rx100 m3,4,5 Setup Suggestions

elliottnewcomb

Forum Pro
Messages
19,637
Solutions
13
Reaction score
4,410
Location
Plainfield, NJ, USA
I have rx100m3, much also pertains to m4,5, but their new features are not included. Any corrections, clarifications, additions are appreciated, I will revise this, and add the m1,2 guide as an addendum.

rx100m3 (4,5) Setup Suggestions

Preface


Don’t want to read and understand the manual and/or very huge menu:

This is specific to m3, much is relevant for m4,5 but new features not here.

My 14 page rx100m1 super condensed manual and learning guide will eventually be included as an addendum, some info is good for any rx100, and will not be repeated here, so view it’s index to see if anything might interest you.

m3,4,5 are different, due to very good IS, and steadier EVF arms-in shooting position. They also do not default to 1/30 as much. With that combo, I am able to shoot 1/30, and if I concentrate, I can shoot 1/20, handheld blur free stills, that is a huge difference. Even arms out lcd, due to IS, I can successfully use slower shutter speeds. The m1, manual’s emphasis on S mode is less relevant, so Gold Auto, Green Auto, P, and A mode can be used more successfully.

Auto ISO in M, is possible in m3,4,5; not available in m1,2.

JPEG. I work hard to get the best setup and master the midget marvel to get the best Jpegs, hoping to do none or very little Post Processing. There are very good Jpeg Only features. I encourage RAW shooters to at least try them, see actual results. Usually RAW shooters have more advanced PP skills, so keep in mind, you can apply those skills to Jpeg Only images.

Extra Batteries: I highly recommend an external charger and a few extra batteries. You will need them when learning the menu and full setup. Ebay inexpensive ones work just fine.

Reset/Initialize: I recommend a full reset/initialize before setup, and, I occasionally reset which eliminates any unwanted/inadvertant settings, reminds me of what and why, and, reminds me of options I may now try.

Fn Menu is the key to successful use of these rx100s. I used to hate the huge menu, however, after using my Oly menu, with settings buried in odd places, in sub-menus I cannot remember exist or where they exist, I came to appreciate Sony’s menu. Once learned, it has a single line for nearly everything.

Dust on Sensor: These are dust magnets, and segmented barrel can suck dust inside. Early rx100m1’s, I think especially MIJ (made in japan) units got dust on sensor, me: 3 times, 2 fixed on warranty, current spots, only show at f8 and beyond. I think something was changed when they moved production to China (MIC). Caution is recommended, a dust sock in pockets, keep it in a case even when not in use.

............................................

Initialize, change defaults, re-assign rockers and buttons, master the beast.

After nearly 5 years, this is my setup, follow/modify these, do it your way, make it yours.

EVF: Raise it, and adjust the diopter lever on it’s top, adjust for screen text, not image.

Top Mode Dial in P to Start.

1. Initialize

a. Toolcase, pg 6,setting reset, initialize, ok, ok, set area/date/time, daylight savings, set time, date format, finally press enter. Play memories page, ok.

2. Power Save Start Time.

a. Toolcase, pg 2, change to 30 minutes while learning/setup, then I use 5 minutes, because: I stroll around, lens out, palmed lens facing down, up to shoot. I do not want it inadvertently turning off just when I get a fleeting opportunity. I think frequent lens in/out uses more power when shooting this way, and you can always turn it off by button or putting EVF down.

3. Camera, pg 1.

a. Quality: change to x.fine, Extra Fine. Same # of pixels, but MUCH LESS compression, like RAW, more info about those pixels. Beneficial for large crops and PP I suspect/believe. Cannot hurt.

b. Movie file format. You choose. I use mp4, good enough for my very limited use. Poor live audio quality using built-in omni-directional frequency limited mics is not acceptable, especially live music. Sound is a big part of home theater experience so I use my old Sony Handy Cam, much more zoom, better sound. New dedicated video cameras are smaller yet.

c. NOTE: Flash Comp. cannot be changed in either Gold or Green Auto. This is key to successful use of flash. I typically use flash cut back in strength, and, I put in in my Fn button menu, and change flash strength shot to shot. Always let flash fully charge, even using it cut back, to get consistent output.

4. Camera pg 2

a. Movie record setting: you choose.

b. Red Eye Reduction: Off. Note, for correct eye color, you may want it on, after pre-flash, red leaves eyes, the camera will capture true eye colors. If you do red eye reduction in post, the software guesses, red eye is gone, eye color?

5. Camera pg 3, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.

NOTE: Focus Area, Exposure Compensation, ISO, ND Filter, all important, cannot be changed in either Gold or Green Auto. (turn top dial to Auto, then back to P). This is why I say “ Get Thee Out of Auto”.

6. Camera pg 4, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.

NOTE: all unavailable in either Auto. Metering Mode (area size) is important.

NOTE: Focus Magnified unavailable, because in AF mode, only available when using MF manual focus. More about MF later.

7. Camera pg 5,No changes. Learn about them later.

8. Camera pg 6, no changes

NOTE: Scene Selection only available if top dial is moved to SCN.

