7DMK2 Leaving shutter button metering/focus along with BBF setup for birds?

[Colocam]

I primarily like to shoot BIF (primarily hawks) but a lot of times I find one perched that sooner rather than later takes off giving me the quick opportunity to take shots of it in flight. Before I go any further let's just say I have the my shutter button set up (as default) for metering/focus in One Shot leave it that way and then setup AF-ON button for back button focus (using detail setup) for AI Servo with a Case setting. Here's my scenario.

While the bird is perched I like to try to get a good eye or at least good head focus if possible. I'm finding that while hand holding it's sometimes hard to get a good focus lock exactly where I want it because I tend to move around a little on the subject. If I'm in AI Servo the focus will continually change as well in response to my movement. I know I could just tap back button focus and lift my finger and AI Servo would stop focus but I like to see focus confirmation of where I have locked. Additionally, focusing low contrast or in lower light focusing can be better with One Shot and it seems to focus faster as well. With that being said, I'm thinking I would like to use One Shot (using the shutter button) for the perched bird, that way when I lock focus, and I know I have gotten a good lock on the head, I can then fire off one or several shots (pressing the shutter button down fully while in continuous HS) and know that my focus is where I want it. Then, as the bird flies off I can hit my BBF (this override shutter button focus) and be in BBF and in AI Servo while tracking the bird.

Just wondering if this configuration seems reasonable and if anyone else has their camera setup this way. I realize with the amount of available customization (great feature of 7DMK2) there are several ways of doing this, I thought this would be relatively simple. Would there be a better way of doing this? Would there be anything bad about setting it up this way?

Thanks...

 

[Neil Schofield]

I get round this in two different ways, firstly I have my BIF settings with af centerpoint and four point expansion in servo on one setting, and for Boas, a single af point in one shot on another, usually with a slower shutter speed, and simply toggle between them with the left hand dial and I think that BBF can be arranged differently in the custom settings as well, but I always use BBF so keep the same setting

The other way around this is to have one of the front two buttons opposite the lens release button, set to toggle between Servo and one shot, won't move it to shutter button to focus though

hopefully this will help, if not I am sure others will chip in

 

[Colocam]

Neil, thanks for responding...when you mention having two settings are you referring to the C1-C3 settings?

 

[Zeee]

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

I use the C1-3 for this because of the drive mode. C1 is for single shooting. I still like to use the shutter for that. C2 and C3 are for moving targets. Only difference is C2 is Av and C3 is manual.

For both C2 and 3 I programmed the AF-on so AI Servo automatically kicks. When shooting in C2 I pick the AF mode and Case number I want to use. The * is programmed so AI Servo, 65 point zone and Case 6 kick. This is for emergency BIF but I find I toggle back and forth between the two depending on the situation.

I just adopted the C1-3 a few weeks ago. The Detail Set function allows you to program the AF-On and * buttons. It is unfortunate that Canon did not add the drive mode to that programming as well. That way I could leave the cam on single shooting and when I pressed a BBF I could have set it up to switch to High Speed Continuous. I had to leave it in High Speed Continuous all the time which was a minor annoyance when shooting stills. I guess I could have just as easily changed it back and forth in the Q screen but I have been hoping Canon would add it in a FW update.

 

[Colocam]

Zee, I think I understand your setup.

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

That's what I've found as well. The BBF (AF-on) takes precedent over the the shutter button even if you leave the shutter button set as normal to the AF/metering/shutter actuation. By leaving the shutter button set as normal and setting up BBF (on the AF-on button) if you are initially setup in One Shot and have your BBF (AF-on) button programmed for AF and metering start (with details set for AF start point, AI Servo case, AI Servo and AI Servo AF area selection) you can either: A. Just use the shutter button to focus/meter and take the single shot. (I am in H continuous drive mode as well so I have to do a quick press to only fire one shot. If I do happen to take a couple extra not a big deal. But yes, it would be nice to be able to set drive modes in details. B. With my bird in the viewfinder, while I'm taking pictures of it in One Shot, if it takes off I can just press BBF (AF-on) and I'm in AI Servo with my other detail presets including Case preset. I can also roll the main dial to change aperture value if need be at any time (or shutter speed if in TV). I could further set up the * button like you did (think I will try that).

