Reading mode: Light Dark

"Tips and secrets of the 1D"

Go to last post
DavidP said:
I always set CF13 to 1.

This reduces the user-selectable AF points to 11, and (more
importantly) links the spot-metering to the active AF point.

Now if Canon would make all 11 of these points like the center AF
point, I'd be in heaven.
Click to expand...
Precisely! Often I found myself having to stay in 43-point mode just to have access to all 7 in the middle. After a while, I got used to the roughly 5x9 matrix.
 
Thank you David .
There is evident noise and , at ISO3200 , very acceptable but I don't see
noticeable banding where I get some from ISO200 ...

Looks more and more like my 1D is going to be tortured at the CPS Repair Center . I don't like that idea at all !
Best regards ,

Danny
DavidP said:
I'm not on a good monitor for seeing banding in shadows at the moment.

Compare to this ISO3200 shot from my 1D.

http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/images/chad_unprocessed.jpg

--
http://www.outboundmusic.com
Your link to independent music!
Click to expand...
--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
 
This will kill all layers (at least in PS7) which i always positively trying to avoid.
I do:
  • Stamp visible (creates new layer = summary of everything underneath).
  • Blending mode - to "luminosity"
  • Do all USM on this new layer - same effect as sharpening "lightness" in Lab.
  • [optional] add mask to this "sharpened" layer and selectively cover/uncover desired areas.
Gleb
Danny@canonians said:
. I convert mainly
with FVU , sharpening set to 0 . Matrix 4 . For sharpening , I use
1. Go to Image -> Mode -> Lab Color
2. In Channels select the "Lightness" channel
3. Filters - Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask
Amount: 150%
Radius: 1.5
Threshold: 2
4. Image -> Mode -> RGB Color

Best regards ,

Danny
Whiskey said:
Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we
(newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and
secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
Click to expand...
--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
Click to expand...
 
Totally agree.
Can't beleive just a 2 yrs ago i was shooting with something else! :)

Gleb
Chris Clark said:
-Weii as a new owner of the 1D, I am stunned by the image quality
at least in Raw mode anyway. Superb detail and great tonal range. I
am very glad I bought this camera. I may get another to go with it
if I can find one.-
Chris Clark
Click to expand...
 
Were those samples compressed very much? Very odd patterns... I don't think I see those on my 1D. I'm afraid to look now.

--Matt
Danny@canonians said:
Hi Nill ,

Here's what I get in not optimal light conditions but we don't
shoot always
in a studi , don't we ?
http://www.canonians.com/1dbanding.htm
Please , tell me your opinion about .
Maybe it's me expecting too much ...

Best regards ,

Danny

--
Wheelie
webmaster http://www.canonians.com
Shooting the world from a wheelchair !
Click to expand...
 
... set CF4 to 2. This lets you half-press the shutter button to auto-focus and the * button temporarily stops auto-focus. The exposure isn't set until you take the picture.

Considering that most sports shooters will want to auto-focus constantly and only stop the auto-focus rarely, it makes sense to me that the easiest button to press (the shutter button) should start the focus, and the more awkward button (the * button) should be used to pause it.
DavidP said:
Set CF4 to 1 so that you press * to AF, and release to stop AF.
Half-pressing the shutter locks the exposure. Works great with
AI-Servo.

Give it a week, and you may never shoot any other way.

--
http://www.outboundmusic.com
Your link to independent music!
Click to expand...
 
Andrew R Smith said:
... set CF4 to 2. This lets you half-press the shutter button to
auto-focus and the * button temporarily stops auto-focus. The
exposure isn't set until you take the picture.

Considering that most sports shooters will want to auto-focus
constantly and only stop the auto-focus rarely, it makes sense to
me that the easiest button to press (the shutter button) should
start the focus, and the more awkward button (the * button) should
be used to pause it.
Click to expand...
I've always been a CF4-1 guy, mainly because I've never understood exactly how CF4-2 worked. With your explanation, I've realizeed that CF4-2 is much more natural for me, anyway.
Andrew R Smith said:
Don L
Click to expand...
 
Whiskey said:
Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we
(newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and
secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
Click to expand...
I got mine today. A monster of a camera. Can't wait until the sun comes up.

Allan
 
I can lock focus on a back row passer and not have to worry about any other players passing in front of the lens briefly throwing the focus off. I also use it to track a hitter. When they plant to jump I release the * button and focus is locked. Then I follow their jump and release the shutter when they swing. I don't have to worry about accidentally focusing on a blocker's back or a back row passer that happened to get in my way breifly.

Mike
 
10Der upgrading to 1D. Comes in tomorrow. I am seriously excited and this thread has saved me a lot of headaches!! Thanks.

Bob
cspak said:
Whiskey said:
Hey guys, I thought it would be nice to have a thread where we
(newbies, there are lots of us here) could get some "tips and
secrets" of the 1D.

Whiskey

BTW, who here got their 1D within a month ago?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Bob Bennett
 
depends on what you are doing:

CF4 = 2/3 for sports

CF4 = 1 for all other situation, focus lock on the main subject with , recompose the frame and shot (more natural for me).
Don L said:
Andrew R Smith said:
... set CF4 to 2. This lets you half-press the shutter button to
auto-focus and the * button temporarily stops auto-focus. The
exposure isn't set until you take the picture.

Considering that most sports shooters will want to auto-focus
constantly and only stop the auto-focus rarely, it makes sense to
me that the easiest button to press (the shutter button) should
start the focus, and the more awkward button (the * button) should
be used to pause it.
Click to expand...
I've always been a CF4-1 guy, mainly because I've never understood
exactly how CF4-2 worked. With your explanation, I've realizeed
that CF4-2 is much more natural for me, anyway.
Member said:
Don L
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top