First Time Shooting An Event with TTL Flash ... A Few Questions Please

[ronfab1]

Thanks Guys above with those tips! Upon further testing with full battery and remounting on camera it "seems" as if most of the time I can shoot and rapidly reshoot several times, enough certainly to capture static group portraits for what I would be shooting. And much more infrequently an occasional misfire, which shouldn't present any huge problem as I'm not shooting critical timed events as say if I was main camera at a wedding and a misfire could cause loss of a one chance moment. Since as mentioned I will definitely be shooting several of each person or group each time I decide to shoot something. To that, I was pleasantly surprised to see, and did not know this ..... that with the Auto Review turned on to its quickest setting of 2 seconds .... I don't have to wait the full 2 seconds to shoot again. The quick half press of the shutter again releases the review image as quickly as I want to manually shoot. I've had it off for no good reason it seems, LOL. Phew! I did not want to buy another speed light when this one is virtually new still in terms of use.

Out of curiosity, similar to expected number of manual shutter releases a camera is rated for ... what are these types of speed lights expected to get roughly with how many full power flashes on the flash tube itself? I'm going to shoot at 1/4 but I imagine the lifetime rating is at full power.

 

[MikeInOr]

Is the venue inside out outside. If it is inside I wouldn't use any modifiers at all and point the flash at a wall or at the ceiling. This should give you a softer more encompassing light than any modifier will.

If the venue is outside this is where you will need a modifier to soften the light and pull it off axis. What modifier you use will depend on how big of a rig you will want to carry around with you. The flash with the white card extended is the minimum.

 

[ronfab1]

Welp ..... last night was my 3 hour shoot at this 60th HS reunion. Good news / bad news to report. First the good. I got a ton of shots using manual settings with the flash in that just barely forward from the vertical position and the Sto-Fen diffuser on it, and was glad I opted instead of the 35mm F/1.4 Sony Zeiss lens to use my 24-70mm Sigma Art 24-70mm 1st generation lens. That made things so much easier. There were even some shots I hit my preset button to switch to the APS-C crop for 105mm on my A7r III. So little work to be done in Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop compared to available light shooting. And at the end running through Topaz AI to finish them off ..... the shots look terrific and there's backgrounds not darkness. Even though it was like a 12-14 tall some soft shade of white ceiling. And for down and dirty easy help on helping these folks with wrinkles a bit but a lot with the texture of their skin, I'm using the Facial Recovery option as well with the settings between 34 and 50ish .... depending. Hardly using any sharpening which would be counter productive in that regard, and just letting Topaz do its thing with noise reduction and the Facial Recovery with me tweaking some of those. Probably going to wind up with 200-300 optimized photos and they should be thrilled with them.

The bad news .... I wanted at times to rip that Flashpoint unit off the camera and throw it out the front door. I kid you not, and it got worse later toward the end, even with a fresh battery (I mean I was only shooting 1/4 power with it and giving it time to see the green light in my camera's VF and back LCD panel) .... and that sucker misfired 30-40% of the time just guessing. Loosened it up on the hot shoe, shoved it forward again and cranked it tight and made no difference.

So my questions now again are these please.

Is this rather rare? Or should I not buy another Flashpoint speed light? I like the form factor and the batteries are beasts, but I know Godox makes what looks like the same units. And of course there is Sony, but they seem really high priced into the $300-400 range, or maybe those are the beefier more powerful units? Can I get a Sony unit in the range of $200 roughly, hopefully less? Just because I guess I could trust it more than an off brand? This unit of mine has only been tested around the house up until last night so not hardly any wear and tear on it. Is it ALWAYS the speed light's fault typically, or is it ever the camera? (I'd sure expect and hope NOT).

What would be my best bet to replace it with? That was about as informal an event as they come, god forbid if it hadn't been and I couldn't have kept shooting until I got the stupid thing to fire for the shots I wanted.

As always thanks for thoughts here. )

 

[Gato Amarillo]

Glad it went well overall. Too bad about the flash problem, but I think you mentioned in an earlier post that it was missfiring.

This does sound like the flash is failing. I recommend you replace it.

The Flashpoint R2 are made by Godox, just rebranded and with a better warranty.

As far as the camera makers brands, they may or may not be built to a higher standard than Godox, but I can't see that it's enough to justify the price. When I went with Godox I could buy three Godox for much less than two of the camera brand. So I could keep a spare handy -- even the best equipment can fail or be broken.

Again, glad it went well. Good job.

