Luke (high key)

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After reading some prior threads on high-key images (including this one by Image Capturer: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57282967), I decided to try my hand at a high-key image.

Luke
Luke

I know that there is often a great deal of discussion on what, exactly, is meant by "high-key," so for reference, what I was going for is the type of high-key image described by Tony Field in the thread referenced above and on his page here: http://www.tphoto.ca/info/highkey/

My set-up was a single strobe into a reflective umbrella for the key light, and a speedlight directly behind the subject firing into a neutral gray wall to blow out the background.

This is the first time I have attempted this type of image, so any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
 
Top of head chopped off.

Also, am I seeing significant barrel distortion here?

How is that possible with a 75mm lens?

tedolph
 
About the hair, I think it would look better to crop in further, clipping more hair.
 
After reading some prior threads on high-key images (including this one by Image Capturer: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57282967), I decided to try my hand at a high-key image.

Luke
Luke

I know that there is often a great deal of discussion on what, exactly, is meant by "high-key," so for reference, what I was going for is the type of high-key image described by Tony Field in the thread referenced above and on his page here: http://www.tphoto.ca/info/highkey/

My set-up was a single strobe into a reflective umbrella for the key light, and a speedlight directly behind the subject firing into a neutral gray wall to blow out the background.

This is the first time I have attempted this type of image, so any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
Amazing .... that definition page was written years ago. This is the first time I have ever seen it referenced :) :)

I think this is a very good first attempt at High Key. It is pretty close but does need a bit more attention of the shadow side of the face and the tones in the hair. For a high key portrait, I would try to have the eyes as the principle "black" while other tones vary in the higher whiter values. For high key, the principle dark tones should capture what could be considered as the item of interest that attracts the eye (as with this photo) .... but that is not cast in stone ... it is a matter of interpretation

The various "Keys" in photography are not strictly defined - they are a matter of degree when trying to approach the "ideal" key shot. Some images clearly fall into one of the three keys... some are marginal. If you are serious about making a good "key" shot, you really have to practice with lighting (available or artificial) until it finally click in your eyes. and establish the lighting and subject material that works for your chosen "key".

You will know when you succeed .... a good "key" shot will look almost perfect out of the camera. It is the choice of subject and lighting with only a little help from Photoshop.

--
Charles Darwin: "ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge."
tony
http://www.tphoto.ca
 
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Amazing .... that definition page was written years ago. This is the first time I have ever seen it referenced :) :)

I think this is a very good first attempt at High Key. It is pretty close but does need a bit more attention of the shadow side of the face and the tones in the hair. For a high key portrait, I would try to have the eyes as the principle "black" while other tones vary in the higher whiter values. For high key, the principle dark tones should capture what could be considered as the item of interest that attracts the eye (as with this photo) .... but that is not cast in stone ... it is a matter of interpretation
Thanks, Tony. I see what you mean about the hair and the shadows on the right side of the face. When I try this again, I'll try adding a reflector or another flash on those to open those shadows up.
 
Nice job - It seems a little soft but that could be the JPG or just me pixel peeping. :-)
Hi Karen-

Interesting. I felt like it was sufficiently sharp, at least at the focus point of the eyes. (I recently micro-focus adjusted this lens, which made a big difference, as it was backfocusing previously and I would get nice sharp ears and soft eyes.) When I try this again, I'll stop down further to make sure that I have sufficient DOF for the whole face.

 1:1 crop
1:1 crop

 
It's not like it's bad, so please don't take it the wrong way. Relative to the rest of the image the focus looks on plane so it's not DOF. Is this the Beercan lens? I always found it to be a touch soft even on my best copy. Blame it on JPG, or too much pixel peeping from an A7RII shooter. It''s a keeper regardless!
 
The background is overlit. Too much light bouncing back onto the subject.
 
It's not like it's bad, so please don't take it the wrong way. Relative to the rest of the image the focus looks on plane so it's not DOF. Is this the Beercan lens? I always found it to be a touch soft even on my best copy. Blame it on JPG, or too much pixel peeping from an A7RII shooter. It''s a keeper regardless!
Yes, it is indeed the beercan!
 
The background is overlit. Too much light bouncing back onto the subject.
Thanks, I was hoping you would comment! In the prior thread I referenced in the original post, you mentioned that the background should be about half a stop brighter than the subject. My background and subject in this image metered at almost exactly a 1:1 ratio (I think that they were within 1/10 of a stop of each other) yet I'm still getting spill bouncing back onto the subject.

There are windows with white blinds on either side of the grey wall I'm using as a background. I think it's possible that I'm getting some spill from the main light reflecting off of those blinds. I'm going to do some investigation of that over the weekend. If that's what's happening, I'm guessing I can solve the problem by using the black side of my 5-in-1 reflector to control the reflection. If it's coming from the back wall, I'll experiment with moving the subject further from the wall (although it's a very small room so there's a limit to how far I can go).

I appreciate everyone's input.
 
I don't know what all the criticism is with this image. I'm just sitting here, saying to myself, "Finally... an image that's properly exposed EVEN for a high key."

I love it. Sharp. Balanced. Separated. Engaged. LOVE IT. Keep up the good work. This is an image that goes straight to print. I love the asymmetry. I love the catch light. Great expression. I don't give a schit what anyone else says, this is a commercial grade image.
 
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I don't know what all the criticism is with this image. I'm just sitting here, saying to myself, "Finally... an image that's properly exposed EVEN for a high key."

I love it. Sharp. Balanced. Separated. Engaged. LOVE IT. Keep up the good work. This is an image that goes straight to print. I love the asymmetry. I love the catch light. Great expression. I don't give a schit what anyone else says, this is a commercial grade image.
...and what got me was the comment about it being soft, ugh please.
 
...and what got me was the comment about it being soft, ugh please.
Seriously, where are the thumbs down buttons when you need them?
 
Interesting. I felt like it was sufficiently sharp
It's tack sharp, don't listen to those idiots. They're same shooters who are constantly submitting underexposed, uncreatively lit, poorly composed images all the time.
 
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That's actually high-key.

And this should be portrait orientation. Either clip the hair or show it, this is in-between and not quite framed right. Love the mood though.
 
Whether these images are high key or simply pictures with white backgrounds I will let the purists decide. I am lighting my images posted here for my customers taste and which I know sell. I dont overlight the background just brighten it, and keep the light from splashing on the subjects face. All the photographs were taken with the background (a white shower curtain) lit from behind in my mobile studio which has limited space, 7ft wide by 14ft long including the taking and selling areas.







































 

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That's actually high-key.

And this should be portrait orientation. Either clip the hair or show it, this is in-between and not quite framed right. Love the mood though.
I think for printing and framing I will definitely do a portrait crop, and your point about clipping the hair is well-taken.



48ae73b70331470386b90fc35ca0feb0.jpg

I do tend to like the landscape crop for on-screen viewing, though.
 
My model wasn't available this morning (he was playing quietly, and when your 5-year old is playing quietly on a Saturday morning, you let him play). So, Nick stood in in his place.

I moved him slightly away from the wall compared to the picture of Luke from yesterday, and also reduced the background light by half a stop, which I think has eliminated the spill on the subject. I also used a white reflector to fill in the shadows.



 Ambient
Ambient





 Main light
Main light





 With background light
With background light





 With reflector.
With reflector.





 Final image.
Final image.
 

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