 55-210 allowed me to get far enough away from the subject to use the camera flash. It is most effective between 1-1.5ft in daylight and I got real close to getting a bee in flight but 1/200 was not fast enough.



Otherwise though we had some actual sun light yesterday for a change



so that helped the bee shots (you can see the harsh reflections from the flash -needs diffuser)

Finally found a moth that was mostly still



I do not think this setup is as good as a dedicated prime macro lens but I was able to take this picture from more than 2ft away so I really like the long FL.

--
-Chris
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cspics/albums

 

[davelok]

Yes, it's a workable compromise. Other lenses are just too costly or not as convenient.

There is a new Meike flash coming up that has HSS. I don't know what it will cost though.

I think you ought to get a good diffuser first, rather than get an HSS flash. It would be more useful for your shots, and now is the season for them!

By the way, the 320 flash that I told you about earlier is also TTL, but no HSS.

 

[Stflbn]

I actually prefer the APS-C a6300 over my full frame A7ii for macro use.

































--
Sony A7ii A6300 A7s A7r
28 FE f2 | Sony 55 FE 1.8 | 70-200G FE F4 | 24-240 FE | Sony 90mm FE Macro

http://501concepts.com

 

[Pixel Pooper]

You don't want HSS for macro. The idea is to use a single flash pulse with its extremely short duration to freeze motion instead of shutter speed. Your exposure settings should produce a nearly black image with the flash off so that the image is made almost entirely with light from the flash. With this technique you can shoot bees in flight below 1/200 shutter speed. This one is at 1/125 shutter speed, but my flash duration is about 1/8000.


1/125, f/16, ISO 100

 

[csintexas]

Nice set

I guess those where all with the Sony 90mm macro?

I suppose that the greater DoF of crop sensors is an advantage in macro

 

[csintexas]

Great info thanks

Will any manual or TTL flash be able to adjust flash duration like that?