First Time Shooting An Event with TTL Flash ... A Few Questions Please

Thanks @ronscuba ..... that's a cheap enough solution to try. Yes I have the earlier plastic version. Do you have a link, please, where I can purchase one of those fine new metal ones? Ummm .... what's required to unhook and rehook back up that ribbon thingy?
 
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@DAK ..... "I went back to earlier messages, and still seem to be without some info. Did you set the flash on M or ETTL?"

MANUAL. Not ETTL. 1/4 power flash, mostly F/5.6, 1/80 shutter, ISO 640. Results excellent just opening up in Adobe Cam RAW and hitting Auto button ..... before even going to the light work required after moving it over into processing side, not to mention what Topaz adds at the end.

"Anyway, on my re-reading I noticed you took several pictures in a row with flash, and then immediately pressed the shutter for several shots where the flash did not go off. That seems to me to indicate you used up the electricity in the capacitor, and did not wait for recharging."

That's not what I said anywhere about during the shoot, and of course I understand that! I said today, just to prove it works correctly SOME of the time, I fired off 6 or 7 rapid flashes with the camera's shutter release, at the same 1/4 power setting. But during the job, there was a point where with like only walking to a new scene and barely 15-20 seconds wait time, I focussed and hit the shutter button 4 times in a row and the flash didn't go off. So it was NOT recycling due to rapid shooting, nor was it hot.

"(I still think your reunion pictures suffered from equipment setting errors)". Sight unseen huh? Based upon what exactly?
 
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OK .... just heard back from Flashpoint tech support at Adorama who just called me. Since there's no way I was overheating the unit, he honed in on .... and I believe someone else mentioned it here back on the first or second page ...... turning off the e-Front Curtain Shutter, which I had not done. My bad for not paying better attention here to whoever said it, if that's all that this was. Sometimes with the lighting the camera decides to use it and sometimes not. But when it does, the flash won't fire he explained. That would also explain why I had multiple no flashes in a row if I was in an area where the camera was choosing to use the e-Front Curtain Shutter. I did correctly have Fill Flash chosen and Wireless Flash off.

Can confirm .... just ran all around the house with bright rooms and dark rooms and like 30 flashes never missed one. LOLOL sure would have been nice on that job.
 
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OK .... just heard back from Flashpoint tech support at Adorama who just called me. Since there's no way I was overheating the unit, he honed in on .... and I believe someone else mentioned it here back on the first or second page ...... turning off the e-Front Curtain Shutter, which I had not done. My bad for not paying better attention here to whoever said it, if that's all that this was. Sometimes with the lighting the camera decides to use it and sometimes not. But when it does, the flash won't fire he explained. That would also explain why I had multiple no flashes in a row if I was in an area where the camera was choosing to use the e-Front Curtain Shutter. I did correctly have Fill Flash chosen and Wireless Flash off.

Can confirm .... just ran all around the house with bright rooms and dark rooms and like 30 flashes never missed one. LOLOL sure would have been nice on that job.
Thank you for the follow-up!

This is one of the reasons I bought all Flashpoint flashes instead of the equivalent Godox flashes... actual real people to talk to!
 
Based upon what exactly?

Based on optimism and hope, to begin with.

Life would be better if all you need to do is move a lever or flip a switch.And then my comment is based on decades of experience getting mixed in here with my belief that there would be another way of setting your camera and flash that would have led to your flash keeping on working.

I photographed a high school 60th graduation anniversary party in the spring of 2023 using a Canon 80D and a Godox V1. Camera set on Manual with a shutter speed of 1/200 and aperture of f8, (as best as I can remember) and flash on E-ttl and full power. Wide angle to short tele Canon EF-S lens.

All the pictures from this shoot are on the hard drive of a computer in storage, so I can't check the meta data.

BAK
 
  1. BAK CDN wrote:
Based upon what exactly?

Based on optimism and hope, to begin with.

