Focal Length to shutter speed to avoid shake

[Ross Dillon]

Before camera stabilization became a thing, to avoid seeing camera shake in the images the rule of thumb I was taught was to shoot a shutter speed equal to or faster than the focal length, i.e. a 400mm lens means shooting no slower than 1/400s. I've since read that with today's higher resolution camera that maybe we should double that (400mm = 1/800s).

Does this mean that crop factor kicks in as well; shooting M43 (2x crop factor) now bumps that up to 400mm = 1/1600s?

I ask because I went on a safari with my OM-2 MK II and a non-pro 100-400mm telezoom. I say non-pro because it doesn't have the IS Sync that the pro lenses have. I lost a lot of shots that I thought should have come out...I had inadvertently left my custom setting shutter speed set for a much shorter lens but a few stops of IBIS should have saved them but in many cases didn't.

Note I tried to back off from 400mm as I'd heard that the lens was soft at full zoom, but in the heat of the moment I didn't always remember, so I'm pretty sure that contributed to many of my "lost" shots.

The marketing brochures for the lens was confusing in terms of how much total IS one would get with that lens/camera combo...I even reached out to OM systems to get their answer and they tap danced around the question. I've since heard that per anecdotal use® the lens should have it's IS turned off as it sometimes fights the camera. Really cranky that I hadn't found that tidbit before I left for Africa (if in fact it's true)

 

[Ross Dillon]

1/3200 for the start for action with 100-400

Seems a bit high.

It depends on what you are photographing. Anything 1/1600 or higher should be sufficient to avoid any camera/lens problems (or much lower if you shoot IS Priority with regular bursts instead of SH2). For a soaring bird, 1/1600 would generally be okay if you pan well. For faster birds (swallows), at least 1/2000 or better 1/2500 should be fine and it is generally safe to simply use one of these for BIFs. For these you really do not need dual stabilization.

Animals with fur are harder to suggest shutter speeds. Longer fur is worse in that it can move in multiple directions. When possible I like to keep shutter speeds at 1/320 or faster for animals moving very slowly. If they are moving quickly, then treat them like BIFs.

Faster shutter speeds reduce pixel blur and horizontal movement blur, but does not help that much for vertical movement blur (your sensor readout speed is the limiting factor for vertical blur/distortion. For vertical blur, the mechanical shutter is better than the electronic shutter since the readout speed is 1/250 vs 1/120.

So you're mixing camera shake with subject motion. Two completely different issues...

 

[Danielvr]

In my experience the 1/FL guideline only ever held for normal focal lengths.

With super telephoto lenses, you have to extend your left arm to a point where it no longer rests against your chest, its own weight begins to contribute to the load, and the farther out you move your hand, the less support your arm can still offer. By that point, the relationship is probably (inverse) quadratic.

 

[Danielvr]

So you're mixing camera shake with subject motion. Two completely different issues...

You responded to a message that specified "for action".

 

[Ross Dillon]

In my experience the 1/FL guideline only ever held for normal focal lengths.

With super telephoto lenses, you have to extend your left arm to a point where it no longer rests against your chest, its own weight begins to contribute to the load, and the farther out you move your hand, the less support your arm can still offer. By that point, the relationship is probably (inverse) quadratic.

Perhaps, but the M43 lens in question (per my OP) isn't that big.

 

[Jouko]

Depends...

1. You: how shaky hands you have, technique, how steady you can stand / sit on that moment, have you run a lot to the place etc. Even how many coffees you have had. Or beers. Tripod / monopod / chestpod, leaning on a tree/ car... Breathing tech.

2. Camera: mechanical or silent shutter? Single shot / bursts?

3. Subject: moving fast or standing still?

4. Atmosphere: heat waves, rain, dust etc ruining the best IQ?

With OM-D OM1.1 (and Oly EM1-versions) and older m.Zuiko 100-400 @400mm I have got sharp results with 1/60 sec from still standing birds etc, sometimes even with slower shutter speeds. Settings: silent shutter, burst- mode (usually L), CAF, F6.3, A-mode for shutter speed, ISO 800 or 1600, sometimes higher. Short bursts, reframe and reshoot. Not every shot will be sharp, but there will be good ones. Memory is cheap and reusable, delete-button is your friend.

Panning for moving animals can give very interesting results.

But: the general 1/FL sec will of course be a safe bet.

Have a nice day!

Jouko
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[ChuckB]

1/3200 for the start for action with 100-400

Seems a bit high.

Indeed. Check out this blog where the writer used the 150-600 lens with the MC1.4 adapter (1680mm equivalent) at a speed of 1/2500 for perched birds taking off. Amazing photos.

1680 EFOV Handheld Technique - Small Sensor Photography by Thomas Stirr

This article discusses how I adjusted my 1680 mm efov technique when using the M.Zuiko 150-600 mm IS zoom lens with the MC-14 teleconverter

smallsensorphotography.com

 

[Bobapingu]

1/3200 for the start for action with 100-400

Seems a bit high.

