Calling All Canon DPP4 Users!

[GR8]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

 

[Ephemeris]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it.

I think 4.20.10.for windows was released April this year.

I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I've found it a fast piece of software for culling and I also used it to process dual pixel RAW which was available on the R5.

I tend to use it in a more scientific way to make comparisons to other softwares to ensure I'm getting sensible results.

It's easy to use.

 

[AbuMahendra]

I only use Canon DPP for the minutely small number of RAW images that I process. I shoot RAW only, but my workflow is simply to transfer in-camera JPEG of the RAW files wirelessly onto an Android mobile device where I pp minimally with Lightroom (free version). KISS.

 

[Andy01]

Until last year my workflow was using DPP to apply lens and profile/WB corrections to my RAW images (because I thought it did a better job than LR), save as 16bit TIFF (and left the desktop churning for hours to get through the conversion), then use LR to do most of the editing of the TIFF files, then use PS selectively for some images that required something more complicated. Sometimes even threw Topaz into the mix for noise reduction.

It was a long, complicated process that chewed disc space (because of the size of the 16bit TIFF files), and took me way too long to crunch through a few thousand images from a holiday.

Following some advice here, I trialed and then bought DxO Photolab 8 at Black Friday last year.

I have found that DxO seems to do as good a job as DPP with the corrections, and a GREAT job of noise reduction, and I can now do about 90% of my processing in one pass in DxO, with some PS for the complicated/challenging ones. It has shortened my processing time and hard disc usage massively, and I haven't used DPP since getting DxO.

 

[Zeee]

I was once a die hard DPP user. The old Canon knows its own RAW engine best thingy. Great colours, etc. I always used it as my primary developer and then sent files to PS to finish, resize and then export. Back then I also preferred Adobe's downsizing algorithms but Canon did improve them over the years.

Great for hobby work but I found that a nightmare for event editing. No matter what scripts I created in PS, etc they were never consistent. It took about 4 trials and finally I adopted Lightroom about 13 years ago. I really started to warm up to LR for all my stuff.

I still keep DPP updated and use it all the time for pre-culling using Quick-Check - Full Screen mode. DPP's sizing algorithm for fit to screen display is very good and shows as a finished Jpeg so it looks great so easy to pick out unwanted files.

However it figures. Six months after I break down and start using LR, Canon introduces DLO. True digital deconvolution.

Here is where I have always been a little confused about DPP. Before DLO there was just Sharpness. Learning on this and other sites (I like others) discovered the 3 phases of sharpening. One reason why I used PS to finish. DPP only offered Sharpness which I guess was/is Capture Sharpening. Or is it for Output Sharpening - which I doubt. There is no output sharpening offered when you process a file using DPP. Most apps offer that at export. Back then to this day DPP still offers the Transfer to PS command. Perhaps this is why?

Back to DLO. Canon has dumped so many good articles and videos in the last 6 or so years. There are many links for DLO but not as good this one I had. It was sorta like a multi page rectangular book with coloured illustrations.

We know Capture sharpening is. Offsetting a lack of sharpness in the RAW image caused by technical limitations of our cameras. This might be caused by various factors such imperfections in lenses or an anti-alias filter on the sensor. Often USM is used as a Global correction. DLO goes further with corrects various optical aberrations, distortions, and other causes of image quality deterioration for each lens specifically.

So what is DLO? Capture sharpening and for the other aberrations and distortions? Or is it just for aberrations and distortions and then you use the Sharpness took to finish it off? Or is the tool for Output Sharpening - which again I doubt. Canon did add USM later as an option which is typical for Capture Sharpening as far as I know.

While writing this something occurred to me. DXO has a lens module but also offers USM. I read a user manual made by one of the members here. USM was there in case your lens was not on DXO's lens optical correction list. Is this the same for DPP?

I have given up trying to find that answer quite a long time ago. I'm still curios because DPP is on my list of possible replacements if Adobe ever ticks me off. Use something like Affinity to finish. I no longer shoot events.

-
When you fail - always "Fail Forward".

 

[MAC]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and

clunky,

sharpening, NR, operations...

but it’s free

free, good colors, DLO, lens corrections...

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

it's free ....

 

[JustUs7]

It’s my primary raw processor, so I’ll keep with the theme of your post.

I like that it’s all Canon. I like Canon’s output for colors. I’m just not always sure what white balance or picture style will look best. So rather than jpeg it - I can apply portrait or landscape or whatever after the fact. And tweak them a bit Portrait is a bit to pink for my family. +1 on the tone slider is just right.

