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I can walk down the street, there's no one thereThis is a straight jpeg taken today with the Z 50 in Prog/Auto. I think it's a plenty good image. If you disagree, it's a free world.The cameras you use produce terrible artifacts in JPEG, especially the D7100's noise reduction. Some people don't like that. Some people prefer to use far superior processing, to get the most out of their cameras.You’ve obviously had cameras that made some pretty nasty jpegs. That isn’t the case for many who’ve posted here, including me.
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The sensor in your camera has a fixed data recording capacity. The best possible exposure that will produce the best possible image quality is the exposure that utilizes the sensor's full capacity. If you leave any amount of the sensor's recording capacity unused you drop the SNR for that image. If you can expose to make full use of the sensor you get the best possible IQ.wow, I never realized that was how you shoot RAW. But have never tried it and doubt that I could figure all that out.
The question you have not addressed is "When is it important to squeeze every last bit of quality out of your camera?"The sensor in your camera has a fixed data recording capacity. The best possible exposure that will produce the best possible image quality is the exposure that utilizes the sensor's full capacity. If you leave any amount of the sensor's recording capacity unused you drop the SNR for that image. If you can expose to make full use of the sensor you get the best possible IQ.wow, I never realized that was how you shoot RAW. But have never tried it and doubt that I could figure all that out.
Circumstances like low light and no tripod can intervene and prohibit a best possible exposure. In that case we still want the photo so we do the best we can and expose as much as possible.
It's actually very simple and straightforward and makes taking photos easier than it's ever been -- way easier than shooting camera JPEGs. No matter what the subject and no matter what the lighting it's the same exposure -- place the brightest diffuse highlight at the sensor saturation threshold and click, or in low light with no tripod expose as much as possible.
I keep RAW files, l don't process every RAW file, there are 1,000s. If l process a RAW file then l save it as a PSD with all the layers, there maybe several different versions, as there are so many different things you can do. I only save them as JPEG if l want to compare different versions, on my screen.Yes, and this changes nothing.You are aware that raw files contain an embedded JPEG?I cannot imagine why someone would keep RAW files only. I know that some people do that, and use LR to view their photos, but I cannot understand the rationale for that. I process all my RAWs and have JPEGs for viewing.It doesn't matter when you do the processing. If you only keep the raw, and not a JPEG or TIFF, then you need to maintain a working version of the software in order to get at the edited image.Actually, LR keeps the old processes as an option. Not that this is a consideration because, as I said, you can, and most likely will process your images shortly after the shootout.
This isn't a work flow I use so it is entirely possible that the images converted in the camera are indistinguishable from those converted with the latest software. However, it is also possible that there is a visible difference. I'm simply pointing out that using the software conversion might yield a better image. You will notice that I qualified my comment, as shown in bold above.Not every photographer considers technical perfection to be the major factor in judging an image.Er, not necessarily. I shoot with Nikon D5s in the years since the D5 was launched Nikon has improved the raw converter. It is entirely possible that the 2025 converter will do a better job than the version in the camera. That might also be true for the Z8 and Z9. Given that the conversion is achieved by an ASIC which can't be updated, only replaced, even a Z9 coming off the production line on Monday won't have the same raw converter as NX Studio 1.9.1.Yes, one can batch process raw files with the manufacturer's software and get JPEGs that are an exact match for camera produced JPEGs. Of course, if that is what you are doing, then you can save some steps by just shooting JPEG.There is no much of an overhead with RAW. You need storage, which is cheap. You can generate JPEGs in batch mode if you do not want to process all the RAWs individually.Bringing this back to cameras, it's not a question of whether or not raw is "better". The question is whether the increase is enough to justify the increased overhead. The answer is going to depend on multiple factors, including the photographer's budget, his goals, and the abilities of his/her gear.
If a photographer is happy with the JPEGs produced by his camera, why is it important that he go to extra effort to get a marginal improvement in quality? For many images the difference may be measurable, but not visible to the naked eye.