What I'm trying to do is to fit as many ways into C1 for shooting a bird on a branch that flies away without having to take my lens holding hand off the lens to change to C2 or C3 for the scenario I've described. I've tried to change the mode dial (C1-C3) but when I do I usually loose the bird in my viewfinder and have to pick it up again and loose some potentially good shots while the bird is still reasonably close. Sometimes I also stop on the the wrong mode all the while loosing time. Maybe I have trouble doing that just because of lack of experience, I'm pretty new to bird photography. I'm trying to find an initial setup that I can build off of as I gain more experience. I will eventually setup modes C-2 and C-3. For now I need to concentrate on and refine just one scenario setup so I don't get confused.

Thanks for taking your time to share your setup and explanations.

 

[wave01]

I have had the *and af on set to all servo and single shot works a treat for me with wildlife. I to wish there was a way program the frame rate too

 

[Zeee]

Zee, I think I understand your setup.

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

That's what I've found as well. The BBF (AF-on) takes precedent over the the shutter button even if you leave the shutter button set as normal to the AF/metering/shutter actuation. By leaving the shutter button set as normal and setting up BBF (on the AF-on button) if you are initially setup in One Shot and have your BBF (AF-on) button programmed for AF and metering start (with details set for AF start point, AI Servo case, AI Servo and AI Servo AF area selection) you can either: A. Just use the shutter button to focus/meter and take the single shot. (I am in H continuous drive mode as well so I have to do a quick press to only fire one shot. If I do happen to take a couple extra not a big deal. But yes, it would be nice to be able to set drive modes in details. B. With my bird in the viewfinder, while I'm taking pictures of it in One Shot, if it takes off I can just press BBF (AF-on) and I'm in AI Servo with my other detail presets including Case preset. I can also roll the main dial to change aperture value if need be at any time (or shutter speed if in TV). I could further set up the * button like you did (think I will try that).

What I'm trying to do is to fit as many ways into C1 for shooting a bird on a branch that flies away without having to take my lens holding hand off the lens to change to C2 or C3 for the scenario I've described. I've tried to change the mode dial (C1-C3) but when I do I usually loose the bird in my viewfinder and have to pick it up again and loose some potentially good shots while the bird is still reasonably close. Sometimes I also stop on the the wrong mode all the while loosing time. Maybe I have trouble doing that just because of lack of experience, I'm pretty new to bird photography. I'm trying to find an initial setup that I can build off of as I gain more experience. I will eventually setup modes C-2 and C-3. For now I need to concentrate on and refine just one scenario setup so I don't get confused.

Thanks for taking your time to share your setup and explanations.

The only way is to leave it on high speed continuous and put up with the extra frames for one shot. Before I started using C1-3 that is what I did. I may go back to that.

 

[Zeee]

Zee, I think I understand your setup.

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

That's what I've found as well. The BBF (AF-on) takes precedent over the the shutter button even if you leave the shutter button set as normal to the AF/metering/shutter actuation. By leaving the shutter button set as normal and setting up BBF (on the AF-on button) if you are initially setup in One Shot and have your BBF (AF-on) button programmed for AF and metering start (with details set for AF start point, AI Servo case, AI Servo and AI Servo AF area selection) you can either: A. Just use the shutter button to focus/meter and take the single shot. (I am in H continuous drive mode as well so I have to do a quick press to only fire one shot. If I do happen to take a couple extra not a big deal. But yes, it would be nice to be able to set drive modes in details. B. With my bird in the viewfinder, while I'm taking pictures of it in One Shot, if it takes off I can just press BBF (AF-on) and I'm in AI Servo with my other detail presets including Case preset. I can also roll the main dial to change aperture value if need be at any time (or shutter speed if in TV). I could further set up the * button like you did (think I will try that).