I also have some additional picture styles from Canons Picture Style Editor software (also free) that I can apply. Autumn Hues is one of my favorites.

And I can do things like add the auto lighting optimizer later instead of in camera.

I like that it applies lens profiles as Canon intended.

I like that it works on my photos where they are, in my storage, instead of putting them out on the cloud or having to import them or something.

And I have time to do the dishes or do some cleaning while my raws are converting to jpegs.

And it’s free

 

[Zeee]

It’s my primary raw processor, so I’ll keep with the theme of your post.

I like that it’s all Canon. I like Canon’s output for colors. I’m just not always sure what white balance or picture style will look best. So rather than jpeg it - I can apply portrait or landscape or whatever after the fact. And tweak them a bit Portrait is a bit to pink for my family. +1 on the tone slider is just right.

I also have some additional picture styles from Canons Picture Style Editor software (also free) that I can apply. Autumn Hues is one of my favorites.

And I can do things like add the auto lighting optimizer later instead of in camera.

I like that it applies lens profiles as Canon intended.

I like that it works on my photos where they are, in my storage, instead of putting them out on the cloud or having to import them or something.

I don't want to get into a long unnecessary conversation and I'm not trying to convert you. This is for other readers in case they get the wrong idea. I have been using Lightroom Classic since 2018 and I don't have a single file in the cloud.

After importing my files they are where I put them in my own storage system. Not something LrC did on its own. The only reason for importing files is so LrC can read the metadata and add that to the catalogue database. The catalogue works on the sidelines keeping track of all my edits. The only time I ever think about the catalogue is when I'm chatting about it on a forum.

I store my files on an external drive. Here is my folder/file structure viewing with the Mac OS.



What see when I open DPP.



Here is what I see when I open LrC. Those are the same files. Not duplicates, etc. The only reason that years 2006 to 2010 are missing is I didn't start using LrC until 2011. I never imported them so LrC does not know they exist which is fine. They are there and if someday I felt like importing them I could.

And I have time to do the dishes or do some cleaning while my raws are converting to jpegs.

And it’s free

That is the good part and why DPP is on my list of possible replacements in case I stop using LrC. Back to my roots as a die hard DPP user

--
When you fail - always "Fail Forward".

 

[Zeee]

I just noticed something. I create a new folder for each new year. I see that I normally type RAW in caps, not Raw which I did for 2025. I always add the new year using LrC so the Catalogue knows I made a change. Since it works with the OS and not on its own, any changes are added to original folder structure on the external drive.

Using LrC I'm going to edit Raw 2025 to change it to RAW 2025. When I open the OS, DPP and any other apps will all show RAW 2025.

 

[Zeee]

It’s my primary raw processor, so I’ll keep with the theme of your post.

I like that it’s all Canon. I like Canon’s output for colors. I’m just not always sure what white balance or picture style will look best. So rather than jpeg it - I can apply portrait or landscape or whatever after the fact. And tweak them a bit Portrait is a bit to pink for my family. +1 on the tone slider is just right.

I also have some additional picture styles from Canons Picture Style Editor software (also free) that I can apply. Autumn Hues is one of my favorites.

And I can do things like add the auto lighting optimizer later instead of in camera.

I like that it applies lens profiles as Canon intended.

I like that it works on my photos where they are, in my storage, instead of putting them out on the cloud or having to import them or something.

And I have time to do the dishes or do some cleaning while my raws are converting to jpegs.

And it’s free

I had some questions about the sharpening process and DLO in that longer thread. What is your workflow? You likely use DLO. What about sharpening? Sharpness or USM? When you Convert do you retain the original file size (or resize) and use a different developer to finish? Or do you convert, resize the files for your requirements and end it there?

 

[R2D2]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I still love using DPP for culling my photos. Here's my procedure...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66417841

Enjoy!

R2

 

[MAC]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I still love using DPP for culling my photos. Here's my procedure...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66417841

Enjoy!

R2

interesting,

I tag keepers in 1-3 seconds per pic, with free faststone, which has quick magnifier

 

[R2D2]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I still love using DPP for culling my photos. Here's my procedure...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66417841

Enjoy!

R2

interesting,

I tag keepers in 1-3 seconds per pic, with free faststone, which has quick magnifier

I've heard that's a good one too.

I just did a copy/paste from that other thread...

The “Quick Check” tool is blazing fast and I can run through images as fast as I can hit the arrow keys (works in “magnify” mode too).

A tip for vetting your images in DPP: In the “Quick check window settings” set it to “Show original image.” It will render the images faster.