One can make a reasonable argument that if a change in workflow doesn't make a visible difference, then any quality improvement from that change is inconsequential.
Yes about 20 years ago, when l started doing digital, l used JPEG, because l did not know how to use Photoshop. Also memory cards in those days were quite expensive. It is something l now regret as some of those could be processed now with modern software. Of course in those days DSLRs were not that good, anything over 400 ISO was noisy.I am of the opinion that one won't change the mind of a dedicated raw shooter to shoot JPEG nor that of a JPEG shooter to shoot raw. There are excellent arguments on both sides but unless one is prepared to accept the possibility that the counter to ones process may have merit it's just gum beating.
When I first got a digital camera I shot JPEG because it was easier than using Fuji's raw files. When I acquired a Nikon D2H I shot raw + JPEG but soon realised that I was filling up the memory card with JPEG files that I wasn't going to use because I could get more out of the raw file. That was 2006, much has changed since then but I remain unwilling to throw away data, which is what happens when a raw file is converted to JPEG.
There's a real benefit to consistent practice. Apply consistent practice and you get good at it. I like to use small light cameras and most commonly walk with an MFT sensor camera -- all the more important to expose for maximum advantage. There's also an element of satisfaction that comes from doing the best job you can do -- I like that. There's something disturbingly wrong with the position that it's OK to cut corners because it won't show.The question you have not addressed is "When is it important to squeeze every last bit of quality out of your camera?"The sensor in your camera has a fixed data recording capacity. The best possible exposure that will produce the best possible image quality is the exposure that utilizes the sensor's full capacity. If you leave any amount of the sensor's recording capacity unused you drop the SNR for that image. If you can expose to make full use of the sensor you get the best possible IQ.wow, I never realized that was how you shoot RAW. But have never tried it and doubt that I could figure all that out.
Circumstances like low light and no tripod can intervene and prohibit a best possible exposure. In that case we still want the photo so we do the best we can and expose as much as possible.
It's actually very simple and straightforward and makes taking photos easier than it's ever been -- way easier than shooting camera JPEGs. No matter what the subject and no matter what the lighting it's the same exposure -- place the brightest diffuse highlight at the sensor saturation threshold and click, or in low light with no tripod expose as much as possible.
I am never happy with the in-camera JPEG -- it is always inferior and unacceptable to me. And sure no argument about wider range of adjustments or heaven forbid salvaging images. I save and process raw files and optimize exposure because it produces superior results that I can always see. I maintain a consistent best-possible practice and derive satisfaction from a job well done.In various shooting situations, how far below the optimum exposure can you go before the unaided human eye can see a visible difference in the final image?
Obviously, there exist situations where it does make a visible difference, and situations where it doesn't. How common are each of these? If I am shooting outdoors on a cloudy day, will anyone see a difference between an image exposed to yield a good looking in-camera JPEG, and an image exposed to absolutely maximize SNR?
In situations where the difference isn't visible, and I am happy with the in-camera JPEG, what's the advantage of shooting raw?
Note: Answers of the form "raw allows you to make a wider range of adjustments and salvage many images..." are not applicable to the situation where I am happy with the in-camera JPEG.
With RAW you can use smart filters and luminously masking and all sorts of things. You can use different exposures for different areas of the image then blend together. Luminosity masks are a bit more advanced but some people use them a lot. Many JPEG's are lacking. If you expose for a bright sky, the foreground is going to be far too dark, unless you use ND grad filters.There's a real benefit to consistent practice. Apply consistent practice and you get good at it. I like to use small light cameras and most commonly walk with an MFT sensor camera -- all the more important to expose for maximum advantage. There's also an element of satisfaction that comes from doing the best job you can do -- I like that. There's something disturbingly wrong with the position that it's OK to cut corners because it won't show.The question you have not addressed is "When is it important to squeeze every last bit of quality out of your camera?"The sensor in your camera has a fixed data recording capacity. The best possible exposure that will produce the best possible image quality is the exposure that utilizes the sensor's full capacity. If you leave any amount of the sensor's recording capacity unused you drop the SNR for that image. If you can expose to make full use of the sensor you get the best possible IQ.wow, I never realized that was how you shoot RAW. But have never tried it and doubt that I could figure all that out.
