GFX100S II Dynamic Range and D Range Priority Settings

David Redfearn

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My GFX100S II should arrive next week but I have been looking at the newly available Manual so I have a head start in setting up the camera when I have it.

I ran into a couple of settings that I don't understand: Dynamic Range and D Range Priority. The Dynamic Range setting can be 100%, 200%, 400% or "Auto". D Range Priority can be set to Auto, Strong, Weak and Off. The manual notes that when D Range Priority is turned on, it affects Tone Curve and Dynamic Range settings. What do these settings do? Do the settings affect RAW as well as HEIF/JPG images?

Sony has a setting called Dynamic Range Optimization (DRO) that has manual settings or "Auto". DRO does not affect the RAW image and I have found the Auto setting to be safe - it never makes the image worse, and sometimes helps.

So, since I am starting out with this camera should I turn off both these settings? But maybe 100% is the Dynamic Range default for that camera - but then why have an "off" setting.

I tend to shy away from the "Automatically Improve Your Image" functions because they often make things worse.

How do these settings work? Do you use them? Do they help?

David
 
These are probably the most cryptic and hard to understand setting in the camera. Just set it to DR 100 and DR-P OFF and live happily ever after. :)
Amen.
 
My GFX100S II should arrive next week but I have been looking at the newly available Manual so I have a head start in setting up the camera when I have it.

I ran into a couple of settings that I don't understand: Dynamic Range and D Range Priority. The Dynamic Range setting can be 100%, 200%, 400% or "Auto". D Range Priority can be set to Auto, Strong, Weak and Off. The manual notes that when D Range Priority is turned on, it affects Tone Curve and Dynamic Range settings. What do these settings do? Do the settings affect RAW as well as HEIF/JPG images?

Sony has a setting called Dynamic Range Optimization (DRO) that has manual settings or "Auto". DRO does not affect the RAW image and I have found the Auto setting to be safe - it never makes the image worse, and sometimes helps.

So, since I am starting out with this camera should I turn off both these settings? But maybe 100% is the Dynamic Range default for that camera - but then why have an "off" setting.

I tend to shy away from the "Automatically Improve Your Image" functions because they often make things worse.

How do these settings work? Do you use them? Do they help?

David
It is always good to check whether Jim Kasson has already answered your question in his blog :).

 
That is one of the first things I discovered when the Fuji XT-2 came out (ten years ago?) way before I started shooting GFX. The feature came out on the Fuji menus, and everyone started "testing" it and there was a big argument about whether or not the DR 100, 200 400 setting affected the actual raw file or was just another meaningless (to the raw file) jpeg setting.

So, I shot it on 200 and 400 for a while and my images were all over the place in LR - a lot of underexposed images and some weird shadow recovery stuff that was all fixable in LR but a bad start to editing.... It did impact the raw file.

I came on the GFX Forum about 6 years ago and the discussion was ongoing here as people bought the new GFX 50S and were discovering the Fuji menus. Some OP asked about it and I said to set it in 100 (which oddly is off).

Jim thought it affected the jpeg only. I argued with him, and he quickly tested it and agreed.

It is the only thing in 6 years that I can claim I actually taught Jim. But he would have discovered it anyway on his test.

But I don't care. That is my story and I'm sticking with kit.

We all have our claims to fame. I've never won a DPR argument, but I did teach Jim one thing back in the day....

I am the only person in DPR MF Board history to teach Jim anything about GFX.
 
My GFX100S II should arrive next week but I have been looking at the newly available Manual so I have a head start in setting up the camera when I have it.

I ran into a couple of settings that I don't understand: Dynamic Range and D Range Priority. The Dynamic Range setting can be 100%, 200%, 400% or "Auto". D Range Priority can be set to Auto, Strong, Weak and Off. The manual notes that when D Range Priority is turned on, it affects Tone Curve and Dynamic Range settings. What do these settings do? Do the settings affect RAW as well as HEIF/JPG images?

Sony has a setting called Dynamic Range Optimization (DRO) that has manual settings or "Auto". DRO does not affect the RAW image and I have found the Auto setting to be safe - it never makes the image worse, and sometimes helps.

So, since I am starting out with this camera should I turn off both these settings? But maybe 100% is the Dynamic Range default for that camera - but then why have an "off" setting.

I tend to shy away from the "Automatically Improve Your Image" functions because they often make things worse.

How do these settings work? Do you use them? Do they help?

