5D Raw files - How to get images to look as good as jpg in PhotoShop

[davdav99]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

Using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the images come out "flat" and the colour rendition is poor when looking at skin tones and reds. It just doesn't pop like jpg's which come out of the camera.

How can I use Canon RAW files to get a similar result to the jpg's that come out of the camera?

Note that I use Photoshop mainly, and occasionally Lightroom, but I am reluctant to use my Canon RAW files as I get better results from the jpgs. HELP! 

 

[BlueRay2]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

Using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the images come out "flat" and the colour rendition is poor when looking at skin tones and reds. It just doesn't pop like jpg's which come out of the camera.

How can I use Canon RAW files to get a similar result to the jpg's that come out of the camera?

Note that I use Photoshop mainly, and occasionally Lightroom, but I am reluctant to use my Canon RAW files as I get better results from the jpgs. HELP! 

use canon DPP converter! it is very simple and powerful, you'll like it after a while ;-)

 

[Vladimir Yanushkevich]

DPP is also slow and unflexible in controls (vs Adobe)$ I would suggest to start from PS-like ColorProfiles in ACR "Camera Calibration" Tab.
IF you use Standard in camera - choose "Camera Standard" or any other tha works in-camera for you. Also add Clarity/Vibrance/Sat at the bottom of the Main Tab to your taste.
Try this with couple of "regular" images to come to an optimal set of parameters then use "Save New Camera Defaults" (top-right falling menu in Main Tab). These preset will be used any time you open 5d3 RAW in ACR.

 

[George Zip]

I might be missing your meaning, but raw files are flat looking as they are not processed at all whereas a jpg is the result of in camera processing.

If I am reading your question right, you have imported a raw and compared it to a JPEG and wondering why they look so different? If that's the case, then you need to check out some post processing tutorials on YouTube and so on.

So you need to fiddle around in Lightroom, adjust the sharpness, noise reduction. Clarity, etc etc to achieve that processed look.

What you can do them is save those settings as a preset and apply them on import. Or you can download some presets from the net, or possibly ask in these forums if anyone has a good preset that emulates the JPG engine in the camera.

I am referring to Lightroom because it is the only one I have any idea on how to use.

I hope I am not misreading your question, and suggesting things you already know.

Good luck

 

[brightcolours]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

Using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the images come out "flat" and the colour rendition is poor when looking at skin tones and reds. It just doesn't pop like jpg's which come out of the camera.

How can I use Canon RAW files to get a similar result to the jpg's that come out of the camera?

Note that I use Photoshop mainly, and occasionally Lightroom, but I am reluctant to use my Canon RAW files as I get better results from the jpgs. HELP! 

use canon DPP converter! it is very simple and powerful, you'll like it after a while ;-)

Indeed, use DPP 4 for the conversion. Then let DPP send the 16bit TIFF to Photoshop. No more hassle with Adobe's crappy conversions.

 

[Phil214757]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

Using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the images come out "flat" and the colour rendition is poor when looking at skin tones and reds. It just doesn't pop like jpg's which come out of the camera.

How can I use Canon RAW files to get a similar result to the jpg's that come out of the camera?

Note that I use Photoshop mainly, and occasionally Lightroom, but I am reluctant to use my Canon RAW files as I get better results from the jpgs. HELP! 

Raw files come across reasonably flat because that preserves the maximum about of useful image data. JPEGs can be flat also but normally have image profiles applied that boost saturation so the can "Look" better but they contain far less useful image data.

IMHO the proper way to start editing RAW file is in Lightroom. Besides the automated presets you can create your own presets or develop one image and apply the correction from the one to the rest of the shoot as a starting point.





Of course JPEGs fall apart when being edited due to the limited pallet depth. Converting to 16 bit and adding noise can redistribute the pallet making them more editable but nothing beats starting with RAW files.



--
Phil Agur
“Imagination is more important than knowledge..." -- Albert Einstein

 

[davdav99]

Thanks. I'll give it a go. Do you do this, and if so, what specific settings do you have set to get similar results to the in-camera processed jpg's?

 

[davdav99]

I might be missing your meaning, but raw files are flat looking as they are not processed at all whereas a jpg is the result of in camera processing.

If I am reading your question right, you have imported a raw and compared it to a JPEG and wondering why they look so different?

Not exactly. I am familiar that RAW need to be processed. My question is how can I configure the settings to get the RAW files (say though Lightroom or Photoshop) to output to jpgs looks as good or similar to the Canon in-camera jpg processing?

Do you have a Canon 5D and what settings do you use to your RAW files as a standard configuration, and then do they look similar to the in-camera processed jpg's?

 

[davdav99]

Try this with couple of "regular" images to come to an optimal set of parameters then use "Save New Camera Defaults" (top-right falling menu in Main Tab). These preset will be used any time you open 5d3 RAW in ACR.

Thanks. I'll give it a go. Do you do this, and if so, what specific settings do you have set to get similar results to the in-camera processed jpg's?

 

[davdav99]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

Using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the images come out "flat" and the colour rendition is poor when looking at skin tones and reds. It just doesn't pop like jpg's which come out of the camera.

How can I use Canon RAW files to get a similar result to the jpg's that come out of the camera?

Note that I use Photoshop mainly, and occasionally Lightroom, but I am reluctant to use my Canon RAW files as I get better results from the jpgs. HELP! 

Raw files come across reasonably flat because that preserves the maximum about of useful image data. JPEGs can be flat also but normally have image profiles applied that boost saturation so the can "Look" better but they contain far less useful image data.

IMHO the proper way to start editing RAW file is in Lightroom. Besides the automated presets you can create your own presets or develop one image and apply the correction from the one to the rest of the shoot as a starting point.