I select all of my images and then open them in “Quick Check.” I then check all of the images (at x1) for critical sharpness (just double-click the image to magnify). Use the left and right arrow keys to move through the images. Press the “ x “ key to mark an image for later deletion (it’ll say “Reject”). Or press one of the number keys to give it a Star rating (press “ 0 “ to clear ratings).

You just have to remember to click once somewhere inside the image (to re-enable these hot-keys) if you click on any of the buttons on the right side of the work area.

After you’re done in Quick Check, then return to the main window. Click Edit > Rating > Select rejected images only, and now you can delete all of the rejects. Voila! : D

After culling (and some rating) I then open in DxO Photolab for editing. DxO pulls your star ratings from the EXIF, so you can be selective with the images to edit.

 

[MAC]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I still love using DPP for culling my photos. Here's my procedure...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66417841

Enjoy!

R2

interesting,

I tag keepers in 1-3 seconds per pic, with free faststone, which has quick magnifier

I've heard that's a good one too.

I just did a copy/paste from that other thread...

The “Quick Check” tool is blazing fast and I can run through images as fast as I can hit the arrow keys (works in “magnify” mode too).

A tip for vetting your images in DPP: In the “Quick check window settings” set it to “Show original image.” It will render the images faster.

I select all of my images and then open them in “Quick Check.” I then check all of the images (at x1) for critical sharpness (just double-click the image to magnify). Use the left and right arrow keys to move through the images. Press the “ x “ key to mark an image for later deletion (it’ll say “Reject”). Or press one of the number keys to give it a Star rating (press “ 0 “ to clear ratings).

You just have to remember to click once somewhere inside the image (to re-enable these hot-keys) if you click on any of the buttons on the right side of the work area.

After you’re done in Quick Check, then return to the main window. Click Edit > Rating > Select rejected images only, and now you can delete all of the rejects. Voila! : D

After culling (and some rating) I then open in DxO Photolab for editing. DxO pulls your star ratings from the EXIF, so you can be selective with the images to edit.

thanks

depends on the shoot whether I delete or not

in Faststone I tag keeps, then select all keepers, then copy and paste to a new folder where I process in dxo photolab

for a carefree shoot I can even tag the photos on the card and delete the rest - very fast

 

[Love_my_R5]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I use and like DPP for some processing. As others have mentioned, I screen (cull) images using the Quick Check feature. I also use the Batch Process command to downscale HIF images to reduce file size before importing them into macOS Photos.

DPP is also required to read the Canon metadata for RAW and HEIF HDR-PQ files. This may also apply to the Highlight Tone Priority (HTP) feature. That said, some versions of Lightroom (and possibly other software) may correctly interpret Canon-specific metadata.

I use DPP (V4.20.30) on an M2 Mac mini (16GB) with an ASUS HDR 2k monitor using macOS Sequoia. DPP can be a bit sluggish for some operations but overall it works quite well.

 

[GR8]

I tend to use it in a more scientific way to make comparisons to other softwares to ensure I'm getting sensible results.

It's easy to use.

Thanks. Just curious, are the "scientific" comparisons based on your experience that some or all of DPP4's colors/profiles/lens corrections set the standard? Are there any particular profiles or settings that you like most?

 

[GR8]

I had some questions about the sharpening process and DLO in that longer thread. What is your workflow? You likely use DLO. What about sharpening? Sharpness or USM? When you Convert do you retain the original file size (or resize) and use a different developer to finish? Or do you convert, resize the files for your requirements and end it there?

FWIW, my amateur "workflow" - which is likely in need of improvement (ALL SUGGESTIONS/CRITICISMS ARE WELCOME!) - is usually something like this:

1. Click to edit an individual photo
2. Crop as appropriate
3. Choose WB (either with a preset - usually Auto White priority - or by using the dropper)
4. Choose Picture Style (usually Standard)
5. Click "Auto" Gamma Adjustment
6. Tweak the individual controls (e.g., contrast, shadow, highlight) and adjust gamma midpoint as necessary
7. Enable/adjust ALO as necessary
8. Adjust USM as necessary
9. Adjust individual colors/saturation, if necessary
10. Adjust NR controls

DLO is applied automatically, with my lenses saved.

Depending on the context, I'll either retain the full file size when converting or reduce a bit. I do not use a different product after converting.

One of the functions I like and use most in DPP is the copy and paste recipe function, which makes editing much quicker.

