GFX100S II Dynamic Range and D Range Priority Settings

[David Redfearn]

My GFX100S II should arrive next week but I have been looking at the newly available Manual so I have a head start in setting up the camera when I have it.

I ran into a couple of settings that I don't understand: Dynamic Range and D Range Priority. The Dynamic Range setting can be 100%, 200%, 400% or "Auto". D Range Priority can be set to Auto, Strong, Weak and Off. The manual notes that when D Range Priority is turned on, it affects Tone Curve and Dynamic Range settings. What do these settings do? Do the settings affect RAW as well as HEIF/JPG images?

Sony has a setting called Dynamic Range Optimization (DRO) that has manual settings or "Auto". DRO does not affect the RAW image and I have found the Auto setting to be safe - it never makes the image worse, and sometimes helps.

So, since I am starting out with this camera should I turn off both these settings? But maybe 100% is the Dynamic Range default for that camera - but then why have an "off" setting.

I tend to shy away from the "Automatically Improve Your Image" functions because they often make things worse.

How do these settings work? Do you use them? Do they help?

David

 

[David Redfearn]

I mostly agree. When I am shooting in a situation where I need more control (such as my orchid images) I switch to Aperture Mode so I have control over DOF. We also have a number of holiday parades here in Summerlin (Christmas, Halloween, Chinese New Years, etc.) that I like to shoot every year - and that is a very low light situation and I use wide open aperture mode then along with a high ISO setting to keep shutter speed high enough to stop motion. (I used to think I could also improve results by using very fast lenses (e.g., f/1.4 and f/1.2) - but that results in such a shallow DOF that my results were not good. I sold my Sony f/1.2 50mm lens.

But, when I am "walking around" shooting - when I don't know exactly what settings are optimal - I use Program Mode. That is based on advice that Garry Friedman gave me several years ago - use the camera automation to "get the shot"; then, consider "How can I improve it?", and make the adjustments necessary. In my experience very often the shot you want disappears pretty quickly and you can miss it fooling around with camera settings.

It's a style of shooting, and I wouldn't call it "amateur". When camera automation helps, I use it. Now, I do understand that shooting Medium Format comes with different requirements - and I am going to have to experiment and see what works.

David

 

[Greg7579]

I mostly agree. When I am shooting in a situation where I need more control (such as my orchid images) I switch to Aperture Mode so I have control over DOF. We also have a number of holiday parades here in Summerlin (Christmas, Halloween, Chinese New Years, etc.) that I like to shoot every year - and that is a very low light situation and I use wide open aperture mode then along with a high ISO setting to keep shutter speed high enough to stop motion. (I used to think I could also improve results by using very fast lenses (e.g., f/1.4 and f/1.2) - but that results in such a shallow DOF that my results were not good. I sold my Sony f/1.2 50mm lens.

But, when I am "walking around" shooting - when I don't know exactly what settings are optimal - I use Program Mode. That is based on advice that Garry Friedman gave me several years ago - use the camera automation to "get the shot"; then, consider "How can I improve it?", and make the adjustments necessary. In my experience very often the shot you want disappears pretty quickly and you can miss it fooling around with camera settings.

It's a style of shooting, and I wouldn't call it "amateur". When camera automation helps, I use it. Now, I do understand that shooting Medium Format comes with different requirements - and I am going to have to experiment and see what works.

David

Sounds good. That will work and you know what you are doing. My only problem with full auto with GFX is it sometimes it picks an EV that I don't like or bumps up ISO when I might choose to do it a different way.

I really like to set my aperture on these Fuji lenses with the dial and go from there. And remember, while out walking around with GFX, you might want to try to stay at F8-9-10-11 range for DOF, unless you want focus falloff for an artistic or subject-related reason.

