Initial thoughts on the Promaster 5750DX TTL flash

[R. Slaughter]

Where were you standing? some of the shots seem to be taken from from right out on the field! can you share what the camera (and flash) settings were for some of these?

Ricky

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[misha]

A couple of things that you've probably already checked, but in
case you haven't: 1) make sure both the exposure composition and
the flash power levels are set to 0; 2) make sure the TTL light is
on with the adapter (turn on flash before turning on camera, or
switch to review mode and back to aperture priority mode); 3) Use
aperture priority and not manual mode; 4) check where your flash is
pointing on your bracket -- try hand holding the flash and point at
slightly different angles and positions.

One other thing -- check whether the flash head is in the zoom or
wide angle position, also make sure your batteries are charged up.

Thanks! All settings seem to be as you described (I understand exposure compensation and flash power are the same thing when you use the flash?). I have the 5550dx - it does not have a zoom head.

You mentioned (I noticed that too) that the camera chooses 1/30 s in normal indoor light - do you have any problems with subject motion at that shutter speed?
--
Misha

 

[fotops]

Where were you standing? some of the shots seem to be taken from
from right out on the field! can you share what the camera (and
flash) settings were for some of these?

typically: f2.8, 1/160th, ISO200

Going with ISO200 enabled me to get shots that were a little bright, but faster shutter. This stopped that action better and when I drop the brightness level in PS6 it rids the 'noise'.

I've since learned that going with 1/60th would give better illumination to the background (with some subject motion blur). Its the duration of the flash that stops the action.

Ya, I'm always on the sideline, usually behind the offensive line of scrimmage. "Out on the field" may be the endzone shot of a td run.

YOU must experiment!!! Every week I find other ways.
--
? or ! always welcome.
Fotops (D100, C-2100) http://www.fotops.com

 

[Mark Sneller]

Michael, Sorry I wasn't more clear. My intent is to move the flash away from the camera on a tripod maybe 30 or 40 degrees to the side, possibly 6 or 8 feet away from the camera. I think you covered this in #4 and #5 below. Thanks

Mark

4) Having two or more independent flashes. Typically when you do
this, you leave the realm of TTL flashes, and need to go to manual
flash setups where you fix the f-stop and speed. For this I bought
the 71177 adapter, which takes a pc-sync connector, and use the
FL-CB04 cable I used with the Kalimar flash. I haven't bought it
yet, but you can get Y adapters that split pc-sync between two
flashes, each of which has a wire connecting it to the Y adapter.
There are many different thoughts on light placement (see the
various books on studio photography, or browse the lighting forum).
One thought is to have the main flash in front, and have a hair
highlight flash behind your subjects.

5) A varient on #4 is to have the second flash be a slave flash,
triggered either optically (with a slave trigger that can ignore
the pre-flash) or via a radio transmitter (that takes a pc-sync
input). The advantage here is less wires.

6) More involved studio setups include things like Alien Bees,
which are beyond my expertise.

 

[Michael Meissner]

Michael, Sorry I wasn't more clear. My intent is to move the flash
away from the camera on a tripod maybe 30 or 40 degrees to the
side, possibly 6 or 8 feet away from the camera. I think you
covered this in #4 and #5 below. Thanks

If you are going to use a single TTL flash, then you might or might not have a problem, since the coiled TTL cord is maybe 4-6 feet at most. If you are going pc-sync, you can get longer cords. If you are going totally pc-sync and manual flash, it is cheaper to just buy a Vivitar or Sunpak. It sounds like you want the ability to do studio type shots occasionally, but want to use the TTL flash for other times.

 

[R. Slaughter]

The Module did come in today, as stated.
The price didn't even change! I'm now working on a bracket solution.
I looked at the StroboFlip (both versions) and the Stratos.
Of the two, the Stratos is much better built IMHO.

However, the price of $65 I can't stomach at this time and I don't like the fact that the frames make for a huge package when assembled. I would prefer that the UZi simply had a hotshoe (of course) or a bracket that would simulate one. That's the package size I'm shooting for. I know that there are benefits to the brackets, but the size factor seems paramount at the moment.
I'm cobblling up a bracket right now, I'll get back on that in a bit...

