Experiment with 5 mpix in APS-C mode on full frame

gardenersassistant

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With my current setup I can only get down to 4.5mm scene width. For smaller scenes I have to crop. Because I use very small apertures there is a lot of softening from diffraction and so the images don't contain enough information to allow for much cropping.

One way round this would be to open up the aperture when I know I am going to crop. This would reduce the diffraction softening and give greater scope for cropping. However this approach presents two difficulties. One is that getting the centre of focus placed where I want it is more difficult with the subject small on the screen. The other is that it is difficult to work out on the spur of the moment how much to open up the aperture suitable for the amount of cropping that will be done and then make the aperture adjustment and an associated ISO adjustment. With a small/moving subject this is just too slow to be workable.

An alternative would be to use a camera with a smaller sensor, set up to use the appropriate aperture for that sensor size. Even for the smaller scenes the subject would be at its normal size on the screen to make focusing easier (as in, no harder than usual). And the aperture would be permanently set for that sensor size, so I wouldn't have to spend time on altering it (and losing some shots because of the time needed for the alterations, and other shots lost by getting the spur of the moment calculations wrong).

I considered using the same lens arrangement with a smaller sensor camera - I have tried this in the past with both APS-C and MFT and it worked, but with my particular APS-C and MFT cameras it didn't work very well because of practical issues. A couple of days ago I was thinking about one of the newer Canon APS-C cameras which have focus peaking (my 70D doesn't) when I remembered that I could use my Sony full frame cameras in APS-C mode (with a 1.5 crop factor similar to the Canon 1.6X crop factor).

I am currently using a Sony A7sii for invertebrate macros. This has only 12 mpix on the sensor but because my images have so little information in them having more pixels doesn't help (I know, I have tried, with the A7ii and A7rii. All I get is larger file sizes to deal with, with no improvement in image quality, and possibly not quite as effective focus peaking). Using the A7sii in APS-C mode would mean using only 5 mpix. However, my 1300 pixel high images only have around 2.5 mpix, so in fact 5 mpix of sensor pixels might be enough. So I decided to try it.

I was thinking of having two 'memory' setups I could switch between, one using the full sensor, set up to use the f/45 that I have been using for a while now, and one set up to use APS-C, with a larger aperture. Unfortunately one of the few settings the A7sii won't let you incorporate into a memory setup is FF/APS-C, so I would have to do that through the menus, but because the menus come up with the last setting you were on that would be fairly fast to do. This would be combined with using one click of the top dial to move to a memory setup with the appropriate aperture and ISO.

The question then arises of what would be the appropriate aperture with APS-C to match the f/45 I use with the whole sensor. The calculations are a bit complicated, and I'm not confident I have them completely right anyway, but they suggested f/32 might be about right. I did a mini session in the church grounds opposite with f/32, came back and batch processed the images and had a quick look, and then went back for another mini session, this time using f/36. The first five of the images below are from the first, f/32, session and the last three are from the second, f/36, session.

The way I envisage using this approach would be to switch to APS-C mode only for the smallest scenes, but for testing purposes I decided to leave the camera in APS-C mode for all of the two mini sessions irrespective of scene size just to see how it performed. In terms of handling, it worked well. The subjects were an appropriate size on the screen and focus peaking worked just as well (and for some scenes just as poorly) as when using FF mode. So, operationally it was fine; the issue then is image quality.

As usual, the raw files were processed in DXO PhotoLab, then Lightroom, then Topaz DeNoise AI. The first four and the last one also used Topaz Sharpen AI (with extremely mild settings). Using Sharpen AI is unusual for me, and his might be a sign that the APS-C setup is suboptimal in terms of image quality. However, it is too small a sample to be sure about that, and also there were not many subjects and the ones I did find were mostly awkward to get at and/or moving around too fast for comfort, both of which increase the variability of focus plane placement. However, even if there is a small penalty in terms of image quality (and there might not be), for the smallest scenes that might be a price worth paying in order to have a better chance of actually capturing the shot in the first place. I need to experiment more with this.

One thing this exercise underlines for me is that, depending on what you doing, pixel count and sensor size may come very low down on the list of key factors (to the extent of being more or less irrelevant in some cases). This is in line with the conclusions I came to when comparing my images of invertebrates from small sensor bridge cameras, MFT and APS-C cameras, where I found no discernible difference in image quality as between the sensor sizes. (Interestingly though, it was different with close-ups of flowers and other botanical subjects, for which the small sensor bridge cameras did seem to produce inferior results. Incidentally, I think similar considerations apply to lens sharpness, although that was not an issue in this exercise.)