Gat

 

[A-Marc]

The bad news .... I wanted at times to rip that Flashpoint unit off the camera and throw it out the front door. I kid you not, and it got worse later toward the end, even with a fresh battery (I mean I was only shooting 1/4 power with it and giving it time to see the green light in my camera's VF and back LCD panel) .... and that sucker misfired 30-40% of the time just guessing. Loosened it up on the hot shoe, shoved it forward again and cranked it tight and made no difference.

this may be different to camera brand. my camera (sony) doesnt show me when the flash is ready to fire. the flash itself does indeed.

the green dot in the evf or lcd is a focus indicator, this way the camera tells me that the focus is set.

 

[rumple]

the shots look terrific

Show us some pics?

The bad news .... I wanted at times to rip that Flashpoint unit off the camera and throw it out the front door.

If someone owns one flash, it should be OEM.

I like the form factor and the batteries are beasts, but I know Godox makes what looks like the same units

They are the same, just re-branded.

. And of course there is Sony, but they seem really high priced into the $300-400 range, or maybe those are the beefier more powerful units? Can I get a Sony unit in the range of $200 roughly, hopefully less?

eBay. But for peace of mind, get a new one from your LCS.

That was about as informal an event as they come, god forbid if it hadn't been and I couldn't have kept shooting until I got the stupid thing to fire for the shots I wanted.

Hence a spare:

• speedlight;
• lens; and
• body -

if you're being paid. If not, still a consideration.

 

[Klaus dk]

[...]
If someone owns one flash, it should be OEM.

IMHO, OEM speedlights are legalised highway robbery. If your Flashpoint speedlight misfires at that rate, contact Adorama for a replacement. If all Godox flashes were like that, they would not have the market share they have.

[...]
Hence a spare:

• speedlight;
• lens; and
• body -

if you're being paid. If not, still a consideration.

If you're being paid, there's no doubt, if you're not being paid, it's a question of pride.

 

[ronfab1]

LOL …. either “OH!” or “Duh” would work for my response to the green light in the camera displays being for “in focus” signal, not ready to flash indicator. Have had this camera probably 6 years and was unaware of the green light (or had simply forgotten) since you can tell otherwise when it hits focus.

So let me ask this then. What exactly on the back of this flash unit is supposed to go green when it’s ready to fire again? Nothing ever does. Is it the button on lower left side next to the wheel that you manually fire the flash with? That is always red and never turns green. None of the other buttons turn green. The ONLY thing green on this thing is the LCD display for several seconds when I first power it up, and then goes out and doesn’t illuminate any more.

I will post some pics for sure but need to edit them for awhile first with the sheer quantity. Probably a day or two.

 

[A-Marc]

LOL …. either “OH!” or “Duh” would work for my response to the green light in the camera displays being for “in focus” signal, not ready to flash indicator. Have had this camera probably 6 years and was unaware of the green light (or had simply forgotten) since you can tell otherwise when it hits focus.

So let me ask this then. What exactly on the back of this flash unit is supposed to go green when it’s ready to fire again? Nothing ever does. Is it the button on lower left side next to the wheel that you manually fire the flash with? That is always red and never turns green. None of the other buttons turn green. The ONLY thing green on this thing is the LCD display for several seconds when I first power it up, and then goes out and doesn’t illuminate any more.

I will post some pics for sure but need to edit them for awhile first with the sheer quantity. Probably a day or two.

there is a button on the flash unit "test" when this is illuminated mostly its red, but ignore the color, than the flash is ready to fire.

 

[ronfab1]

Ahh .... OK. There's definitely something whack with this flash unit. I'll give Adorama a call but really can't expect much from them since I bought it back in like October of 2019. Though I have spent a lot of money with them over the years. Same with B&H.

 

[Jacques Cornell]

Welp ..... last night was my 3 hour shoot at this 60th HS reunion. Good news / bad news to report. First the good. I got a ton of shots using manual settings with the flash in that just barely forward from the vertical position and the Sto-Fen diffuser on it, and was glad I opted instead of the 35mm F/1.4 Sony Zeiss lens to use my 24-70mm Sigma Art 24-70mm 1st generation lens. That made things so much easier. There were even some shots I hit my preset button to switch to the APS-C crop for 105mm on my A7r III. So little work to be done in Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop compared to available light shooting. And at the end running through Topaz AI to finish them off ..... the shots look terrific and there's backgrounds not darkness. Even though it was like a 12-14 tall some soft shade of white ceiling. And for down and dirty easy help on helping these folks with wrinkles a bit but a lot with the texture of their skin, I'm using the Facial Recovery option as well with the settings between 34 and 50ish .... depending. Hardly using any sharpening which would be counter productive in that regard, and just letting Topaz do its thing with noise reduction and the Facial Recovery with me tweaking some of those. Probably going to wind up with 200-300 optimized photos and they should be thrilled with them.