What I'm trying to do is to fit as many ways into C1 for shooting a bird on a branch that flies away without having to take my lens holding hand off the lens to change to C2 or C3 for the scenario I've described. I've tried to change the mode dial (C1-C3) but when I do I usually loose the bird in my viewfinder and have to pick it up again and loose some potentially good shots while the bird is still reasonably close. Sometimes I also stop on the the wrong mode all the while loosing time. Maybe I have trouble doing that just because of lack of experience, I'm pretty new to bird photography. I'm trying to find an initial setup that I can build off of as I gain more experience. I will eventually setup modes C-2 and C-3. For now I need to concentrate on and refine just one scenario setup so I don't get confused.

Thanks for taking your time to share your setup and explanations.

The only way is to leave it on high speed continuous and put up with the extra frames for one shot. Before I started using C1-3 that is what I did. I may go back to that.

I have been whining about that since I got my 7D2 and now with my 5D4 on every forum I visit hoping Canon may one day do this. It is a critical omission in helping us automate our shooting styles.

 

[Neil Schofield]

Neil, thanks for responding...when you mention having two settings are you referring to the C1-C3 settings?

Yes it is with these settings but a left hand is required so by using either a monopod or tripod for support, you shouldn't loose track or position of the subject

 

[Keekerseeker]

Colocam,,are you taking advantage of the DoF button,,? On all my case settings in al servo,,,and I see a perched bird,,,or one lands close to me,,all I have to do is push the DoF button which has been reassigned to One shot , along with this setting it up to go into auto ISO , single spot fousce , it is a quick way to go from getting birds in flight,,,to a bird in a near-by bush,,,or whatever with total precision and not have to fumble with any other settings. The switch takes a fraction of a second.

 

[Zeee]

Colocam,,are you taking advantage of the DoF button,,? On all my case settings in al servo,,,and I see a perched bird,,,or one lands close to me,,all I have to do is push the DoF button which has been reassigned to One shot , along with this setting it up to go into auto ISO , single spot fousce , it is a quick way to go from getting birds in flight,,,to a bird in a near-by bush,,,or whatever with total precision and not have to fumble with any other settings. The switch takes a fraction of a second.

I tried and could never get used to that. Too awkward for me.

 

[RogerZoul]

These days, I no longer use one-shot. I just stay in AI-Servo all the time and I still can get dead-on shots of birds on the eye. I do practice technique a lot and try to gauge when I'm still and when I'm not (not that hard against a fixed subject in your viewfinder). I find it valuable to always practice good handholding technique and I never assume I'm steady, in fact I assume I'm going to be unsteady and then pay attention to steadying myself (with IS on, of course).

However, when I first got my 7d2, I set mine to use BBF in the standard way. I also programmed the * button to switch to one shot. Then I would just press both the * and the AF On button with my thumb (my thumb is not tiny but it is not super fat either) and the camera would switch from AI-Servo to ONE-shot while I thumb was on both buttons. I'd keep it there long enough for me to rattle off some shots. Of course, this meant I didn't need to move the camera out of position to get to one shot. I got this setting in these very forums soon after the 7D2 was released probably around early November 2014.

 

[Colocam]

I agree, holding technique and steadying oneself takes practice and I'm "slowly" getting better at that. Part of the problem I think, for me, is I get exited when an opportunity presents itself since right now there aren't a ton of birds around close by to where I live. From the advice given here I'll probably try as many approaches as I can one day at a time so I can see what works good for me and as you have done, my approach will evolve as I get better.

Thanks

 

[Colocam]

Keekerseeker, I'll give that a try...my fingers are definitely long enough to comfortably reach it.

Thanks

 

[TheBlackGrouse]

Zee, I think I understand your setup.