Circumstances like low light and no tripod can intervene and prohibit a best possible exposure. In that case we still want the photo so we do the best we can and expose as much as possible.
It's actually very simple and straightforward and makes taking photos easier than it's ever been -- way easier than shooting camera JPEGs. No matter what the subject and no matter what the lighting it's the same exposure -- place the brightest diffuse highlight at the sensor saturation threshold and click, or in low light with no tripod expose as much as possible.
I am never happy with the in-camera JPEG -- it is always inferior and unacceptable to me. And sure no argument about wider range of adjustments or heaven forbid salvaging images. I save and process raw files and optimize exposure because it produces superior results that I can always see. I maintain a consistent best-possible practice and derive satisfaction from a job well done.In various shooting situations, how far below the optimum exposure can you go before the unaided human eye can see a visible difference in the final image?
Obviously, there exist situations where it does make a visible difference, and situations where it doesn't. How common are each of these? If I am shooting outdoors on a cloudy day, will anyone see a difference between an image exposed to yield a good looking in-camera JPEG, and an image exposed to absolutely maximize SNR?
In situations where the difference isn't visible, and I am happy with the in-camera JPEG, what's the advantage of shooting raw?
Note: Answers of the form "raw allows you to make a wider range of adjustments and salvage many images..." are not applicable to the situation where I am happy with the in-camera JPEG.
Nikon’s in-camera raw processing is another option to get it right in the field. The screen is small, and the process a bit clumsy, but it’s another option I’ve sometimes found useful. It’s also possible to use the in-camera editing with jpegs. On occasion I’ve found the D Lighting adjustment helpful for pulling up shadows.If that's something you worry about, then shoot raw.You may not know until after the image has been taken. So best to take both if you may use either. I'm glad l don't rely on JPEGs not being overexposured. I exposure to the right, so l want as much dynamic range as l can get. Most JPEG's are overexposed but most RAWs are not.It really is very simple.
Shoot JPEG when the camera produced JPEGs meet your needs. Shoot RAW when additional processing is required in order to get the desired result. If you are not sure, shoot RAW+JPEG to hedge your bets.
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People can argue all day about the additional options offered by raw. But that misses the fundamental point. Different photographers have different needs and goals.
For some photographers, in some situations, shooting JPEG is absolutely the right choice. For some photographers, in other situations, only raw will do.
The trick is knowing what situation you are in. Be wary of taking someone else's advice, as they may have different needs.
The camera produced JPEG may be the exact image one photographer wanted, yet it can be totally unacceptable to another.
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The rule of thumb is that if you are happy with camera produced JPEGs, and they are meeting your needs, then you can shoot JPEG. If you are unhappy with camera JPEGs and you don't mind processing the images yourself, then shoot raw.
If you can't make up you mind, then shoot RAW+JPEG.
However, if you are shooting JPEG, and don't run into that problem, then you are OK.
Now, one can argue that even if you are routinely happy with JPEG, you might run into a situation where you would benefit from having the raw file.
Part of that discussion should be a consideration of the consequences of not getting the shot. If you are shooting a one time, extraordinary event (such as a building being knocked down), then there is a significant downside to not getting the shot. If you are shooting a static subject in your studio, it may be trivial to change settings (or lighting) and reshoot.
In some situations the advantage of preventing an occasional missed shot does not warrant the additional overhead of shooting raw.
Again, if you happy with your results when shooting JPEG, then there is no need to change. Obviously, not everyone is happy with camera produced JPEGs.