The bad news .... I wanted at times to rip that Flashpoint unit

Which flash? Was firmware current?

off the camera and throw it out the front door. I kid you not, and it got worse later toward the end, even with a fresh battery (I mean I was only shooting 1/4 power with it and giving it time to see the green light in my camera's VF and back LCD panel) .... and that sucker misfired 30-40% of the time just guessing. Loosened it up on the hot shoe, shoved it forward again and cranked it tight and made no difference.

Did you test the flash in advance of the event? You might have gotten a lemon, or the foot might have been damaged at some point - the electrical contacts at the front of the foot are not the sturdiest things - thanks, Sony! - which is why I always keep protectors on the flash feet and in the camera hotshoes when not in use.

What do you mean by "misfired"? No flash? Over/under exposure?

Are you sure your camera's hotshoe is good? Have you tested it with another flash?

So my questions now again are these please.

Is this rather rare?

I've been using Godox (or Flashpoint equivalents) V850, V850II, V860II, V850III, V860III, TT350, and V1 speedlights starting right after the first V850 hit the market many years back, and I have had zero reliability issues with any of them on my Panasonic GX7, GX8, GX9 and Sony a7RII, a7RIII, a7C, a7IV, and a7RV.

Or should I not buy another Flashpoint speed light? I like the form factor and the batteries are beasts, but I know Godox makes what looks like the same units.

They are identical, right down to the firmware updaters. Godox makes them, and Flashpoint puts their label on and offers a US warranty and tech support.

And of course there is Sony, but they seem really high priced into the $300-400 range, or maybe those are the beefier more powerful units? Can I get a Sony unit in the range of $200 roughly, hopefully less? Just because I guess I could trust it more than an off brand? This unit of mine has only been tested around the house up until last night so not hardly any wear and tear on it. Is it ALWAYS the speed light's fault typically, or is it ever the camera? (I'd sure expect and hope NOT).

What would be my best bet to replace it with? That was about as informal an event as they come, god forbid if it hadn't been and I couldn't have kept shooting until I got the stupid thing to fire for the shots I wanted.

Flash gear goes bad. It's not a question of if but when. This I have learned from 20+ years as an event pro. Always have a backup. At around $100 for Godox/Flashpoint units that take AA batteries, it's not too much of a financial stretch to have more than one.

As always thanks for thoughts here. )

--
Event professional for 20+ years, travel & landscape enthusiast for 30+.
http://jacquescornell.photography
http://happening.photos

 

[Jacques Cornell]

LOL …. either “OH!” or “Duh” would work for my response to the green light in the camera displays being for “in focus” signal, not ready to flash indicator. Have had this camera probably 6 years and was unaware of the green light (or had simply forgotten) since you can tell otherwise when it hits focus.

So let me ask this then. What exactly on the back of this flash unit is supposed to go green when it’s ready to fire again? Nothing ever does. Is it the button on lower left side next to the wheel that you manually fire the flash with? That is always red and never turns green. None of the other buttons turn green. The ONLY thing green on this thing is the LCD display for several seconds when I first power it up, and then goes out and doesn’t illuminate any more.

I will post some pics for sure but need to edit them for awhile first with the sheer quantity. Probably a day or two.

The Test/Power light on the left side goes off while recycling and lights red when ready to fire.

You said you had it at 1/4 power, so I'd expect recycle to be under a second. What kind of batteries were you using - alkaline, NiMH? Weak batteries can greatly slow recycle, and it's easy to fire off frames faster than you realize in the excitement of the moment.

...Hang on. I just looked at some older posts. Did you have the flash on a bracket? Did you use a TTL sync cord to connect the flash to the camera's hotshoe? Base on years of frustrating experience with those @#$^&ing cords, I swore them off the minute Godox offered radio triggers with the V850. I hate them with a burning passion. Even a good one can go bad after just a few days or hours of use. Never again.

--
Event professional for 20+ years, travel & landscape enthusiast for 30+.
http://jacquescornell.photography
http://happening.photos

 

[ronfab1]

Apologies I haven't fully read your message.

When I flash at indoor events, I usually have the flash + diffuser (see below) pointed up, beyond vertical. This allows you to bounce off ceilings (and avoid blinding your subjects!). Different if it's outdoors.