The rest of the images from the two mini sessions are in this album at Flickr.

#1

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#2

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#3

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#4

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#5

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#6

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#7

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#8

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--
Nick
Flickr image collections http://www.flickr.com/photos/gardenersassistant/collections/
Blog
Summary of photo activity since 2007 https://fliesandflowers.blogspot.com/2019/01/when-i-retired-in-2006-i-had-it-in-mind.html
 
Hi Nick,

I have two Sony FF cameras. To the best of my knowledge, APS-C mode simply crops in the camera. So I leave my cameras in FF mode and crop during edit. I should add that APS-C mode magnifies the image in the viewfinder. But that doesn't seem important to me.

I'm interested in pixels per mm.

My 50mp A1 has 240 pixels per mm and my 61mp A7RIV has 266. My A6400 APS-C has 256 pixels per mm. MFT is about 300 pixels per mm. "One inch" sensors are in the 400's and 1/2.3" sensors in the 700's.

I think that the best lenses limit around 300 pixels per mm and that is probably the best macro format. I say that because I think it gives the most "usable" pixels for any given situation of lens focal length and field of view. But MFT only offers 13% more pixels per mm than my A7IV and my experiments have shown that that's not very significant and not enough to justify a whole new system.

More info here:


Alan
 
Hi Nick,

I have two Sony FF cameras. To the best of my knowledge, APS-C mode simply crops in the camera. So I leave my cameras in FF mode and crop during edit. I should add that APS-C mode magnifies the image in the viewfinder. But that doesn't seem important to me.
Our mileage varies. As I described in the text of the OP, for what I do there can be advantages for focusing of having the crop done in-camera, at least for small scenes. And another thing I didn't mention is that APS-C mode increases the working distance for a scene of a given size. This could be beneficial for me for scenes in the upper two thirds or so of the magnification range I use, decreasing the likelihood of disturbing a subject. It would be a disadvantage at the lower end of the magnification range, increasing the issues associated with the drop-off of flash illumination as working distance increases. Being able to switch between FF and APS-C mode could therefore be advantageous.
I'm interested in pixels per mm.
My 50mp A1 has 240 pixels per mm and my 61mp A7RIV has 266. My A6400 APS-C has 256 pixels per mm. MFT is about 300 pixels per mm. "One inch" sensors are in the 400's and 1/2.3" sensors in the 700's.

I think that the best lenses limit around 300 pixels per mm and that is probably the best macro format.
Here too, we each have our own approach to this sort of thing. For me "the best macro format" is the one that best fits my working methods and aesthetic goals, and as described in the OP that has little to do with issues such as sensor size, number of pixels on the sensor or for that matter pixels per mm, which is something I have never found the need to consider.
I say that because I think it gives the most "usable" pixels for any given situation of lens focal length and field of view. But MFT only offers 13% more pixels per mm than my A7IV and my experiments have shown that that's not very significant and not enough to justify a whole new system.

More info here:

https://petapixel.com/2020/12/07/telephoto-reach-with-various-digital-cameras/

Alan
 
AeroPhotographer is right. For the same camera, with the same sensor and the same lens it is irrelevant in terms of image quality whether the cropping is done during the shooting, or afterwards. If the crop is done later it offers more advantages in terms of framing the subject.

You can use the grid to assess the size of the subject after a crop.
Resolution and aperture issues are easily solved by a few tests on a static subject full of details.
.............................
I have similar problems with 3D photography for very small subjects in a single frame (half the frame for one eye and the other half for the other eye). There is no solution on the market with which I can get paired frames smaller than ~17mm width/eye width and at reasonable image quality (so ~2,1x in FF as reference). So I need to build a custom device.😀
 
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Dear Nick,

3D Gunner and I think that APS-C mode simply crops in the camera. You think it's not that simple. So what do you think is happening in the camera, when in APS-C mode, in addition to or instead of cropping?