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By the way, some photographers prefer to fix things "in the camera" rather than in post processing.
For instance, suppose a shadow is too deep. Some photographers will shoot raw and lift the shadow in post processing. Other photographers may prefer to add additional light to the shadows before taking the shot. Of course, sometimes post processing isn't an option, and sometimes adding more light isn't an option.
There is no single workflow that is best for all situations. There are many reasonable workflows to choose from.
I guess you shoot RAW + JPEG then?I keep RAW files, l don't process every RAW file, there are 1,000s. If l process a RAW file then l save it as a PSD with all the layers, there maybe several different versions, as there are so many different things you can do. I only save them as JPEG if l want to compare different versions, on my screen.Yes, and this changes nothing.You are aware that raw files contain an embedded JPEG?I cannot imagine why someone would keep RAW files only. I know that some people do that, and use LR to view their photos, but I cannot understand the rationale for that. I process all my RAWs and have JPEGs for viewing.It doesn't matter when you do the processing. If you only keep the raw, and not a JPEG or TIFF, then you need to maintain a working version of the software in order to get at the edited image.Actually, LR keeps the old processes as an option. Not that this is a consideration because, as I said, you can, and most likely will process your images shortly after the shootout.
LR is a lousy viewer. Slow, it actually uses cached JPEGs in Edit mode, you need to have it installed on all devices, and then have the RAWs synchronized on them. When you want to share your photos, you still need to convert them.l don't use LR. If you can view Raw on LR, why do you need JPEG?
Yes, there is a benefit to consistent practice. However, it also makes sense to design the practice around the majority of images you will take, and not the few outliers.There's a real benefit to consistent practice. Apply consistent practice and you get good at it. I like to use small light cameras and most commonly walk with an MFT sensor camera -- all the more important to expose for maximum advantage. There's also an element of satisfaction that comes from doing the best job you can do -- I like that. There's something disturbingly wrong with the position that it's OK to cut corners because it won't show.The question you have not addressed is "When is it important to squeeze every last bit of quality out of your camera?"The sensor in your camera has a fixed data recording capacity. The best possible exposure that will produce the best possible image quality is the exposure that utilizes the sensor's full capacity. If you leave any amount of the sensor's recording capacity unused you drop the SNR for that image. If you can expose to make full use of the sensor you get the best possible IQ.wow, I never realized that was how you shoot RAW. But have never tried it and doubt that I could figure all that out.
Circumstances like low light and no tripod can intervene and prohibit a best possible exposure. In that case we still want the photo so we do the best we can and expose as much as possible.
It's actually very simple and straightforward and makes taking photos easier than it's ever been -- way easier than shooting camera JPEGs. No matter what the subject and no matter what the lighting it's the same exposure -- place the brightest diffuse highlight at the sensor saturation threshold and click, or in low light with no tripod expose as much as possible.
If you generally are not happy with in-camera JPEGs, then you absolutely should be shooting raw. "Why" you are unhappy isn't important.I am never happy with the in-camera JPEG -- it is always inferior and unacceptable to me. And sure no argument about wider range of adjustments or heaven forbid salvaging images. I save and process raw files and optimize exposure because it produces superior results that I can always see. I maintain a consistent best-possible practice and derive satisfaction from a job well done.In various shooting situations, how far below the optimum exposure can you go before the unaided human eye can see a visible difference in the final image?
Obviously, there exist situations where it does make a visible difference, and situations where it doesn't. How common are each of these? If I am shooting outdoors on a cloudy day, will anyone see a difference between an image exposed to yield a good looking in-camera JPEG, and an image exposed to absolutely maximize SNR?
In situations where the difference isn't visible, and I am happy with the in-camera JPEG, what's the advantage of shooting raw?
Note: Answers of the form "raw allows you to make a wider range of adjustments and salvage many images..." are not applicable to the situation where I am happy with the in-camera JPEG.