I typically use the plastic diffuser that comes with my (Canon) speedlights, but I generally shoot sport now (so we're talking post-game shots etc). However in the past I have shot with a larger diffuser light the Gary Fong Lightsphere. It's very very good for this purpose.
The GFLS will mean you always have your flash pointing up, but the light is diffused in all directions (you can add a bit of paper or reflector on the rear side of the GFLS if you want to get technical).

TTL is fine, but I far prefer to shoot with my own power setting. I find TTL it a bit hit and miss with some shots, and depending on the circumstance, you can't afford that (don't be afraid to say "Oh one moment, can we please take one more?" during the event!).

These days my 'typical' settings would be;

• f5.6 (or f6.3)
• ISO 400 (maybe 800 if it's in more open space)
• 1/125th or 1/160th

That leaves me with the flash on anywhere from about 1/2 power to 1/8 depending on the space I'm in.

For me the aperture and ISO are the most important, you can mix and match with the shutter speed and flash power beyond that.

Good luck. I recommend taking the step away from TTL. It's hard first step, but it's very rewarding.

Hi Dan

I settled on your "go manual" advice and have been doing a lot of tests with my A7r III Sony in those same ranges, though for people and group shots I won't go higher than 1/80 shutter speed. I decided against the paparazzi bracket and will go with the speed light almost vertical as in the photo with any kind of a reasonable ceiling height, with the Sto Fen diffuser, and 5.6 or 6.3 at 1/4 power flash with ISO in those same ranges 400 - 800. Very happy with the results and especially after working from the RAW files and Topaz AI. In fact I do see a lot of benefit in the Facial recovery used with the noise reduction and/or sharpening to smooth rough skin and mild imperfections.. BUT and it's a Big BUT .... going manual at those lower ISOs and the shutter speed and not wide open apertures makes my viewfinder extremely dark if the room is dim at all. With Aperture priority and TTL it stays open for composition and seeing people and groups well. For you or any Sony owners .... is there any way to shoot on camera flash with fully manual settings and keep the VF bright enough to see well what is going on? The camera still focusses fine with the red beam in the dim light but how do you "manual setting" event flash guys in low light keep brightness in the eye view finder?

Let's not go off the rails here since the posts are piling up. No bracket. Yes of course was tested prior, and as mentioned then was acting up. Wasn't sure at the time if maybe I had fixed something. Had backup light to attach if had to, and knew these were type of shots I could shoot until it fired .... worst case. Fixed my dark viewfinder issue with manual shooting, per someone's post to find and disable the WYSIWYG setting in the menu. Lithium block batteries that come with these Godox/Flashpoint units. Two. One virtually new and one brand new. Bottom line the ton of photos shot are great after optimizing RAW files am still working on. Bottom line #2 ..... there's definitely a problem with the UNIT. Pics to follow in a day or two. Thanks!!

@Jacques .... honestly don't know about the camera hot shoe. Guess that's a possibility. And don't know about flash unit's firmware. Would it need to change if I haven't changed A7r III's since I bought it 6 or so years ago, and I can at times here, as stated with 1/4 flash power set, shoot rapidly 5, 6, 7 shots? Then randomly it will misfire no flash like 3 in a row NOT shooting rapid fire, and not hot at all. If it's capable of acting perfectly normally "in stretches" .... would that "seem" to indicate firmware and the hot shoe on both camera and flash unit are OK?

 

[BAK CDN]

In years past, DPReview had many postings about Godox Speedlights not being compatible with Sony cameras. I have not seen and reference to those problems for months.

I believe that it is highly unlikely you are suffering from this past history, but maybe...

My suggestion is that you try to get the camera and flash working properly. If you succeed, good.

If you fail. then you'll need to buy a new camera or a new flash, or both.

MANUAL means two things.

You mentioned you were using manual settings. Do you mean you set the camera's ISO, shutter speed and aperture? Not P or A or TV/Shutter priority, etc.?

Or by manual did you set the flash so the screen on the back of the flash said M instead of ETTL or TTL or something similar. Or did you set ETTL?

Or did you set both the camera and the flash on Manual?

And I think you said you used 1/4 power. Do you have a short (not too much typing) explanation why?

And finally, did you see a red light on the lower left of the back of the flash for a couple of seconds when you turned the flash on, and then the light turned green?

When the flash worked for a shot, and then the flash stopped working, was the light red, green or out?

