Further on this saga.
The parts manual I posted above identifies the screws size and length.
It would pay to have a vernier so that you can check their length
if needs be and they can be kept more safely in one container.
at the abovementioned site
http://www.molon.de/5050/modedial/
The hotshoe spring comes out quite easily. Both the front and back
edges have a turned-down edge. The front can easily be lifted by
putting a blunt needle under the spring at the point where the is a
relief for the locking pin. The spring may then be slid back,
helped by a knife blade. The back edge then bears aganst a mould on
the body but by then the front edge is no longer a problem. The
same tool can be used to lift the back edge over the obstruction,
et voila, out comes the spring.
Remove the camera strap.
In the picture series:
Screws 1 and two are not the same. Screw 1 is shorter and fatter.
There are four screws under the doors and plug covers, two at each
end, all the same, with course threads.
Note that trhe red pointer for the mode dial is in the front
section of the body. It appears that this is a good place to ease
the back off.
There isn't much holding the card cover in place. It just fell on
the floor and the pin falls out too.
The screw under the strap lug is not a player. The actual lug above
it comes off with the back.
The panel with the USB socket etc stays on the front section.
The battery door is not connected to the back cover.
While I stick with Molon's comment about the front screws of the
hotshoe staying inplace, it seems that loosening them a little
helps the process a lot.
Once the back is been eased of about 3mm it comes away quite easily.
The first item to give you a hard time ans sweaty palms, is a
ribbon cable that connects to the front section by the battery door
hinge. Take a deep breath, slide the screwdiver shaft under it,
grip the ribbon with your thumb, and ease it out. The ribbon is in
full view in picture 10 but the circuit board and buttons are
different. I could not swing the back over like in the picture,
without unplugging the ribbon.
The other cables are different oo but they can remain in place.
The delete button is not a player but the circuit board is fouled
by the mount for the screen. It is released by undoing three screws
in a row under the screen and one inside right at the top. No need
to go any further, You now have access to the vital screw.
I'm not going any further at the moment. I know I can get the dial
out if I get a new one. Now that I have good access all round the
dial I'm going to give it a good squirt with Electrolube and see if
it helps.
