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"Tips and secrets of the 1D"

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Whiskey

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Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we (newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
 
whereas the 10D only really benefits with RAW for recovering highlights and it doesn't really release more detail, the 1D Springs to life if it is used and more information is released - if you switch off the "RAW + JPG" option, the files aren't too big either ..

Even FVU (the Converter with the 10D downloadable from canon's site) does a great job with 1D files and you get to choose the Colour Matrix AFTER you've shot the pic - or all of them if you want - so you can pick the best :)

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
How do you FEL in that mode? If you put the 550EX on it and want to FEL so you can recompose, how is it possible if the * is the focus button

Thanks

--
Joel
http://www.pbase.com/joels

'A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.'
 
Joel said:
How do you FEL in that mode? If you put the 550EX on it and want to
FEL so you can recompose, how is it possible if the * is the focus
button

Thanks

--
Joel
http://www.pbase.com/joels

'A common mistake people make when trying to design something
completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete
fools.'
Click to expand...
--
Canon 1D, A80, and G-III QL (yes - film)
 
I do it both ways. Each has its purpose. For example, when shooting sports under constant fixed lighting (indoors or outdoors night) having to keep your thumb on the * all the time gets really tiring after a while. (Actually, in these cases I now more often shoot in M mode so the exposure lock is moot).

On the other hand more dynamic lighting conditions perhaps outdoor sports where the subject may be moving from front lit to back lit then setting AF to * is definitely the way to go, so that your exposure doesn't lock until the instant to press the shutter.
DavidP said:
Set CF4 to 1 so that you press * to AF, and release to stop AF.
Half-pressing the shutter locks the exposure. Works great with
AI-Servo.

Give it a week, and you may never shoot any other way.

--
http://www.outboundmusic.com
Your link to independent music!
Click to expand...
 
Hi Whiskey ,

Got mine a month ago . Previously owned the D30 , D60 and 10D .

Love the way it works ... except for the banding and excessive noise in underexposed areas . So , I try as much as possible not to underexpose too much .... Otherwise , I shoot only RAW 16bit Linear . I convert mainly
with FVU , sharpening set to 0 . Matrix 4 . For sharpening , I use
1. Go to Image -> Mode -> Lab Color
2. In Channels select the "Lightness" channel
3. Filters - Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask
Amount: 150%
Radius: 1.5
Threshold: 2
4. Image -> Mode -> RGB Color

Best regards ,

Danny
Whiskey said:
Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we
(newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and
secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
Click to expand...
--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
 
I have never been able to get used to the * button for focus, and I for some reason can't see why it is useful. Using servo AF with your finger on the shutte button half way still lets the camera meter dyanically as the suject is moving into different lighting, so I don't see any difference between your #1 and #2 scenarios. So what, again, is the reason so many people like to use * for focus? I know I must be missing something.

BTW I use the camera in AI-Servo for sports, with the center point active and using CF18 to #2 so that only when I hit the registered AF button does the camera select the AF point for me. Seems to have worked pretty well for lots 'o sports pix.

-Ken

--
http://www.kennethturley.com
http://www.pbase.com/mistereman
 
Has the 1D replaced the 10D in newbie land already? At this pace the 1Ds will be the newbie camera come Christmas. Kodak 14n by New Years?

billtoo
Whiskey said:
Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we
(newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and
secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
Click to expand...
--
billtoo
http://www.pbase.com/billtoo
 
Thank you Nill .

You're right saying ( writing ) there's a lot more to learn from the 1D and I find myself lucky I could eventually acquire the mythical 1D . I dreamed about using one since its introduction but was never wealthy enough to even consider it before the substantial price drop this last month . Despite the banding problems , I'm in heaven . It stays on my desk all time and I take ir with me for my 2 daily trips out of my house .

No billtoo , no 1Ds nor 14n for me . Because I can't dispose of the necessary cash to get one but also to upgrade my pc to the required levels to process the oversized files they produce . One fulfilled dream at a time is just fine .

Best regards ,

Danny
Nill Toulme said:
Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
billtoo said:
Has the 1D replaced the 10D in newbie land already? At this pace
the 1Ds will be the newbie camera come Christmas. Kodak 14n by New
Years?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
 
Your banding shouldn't be so severe as to rise to the level of a "problem." Do you have a noticeable difference between one side of the sensor and the other at high ISO on dark backgrounds? If so you might have a defective camera. My first 1D did this. I sent it back and got a replacement which doesn't do it at all and only exhibits what I would call moderate banding in fairly extreme circumstances... very high ISO shadow areas, underexposure brought back up with a lot of levels adjustment, etc.

Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
Danny@canonians said:
Thank you Nill .
You're right saying ( writing ) there's a lot more to learn from
the 1D and I find myself lucky I could eventually acquire the
mythical 1D . I dreamed about using one since its introduction but
was never wealthy enough to even consider it before the substantial
price drop this last month . Despite the banding problems , I'm in
heaven . It stays on my desk all time and I take ir with me for my
2 daily trips out of my house .
Click to expand...
 
Ken T said:
I have never been able to get used to the * button for focus, and I
for some reason can't see why it is useful. Using servo AF with
your finger on the shutte button half way still lets the camera
meter dyanically as the suject is moving into different lighting,
so I don't see any difference between your #1 and #2 scenarios. So
what, again, is the reason so many people like to use * for focus?
I know I must be missing something.
Click to expand...
The main advantage of using * button during servo AF is to LOCK the focus if you want to re-compose the picture. The sequence I use are:

1. Press * button to track selected focus point.

2. Half press shuttle button to lock exposure.

3. Release * button to lock focus, recompose the picture quickly and press the shuttle button fully.

TL
 
Tuan Luong said:
Ken T said:
I have never been able to get used to the * button for focus, and I
for some reason can't see why it is useful. Using servo AF with
your finger on the shutte button half way still lets the camera
meter dyanically as the suject is moving into different lighting,
so I don't see any difference between your #1 and #2 scenarios. So
what, again, is the reason so many people like to use * for focus?
I know I must be missing something.
Click to expand...
The main advantage of using * button during servo AF is to LOCK the
focus if you want to re-compose the picture. The sequence I use are:

1. Press * button to track selected focus point.

2. Half press shuttle button to lock exposure.

3. Release * button to lock focus, recompose the picture quickly
and press the shuttle button fully.

TL
Click to expand...
That makes sense. It seems this would be tough, though, given that servo AF is used when subjects are moving as in soccer. I can hardly think of a time when capturing action that I could lock the focus and recompose. Just not enough time, unless there was a moment that I wanted to pre-focus for.

But your post does make sense- so thank you.

-Ken
--
http://www.kennethturley.com
http://www.pbase.com/mistereman
 
Thank you for the reply Nill .

No , I don't see any difference ( so far after 1400 shots ) between the two sides of the sensor . Banding appears on ISO 200 shots as well as very visible noise . The higher the ISO settings , the more I get these annoyances , of course . I feel somewhat perplex when comparing with the 10D files . I see how to put some samples here . Maybe you're right and I should send it to the CPS Repair Centre ( Ouch , in Europe ... )

Best regards ,

Danny
Nill Toulme said:
Your banding shouldn't be so severe as to rise to the level of a
"problem." Do you have a noticeable difference between one side of
the sensor and the other at high ISO on dark backgrounds? If so
you might have a defective camera. My first 1D did this. I sent
it back and got a replacement which doesn't do it at all and only
exhibits what I would call moderate banding in fairly extreme
circumstances... very high ISO shadow areas, underexposure brought
back up with a lot of levels adjustment, etc.

Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
Click to expand...
--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
 
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