My real dilemma at the moment: I'm going to go out on Bourbon street in a bit and put this thing to use; somebody tell me a good baseline for camera settings?
Should I use Aperature priority mode? 2.8?

I expect to be shooting subject 30 or more feet away, outdoors, with light from street lights, neon signs etcetera.

Does the "ISO slider" on the flash actually effect the flash, or is it there as a "calculator", with no actual function?

Help!

R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[misha]

My real dilemma at the moment: I'm going to go out on Bourbon
street in a bit and put this thing to use; somebody tell me a good
baseline for camera settings?
Should I use Aperature priority mode? 2.8?
I expect to be shooting subject 30 or more feet away, outdoors,
with light from street lights, neon signs etcetera.

Does the "ISO slider" on the flash actually effect the flash, or is
it there as a "calculator", with no actual function?

Starting from the end - the slider on the flash does not affect anything, it's just a guide showing for a given ISO the range of TTL operation with specific aperture settings (in meters and feet). There should be a table in the user's guide with similar information - from that you can judge which aperture will get you the longest range (probably 2.8 or 3.5 if you use the zoom). For bracket I use a fairly small folding bracket - about $13 at BHPhoto.

--
Misha

 

[Mark Sneller]

Michael, Sorry I wasn't more clear. My intent is to move the flash
away from the camera on a tripod maybe 30 or 40 degrees to the
side, possibly 6 or 8 feet away from the camera. I think you
covered this in #4 and #5 below. Thanks

If you are going to use a single TTL flash, then you might or might
not have a problem, since the coiled TTL cord is maybe 4-6 feet at
most. If you are going pc-sync, you can get longer cords. If you
are going totally pc-sync and manual flash, it is cheaper to just
buy a Vivitar or Sunpak. It sounds like you want the ability to do
studio type shots occasionally, but want to use the TTL flash for
other times.

Yes, that's exactly right. I am not looking to get into the pro portrait business, just tyring to get the most bang and flexibility from the flash that I buy. Maybe the proper setup for me would be a TTL like the 5750 for on-camera work, and a cheaper manual like the Vivitar used in conjunction with the TTL (operating both in Manual mode) for portraits?

Mark

 

[R. Slaughter]

Thanks for the quick reply...
I'm still wondering...
should I use P,A,S or M?

My real dilemma at the moment: I'm going to go out on Bourbon
street in a bit and put this thing to use; somebody tell me a good
baseline for camera settings?
Should I use Aperature priority mode? 2.8?
I expect to be shooting subject 30 or more feet away, outdoors,
with light from street lights, neon signs etcetera.

Does the "ISO slider" on the flash actually effect the flash, or is
it there as a "calculator", with no actual function?

Starting from the end - the slider on the flash does not affect
anything, it's just a guide showing for a given ISO the range of
TTL operation with specific aperture settings (in meters and feet).
There should be a table in the user's guide with similar
information - from that you can judge which aperture will get you
the longest range (probably 2.8 or 3.5 if you use the zoom). For
bracket I use a fairly small folding bracket - about $13 at BHPhoto.

--
Misha

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[R. Slaughter]

Here's the bracket I modified....jury's still out on how well it works.
I'll let you know

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[misha]

Thanks for the quick reply...
I'm still wondering...
should I use P,A,S or M?

Probably A. I'm still experimenting.
--
Misha

 

[Mark Sneller]

Is there supposed to be a picture of it Ricky?

Mark

Here's the bracket I modified....jury's still out on how well it
works.
I'll let you know

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[R. Slaughter]

Yes, there was s'posed to be a picture....of I was in a really big hurry, and I failed to get it in there.
Here it is (I hope)

Mark

Here's the bracket I modified....jury's still out on how well it
works.
I'll let you know

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[R. Slaughter]

there're more pics of it here:
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/tele&page=6

When I get a chance, I will have a pic of the bracket before mods.
Its just a 'generic' bracket that would put the flash way out to the side.