 

[David Redfearn]

Yes, of course - Medium format is different, and I need to learn how to deal with it. DOF is one issue (I'm spoiled with the OM-1 4/3 system). The other issue that I know about is whether I need to use a tripod or can hand-hold shots. I know the GFX100S II has a good image stabilization function and the lens has IS too, so I am hoping that will work most of the time. My orchid photography is done on a tripod with a remote shutter release and that should work fine for the new camera. I own several tripods but have not used them outside the home. It turns out that you can't sell tripods back to the Used Camera companies - they are happy to buy my old cameras and lenses but have no interest in tripods ("There is no market"). That's why I have several tripods. The tripod I use for the orchids is a 45 year old Slik tripod. Works great.)

David

 

[Greg7579]

Yes, of course - Medium format is different, and I need to learn how to deal with it. DOF is one issue (I'm spoiled with the OM-1 4/3 system). The other issue that I know about is whether I need to use a tripod or can hand-hold shots. I know the GFX100S II has a good image stabilization function and the lens has IS too, so I am hoping that will work most of the time. My orchid photography is done on a tripod with a remote shutter release and that should work fine for the new camera. I own several tripods but have not used them outside the home. It turns out that you can't sell tripods back to the Used Camera companies - they are happy to buy my old cameras and lenses but have no interest in tripods ("There is no market"). That's why I have several tripods. The tripod I use for the orchids is a 45 year old Slik tripod. Works great.)

David

David,

I can assure you that the GFX IBIS is very good. I get tripod-like stability shots in dark churches handheld at 1/15 second at F4 with the 20-35.

Now of course I don't get tripod-like DOF, because I'm wide open with a GF lens in that situation, which costs some serious DO (vs the F11 I might shoot on a tripod with a long exposure in that church), but as far as IBIS and handheld shots? No problem.

Your DOF concerns as compared to MFT are real, but I think you will get comfortable using F8, 9, 10 and 11 to get some nice DOF when you want it. DOF and diffraction are the same at equivalent apertures, but I think to get that equivalency in the field, you will need 3 more stops vs MFT, 2 vs APSC and 1 vs FF. Jim can correct me if I said that wrong, but to get the kind of DOF you are used to you with MFT, APSC or even FF you will have to stop down a bit more. You will get used to that and the res and image fidelity of the GFX system is going to impress you when you see it and start working with it in post.

 

[JimKasson]

Yes, of course - Medium format is different, and I need to learn how to deal with it. DOF is one issue (I'm spoiled with the OM-1 4/3 system). The other issue that I know about is whether I need to use a tripod or can hand-hold shots. I know the GFX100S II has a good image stabilization function and the lens has IS too, so I am hoping that will work most of the time. My orchid photography is done on a tripod with a remote shutter release and that should work fine for the new camera. I own several tripods but have not used them outside the home. It turns out that you can't sell tripods back to the Used Camera companies - they are happy to buy my old cameras and lenses but have no interest in tripods ("There is no market"). That's why I have several tripods. The tripod I use for the orchids is a 45 year old Slik tripod. Works great.)

David

David,

I can assure you that the GFX IBIS is very good. I get tripod-like stability shots in dark churches handheld at 1/15 second at F4 with the 20-35.

Now of course I don't get tripod-like DOF, because I'm wide open with a GF lens in that situation, which costs some serious DO (vs the F11 I might shoot on a tripod with a long exposure in that church), but as far as IBIS and handheld shots? No problem.

Your DOF concerns as compared to MFT are real, but I think you will get comfortable using F8, 9, 10 and 11 to get some nice DOF when you want it. DOF and diffraction are the same at equivalent apertures, but I think to get that equivalency in the field, you will need 3 more stops vs MFT, 2 vs APSC and 1 vs FF. Jim can correct me if I said that wrong, but to get the kind of DOF you are used to you with MFT, APSC or even FF you will have to stop down a bit more. You will get used to that and the res and image fidelity of the GFX system is going to impress you when you see it and start working with it in post.

For the same DOF at the same subject with a lens of the same angle of view, multiply the f-stop you would use with MFT by 44/18 = 2,44 to get the right f-stop for MF. If you were using f/5.6 for MFT, you'll need to use f/14 for MF. To take full advantage of MF DR, you'll need a longer shutter speed.