Life would be better if all you need to do is move a lever or flip a switch.And then my comment is based on decades of experience getting mixed in here with my belief that there would be another way of setting your camera and flash that would have led to your flash keeping on working.

I photographed a high school 60th graduation anniversary party in the spring of 2023 using a Canon 80D and a Godox V1. Camera set on Manual with a shutter speed of 1/200 and aperture of f8, (as best as I can remember) and flash on E-ttl and full power. Wide angle to short tele Canon EF-S lens.

All the pictures from this shoot are on the hard drive of a computer in storage, so I can't check the meta data.

BAK
What you say there doesn’t compute to the comment saying I could have had better photography results with these people if I hadn’t screwed up my settings. Sight unseen no less. And as a bit of info for you and other people reading you …. the tech said a shutter speed of 1/200 was right on the ragged edge of where THESE flashes start having non-firing issues. Maybe it’s been good for you but just putting out there as a PSA what the Flashpoint rep said. Best of all I really lucked out and didn’t have to buy a whole new camera and flash unit as you suggested as might also be a possibility. Again … seriously?
 
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There's probably over a hundred and fifty photos. These are representative of all of them. I was happy with my setup (aside from the e-Front Curtain Shutter setting being on, which caused so many misfires with no flash) .... with the Sto-Fen diffuser pointed at that just forward of vertical click with the approximate 12' ceilings, on manual both camera and flash. 1/4 power flash, ISO 640, 1/80 SS and mostly F/5.6 with some F/4 and a few F/2.8 mixed in if I was shooting the long end of 70mm on the Sigma lens as an APS-C crop. Gave me very consistent and easy subject lighting to work with in Adobe Camera RAW in PS, with nice background lighting as well. With the final step of Topaz AI, I kept Sharpening out of the equation and used only DeNoise and Recover Faces. I finally settled on setting Recover Faces at a base level of 22. At that level it wasn't obvious IMO and helped a bit with wrinkles and a whole lot with skin texture. I also helped a few people out that "really" needed helping with a bit of manual touch up tricks I've learned over the years.



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Thank you.

And thanks very much again for all the advice and knowledge beforehand from those who commented, that allowed me understand the pros and cons to the different choices of how I could use the Flashpoint speed light. Just loaded them into a private Smugmug gallery to which I’ll share the link to be distributed by the organizers to everyone for viewing and downloading any anyone wants. Forget “probably over 150 photos” …. it was 205 carefully worked from the RAW files. Did this for free for friends but am picking up some new business cards today and a good photo of one will be included, and will ask respectfully for people to save it and pass along to any friends and family they know of in the future with any special events (non wedding …. used to do video and don’t want those long days and the pressure any more) …. and parties.
 
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Please, what would some of you that do this kind of event work have charged for what I did here? It will be good information for me as I am going to do some advertising for similar work. I was there shooting a little over 3 hours and I carefully optimized 205 photographs. Thanks for any comments.
 
Please, what would some of you that do this kind of event work have charged for what I did here? It will be good information for me as I am going to do some advertising for similar work. I was there shooting a little over 3 hours and I carefully optimized 205 photographs. Thanks for any comments.
My experience in the NYC market is that many event pros charge $150-$350/hour of coverage, depending on job specifics, how busy they are, how much experience they have, how good they are at marketing, and who they know.
 
My computer got locked up by compu-scammers today, so I did not see your question until halfway into the football game I'm watching.

If an outide client (not friends or family, including old classmates) asked me to do something like this, I would want to know the purpose of the event.

Maybe a retirement dinner, maybe awards to top sales people, maybe a 50th reunion...

Then I'd figure out a story that tells about the purpose.

Then I'd figure out who I needed to photograph, and how (husband and wife couples side by side, giant cheque presentation in front of the board members,,)

Then I would give some seat of the pants estimate of the deliverables

And finally provide a base price, plus a per picture and per use estimate of probable extras.