NOTE: Movie only if top dial is moved to Movie.

9. Camera pg 7 Audio and Memory.

a. See audio options so you know about them if you shoot movies.

b. Memory Recall is greyed out, until you setup one or more of the 3 available custom memories: 1,2,3. Subsequently Memory Recall is only available when you move the top dial to MR.

c. Memory. Tricky, but very handy after setup.

First, any PASM, you make changes to your settings via Menu or Fn menu, (this is what people often don’t understand) then go here, Camera pg 7, down to Memory. press center button. Top line is in Register 1 position and screen with many settings appears, (showing you the changes you previously made).

Second: Press Center Button (enter). Now memory 1 is saved. Move Top Dial to MR. Press center button, top line is in 1, and shows your settings.

NOTE. To set up memory 2 or 3, put top dial in any PASM, make the changes, this time for a different type of shot you do, like Sports (top dial in S). Back to pg 7, now, right rocker till top line shows 2. Now press center button, which saves those changes. Same for register 3. Now, top dial in MR, press menu: rocker over to 1,2,3 Bingo, ready for 1. Landscape; 2. Sports; 3 ____?

...............................................................................

10. Gear page 1

a. Zebra, default OFF. On to have it as an aid to see any areas of blown highlights.

b. Focus Magnification Time: Change to No Limit. When in Manual Focus, when you turn the front ring, Focus Magnification automatically happens, you can see focus, and focus peaking easily. Anytime you want to get back to normal framing view, simply half press the shutter button. It doesn’t move the lens like AF would, just jumps to framing view. Your set focus distance is held.

NOTE: Two powers of magnification are available. Initially, turn the front ring, you get 8.6x magnification (see top of lcd). While magnified, press the rear center button, bingo, it doubles magnification to 17.1x, see top of lcd. Press center button again, it toggles back to 8.6x.

c. Auto Review, how long an image shows after it is recorded. I change it according to circumstances. 1. Confirm Framing. 2. Zoom to check focus, to check if anyone had their eyes closed, blurred by movement, etc. 3. Off if using MF, Off if trusting AF to find vertical edges to be consistently successful. You may want 5 sec when camera is new, then back to 2 sec default.

11. Gear pg 2

a. Display Button. You pick any or all of the 6 pages of information you want shown on the lcd while shooting. Then, when you press the top rear rocker (DISP), it toggles thru the pages you chose. Default is 4 pages. You simply chec or uncheck the boxes. I use all, none, uncheck Histogram (forgive me Will), and check Level. I leave for viewfinder, so those choices are for both lcd and EVF. Toggle down to enter to save your choices.

b. Peaking Level, change to Low which turns it on. Try other strengths later.

c. Peaking Color, I change to Yellow

NOTE: Sony’s Manual Focus system/impementation is excellent.

Get in MF, turn front ring, instant magnification 8.6x (option to toggle to 17.1x), Peaking shows on the edges of things in focus. CDAF Contrast Detect focus system finds vertical edges. Turn till the peaking shows on your subject, half press the shutter button, back to framing view, confirm/adjust your framing, shoot.

NOTE: Peaking is only to be used while magnified, it is a mess when in framing view, ignore it, just verify framing.

NOTE: To get back to Magnified from framing, just ‘touch’ the front ring, enough to magnify, but not enough to move the lens much. Confirm or refine focus, shoot.

NOTE: Shooting soft round objects, flowers, bees, you may need to find peaking on a nearby object the same distance away as your soft subject.

d. Pre-AF, default is ON. I leave it on.

Camera automatically Pre-Focuses, once, for any distance you aim it at. Initially, you are unaware, but, pay attention, aim at something close, see it work, aim at something farther away, see it happen again, once. Of course this helps you see your subject, and, it moves the lens in very near physical position, so that final refined focus using AF, at half shutter button press occurs more rapidly, micro-seconds, but, that is how they make it faster and can publish amazing capabilities. Speed is one thing, accuracy is another.

12. Gear pg 3.

a. Zoom Setting.Optical ON is default. I turn CIZ ON, only zoom into it when I want, you can always simply stop at optical. You can watch the lcd or evf, or, when you stop hearing lens motor noise, you have entered extended zoom.

I have much more to say about Jpeg Extra Zooms, but let’s move on.

b. No other changes

....................................................................

13. Gear pg 4, Oh Baby, here we make the beast obey!

a. Function Menu Set. THE KEY to using these miniature marvels.

NOTE: You choose what items, in what order/adjacencies, the settings you use, want to get to in a single button press, not needing to go into the main menu. Now you can change things ‘shot to shot’. And, check how you left it last time.

NOTE: IF, like me, you have a couple of RX’s, it is nice to have things setup consistently. However: rx100m1,2 give you 7 items in one horizontal line. Rx100m3,4,5 give you 12 items, two horizontal lines of six. RX1r gives you two vertical rows, 13 items. Ashamedly, RX1r items are not assignable.