My experience and best guess: I have two Godox and one Canon speedlight, and the only time they do not work is when I take too many shots in a row without allowing enough time to recharge between shots, With luck, that'll be your problem, solable by showing down a bit.

BAK

 

[Jacques Cornell]

Apologies I haven't fully read your message.

When I flash at indoor events, I usually have the flash + diffuser (see below) pointed up, beyond vertical. This allows you to bounce off ceilings (and avoid blinding your subjects!). Different if it's outdoors.

I typically use the plastic diffuser that comes with my (Canon) speedlights, but I generally shoot sport now (so we're talking post-game shots etc). However in the past I have shot with a larger diffuser light the Gary Fong Lightsphere. It's very very good for this purpose.
The GFLS will mean you always have your flash pointing up, but the light is diffused in all directions (you can add a bit of paper or reflector on the rear side of the GFLS if you want to get technical).

TTL is fine, but I far prefer to shoot with my own power setting. I find TTL it a bit hit and miss with some shots, and depending on the circumstance, you can't afford that (don't be afraid to say "Oh one moment, can we please take one more?" during the event!).

These days my 'typical' settings would be;

• f5.6 (or f6.3)
• ISO 400 (maybe 800 if it's in more open space)
• 1/125th or 1/160th

That leaves me with the flash on anywhere from about 1/2 power to 1/8 depending on the space I'm in.

For me the aperture and ISO are the most important, you can mix and match with the shutter speed and flash power beyond that.

Good luck. I recommend taking the step away from TTL. It's hard first step, but it's very rewarding.

Hi Dan

I settled on your "go manual" advice and have been doing a lot of tests with my A7r III Sony in those same ranges, though for people and group shots I won't go higher than 1/80 shutter speed. I decided against the paparazzi bracket and will go with the speed light almost vertical as in the photo with any kind of a reasonable ceiling height, with the Sto Fen diffuser, and 5.6 or 6.3 at 1/4 power flash with ISO in those same ranges 400 - 800. Very happy with the results and especially after working from the RAW files and Topaz AI. In fact I do see a lot of benefit in the Facial recovery used with the noise reduction and/or sharpening to smooth rough skin and mild imperfections.. BUT and it's a Big BUT .... going manual at those lower ISOs and the shutter speed and not wide open apertures makes my viewfinder extremely dark if the room is dim at all. With Aperture priority and TTL it stays open for composition and seeing people and groups well. For you or any Sony owners .... is there any way to shoot on camera flash with fully manual settings and keep the VF bright enough to see well what is going on? The camera still focusses fine with the red beam in the dim light but how do you "manual setting" event flash guys in low light keep brightness in the eye view finder?

Let's not go off the rails here since the posts are piling up. No bracket. Yes of course was tested prior, and as mentioned then was acting up. Wasn't sure at the time if maybe I had fixed something. Had backup light to attach if had to, and knew these were type of shots I could shoot until it fired .... worst case. Fixed my dark viewfinder issue with manual shooting, per someone's post to find and disable the WYSIWYG setting in the menu. Lithium block batteries that come with these Godox/Flashpoint units. Two. One virtually new and one brand new. Bottom line the ton of photos shot are great after optimizing RAW files am still working on. Bottom line #2 ..... there's definitely a problem with the UNIT. Pics to follow in a day or two. Thanks!!

@Jacques .... honestly don't know about the camera hot shoe. Guess that's a possibility. And don't know about flash unit's firmware.

I suggest you check that it's up-to-date.

Would it need to change if I haven't changed A7r III's since I bought it 6 or so years ago,

I upgraded my a7RIII to firmware v3.0 and stopped there, as 3.0 greatly improved AF and subsequent updates caused problems with third-party batteries and added no improvements I needed.

and I can at times here, as stated with 1/4 flash power set, shoot rapidly 5, 6, 7 shots? Then randomly it will misfire no flash like 3 in a row NOT shooting rapid fire, and not hot at all. If it's capable of acting perfectly normally "in stretches" .... would that "seem" to indicate firmware and the hot shoe on both camera and flash unit are OK?

At 1/4 power, I'd expect no trouble shooting one frame every second for as long as you like. I just tried it with my V860III, and it fired 3-4 shots as fast as I could push the button, then paused about 1 second for the next pop.

IDK why your flash stopped for extended periods of time. Seems weird. I've never run into this with any of my many Godox/Flashpoint flashes. So, probably a fault with the flash, firmware, or hotshoe. You might try cleaning the electrical contacts on the foot and in the hotshoe.

What's your backup light, and any issues with it on the same camera?