David
It is always good to check whether Jim Kasson has already answered your question in his blog :).

https://blog.kasson.com/gfx-100s/gfx-100s-dr-setting-affect-raw-files/
Copyright violation. I told him that 3 years before this blog entry. 😁

Kasson Retraction:

"I would like to thank Greg Johnson for the inspiration to conduct this test. Greg's outstanding contributions to the betterment and advancement of science are to be commended and his inspiration for and furthering of my work (so essential to DPR) qualifies him for the Kasson Blog Certificate of Appreciation and Achievement and the DPR Man of the Year Award. Thank you, Greg."
 
These are probably the most cryptic and hard to understand setting in the camera. Just set it to DR 100 and DR-P OFF and live happily ever after. :)
Hmm - cryptic settings are not good. Why not turn DR off completely rather than use the 100% setting? Is 100% just the camera default?

David
 
These are probably the most cryptic and hard to understand setting in the camera. Just set it to DR 100 and DR-P OFF and live happily ever after. :)
Hmm - cryptic settings are not good. Why not turn DR off completely rather than use the 100% setting? Is 100% just the camera default?

David
100 is off. :)
 
The same discussion happened for the Sony DRO feature. The final consensus (if I remember correctly) was that it did affect RAW, but the effect was very subtle and was caused by a slight adjustment in exposure when the feature was turned on. As I mention, I leave it on Auto and have never seen any bad effects - it also doesn't help most of the time, but sometimes does. There are manual settings if I every want a more aggressive adjustment, but I never do.

Thanks (everyone) for the posts.

David
 
The same discussion happened for the Sony DRO feature. The final consensus (if I remember correctly) was that it did affect RAW, but the effect was very subtle and was caused by a slight adjustment in exposure when the feature was turned on. As I mention, I leave it on Auto and have never seen any bad effects - it also doesn't help most of the time, but sometimes does. There are manual settings if I every want a more aggressive adjustment, but I never do.
It's apocryphal, but conventional wisdom has it that the last words on the flight recorders recovered after crashes are, "Why is it doing that?"

I don't believe in automation unless I need it.
 
A related question: Do the film simulations only apply to the HEIF/JPG images, and not RAW? I wouldn't want them baked into the RAW image.

David
 
The manual also says Program Shift can't be used (in Program Mode) when the DR settings are used. I normally shoot in "P" mode and use Program Shift to change camera setting if needed.

David
 
The same discussion happened for the Sony DRO feature. The final consensus (if I remember correctly) was that it did affect RAW, but the effect was very subtle and was caused by a slight adjustment in exposure when the feature was turned on. As I mention, I leave it on Auto and have never seen any bad effects - it also doesn't help most of the time, but sometimes does. There are manual settings if I every want a more aggressive adjustment, but I never do.

Thanks (everyone) for the posts.

David
Leaving DR on Auto is a bad idea as the histogram and live view will be wrong (always representing DR100% even when Auto selects DR200%). Also DR Auto is not very smart, you are better off manually selecting DR value. Again, see Rico's book for more detail.
 
These are probably the most cryptic and hard to understand setting in the camera. Just set it to DR 100 and DR-P OFF and live happily ever after. :)
Hmm - cryptic settings are not good. Why not turn DR off completely rather than use the 100% setting? Is 100% just the camera default?

David
I've been asking that for years. It is idiotic.
 
The manual also says Program Shift can't be used (in Program Mode) when the DR settings are used. I normally shoot in "P" mode and use Program Shift to change camera setting if needed.

David
I used to do that 15 years ago. It can be done because the matrix evaluative meters are so good and you can just spin the wheel either direction on the program shift and it picks another workable EV that is either more or less speed or more or less aperture for DOF.

But David, I would advise you not to shoot GFX that way. It's a bit ... I don't know.... What is the word.... Rookie?

It of course depends on if you are shooting deliberate scenes or chasing moving subjects, but I'm a very deliberate set up slow shooter and set aperture on the lens and shoot aperture preferred at base ISO when I can and keep a close eye on the speed. If needed I bump up ISO if I need more handheld speed and fiddle with the aperture if I can sacrifice some DOF.

Some people use auto ISO and just set the aperture and speed and let the ISO fluctuate within a range, but I don't like that.

Using program shift works but it is a bit awkward and is usually how the new guys start out when they don't really feel the whole EV game or grew up with it.

Now you may be an old pro and are just comfortable with that. Cool. I used to use it.

Of course, there are times I go full manual or shutter preferred, but not often.
 

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