NOTE: What you put here influences the choices you will later have to re-assign the external rockers and buttons, important.

My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup

Upper 1-6: These are what I change ‘shot to shot’.

1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker);

2. Flash Mode (frees up right rocker);

3. Flash Comp. (adjacent to Flash Mode);

4. Focus Mode;

5. Focus Area (adjacent to Focus Mode);

6. Metering Mode (metering area size, adjacent to focus area size).

NOTE: Spot focus can be moved off center, but spot metering is ALWAYS centered. This is why learning to use AEL is worthwhile.

.................................................................

My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup continued

Lower 1-6: These are options I keep here, out of the big menu.

1. Image Size 20,10, 5 mp: (EOZ available at 10mp and 5mp)

2. Image Quality (me: x.fine Jpeg, change to RAW + Jpeg, or RAW)

NOTE: RAW + Jpeg defaults to Jpeg Fine Compression.

3. DRO/Auto HDR (Jpeg only)

4. White Balance Typically Auto AWB, but, fluorescent? mixed with incandescent? mixed with daylight? other presets or K specific Kelvin Temperature. Seems hard, but, if I can do it, so can you.

5. Creative Style. I use it to quickly get to B&W, to visualize in B&W while composing and adjusting exposure, shoot. Back to STD for a matching Color shot. This is also where you can change the defaults for Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness for any pre-set style, std, vivid, etc.

6. Picture Effect. I like HC B&W (high contrast), and I like Watercolor. I find, the more color in the scene, the better the Watercolor effect will look.

NOTE: I often reassign this bottom item 6, for something I am learning.

.......................................................

14. Gear. pg 4. Custom Key Settings

a. Control Ring, default Standard

b. C button: Aspect Ratio: I use full sensor 3:2, I like to shoot 1:1 occasionally, many use 16:9 for their monitors and TVs; now one button, no menu of any kind.

c. Center Button: Center Lock-On AF (tracking focus renamed), OR Eye AF. IOW, the ‘other’ focus mode you use.

Tracking Focus: press rear center button, toggle up or down to off or on. That engages Tracking Focus mode, and a small white box appears in the middle of the lcd. You need to assign it to a subject, like a moving child. Aim so the child’s head is in the white box, then press the rear center button a second time. Now the white box is assigned to that subject, and the white box follows the subject for you, like spot focus area, but automatically following it’s assigned subject. AF works as always, half press fixes the focus distance and metering, full press takes the shot, so, quick full shutter press works best here if the rug rat is still moving. If you or subject moves, white box follows subject.

Or, EYE Focus. I should try it. Perhaps someone can write something to insert here.

d. Left Rocker: AEL Toggle (Auto Exposure Lock). It will use the metering area size you have already set.

First: Press left rocker to engage AEL mode. An * appears at the right end of the info line, bottom of lcd. Note: * and left AEL rocker are intuitively adjacent. Second: Take a shot. The exposure of that shot is now locked, until you press left rocker again. This locks exposure, prior to, and separate from, focus, so next half shutter press only sets focus.

Option: one line down is 2nd AEL method. AEL Toggle, preceded by a box with a spot. Perhaps someone can explain this.

e. Right Rocker: AF/MF Ctrl Toggle. This is the secret of using MF for these.

Camera on, in AF-S as I left it (or AF-C). Want MF for a situation, without taking your eye off the EVF: simply press right rocker. It toggles to MF, turn front ring, magnification, with peaking, refine focus for your subject, shoot. Press right rocker, toggles back to AF. Never need main menu or Fn Button menu, presto, presto again.

f. Zoom Function on Ring: Standard (progressive 24-70) or Zoom to pre-set steps: 24, 28, 35, 50, 70. Note, this works in both Auto’s, not in PASM.

g. Movie Button. I change to Movie Mode Only, so if top dial is not in Movie, if I hit the stupid thing, it doesn’t start a movie. IF you like to start a movie anytime in any mode, leave it in default: Always.

h. Wheel Lock: default Unlock. What does Lock do???

.......................................................

15. WiFi Section. You figure it out. Note: In Play mode, pick an image, press the Fn Button, takes you directly to ‘Send to Smartphone’.

16. Applications Section: You figure it out.

17. Play Section: I never use it

................................................

18. Toolkit Section: we started here to Initialize.

a. Page 1, monitor brightness. Change to Sunny Weather. Auto does not work. Makes a big difference outdoors in glare. Manual brightness is very handy to darken the lcd for non-disruptive use in public places. I use -2, you can see enough to frame, and, even if holding tilted lcd up over peoples heads, you can still see to frame, and in MF, you can still see focus magnification and peaking, enough to select the front or third row, wherever Ben, Cooper, Ava, or Daria are, (soon Adalynn) or the singer at a mic, depending on if you have far or near seats of course.

b. Pg 1, Audio Signals: I change to OFF, not to be disruptive.

c. Pg 2, Display Quality: change to High.

d. Pwr Save Start Time. Now that you have learned the menu, change to 5 minutes.

..................................end...........................