--
Event professional for 20+ years, travel & landscape enthusiast for 30+.

Landscape & Wedding Photographer - Jacques Cornell

Jacques Cornell Photography - landscape, travel, portrait and art reproduction

jacquescornell.photography

Happening Photos - Event Photography in New York City

Event Photography in New York City and Around the World - conferences, sales meetings, fundraisers and more.

happening.photos

 

[ronscuba]

I would inspect the hot shoe on the speedlite. Older models have a plastic shoe. The plastic tabs on the sides of the shoe keep the pins aligned correctly. If one is broken or worn down, the speedlight will shift, pins get out of pefect alignment and misfire.

 

[Gato Amarillo]

I would inspect the hot shoe on the speedlite. Older models have a plastic shoe. The plastic tabs on the sides of the shoe keep the pins aligned correctly. If one is broken or worn down, the speedlight will shift, pins get out of pefect alignment and misfire.

This. I believe Godox offers an improved hotshoe as a replacment part. Even if the the OP has the new style it might be worth a few bucks to try a replacement.

But I had very similar problems with a TT685 on Panasonic, so my bet is the flash is defective.

Gato

 

[ronfab1]

@BAK CDN .... Everything you ask is covered either in the post directly above yours, or in my comments above that this page. "If you fail. then you'll need to buy a new camera or a new flash, or both". Seriously???

@Jacques Cornell .... Just checked A7r III firmware and it's v3.01 from when I bought it. Not sure how to check the version on the Flashpoint unit. BUT as asked .... if it's capable of working perfectly and firing off 6, 7, 8 shots rapidly (tested again this morning) in one quick test from the shutter release, and then on the shoot from 2 days ago I have come across in my editing scenes (flash had NO reason to be hot and was not hot) (plus had put fully charged new battery in already and neither dropped below 3 bars) .... where I shot 4 times in a row on the new scene and it did not fire. And I had just walked to the new scene from shooting less than 15-20 seconds earlier. No reason to go on standby. Seems to me that says it's the flash unit.

My backup light and works fine is pictured on the very first post. From when I have shot hybrid photos and video at an event. It's a dimmer controlled, strong 3200K, 4000K or 5500K switchable video light with thick plexiglass diffuser on it. Which had worked great in the past with this camera. I wanted to do it correctly this time with flash, especially with people pushing 80 years old to help with wrinkles, etc with the more powerful fill light. Mission accomplished in that regard.

@ronscuba and @Gato Amarillo .... just checked both the camera hot shoe and the shoe on the flash unit in bright light with magnifying glass and nothing is broken and pins on both are perfect.

Getting ready to call Adorama now and see what their take is.

 

[BAK CDN]

I went back to earlier messages, and still seem to be without some info.

Did you set the flash on M or ETTL?

Anyway, on my re-reading I noticed you took several pictures in a row with flash, and then immediately pressed the shutter for several shots where the flash did not go off.

That seems to me to indicate you used up the electricity in the capacitor, and did not wait for recharging.

Regardless, About needing a new camera and flash...

Can you find someone with a Sony camera you can borrow that locks up with your flash but works with a different (borrowed) flash. That will tell you your flash is busted.

Put your (questionable) flash on the borrowed camera.

If it works, you know your camera is busted.

And it is possible neither your camera will work with the borrowed flash nor will your flash work with the borrowed camera.

The Sony / Godox bad history my overlap the historical problem.

Thus, the need for new camera and new flash. As best as I can tell, Sony and Godox get along fine in 2024.

If you insist on Sony, if I was in the USA, I'd get a Flashpoint Adorama Version of the Godox V1 (latest Sony version) and a Sony-dedicated Godox trigger.

(I still think your reunion pictures suffered from equipment setting errors)

BAK

 

[ronscuba]

.....

@ronscuba and @Gato Amarillo .... just checked both the camera hot shoe and the shoe on the flash unit in bright light with magnifying glass and nothing is broken and pins on both are perfect.

Getting ready to call Adorama now and see what their take is.

You mentioned it was purchased in 2019 ? Since it is out of warranty, my guess is Adorama will offer to inspect for a charge. Not sure how much $ that is.

Seems your shoe is fine. I replaced my hot shoe on my V860 for $20. Here is a pic if others are curious what I am talking about.

I guess worst case is you get a new speedlight and your existing one becomes dedicated for off camera work.



--

Ron Chau Photography NYC

Ron Chau New York City Wedding and Portrait Photographer

www.ronchauphoto.com

https://www.instagram.com/rchau.photo