Indeed. Check out this blog where the writer used the 150-600 lens with the MC1.4 adapter (1680mm equivalent) at a speed of 1/2500 for perched birds taking off. Amazing photos.

https://smallsensorphotography.com/1680-efov-handheld-technique

In that case, it was a perched bird but at the moment of capture it's a BIF. So the 1/2500 is to freeze the bird's flight. That overrides camera shake considerations.

 

[plantdoc]

As a senior, I find IS to be very effective at shorter FL and much less so at longer FL. With the Oly 100-400 and Oly OM1 mk1, camera IS creates a decent stable EVF image but not many sharp pics at 400mm. Hand holding is not very reliable even at 1/1500, which seems odd. A monopod helps a good bit and the combination of monpod and a chair is the best. Disappointed with IS in extreme telephoto. Need to the new version with sync IS.

GREG

 

[ChuckB]

1/3200 for the start for action with 100-400

Seems a bit high.

Indeed. Check out this blog where the writer used the 150-600 lens with the MC1.4 adapter (1680mm equivalent) at a speed of 1/2500 for perched birds taking off. Amazing photos.

https://smallsensorphotography.com/1680-efov-handheld-technique

In that case, it was a perched bird but at the moment of capture it's a BIF. So the 1/2500 is to freeze the bird's flight. That overrides camera shake considerations.

My point was that the writer was shooting at equivalent 1680, handheld, and only needed 1/2500 to capture a fast moving BIF. Therefore I agree with Ross that starting at 1/3200 for equivalent 800 is a bit high.

 

[gary0319]

There are four Micro Four Thirds lenses that meet your 100-400mm description. Which one did you use?

[..] but in the heat of the moment [..]

You can't shoot anything over 200mm "in the heat of the moment" and expect sharp images. Super-telephoto shooting requires practice, a cool head and a very steady hand.

Sure, a snap turn, but "heat in the moment" (that was my phrasing so I get to define it) can also mean an opportunity that may or may not last long so you forget to go through your mental checklist

The actual lens was tagged on my OP. The Olympus f/5-6.3 IS.

I'm not meaning to be harsh here, but I get the feeling that you had not had a lot of time using that camera/lens combination before embarking on a major trip. Always good to spend some time getting to know the limitations of the gear and yourself before getting to the airport.

That said there are a lot of variables that can affect the image quality when shooting long focal lengths..... subject movement, camera shake, atmospheric heat waves, humidity, dust and more. I shoot birds here in Florida with my PL100-400 (and yes, I make sure it's a bit less than the full 400mm), My OM-1 II has really good IBIS, but I still never let the shutter speed go below 1/2500, just to make sure even if the ISO has to climb. This is not from some formula, but from shooting more than100,000 images with this camera/lens combination. I can deal with some noise, but a blurred pic is a dead end, as you seem to have found out.

 

[sherman_levine]

Can you post a few problem shots. That might well clarify the issue.

--

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[Ross Dillon]

As a senior, I find IS to be very effective at shorter FL and much less so at longer FL. With the Oly 100-400 and Oly OM1 mk1, camera IS creates a decent stable EVF image but not many sharp pics at 400mm. Hand holding is not very reliable even at 1/1500, which seems odd. A monopod helps a good bit and the combination of monpod and a chair is the best. Disappointed with IS in extreme telephoto. Need to the new version with sync IS.

GREG

To be fair, that lens is kinda soft past 300mm which is why I replaced it with the 300mm Prime.

 

[Ross Dillon]

Can you post a few problem shots. That might well clarify the issue.

One unedited shot. The focus point was dead-on his head. 400mm @ 1/1250 (he was a long ways away). IS was on (OM Mode 4, whatever that is). With even a couple of stops of IS I would have expected better...but I think this is a prime example of this lens being soft at the long end rather than camera shake.





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[Ross Dillon]

There are four Micro Four Thirds lenses that meet your 100-400mm description. Which one did you use?

[..] but in the heat of the moment [..]

You can't shoot anything over 200mm "in the heat of the moment" and expect sharp images. Super-telephoto shooting requires practice, a cool head and a very steady hand.

Sure, a snap turn, but "heat in the moment" (that was my phrasing so I get to define it) can also mean an opportunity that may or may not last long so you forget to go through your mental checklist

The actual lens was tagged on my OP. The Olympus f/5-6.3 IS.

I'm not meaning to be harsh here, but I get the feeling that you had not had a lot of time using that camera/lens combination before embarking on a major trip. Always good to spend some time getting to know the limitations of the gear and yourself before getting to the airport.

That said there are a lot of variables that can affect the image quality when shooting long focal lengths..... subject movement, camera shake, atmospheric heat waves, humidity, dust and more. I shoot birds here in Florida with my PL100-400 (and yes, I make sure it's a bit less than the full 400mm), My OM-1 II has really good IBIS, but I still never let the shutter speed go below 1/2500, just to make sure even if the ISO has to climb. This is not from some formula, but from shooting more than100,000 images with this camera/lens combination. I can deal with some noise, but a blurred pic is a dead end, as you seem to have found out.