--
Elliott
 
Last edited:
Thanks Elliot. Lots of good advice here. Still in the learning curve with my M5, my first Sony :)
 
Last edited:
Thanks. A nice memo!

e.g. Auto ISO in M mode is something I shall remember next time I go taking flowers close-ups!
 
Thank you, Elliott. This was a ton of work for you. It is very useful tutorial for a brand new RX100V owner!

I have one question for you and the assembled experts here about quickly changing exposure comp. The exposure comp dial is one of the most used controls on both the Sony RX1r II and the Fuji XT2. Plus, in my limited experience with it so far, I find the little RX100V tends to overexpose to my tastes with some frequency.

Having now played with the FUNC button, I see exposure comp as one of the quick menu items, but to access it is a fiddly several step process requiring that one squint at the tiny menus with one's attention completely off the subject to be photographed. First, one must press the little FUNC button; then, looking at the little menu, scroll to the exposure comp tile; then, still squinting at the menu, scroll to the desired plus or minus EV. Then, rather than automatically reverting to 0 EV, the exposure comp setting stays until you go back and actually reverse the entire fiddly process, so it's very easy to have a totally wrong exposure comp setting for subsequent photos.

My question - is there a quick, easy way to access exposure comp on the RX100V?

Thanks in advance!

Greg
 
Good morning

I am fairly new to the camera myself as I purchased it mostly for underwater shooting with a Fantasea housing on an upcoming trip. I believe you might be able to accomplish your goal by setting the Custom Key (Shoot) button to exposure compensation. It is page 5 of the settings menu, in position 2 (C Button). This is assigned to the Trash button when shooting.

Hope this helps

Richard
Thank you, Elliott. This was a ton of work for you. It is very useful tutorial for a brand new RX100V owner!

I have one question for you and the assembled experts here about quickly changing exposure comp. The exposure comp dial is one of the most used controls on both the Sony RX1r II and the Fuji XT2. Plus, in my limited experience with it so far, I find the little RX100V tends to overexpose to my tastes with some frequency.

Having now played with the FUNC button, I see exposure comp as one of the quick menu items, but to access it is a fiddly several step process requiring that one squint at the tiny menus with one's attention completely off the subject to be photographed. First, one must press the little FUNC button; then, looking at the little menu, scroll to the exposure comp tile; then, still squinting at the menu, scroll to the desired plus or minus EV. Then, rather than automatically reverting to 0 EV, the exposure comp setting stays until you go back and actually reverse the entire fiddly process, so it's very easy to have a totally wrong exposure comp setting for subsequent photos.

My question - is there a quick, easy way to access exposure comp on the RX100V?

Thanks in advance!

Greg

--
Check out my photos at: https://www.flickr.com/gp/137747053@N07/4M38jj
--
Richard300
 
Last edited:
The rear bottom rocker is the dedicated +/- exposure comp control for all rx100's

Simply press bottom rocker, a scale shows up on lcd, rocker left or right, shoot.

--
Elliott
 
Last edited:
Thanks, that's easier than my suggestion. Just getting to know the camera as well. I guess I can leave the setting for the Trash icon to ISO : )

Richard
The rear bottom rocker is the dedicated +/- exposure comp control for all rx100's

Simply press bottom rocker, a scale shows up on lcd, rocker left or right, shoot.

--
Elliott
--
Richard300
 
Last edited:
CPL for Outdoor Use is Recommended.

Many agree, the rx100's over-expose, so they shoot -.3, often cut more -.7, as do I. my m3 over-exposes more than my m1 btw.

You can trust what you see in the evf and lcd (even set to sunny weather), so press the bottom rocker, cut away, shoot.

This often leads to lifting shadows in post. It is amazing how much detail lurks in those shadows. Cutting highlights in post gets into trouble much faster, this avoids that.

Using a CPL outdoors helps avoid over-exposure, improves skies, colors, so that your original shot starts 'brighter', meaning you see/get more detail in the shadows as you shoot, reducing, or eliminating the need to lift shadows in post.

I use Kiwi Filter Adapter on both my m1 and m3.

f468b81187554fd29b2990a3196c45ab.jpg

it adds 4.5mm thickness to the camera. Now ready to use or stack CPL,ND,Haze. Keep a lens cap for your filters in mind.

f77d04f485bd45fcac47c56c837714d0.jpg

Now when you want to cut glare, see thru glass, see thru water, CPL is ready to go.

Waterfall, desired water speed appearance, just stack your ND in the sandwich.


Elliott
 
Last edited:
CPL for Outdoor Use is Recommended.

Many agree, the rx100's over-expose, so they shoot -.3, often cut more -.7, as do I. my m3 over-exposes more than my m1 btw.

You can trust what you see in the evf and lcd (even set to sunny weather), so press the bottom rocker, cut away, shoot.

This often leads to lifting shadows in post. It is amazing how much detail lurks in those shadows. Cutting highlights in post gets into trouble much faster, this avoids that.

Using a CPL outdoors helps avoid over-exposure, improves skies, colors, so that your original shot starts 'brighter', meaning you see/get more detail in the shadows as you shoot, reducing, or eliminating the need to lift shadows in post.