Of course JPEGs fall apart when being edited due to the limited pallet depth. Converting to 16 bit and adding noise can redistribute the pallet making them more editable but nothing beats starting with RAW files.

--
Phil Agur
“Imagination is more important than knowledge..." -- Albert Einstein

Assuming that you use Canon 5d Raw files, what presets to you have for Lightroom as a first step? By the way, I'm not interested in processing my jpg's, but my frustration is that I cannot get the RAW to look as good at the in-camera processed jpg's. You help, and other's help, in suggested presets would be appreciated.

 

[boels069]

Indeed, use DPP 4 for the conversion. Then let DPP send the 16bit TIFF to Photoshop.

Or to Lightroom.

 

[George Zip]

I might be missing your meaning, but raw files are flat looking as they are not processed at all whereas a jpg is the result of in camera processing.

If I am reading your question right, you have imported a raw and compared it to a JPEG and wondering why they look so different?

Not exactly. I am familiar that RAW need to be processed. My question is how can I configure the settings to get the RAW files (say though Lightroom or Photoshop) to output to jpgs looks as good or similar to the Canon in-camera jpg processing?

Do you have a Canon 5D and what settings do you use to your RAW files as a standard configuration, and then do they look similar to the in-camera processed jpg's?

Ahhhh ok.

To be honest I use no particular settings I just adjust until I get what I like. If there is a shed load of photos I then use the one I adjusted and apply it to the rest.

I would actually be interested if anyone has a preset that emulates in camera Jpg as well. It would be useful for bulk processing snapshots

 

[José B]

Indeed, use DPP 4 for the conversion. Then let DPP send the 16bit TIFF to Photoshop. No more hassle with Adobe's crappy conversions.

 

[maiaibing]

With my Canon 5D mark III RAW files, I can never seem to get the images (even unmodified) to look as good as the jpg that come straight out of the camera.

For that saturated JPG-look what you want to do is to immediately set the white and black points to their respective max (just before clipping).

I have a LightRoom preset to do this for me for 90% of my pictures. I have not found a way to do this 100% automatic (yet).

This should help a lot. Afterwards you can start playing with your blacks and clipping them just a little extra making your saturation go up somewhat more.

I have a little clipping in most of my pictures. No magazine has complained yet!

Good luck!

 

[Hokie Jack]

I would actually be interested if anyone has a preset that emulates in camera Jpg as well. It would be useful for bulk processing snapshots

+4 on DPP4. In-camera jpeg is a result of your in-camera settings, and DPP can be configured to apply those in-camera settings to the raw image. (I believe this is the default).

 

[Peter Kwok]

The purpose of shooting in raw is to adjust individual photos (or a batch of photos) depending on the content of the photos to your own taste. There is no single "Easy" button, other than shooting jpeg and let your camera do it.

I use Lightroom. I guess PS starts the same way with default settings at zeros that gives you a neutral tone. If you want it to pop, then crank up clarity. contrast or vibrancy. If the skin tone is too red, you can go into the color control to either reduce the red saturation, or move the tone of red or orange to the right. Play with it and see what you like. The learning curve is steep. A book or on-line tutorial will explain various features. But there is nothing like hands-on experience.

 

[davdav99]

The purpose of shooting in raw is to adjust individual photos (or a batch of photos) depending on the content of the photos to your own taste. There is no single "Easy" button, other than shooting jpeg and let your camera do it.

I use Lightroom. I guess PS starts the same way with default settings at zeros that gives you a neutral tone. If you want it to pop, then crank up clarity. contrast or vibrancy. If the skin tone is too red, you can go into the color control to either reduce the red saturation, or move the tone of red or orange to the right. Play with it and see what you like. The learning curve is steep. A book or on-line tutorial will explain various features. But there is nothing like hands-on experience.

 

[ShortestPath]

There really is no need to have a "collaboration" among Adobe and Canon to get you the out-of-camera JPG look. As several posters already mentioned, you just need to load the RAW in DPP and the exact same picture setting as the camera will be applied to the image, which means that your starting point will be the look you want. You can then do further edits in DPP or export to PS/LR if you prefer.

Thanks Peter, it's a shame that photoshop, lightroom and Canon have not got together to mimic the in-camera jpg conversions to make it easy, because those configurations are fantastic and I never have to worry about getting skin tones right. All the effort you suggest may work for you, but for the majority of us we would struggle to get it on par with the jpg files that come out of the camera.

Anyone else with suggestions? I would love to past on the Adobe forums but I can not find out how to do it.

 

[poppyjk]

When shooting in RAW format, most camera settings like White Balance, Sharpness, Saturation, Contrast, Lens Corrections, AutoLightingOptimizer, Noise Reduction, Picture Styles, and specific camera model Color Profiles do not matter. Unless you use Canon-provided Digital Photo Professional, all of those custom settings are mostly discarded by third party applications, including Lightroom and Photoshop.

In Lightroom the Adobe Standard color profile can be improved upon by selecting Camera Standard(or Landscape, Portrait, etc.) A better color profile solution is to purchase camera model specific Canon profiles from someone like http://www.colorfidelity.com/canon.htm that several DPR members recommend.

But color profiles are only one variable. You still have to adjust the other 6-8 variables that will give you equivalency to an in camera jpg. If you have tried to Google for comprehensive presets for your camera in Lightroom, you likely could not find anything.

As others have mentioned, you will just have to put in the time to adjust all the variables to get close to your view of Canon jpg and save them in a preset to be your default profile when opening raw files in Lightroom. You only need to get close, since it sounds like you adjust your jpg's anyhow.

Good luck. The higher your standards, the harder the work.