 

[GR8]

After reviewing on another thread a passionate debate over some Canon RF users' favorite third-party RAW processing software, I thought it would be helpful to bring together users of Canon’s own software (for those bold enough to admit it!) to share best practices, tips, tricks, hacks, etc. Yes, DPP4 is old, slow, and clunky, but it’s free with our cameras, it does a decent job, and I suspect that I’m not the only one who uses it. I also suspect that my own process could be improved if I were to better understand what works best for others.

So, how do you use DPP4 in processing and editing your photos? What do you like most about it? What settings, sliders, levels, etc. do you particularly like to use or avoid in different situations, and why?

My only request: PLEASE do not use this thread to bash DPP4 or to argue in favor of alternatives. Thanks!

I still love using DPP for culling my photos. Here's my procedure...

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/66417841

Enjoy!

R2

interesting,

I tag keepers in 1-3 seconds per pic, with free faststone, which has quick magnifier

I've heard that's a good one too.

I just did a copy/paste from that other thread...

The “Quick Check” tool is blazing fast and I can run through images as fast as I can hit the arrow keys (works in “magnify” mode too).

A tip for vetting your images in DPP: In the “Quick check window settings” set it to “Show original image.” It will render the images faster.

I select all of my images and then open them in “Quick Check.” I then check all of the images (at x1) for critical sharpness (just double-click the image to magnify). Use the left and right arrow keys to move through the images. Press the “ x “ key to mark an image for later deletion (it’ll say “Reject”). Or press one of the number keys to give it a Star rating (press “ 0 “ to clear ratings).

You just have to remember to click once somewhere inside the image (to re-enable these hot-keys) if you click on any of the buttons on the right side of the work area.

After you’re done in Quick Check, then return to the main window. Click Edit > Rating > Select rejected images only, and now you can delete all of the rejects. Voila! : D

This is great stuff. Thanks, R2!

 

[Zeee]

I had some questions about the sharpening process and DLO in that longer thread. What is your workflow? You likely use DLO. What about sharpening? Sharpness or USM? When you Convert do you retain the original file size (or resize) and use a different developer to finish? Or do you convert, resize the files for your requirements and end it there?

FWIW, my amateur "workflow" - which is likely in need of improvement (ALL SUGGESTIONS/CRITICISMS ARE WELCOME!) - is usually something like this:

1. Click to edit an individual photo
2. Crop as appropriate
3. Choose WB (either with a preset - usually Auto White priority - or by using the dropper)
4. Choose Picture Style (usually Standard)
5. Click "Auto" Gamma Adjustment
6. Tweak the individual controls (e.g., contrast, shadow, highlight) and adjust gamma midpoint as necessary
7. Enable/adjust ALO as necessary
8. Adjust USM as necessary
9. Adjust individual colors/saturation, if necessary
10. Adjust NR controls

DLO is applied automatically, with my lenses saved.

Depending on the context, I'll either retain the full file size when converting or reduce a bit. I do not use a different product after converting.

One of the functions I like and use most in DPP is the copy and paste recipe function, which makes editing much quicker.

Thanks

 

[seliMcc]

I actually just started to seriously use dpp4. I can’t believe I have waited this long to put the effort in. It’s done incredible things for my photos.

I came from Aperture to LR when support for the former ended. Then I just stayed with LR.

I purchased an R1 which was my first mirrorless (I shoot for a living). I just wasn’t impressed with what I was producing with LR. Coming from 5div’s I was expecting something but I wasn’t sure what. So I tried DPP out. I’m hooked.

The images are just wonderful. My workflow is now:

Cull with DPP (I used to use fastrawviewer, which is also excellent). 1* for colour and 2* for black and whites.
Put them into collections colour/black and white.

For the colour photos I;

-Select all photos in the folder view then -

-portrait picture style
-use DLO

-Auto gamma

-alo plus face lighting

i do the same for the BW collection but I check the monochrome style

Then I go through the photos for a check, maybe adjust some colours if I need, or brightness. But they’re generally all quite ready to go to the next step with nothing else. I export the tiffs then

after that i open the tiffs in bridge then in ACR I normally add a contrast curve, I do straightening and cropping, and I use their excellent AI removal to clean up backgrounds (litter, or what have you). That’s basically it, though if there are exposure issues or other tweaks need I sometimes use masks and local adjustments. I go into photoshop from there if I need to retouch skin or something like that .

this has been my workflow for about a month, so it’s still been tweaked

things I noticed immediately, my photos look much better, cleaner - and my editing process is much much quicker

They have just made the Neural Processor thingy available for Macs (well I just noticed it at least), so I am going to see what that’s like on my next few shoots this week.

I’m very excited about DPP - I just think it’s made my photos a notch above what they were before - coupled with the R1 I’m a very happy camper