I use Kiwi Filter Adapter on both my m1 and m3.

f468b81187554fd29b2990a3196c45ab.jpg

it adds 4.5mm thickness to the camera. Now ready to use or stack CPL,ND,Haze. Keep a lens cap for your filters in mind.

f77d04f485bd45fcac47c56c837714d0.jpg

Now when you want to cut glare, see thru glass, see thru water, CPL is ready to go.

Waterfall, desired water speed appearance, just stack your ND in the sandwich.

Elliott
As always, thanks for your wise counsel, Elliott. Talk about a dumb question to ask! The exposure comp symbol was right there on the back of my camera and I never saw it. That is a quick, easy adjustment which will make this little camera much more useful to me.

It is interesting that you have observed that your RX100's tend to overexpose, too. I've noticed that, once set, the exposure comp stays at that setting until you change it. I'm gonna try setting mine at EV -1.0 as a default setting and see how that works. With the method you've described it is easy enough to change.

I don't really want to have to mess with a CPL (or any filters, adapters, etc, for that matter) on this camera, because I won't be using it for serious photography - have other, much better, equipment for that. I just want to be able to max out the capabilities of this shirt pocket gem without complicating it or hanging stuff on to it.

--
Check out my photos at: https://www.flickr.com/gp/137747053@N07/4M38jj
 
If you care, you can copy the entire initial post, paste it in your doc on a computer, save, modify, print, probably easier than reading here.

to keep formatting: word, arial, 12pt, margins 'moderate' top &b 1''; l&r .75" that should give you 7 pages with somewhat logical page breaks.

then, you paste anything you find anywhere else into the doc, I didn't make a table od contents, might later after revision suggestions.
 
Last edited:
Well, when you have it, leaving the big stuff home, you will likely be shooting outdoors.

I think you are under-estimating it, like Rodney Dangerfield not getting enough respect. If not printing or viewing large, the images are terrific, especially combined with your PP skills.
 
was hoping to get some revisions, clarifications, additions, then revise this.
I have rx100m3, much also pertains to m4,5, but their new features are not included. Any corrections, clarifications, additions are appreciated, I will revise this, and add the m1,2 guide as an addendum.

rx100m3 (4,5) Setup Suggestions

Preface


Don’t want to read and understand the manual and/or very huge menu:

This is specific to m3, much is relevant for m4,5 but new features not here.

My 14 page rx100m1 super condensed manual and learning guide will eventually be included as an addendum, some info is good for any rx100, and will not be repeated here, so view it’s index to see if anything might interest you.

m3,4,5 are different, due to very good IS, and steadier EVF arms-in shooting position. They also do not default to 1/30 as much. With that combo, I am able to shoot 1/30, and if I concentrate, I can shoot 1/20, handheld blur free stills, that is a huge difference. Even arms out lcd, due to IS, I can successfully use slower shutter speeds. The m1, manual’s emphasis on S mode is less relevant, so Gold Auto, Green Auto, P, and A mode can be used more successfully.

Auto ISO in M, is possible in m3,4,5; not available in m1,2.

JPEG. I work hard to get the best setup and master the midget marvel to get the best Jpegs, hoping to do none or very little Post Processing. There are very good Jpeg Only features. I encourage RAW shooters to at least try them, see actual results. Usually RAW shooters have more advanced PP skills, so keep in mind, you can apply those skills to Jpeg Only images.

Extra Batteries: I highly recommend an external charger and a few extra batteries. You will need them when learning the menu and full setup. Ebay inexpensive ones work just fine.

Reset/Initialize: I recommend a full reset/initialize before setup, and, I occasionally reset which eliminates any unwanted/inadvertant settings, reminds me of what and why, and, reminds me of options I may now try.

Fn Menu is the key to successful use of these rx100s. I used to hate the huge menu, however, after using my Oly menu, with settings buried in odd places, in sub-menus I cannot remember exist or where they exist, I came to appreciate Sony’s menu. Once learned, it has a single line for nearly everything.

Dust on Sensor: These are dust magnets, and segmented barrel can suck dust inside. Early rx100m1’s, I think especially MIJ (made in japan) units got dust on sensor, me: 3 times, 2 fixed on warranty, current spots, only show at f8 and beyond. I think something was changed when they moved production to China (MIC). Caution is recommended, a dust sock in pockets, keep it in a case even when not in use.

............................................

Initialize, change defaults, re-assign rockers and buttons, master the beast.

After nearly 5 years, this is my setup, follow/modify these, do it your way, make it yours.

EVF: Raise it, and adjust the diopter lever on it’s top, adjust for screen text, not image.

Top Mode Dial in P to Start.

1. Initialize

a. Toolcase, pg 6,setting reset, initialize, ok, ok, set area/date/time, daylight savings, set time, date format, finally press enter. Play memories page, ok.