I have years of experience shooting long lenses so please don't go there. I was simply asking for the current rule-of-thumb for M43 systems. I was shooting stationary animals from a solid platform at 1/250 (sandbag under the lens on a jeep roof with the engine off). Three stops of IS gets me to ~1/2000 equivalent which should have countered any shake, but many images were lost anyway. Many do to shooting at max zoom which I have already discussed is a problem with this lens. My last zoom lens (Nikkor 70-200mm stabilized) was near perfect at all zoom ranges...it took me some shots to remember I couldn't do that with the Oly 100-400mm.

 

[BernhardF]

Hi, I understand that you were using the Oly 100-400, first version. I used to have this lens on the OM-1 mki, and as you say it’s not the sharpest zoomed all way in. It’s IS is also a bit slow to settle making it hit and miss taking action shots. Like you I found that to many shots came out soft, especially ones where the action happened quickly and I couldn’t wait for the IS to settle before hitting the shutter.

I also read about turning off IS, and did try all combos of IBIS and IS and got similar results. Finally gave up on the lens and traded it in when getting the OM-1 mkii.

 

[Bobapingu]

1/3200 for the start for action with 100-400

Seems a bit high.

Indeed. Check out this blog where the writer used the 150-600 lens with the MC1.4 adapter (1680mm equivalent) at a speed of 1/2500 for perched birds taking off. Amazing photos.

https://smallsensorphotography.com/1680-efov-handheld-technique

In that case, it was a perched bird but at the moment of capture it's a BIF. So the 1/2500 is to freeze the bird's flight. That overrides camera shake considerations.

My point was that the writer was shooting at equivalent 1680, handheld, and only needed 1/2500 to capture a fast moving BIF. Therefore I agree with Ross that starting at 1/3200 for equivalent 800 is a bit high.

Point taken.

 

[sherman_levine]

Can you post a few problem shots. That might well clarify the issue.

One unedited shot. The focus point was dead-on his head. 400mm @ 1/1250 (he was a long ways away). IS was on (OM Mode 4, whatever that is). With even a couple of stops of IS I would have expected better...but I think this is a prime example of this lens being soft at the long end rather than camera shake.

The OM1m2 stabilization is excellent. I can handhold my 150-600 at 1/160 sec pretty easily, even though with IS off I have enough shake that I can't keep a subject in the finder. I don't think that's your issue here.

I don't think you have a focus issue, because I don't see anyplace in focus.

I suppose the lens could be soft - although I'm skeptical that it's as soft as the image would suggest. Do you have a filter mounted, or a polarizer. If so, I'd remove those first.

This is a very large animal quite small in the frame, and my best guess is that you're seeing the effect of atmospheric distortion at your long shooting distance. If so, there's not much you can do about it.

--

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[gary0319]

Can you post a few problem shots. That might well clarify the issue.

One unedited shot. The focus point was dead-on his head. 400mm @ 1/1250 (he was a long ways away). IS was on (OM Mode 4, whatever that is). With even a couple of stops of IS I would have expected better...but I think this is a prime example of this lens being soft at the long end rather than camera shake.

I suspect you are right about the camera shake. However, two things are going against you... the lens is at the longest focal length (try backing off a tad) and the lens is wide open (drop it back to f/7.1. Try one or both. My PL100-400 is the sharpest at 367mm and at f/7.1. Your ISO will jump up a bit but still be in range where little, if any noise, reduction will be needed

 

[ChuckB]

Can you post a few problem shots. That might well clarify the issue.

One unedited shot. The focus point was dead-on his head. 400mm @ 1/1250 (he was a long ways away). IS was on (OM Mode 4, whatever that is). With even a couple of stops of IS I would have expected better...but I think this is a prime example of this lens being soft at the long end rather than camera shake.

Wow. That is pretty bad. Nothing is in focus. It reminds me of the old trick used to make glamour shots - smear some Vaseline on the front element to soften things up.

I tried to improve it with Focus Magic which detects motion blur and got nowhere. IOW it's just out of focus. Topaz Sharpen AI (Very Blurry setting) improved it a bit but not to my satisfaction. I don't think that thermal blurring/atmospheric distortion is the cause but I wouldn't rule it out. Long distances can show it at any temperature, but in African heat for sure.

My personal feeling is that you have a bad lens. It happens. Some people (and reviewers) complain about the long end of the lens and others are happy and still others say there is a slight loss of sharpness at 400mm. I would not call this a "slight loss", hence my feeling it's a bad lens. At the same time, long distance photos with super tele lenses are never satisfactory to me unless it's a "record" shot (birders know what I mean). There is no substitute for getting close.

 

[plantdoc]

Actually, in some tests I ran with a sturdy tripod and self timer, the lens was very good. However, this setup is not very useful to me. Even with the monopod and light weight portable chair, the lens becomes more useful but not ideal in many situations. Not sure what the problem is. I am sure the 300mm is higher IQ lens, but too expensive and primes are too limiting for me. I had a collection of non pro primes and sold them after dropping one trying to do a quick lens change.

Greg