I "reversed" it and bent it all up and this is the result. This was just a very quickie solution for tonight. I have designed a much better set-up, but it will have to wait til I get home again as it will require machine work.

I just got in from halloween on Bourbon Street whew talk about a wild time! The flash definitely showed its value there.

I am learning how not to use it, and I think thats progress. I was able to take a few good shots to learn from and a slew of mediocre shots.
They will be posted (unedited) here:
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/nawlins2002
as soon as I can get them resized and uploaded.

Ricky

R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[Michael Meissner]

I'm at work right now, but I will try to remember to either dig up
the test shots I took when I first got the flash (where I did went
through most of the combinations), or take some new shots. In
general I don't recall having to brighten shots with the 5750DX,
and I did have to do that with the Kalimar (which was one of the
reasons I went for the TTL flash). I do recall closeup shots,
particularly macros as not coming out, and I now tend to photograph
these by bouncing light off of the ceiling.

I did some test shots last night, but I lost track of which shot was which, so I need to repeat the process. I do think the straight on flash shot looked a little off, but when I bounced the flash off of the ceiling it came out much better. Since I usually bounce the flash either off of the ceiling or with a Lumiquest midi-bouncer, I never noticed it before.

 

[Michael Meissner]

Yes, that's exactly right. I am not looking to get into the pro
portrait business, just tyring to get the most bang and flexibility
from the flash that I buy. Maybe the proper setup for me would be a
TTL like the 5750 for on-camera work, and a cheaper manual like the
Vivitar used in conjunction with the TTL (operating both in Manual
mode) for portraits?

For the secondary light, particularly since distance won't be a problem, you might want to get a cheaper flash like the Vivitar 2000 or Kodakgear flash and a Wein digital peanut slave trigger. That way you can position the second flash anywhere and not have to worry about wires.

 

[Mark Sneller]

Looks like you had a good time last night! It seems there was a lot of flashing going on there!

Seriously, any glaring problems with the 5750 so far?

Mark

 

[Michael Meissner]

Here's the bracket I modified....jury's still out on how well it
works.
I'll let you know

That's a nice compact bracket by the way. I've been toying with making a wooden one, but I must admit I am not all that handy at building stuff.

 

[R. Slaughter]

Thanks, Michael. This was actually quite simple to create.

It's a store bought flat bracket that's been bent, basically. The only 'trick' part it that the rubber pad is moved to the other side ,the screw is reversed and its painted to match the UZi. It has evolved a bit since, as I got a remote power pack yesterday and I had to cut some clearance notches in the bracket so the thing could plug in. this works with the compartment door open and sticking thru the slot in the bracket. Not ideal, but functional. I do some mechanical design, so I working on a "real' bracket design that I wil show you when I get it built. I'm toying with the idea of making them for sale. Compact, light weight, out of the way of all doors and buttuns, not attached to the tripod mount, etc.

Ricky

l

Here's the bracket I modified....jury's still out on how well it
works.
I'll let you know

That's a nice compact bracket by the way. I've been toying with
making a wooden one, but I must admit I am not all that handy at
building stuff.

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

 

[Mark Sneller]

Thanks, Michael. This was actually quite simple to create.
It's a store bought flat bracket that's been bent, basically. The
only 'trick' part it that the rubber pad is moved to the other side
,the screw is reversed and its painted to match the UZi. It has
evolved a bit since, as I got a remote power pack yesterday and I
had to cut some clearance notches in the bracket so the thing could
plug in. this works with the compartment door open and sticking
thru the slot in the bracket. Not ideal, but functional. I do some
mechanical design, so I working on a "real' bracket design that I
wil show you when I get it built. I'm toying with the idea of
making them for sale. Compact, light weight, out of the way of all
doors and buttuns, not attached to the tripod mount, etc.

Ricky, I like the simple bracket. What length did you start out with? looks like about 10 inches? Keep us posted on the new design - very interesting. The Uzi's plastic tripod mount makes me nervous with a big flash hanging from it, so if you come up with one that doesn't attach there, I would be all for it.

You mentioned above a "remote power pack". Is that for the 5750? I didn't think they had that option.

Mark