2. Power Save Start Time.

a. Toolcase, pg 2, change to 30 minutes while learning/setup, then I use 5 minutes, because: I stroll around, lens out, palmed lens facing down, up to shoot. I do not want it inadvertently turning off just when I get a fleeting opportunity. I think frequent lens in/out uses more power when shooting this way, and you can always turn it off by button or putting EVF down.

3. Camera, pg 1.

a. Quality: change to x.fine, Extra Fine. Same # of pixels, but MUCH LESS compression, like RAW, more info about those pixels. Beneficial for large crops and PP I suspect/believe. Cannot hurt.

b. Movie file format. You choose. I use mp4, good enough for my very limited use. Poor live audio quality using built-in omni-directional frequency limited mics is not acceptable, especially live music. Sound is a big part of home theater experience so I use my old Sony Handy Cam, much more zoom, better sound. New dedicated video cameras are smaller yet.

c. NOTE: Flash Comp. cannot be changed in either Gold or Green Auto. This is key to successful use of flash. I typically use flash cut back in strength, and, I put in in my Fn button menu, and change flash strength shot to shot. Always let flash fully charge, even using it cut back, to get consistent output.

4. Camera pg 2

a. Movie record setting: you choose.

b. Red Eye Reduction: Off. Note, for correct eye color, you may want it on, after pre-flash, red leaves eyes, the camera will capture true eye colors. If you do red eye reduction in post, the software guesses, red eye is gone, eye color?

5. Camera pg 3, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.

NOTE: Focus Area, Exposure Compensation, ISO, ND Filter, all important, cannot be changed in either Gold or Green Auto. (turn top dial to Auto, then back to P). This is why I say “ Get Thee Out of Auto”.

6. Camera pg 4, no changes, I use Fn button menu to change these shot to shot.

NOTE: all unavailable in either Auto. Metering Mode (area size) is important.

NOTE: Focus Magnified unavailable, because in AF mode, only available when using MF manual focus. More about MF later.

7. Camera pg 5,No changes. Learn about them later.

8. Camera pg 6, no changes

NOTE: Scene Selection only available if top dial is moved to SCN.

NOTE: Movie only if top dial is moved to Movie.

9. Camera pg 7 Audio and Memory.

a. See audio options so you know about them if you shoot movies.

b. Memory Recall is greyed out, until you setup one or more of the 3 available custom memories: 1,2,3. Subsequently Memory Recall is only available when you move the top dial to MR.

c. Memory. Tricky, but very handy after setup.

First, any PASM, you make changes to your settings via Menu or Fn menu, (this is what people often don’t understand) then go here, Camera pg 7, down to Memory. press center button. Top line is in Register 1 position and screen with many settings appears, (showing you the changes you previously made).

Second: Press Center Button (enter). Now memory 1 is saved. Move Top Dial to MR. Press center button, top line is in 1, and shows your settings.

NOTE. To set up memory 2 or 3, put top dial in any PASM, make the changes, this time for a different type of shot you do, like Sports (top dial in S). Back to pg 7, now, right rocker till top line shows 2. Now press center button, which saves those changes. Same for register 3. Now, top dial in MR, press menu: rocker over to 1,2,3 Bingo, ready for 1. Landscape; 2. Sports; 3 ____?

...............................................................................

10. Gear page 1

a. Zebra, default OFF. On to have it as an aid to see any areas of blown highlights.

b. Focus Magnification Time: Change to No Limit. When in Manual Focus, when you turn the front ring, Focus Magnification automatically happens, you can see focus, and focus peaking easily. Anytime you want to get back to normal framing view, simply half press the shutter button. It doesn’t move the lens like AF would, just jumps to framing view. Your set focus distance is held.

NOTE: Two powers of magnification are available. Initially, turn the front ring, you get 8.6x magnification (see top of lcd). While magnified, press the rear center button, bingo, it doubles magnification to 17.1x, see top of lcd. Press center button again, it toggles back to 8.6x.

c. Auto Review, how long an image shows after it is recorded. I change it according to circumstances. 1. Confirm Framing. 2. Zoom to check focus, to check if anyone had their eyes closed, blurred by movement, etc. 3. Off if using MF, Off if trusting AF to find vertical edges to be consistently successful. You may want 5 sec when camera is new, then back to 2 sec default.

11. Gear pg 2

a. Display Button. You pick any or all of the 6 pages of information you want shown on the lcd while shooting. Then, when you press the top rear rocker (DISP), it toggles thru the pages you chose. Default is 4 pages. You simply chec or uncheck the boxes. I use all, none, uncheck Histogram (forgive me Will), and check Level. I leave for viewfinder, so those choices are for both lcd and EVF. Toggle down to enter to save your choices.

b. Peaking Level, change to Low which turns it on. Try other strengths later.

c. Peaking Color, I change to Yellow

NOTE: Sony’s Manual Focus system/impementation is excellent.

Get in MF, turn front ring, instant magnification 8.6x (option to toggle to 17.1x), Peaking shows on the edges of things in focus. CDAF Contrast Detect focus system finds vertical edges. Turn till the peaking shows on your subject, half press the shutter button, back to framing view, confirm/adjust your framing, shoot.

