Image impact using cross polariser for artwork

[amateurphotographer]

Hi All,

The other day I decided to shoot a glazed artwork using Cross Polariser, I put Lee CPL (the older version as the latest version is warmer in tone) on the lens and used Rosco Polarizing film on my strobes.

We arranged for the glazing to be taken off and unframed and I photographed the work without any problems.

It was obvious that the photos taken with the CPL had a "colour cast" when compared to the unframed work.

So in past discussions on this forum, CPL was recommended to deal with reflections for glazed artwork. Did you also find colour cast? If not what brand of CPL did you use.

Even if the photo you took with CPL was in front of you, it is very difficult to colour correct photos on location because the lighting in many venues are typically warmer so your eyes adjust accordingly. The only way would be to have "daylight" LED lights to overpower the room lighting when viewing the artwork.

 

[Ellis Vener]

It was obvious that the photos taken with the CPL had a "colour cast" when compared to the unframed work.

So in past discussions on this forum, CPL was recommended to deal with reflections for glazed artwork. Did you also find colour cast? If not what brand of CPL did you use.

Breakthrough.Photography X4 CPL

Even if the photo you took with CPL was in front of you, it is very difficult to colour correct photos on location because the lighting in many venues are typically warmer so your eyes adjust accordingly. The only way would be to have "daylight" LED lights to overpower the room lighting when viewing the artwork.

This is the point where there re two overlapping approaches
1) Contol all of the lighting even if that means either turning off the room lights and blocking windows or using flash and your camera's maximum X-Sync shutter speed (NOT HSS) and a combination of aperture and ISO setting to get the desired brightness.

2.) Include a Calibrite 24-patch Color checker i n the photograph (obviously not blocking the artwork, shooting raw and using the Calibrite software (which is free) to create a custom profile for your camera lens, and in this specific case lighting.

If you feel the 24 patch target isn't subtle enough to give you accurate enough color , there is the Calibrite ColorChecker Digital SG target https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1649341-REG/calibrite_ccdsg_colorchecker_digital_sg.html target which is best used with BasICColor 6 Input profiling software https://www.basiccolor.de/basiccolor-input-6-en-US/

 

[amateurphotographer]

It was obvious that the photos taken with the CPL had a "colour cast" when compared to the unframed work.

So in past discussions on this forum, CPL was recommended to deal with reflections for glazed artwork. Did you also find colour cast? If not what brand of CPL did you use.

Breakthrough.Photography X4 CPL

Hi Ellis , many thanks for this, I will probably purchase this CPL and give it a go.

Even if the photo you took with CPL was in front of you, it is very difficult to colour correct photos on location because the lighting in many venues are typically warmer so your eyes adjust accordingly. The only way would be to have "daylight" LED lights to overpower the room lighting when viewing the artwork.

This is the point where there re two overlapping approaches
1) Contol all of the lighting even if that means either turning off the room lights and blocking windows or using flash and your camera's maximum X-Sync shutter speed (NOT HSS) and a combination of aperture and ISO setting to get the desired brightness.

2.) Include a Calibrite 24-patch Color checker i n the photograph (obviously not blocking the artwork, shooting raw and using the Calibrite software (which is free) to create a custom profile for your camera lens, and in this specific case lighting.
If you feel the 24 patch target isn't subtle enough to give you accurate enough color , there is the Calibrite ColorChecker Digital SG target https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1649341-REG/calibrite_ccdsg_colorchecker_digital_sg.html target which is best used with BasICColor 6 Input profiling software https://www.basiccolor.de/basiccolor-input-6-en-US/

Thanks , I do have and used the 24 patch SG target, but still find using it, there are colours in artwork which are still not accurate. As aside i do find neon paint used by some artists particularly hard for my GFX to produce accurate colours.

 

[Ellis Vener]

As aside i do find neon paint used by some artists particularly hard for my GFX to produce accurate colours.

That's hard for any camera.

 

[john isaacs]

Hi All,

The other day I decided to shoot a glazed artwork using Cross Polariser, I put Lee CPL (the older version as the latest version is warmer in tone) on the lens and used Rosco Polarizing film on my strobes.

We arranged for the glazing to be taken off and unframed and I photographed the work without any problems.

It was obvious that the photos taken with the CPL had a "colour cast" when compared to the unframed work.

So in past discussions on this forum, CPL was recommended to deal with reflections for glazed artwork. Did you also find colour cast? If not what brand of CPL did you use.

Even if the photo you took with CPL was in front of you, it is very difficult to colour correct photos on location because the lighting in many venues are typically warmer so your eyes adjust accordingly. The only way would be to have "daylight" LED lights to overpower the room lighting when viewing the artwork.

All CPLs have some form of color cast, but some have very little. No matter what brand you use, you will not get a color cast that is accurately correctable by white balance because it is too narrow.

But you definitely want one that has very little color cast when shooting artwork.

Also, for artwork, if I'm using filters or mixed lighting, I do a color calibration using a Calibrate Color Checker.

Use the Color Checker to verify that your CPL has minimum color cast; just compare images of the Color Checker with and without the CPL, and difference the images in photoshop.