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

That's what I've found as well. The BBF (AF-on) takes precedent over the the shutter button even if you leave the shutter button set as normal to the AF/metering/shutter actuation. By leaving the shutter button set as normal and setting up BBF (on the AF-on button) if you are initially setup in One Shot and have your BBF (AF-on) button programmed for AF and metering start (with details set for AF start point, AI Servo case, AI Servo and AI Servo AF area selection) you can either: A. Just use the shutter button to focus/meter and take the single shot. (I am in H continuous drive mode as well so I have to do a quick press to only fire one shot. If I do happen to take a couple extra not a big deal. But yes, it would be nice to be able to set drive modes in details. B. With my bird in the viewfinder, while I'm taking pictures of it in One Shot, if it takes off I can just press BBF (AF-on) and I'm in AI Servo with my other detail presets including Case preset. I can also roll the main dial to change aperture value if need be at any time (or shutter speed if in TV). I could further set up the * button like you did (think I will try that).

Sounds ok.

For me BBF is also for One-Shot. Tried otherwise but kept pushing the back button unintentionally. Besides, it makes no difference for me as I'm using C1-C2-C3.

What I'm trying to do is to fit as many ways into C1 for shooting a bird on a branch that flies away without having to take my lens holding hand off the lens to change to C2 or C3 for the scenario I've described.

Assuming that you shoot handheld because otherwise it's hard to follow birds that take off.

I've tried to change the mode dial (C1-C3) but when I do I usually loose the bird in my viewfinder and have to pick it up again and loose some potentially good shots while the bird is still reasonably close.

This may sound strange to many photographers but it is a known problem. Everything happens fast, your eye must stay at the viewfinder and you have to keep the bird in focus. That can be extremely difficult at shorter distances, especially in busy environments (reed beds, forests etc.)

I solve this by changing to C3 (BIF-settings) before the bird takes off. Almost always there are signs that a bird will start flying. Big advantage, you have the full high-speed power when the bird takes off. That may lead to some interesting images.

Sometimes I also stop on the the wrong mode all the while loosing time. Maybe I have trouble doing that just because of lack of experience, I'm pretty new to bird photography.

This can be solved. C2 for perched birds, C3 for flying birds. Just rotate till the end and you don't have to look.

I'm trying to find an initial setup that I can build off of as I gain more experience. I will eventually setup modes C-2 and C-3. For now I need to concentrate on and refine just one scenario setup so I don't get confused.

You are right. It is very important to pay attention to the settings of the 7DII. Too often I meet photographers who work with the original settings. Most heard: 'Oh, you were really lucky getting this shot'. No, success depends for 99% on the combination of experience, settings, steadiness, tracking abilities.

When I miss it's always my fault. Being focused (no pun intended) is the key. When I'm not concentrated enough things go wrong, and it gets worse per second.

Thanks for taking your time to share your setup and explanations.

We wildlife photographers need to help each other. Out alone in the dark woods we already have enough problems

--
TheBlackGrouse
Active outdoor photographer

 

[Blue II]

I'm thinking I would like to use One Shot (using the shutter button) for the perched bird, that way when I lock focus, and I know I have gotten a good lock on the head, I can then fire off one or several shots (pressing the shutter button down fully while in continuous HS) and know that my focus is where I want it. Then, as the bird flies off I can hit my BBF (this override shutter button focus) and be in BBF and in AI Servo while tracking the bird.

Just wondering if this configuration seems reasonable and if anyone else has their camera setup this way.

I've tried this, and being used to bbf, I found it difficult for me to get used to. However, my Dad sets his 7D2 up this way for shooting birds. Pressing the bbf to get AI Servo to override the shutter's AF One Shot is much, much quicker than changing between the custom setups (C1-C3) and can be done without removing your eye from the viewfinder.

Give it a try and see if you like it.

 

[Colocam]

I'll be getting out next Thursday and I'm going to give it a try. Several others have mentioned their setup and I plan to give them a try as well, but I'm going to try this first. I'll also be trying different modes, some people like Av, others Tv and still others prefer manual and I think each has it's place so I may set up my C1-C3 modes for those three modes and then I'll be trying the various AF settings and case settings to see what works best for me. I know it's going to take quite some time and practice but that's what I like about it, especially if I start seeing improvements.

Thanks for your time.

