Flash

There are generally three ways to trigger a flash off camera:
  • Wired, wth the flash and camera connected by a cord
  • Optically, where a flash pulse comes from the camera triggering the off camera flash
  • By radio trigger, with a transmitter and receiver.
With a wired setup, you can plug a sync cord into the camera body and flash unit so they are connected. If neither the camera nor flash have a sync port, there are adapters that can provide the capability. This method is commonly used with studio strobes, but it's generally the least preferable since it limits the placement of the camera and flash.

With an optically triggered setup, either the pop up flash or an attached external flash will fire a triggering pulse before the main flash that tells the flash to fire. For this to work, the camera's pop-up or external flash have to be capable of sending the command signal and the off camera flash has to be able to receive it. While this method allows you to move freely it still can be restrictive as you need to maintain a line of sight between the command and remote units.

With a radio trigger setup, you mount a transmitter into the hot shoe and attach a receiver to the flash unit. This is generally the most preferable method as it gives you the most freedom for movement and you don't need a line of sight.

With each of these methods you may have manual and TTL functionality or only manual functionality depending on the equipment you get. Generally speaking, TTL functionality will cost more than manually only options. Additionally, some triggering options will allow you to control the power of the remote unit from the transmitter. Some flash units also have the ability to act as a radio transmitter and/or receiver.

As an example, Phottix's line of Odin radio triggers allow you to control flash power from the transmitter to flashes attached to their receivers. Their line of Mitros flashes have radio receivers built in so the Odin transmitter can control them without an additional receiver. The Mitros flashes also have a built in transmitter, so they can be used to trigger other Mitros flashes or flashes attached to Odin receivers.

As for the link you posted, that is just a transmitter. It looks like it is for triggering Yongnuo flashes compatible with their triggering system and most likely their triggers as well. I don't know much about that specific item, but you'd most likely also need a yongnuo receiver or compatible flash.
 
I do not know about the Yongnuo controller.

I use the camera as the controller, using CLS. The camera's built-in flash controls the remote wirelessly signalling with light. It has worked for me, though sometimes the remote does not go off, maybe because of the lack of line-of-sight.

I also have from my previous camera, an N80, a cable that has helped me do copy work in which the built-in flash gets me unwanted reflections.

It would be interesting for me to hear other people in the forum about their experience with other controllers.
 
Wireless triggers that use radio signals is all you need. 1 trigger to transmit (goes on your camera) and another trigger to receive (connects to the PC port.. or another port on your flash). You can affix the trigger to your flash using rubber bands, velcro, or whatever you wish. Most of the time, I'll just hold the trigger connected to the flash in my hand without them being affixed together-- just not that big of a deal to me. I'll hold the flash as low or high as I want over the subject that I'm shooting without having to worry about cords, and such connecting the flash to the camera.

The same triggers you use for your flash (speed light), you can also use for studio lights. Remember the option to trigger your flash using the radio trigger, and if you have a studio strobe nearby, you can have it optically triggered whenever your flash goes off. You'll have to be in a relatively low lit area for the studio light's optical sensor to sense a flash going off though.

Radio triggers give you so many options! Be sure your set triggers use the same frequency ;)

DO NOT BUY CHEAP TRIGGERS or any really cheap junk for your photography, as often they will give you problems down the road that you're not likely to experience with higher quality gear. Again, you're more likely to experience problems, but it doesn't mean that you will and it doesn't mean that there aren't any decent (but cheap) radio triggers out there on the market.... Personally, I'd go with Pocket Wizard or Cactus...

I highly recommend the Pocket Wizard Plus III as I've used them for a few years and older Pocket Wizards for over a decade without issue.



My advice is to go with the more mainstream triggers (e.g. Pocket Wizard, Cactus and even Godox has gotten into the game and has risen though the ranks, to name a few).

Another option is to buy triggers that allow you do both transmit OR receive (by selecting a switch) all in the same trigger, but you'll still need two of them, one set to transmit and the other to receive.