NOTE: Peaking is only to be used while magnified, it is a mess when in framing view, ignore it, just verify framing.

NOTE: To get back to Magnified from framing, just ‘touch’ the front ring, enough to magnify, but not enough to move the lens much. Confirm or refine focus, shoot.

NOTE: Shooting soft round objects, flowers, bees, you may need to find peaking on a nearby object the same distance away as your soft subject.

d. Pre-AF, default is ON. I leave it on.

Camera automatically Pre-Focuses, once, for any distance you aim it at. Initially, you are unaware, but, pay attention, aim at something close, see it work, aim at something farther away, see it happen again, once. Of course this helps you see your subject, and, it moves the lens in very near physical position, so that final refined focus using AF, at half shutter button press occurs more rapidly, micro-seconds, but, that is how they make it faster and can publish amazing capabilities. Speed is one thing, accuracy is another.

12. Gear pg 3.

a. Zoom Setting.Optical ON is default. I turn CIZ ON, only zoom into it when I want, you can always simply stop at optical. You can watch the lcd or evf, or, when you stop hearing lens motor noise, you have entered extended zoom.

I have much more to say about Jpeg Extra Zooms, but let’s move on.

b. No other changes

....................................................................

13. Gear pg 4, Oh Baby, here we make the beast obey!

a. Function Menu Set. THE KEY to using these miniature marvels.

NOTE: You choose what items, in what order/adjacencies, the settings you use, want to get to in a single button press, not needing to go into the main menu. Now you can change things ‘shot to shot’. And, check how you left it last time.

NOTE: IF, like me, you have a couple of RX’s, it is nice to have things setup consistently. However: rx100m1,2 give you 7 items in one horizontal line. Rx100m3,4,5 give you 12 items, two horizontal lines of six. RX1r gives you two vertical rows, 13 items. Ashamedly, RX1r items are not assignable.

NOTE: What you put here influences the choices you will later have to re-assign the external rockers and buttons, important.

My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup

Upper 1-6: These are what I change ‘shot to shot’.

1. Drive Mode (frees up left rocker);

2. Flash Mode (frees up right rocker);

3. Flash Comp. (adjacent to Flash Mode);

4. Focus Mode;

5. Focus Area (adjacent to Focus Mode);

6. Metering Mode (metering area size, adjacent to focus area size).

NOTE: Spot focus can be moved off center, but spot metering is ALWAYS centered. This is why learning to use AEL is worthwhile.

.................................................................

My m3 12 item Fn Button Menu setup continued

Lower 1-6: These are options I keep here, out of the big menu.

1. Image Size 20,10, 5 mp: (EOZ available at 10mp and 5mp)

2. Image Quality (me: x.fine Jpeg, change to RAW + Jpeg, or RAW)

NOTE: RAW + Jpeg defaults to Jpeg Fine Compression.

3. DRO/Auto HDR (Jpeg only)

4. White Balance Typically Auto AWB, but, fluorescent? mixed with incandescent? mixed with daylight? other presets or K specific Kelvin Temperature. Seems hard, but, if I can do it, so can you.

5. Creative Style. I use it to quickly get to B&W, to visualize in B&W while composing and adjusting exposure, shoot. Back to STD for a matching Color shot. This is also where you can change the defaults for Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness for any pre-set style, std, vivid, etc.

6. Picture Effect. I like HC B&W (high contrast), and I like Watercolor. I find, the more color in the scene, the better the Watercolor effect will look.

NOTE: I often reassign this bottom item 6, for something I am learning.

.......................................................

14. Gear. pg 4. Custom Key Settings

a. Control Ring, default Standard

b. C button: Aspect Ratio: I use full sensor 3:2, I like to shoot 1:1 occasionally, many use 16:9 for their monitors and TVs; now one button, no menu of any kind.

c. Center Button: Center Lock-On AF (tracking focus renamed), OR Eye AF. IOW, the ‘other’ focus mode you use.

Tracking Focus: press rear center button, toggle up or down to off or on. That engages Tracking Focus mode, and a small white box appears in the middle of the lcd. You need to assign it to a subject, like a moving child. Aim so the child’s head is in the white box, then press the rear center button a second time. Now the white box is assigned to that subject, and the white box follows the subject for you, like spot focus area, but automatically following it’s assigned subject. AF works as always, half press fixes the focus distance and metering, full press takes the shot, so, quick full shutter press works best here if the rug rat is still moving. If you or subject moves, white box follows subject.

Or, EYE Focus. I should try it. Perhaps someone can write something to insert here.

d. Left Rocker: AEL Toggle (Auto Exposure Lock). It will use the metering area size you have already set.

First: Press left rocker to engage AEL mode. An * appears at the right end of the info line, bottom of lcd. Note: * and left AEL rocker are intuitively adjacent. Second: Take a shot. The exposure of that shot is now locked, until you press left rocker again. This locks exposure, prior to, and separate from, focus, so next half shutter press only sets focus.