And I'd need to know who my client was.

I would not want to sell to dozens of individuals.

BAK
 
Please, what would some of you that do this kind of event work have charged for what I did here? It will be good information for me as I am going to do some advertising for similar work. I was there shooting a little over 3 hours and I carefully optimized 205 photographs. Thanks for any comments.
My experience in the NYC market is that many event pros charge $150-$350/hour of coverage, depending on job specifics, how busy they are, how much experience they have, how good they are at marketing, and who they know.
Curious, in that $150-$350 hr range, is it including culling, editing a certain minimum qty or just handing over files ? Also, who are the clientele paying the low vs the high range ?

--
https://www.ronchauphoto.com/
https://www.instagram.com/rchau.photo
 
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Please, what would some of you that do this kind of event work have charged for what I did here? It will be good information for me as I am going to do some advertising for similar work. I was there shooting a little over 3 hours and I carefully optimized 205 photographs. Thanks for any comments.
My experience in the NYC market is that many event pros charge $150-$350/hour of coverage, depending on job specifics, how busy they are, how much experience they have, how good they are at marketing, and who they know.
Curious, in that $150-$350 hr range, is it including culling, editing a certain minimum qty or just handing over files ? Also, who are the clientele paying the low vs the high range ?
See bold type above.

The range I described above is among event shooters, not for a given shooter. Newbies shooting JPEGs generally charge less than experienced pros processing RAW, handling more complex jobs and providing more/better service to better-funded clients.

All of my colleagues - a dozen or so experienced event shooters - process RAW to deliver top quality. Now that cost of film is no longer a factor, I know of no event shooter who specifies a minimum or maximum quantity. We all shoot until 1) we know we have enough to make the client happy, and 2) the event is over. Better-paying clients are generally institutions of some kind - corporations, nonprofits, education and arts institutions. Smaller-scale clients such as private individuals, alumni groups, local clubs, and small businesses often have tighter budgets.

There is a hierarchy of cost/quality within the NYC market. You don't always get what you pay for, but you never get what you don't pay for. A small-scale event with a tight budget might take a chance with a new shooter who has basic gear, a decent portfolio, a recommendation or two, and the right price. If the client is not picky, or lucks out with an underpriced talent, they might stick with that shooter. OTOH, I lost a long-term client to a lower-priced competitor once. The day after their first event, my inside guy at the client's office emailed me, "Oh man, they were so bad. You would have done so much better." But, the boss there was driven by the bottom line, and although she had high standards, it took her three years to finally admit the cost savings weren't worth the downgrade.

The ones I feel bad for are the new shooters who stumble into working for an agency that pays them $75/hour or even less, and the clients who get inexperienced shooters foisted on them for top dollar, thanks to the agency's glitzy marketing.

Some of my work is through an agency, but it's a good one that pays pretty well and has a roster of really good talent. The pay is less than my independent rate, but someone else does all the front-end and back-end work, so it works out well for me. Incidentally, I've really enjoyed working with some of the agency's other shooters - sometimes on teams of two or three. I've made friends and learned from them, and we hire each other when we need help on our own jobs. Got one of those tomorrow, a nonprofit's big annual fundraising gala, several hundred fancy-dressed folks in a giant ballroom that'll need two of us to cover it properly.

To bring the conversation full-circle, I'll be using two speedlights on stands in the balcony to front-light the stage and back-light the audience. I'll set 'em on TTL and have Godox V1/Flashpoint Zoom Li-on X flashes on two cameras. I know, setting output manually is more reliable, but I really hate to not be ready when available lighting changes or I turn from the stage to the audience, especially since I'd have to adjust settings on two (sometimes three) cameras, so I rely on Av mode, Minimum Shutter with Auto ISO, and TTL with EC adjustment to adapt. It works remarkably well.

--
Event professional for 20+ years, travel & landscape enthusiast for 30+.
http://jacquescornell.photography
http://happening.photos
 
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