 

[artistguy]

Zee, I think I understand your setup.

Before I explain my settings I tried both disabling the AF on my shutter and not disabling it and I found no interference using the BBF.

That's what I've found as well. The BBF (AF-on) takes precedent over the the shutter button even if you leave the shutter button set as normal to the AF/metering/shutter actuation. By leaving the shutter button set as normal and setting up BBF (on the AF-on button) if you are initially setup in One Shot and have your BBF (AF-on) button programmed for AF and metering start (with details set for AF start point, AI Servo case, AI Servo and AI Servo AF area selection) you can either: A. Just use the shutter button to focus/meter and take the single shot. (I am in H continuous drive mode as well so I have to do a quick press to only fire one shot. If I do happen to take a couple extra not a big deal. But yes, it would be nice to be able to set drive modes in details. B. With my bird in the viewfinder, while I'm taking pictures of it in One Shot, if it takes off I can just press BBF (AF-on) and I'm in AI Servo with my other detail presets including Case preset. I can also roll the main dial to change aperture value if need be at any time (or shutter speed if in TV). I could further set up the * button like you did (think I will try that).

Sounds ok.

For me BBF is also for One-Shot. Tried otherwise but kept pushing the back button unintentionally. Besides, it makes no difference for me as I'm using C1-C2-C3.

What I'm trying to do is to fit as many ways into C1 for shooting a bird on a branch that flies away without having to take my lens holding hand off the lens to change to C2 or C3 for the scenario I've described.

Assuming that you shoot handheld because otherwise it's hard to follow birds that take off.

I've tried to change the mode dial (C1-C3) but when I do I usually loose the bird in my viewfinder and have to pick it up again and loose some potentially good shots while the bird is still reasonably close.

This may sound strange to many photographers but it is a known problem. Everything happens fast, your eye must stay at the viewfinder and you have to keep the bird in focus. That can be extremely difficult at shorter distances, especially in busy environments (reed beds, forests etc.)

I solve this by changing to C3 (BIF-settings) before the bird takes off. Almost always there are signs that a bird will start flying. Big advantage, you have the full high-speed power when the bird takes off. That may lead to some interesting images.

Sometimes I also stop on the the wrong mode all the while loosing time. Maybe I have trouble doing that just because of lack of experience, I'm pretty new to bird photography.

This can be solved. C2 for perched birds, C3 for flying birds. Just rotate till the end and you don't have to look.

I'm trying to find an initial setup that I can build off of as I gain more experience. I will eventually setup modes C-2 and C-3. For now I need to concentrate on and refine just one scenario setup so I don't get confused.

You are right. It is very important to pay attention to the settings of the 7DII. Too often I meet photographers who work with the original settings. Most heard: 'Oh, you were really lucky getting this shot'. No, success depends for 99% on the combination of experience, settings, steadiness, tracking abilities.

When I miss it's always my fault. Being focused (no pun intended) is the key. When I'm not concentrated enough things go wrong, and it gets worse per second.

Thanks for taking your time to share your setup and explanations.

We wildlife photographers need to help each other. Out alone in the dark woods we already have enough problems

 

[Ember42]

I have removed AF from the shutter and have several buttons setup with different scenarios. On AF on I have it set for static subjects (I use AI-servo, but you could use one-shot here), and then the * set to a fast shutter speed, auto iso, small zone or 8 pt expansion, +1 EC (usually against bright sky) and BIF AF custom settings. I also set the DoF button to use precision single focus point. (I use C1-3 to change the parameters of each of these depending on the light level, so I don't need to change the mode dial very often). This way I only have to press a different button to effectively switch from static subjects to flying. I also have the narrow AF point available if there is more stuff to distract AF.

 

[Colocam]

I have removed AF from the shutter and have several buttons setup with different scenarios. On AF on I have it set for static subjects (I use AI-servo, but you could use one-shot here), and then the * set to a fast shutter speed, auto iso, small zone or 8 pt .

Thanks for the post. Maybe I'm missing something but how do you set or assign shutter speed to the * button?