I've heard people having trouble triggering their flashes at a distance. I have never had that problem, whether I'm 1,000ft. away or around a lot of concrete, my aging Pocket Wizards haven't let me down.

Best of luck with your purchase decision- you'll love using the wireless triggers!
 
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I do not know about the Yongnuo controller.

I use the camera as the controller, using CLS. The camera's built-in flash controls the remote wirelessly signalling with light. It has worked for me, though sometimes the remote does not go off, maybe because of the lack of line-of-sight.
The Nikon D3x00 and D5x00 do not have this feature.

You need Nikon D7x00 and up for that feature.

Take care & Happy Shooting!
:)
I also have from my previous camera, an N80, a cable that has helped me do copy work in which the built-in flash gets me unwanted reflections.

It would be interesting for me to hear other people in the forum about their experience with other controllers.
 
I have a D5600 and an SB-700. What do I need to be able to use my flash off camera? what triggers can I use etc? I am very confused any help would be appreciated.

eg would this alone allow me to operate the flash? https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN...1438862&sr=1-6&keywords=yongnuo+trigger+nikon
I've got a Nikon D5100 and I've been thinking of going the Yongnuo YN 622N route.

The other option is to simply have a TTL cable between your camera and flash unit.

This site just posted something about the Catus triggers.


But . . . go to each site and look for the compatibility list and download the manuals to read through to see if it lists the compatible camera models as well. :)

The above options are geared towards preserving iTTL auto control of the flash unit.

There are "dumb" triggers available that trigger the flash unit, but do not preserve iTTL, so you would have to set up the flash unit manually.

Take care & Happy Shooting!
:)
 
I have a D5600 and an SB-700. What do I need to be able to use my flash off camera? what triggers can I use etc? I am very confused any help would be appreciated.

eg would this alone allow me to operate the flash? https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN...1438862&sr=1-6&keywords=yongnuo+trigger+nikon
Personally, I like the Godox X system (same as Adorama Flashpoint R2 - Info here - Both are mutually intelligible to my knowledge). If you get yourself an X1T-N and an X1R-N it will do exactly what you need (I did the same for my old SB-500). The X1-Pro N is a bit more intuitive but costs more.

The beauty of the X system is scalability. if you got another X-system flash it would work with your system--and so on up to true studio lights.

I've heard good things about Yongnuo as well, but I don't have any experience with them. I'll defer that to those that use it.

I hope this helps!
 
If you buy a pair of Cactus V6II's, you can use one on-camera as a transmitter and put your SB700 on the other off-camera in receiver mode. Out of the box, these provide manual control of power and zoom setting. You'll want to go to their website, www.cactus-image.com , and update the firmware of both V6II's to their Nikon X-TTL version. Once that is done, you can choose to shoot in TTL if you prefer and also have HSS capability to an 8,000/sec. The nice thing about these triggers is that you can swap out the firmware so they can be used on other camera brands. Great if others want to use them but have a Canon, Fuji, etc.

The other cool thing is that they are the only transceivers that allow you to use flashes designed for other camera brands on your Nikon. That means you can pick up some used ones made for Canon, Fuji, Pentax, Olympus, etc. and they will all be controlled by the on-camera V6II in manual or TTL.

A set of 2 will cost you about $190 and additional units are $95 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon resellers or many other dealers around the country. You can find a list at the cactus-USA Facebook page.
 
Take a look at the Studio and Lighting Technique Forum....


There are a few very knowledgeable and helpful individuals there who are happy to share their experience.
 
I have a D5600 and an SB-700. What do I need to be able to use my flash off camera? what triggers can I use etc? I am very confused any help would be appreciated.

eg would this alone allow me to operate the flash? https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN...1438862&sr=1-6&keywords=yongnuo+trigger+nikon
The answer to your 2nd question (bold above) is NO. You need to have your SB-700 mounted on either a YN 622N or YN 622N MK II transceiver . The 622N-TX in your link is only a transmitter and goes in the camera's hot-shoe. The 622N/622N MK II can be either transmitter or receiver however it doesn't have the superior LCD interface of the 622N-TX.
  • John
 

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