Option: one line down is 2nd AEL method. AEL Toggle, preceded by a box with a spot. Perhaps someone can explain this.

e. Right Rocker: AF/MF Ctrl Toggle. This is the secret of using MF for these.

Camera on, in AF-S as I left it (or AF-C). Want MF for a situation, without taking your eye off the EVF: simply press right rocker. It toggles to MF, turn front ring, magnification, with peaking, refine focus for your subject, shoot. Press right rocker, toggles back to AF. Never need main menu or Fn Button menu, presto, presto again.

f. Zoom Function on Ring: Standard (progressive 24-70) or Zoom to pre-set steps: 24, 28, 35, 50, 70. Note, this works in both Auto’s, not in PASM.

g. Movie Button. I change to Movie Mode Only, so if top dial is not in Movie, if I hit the stupid thing, it doesn’t start a movie. IF you like to start a movie anytime in any mode, leave it in default: Always.

h. Wheel Lock: default Unlock. What does Lock do???

.......................................................

15. WiFi Section. You figure it out. Note: In Play mode, pick an image, press the Fn Button, takes you directly to ‘Send to Smartphone’.

16. Applications Section: You figure it out.

17. Play Section: I never use it

................................................

18. Toolkit Section: we started here to Initialize.

a. Page 1, monitor brightness. Change to Sunny Weather. Auto does not work. Makes a big difference outdoors in glare. Manual brightness is very handy to darken the lcd for non-disruptive use in public places. I use -2, you can see enough to frame, and, even if holding tilted lcd up over peoples heads, you can still see to frame, and in MF, you can still see focus magnification and peaking, enough to select the front or third row, wherever Ben, Cooper, Ava, or Daria are, (soon Adalynn) or the singer at a mic, depending on if you have far or near seats of course.

b. Pg 1, Audio Signals: I change to OFF, not to be disruptive.

c. Pg 2, Display Quality: change to High.

d. Pwr Save Start Time. Now that you have learned the menu, change to 5 minutes.

..................................end...........................
 
this got blown back into the middle of page 2 in 1 week, thought I would bounce it for anyone who missed it.
 
Thank you Elliott this is very helpful. Any additional help with jpeg settings? I don't have time for post processing. My jpegs look terrible, my wife and I took some city pictures and her iPhone 7 photos looked better than my pics. I am using the rx100m3. I do adjust the awb accordingly and I set to standard creative style increased sharpness and tried vivid for a few. Just doesn't look great on the computer or the iPad. I will try and upload a few images tomorrow.
 
CPL for Outdoor Use is Recommended.

Many agree, the rx100's over-expose, so they shoot -.3, often cut more -.7, as do I. my m3 over-exposes more than my m1 btw.

You can trust what you see in the evf and lcd (even set to sunny weather), so press the bottom rocker, cut away, shoot.

This often leads to lifting shadows in post. It is amazing how much detail lurks in those shadows. Cutting highlights in post gets into trouble much faster, this avoids that.

Using a CPL outdoors helps avoid over-exposure, improves skies, colors, so that your original shot starts 'brighter', meaning you see/get more detail in the shadows as you shoot, reducing, or eliminating the need to lift shadows in post.

I use Kiwi Filter Adapter on both my m1 and m3.

f468b81187554fd29b2990a3196c45ab.jpg

it adds 4.5mm thickness to the camera. Now ready to use or stack CPL,ND,Haze. Keep a lens cap for your filters in mind.
stack the nd ? what about the built-in nd filter?
f77d04f485bd45fcac47c56c837714d0.jpg

Now when you want to cut glare, see thru glass, see thru water, CPL is ready to go.

Waterfall, desired water speed appearance, just stack your ND in the sandwich.

Elliott
 
Thanks for all the serup suggestions. I have a mk3 and the mk5 will arrive in a few days so this info will be helpful.
 
Thank you, Elliott. This was a ton of work for you. It is very useful tutorial for a brand new RX100V owner!

I have one question for you and the assembled experts here about quickly changing exposure comp. The exposure comp dial is one of the most used controls on both the Sony RX1r II and the Fuji XT2. Plus, in my limited experience with it so far, I find the little RX100V tends to overexpose to my tastes with some frequency.

Having now played with the FUNC button, I see exposure comp as one of the quick menu items, but to access it is a fiddly several step process requiring that one squint at the tiny menus with one's attention completely off the subject to be photographed. First, one must press the little FUNC button; then, looking at the little menu, scroll to the exposure comp tile; then, still squinting at the menu, scroll to the desired plus or minus EV. Then, rather than automatically reverting to 0 EV, the exposure comp setting stays until you go back and actually reverse the entire fiddly process, so it's very easy to have a totally wrong exposure comp setting for subsequent photos.

My question - is there a quick, easy way to access exposure comp on the RX100V?

Thanks in advance!

Greg
 
Thank you very much Elliott. You must have spent a lot of time putting this together and I appreciate it tremendously 😊

Mina

--
"A photograph is a mirror that remembers"
By Blind Tom 1849-1908
 
Last edited:

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top