Best,

Alan
 
AeroPhotographer is right. For the same camera, with the same sensor and the same lens it is irrelevant in terms of image quality whether the cropping is done during the shooting, or afterwards.
Absolutely. The difference for me is in the operational aspects of capturing the image.
If the crop is done later it offers more advantages in terms of framing the subject.
Correct. That is one of the operational factors that needs to be taken into account. I didn't mention it because I've been accused in the past of writing things that are much too long and I omitted some factors for the sake of (relative) brevity.
You can use the grid to assess the size of the subject after a crop.
Yes, I did that when testing "crop for DOF" with the A7rii.
Resolution and aperture issues are easily solved by a few tests on a static subject full of details.
I think it is more complicated than that. For example there are some very low detail scenes (I have a particular water droplet image in mind) for which I was able to use f/90 and get a result I liked. Usually I stick to around f/45. Magnification plays into it too as this changes effective apertures. For example the f/90 image I'm thinking of used a magnification of somewhere between 6X and 8X and had an effective f-number of something over f/200. At 1X magnification the effective aperture would have been more like f/57. (These numbers may look wrong, but the magnifications I'm quoting here refer to magnification taking account of a pair of 2X teleconverters. The effective f-number then needs to take account only of the lens magnification, which for 1X overall magnification is 0.25, and for 8X is 2.)

The choice of an appropriate aperture in the field is therefore doubly context dependent, depending on the characteristics of the scene and the magnification.
.............................
I have similar problems with 3D photography for very small subjects in a single frame (half the frame for one eye and the other half for the other eye). There is no solution on the market with which I can get paired frames smaller than ~17mm width/eye width and at reasonable image quality (so ~2,1x in FF as reference). So I need to build a custom device.😀
 
Dear Nick,

3D Gunner and I think that APS-C mode simply crops in the camera.
I agree.
You think it's not that simple.
I think there are operational aspects to take into account, such as, when in full frame mode, how easy or difficult I find it to get the focus plane where I want it, and what f-number to set depending on how much I am going to crop the image, which I don't know at capture time.
So what do you think is happening in the camera, when in APS-C mode, in addition to or instead of cropping?
Nothing.
Best,

Alan
 
Excellent and most impressive results, Nick. Thanks very much for sharing not only the results, but again the details of your technique.

I think the key to your success is a sense for experimentation and your good and solid lighting setup. I do have a penchant for the former, but I'm really lacking skills in the latter department. Have to work on this for sure. You're shots inspire me to do that!

Phil
 
Excellent and most impressive results, Nick. Thanks very much for sharing not only the results, but again the details of your technique.
Thanks Phil.
I think the key to your success is a sense for experimentation and your good and solid lighting setup.
Two key factors for me are lighting and post processing, and I experiment a lot with both of them. I think my lighting may not be as good as you imagine, because I sometimes use post processing to cover up highlight issues, and also on a wider front to balance (or unbalance) the brightness across the image as a whole and shape the ? tonality. As you may have seen me write before, I think of what I post as images based on photographs rather than as photographs; they are constructs not captures.

Because of the very low information content in my invertebrate images, hardware issues relate almost exclusively to operational matters/practicality in the capture phase and hardly at all to issues such as lens sharpness, pixel count, sensor size etc and the implications for captured image quality; that is always very low for my invertebrate images.

Things are a bit, but overall not hugely, different for my botanical imaging. There too light (in this case natural light) and (to a rather lesser extent) post processing are key factors, and hardware issues centre on operational matters. In fact in this case operational issues almost entirely determine my choice of hardware, particularly the camera, both the brand and model.
I do have a penchant for the former, but I'm really lacking skills in the latter department. Have to work on this for sure. You're shots inspire me to do that!
Good. If you have the mind for it, I think experimentation can add a whole new layer to the enjoyment of photography.
 
Not too long ago I got over my aversion to cropping because I realized that a strict "no cropping policy" was hurting my photography for several reasons related to shooting single frames and active subjects:

Due to my technique of grabbing onto the critter's perch with my non camera hand, and then resting the lens on that same hand to help keep the scene steady, once I get into position I cannot back out to change the magnification. If I do either the subject will notice and bolt, or simply move so that the composition that was in my head is no longer possible.

Increasing the magnification to get tighter subject framing brings with it a drop in depth of field. Sometimes I just do not have enough of the scene in focus for a composition to really work well.

One of the things that I did not know, until a few months ago, that Photoshop Elements 2022 can up-sample an image if the original aspect ratio is maintained during cropping. So I have the same number of MP before and after a crop.



24MP image even though I  cropped the original 24MP in half.

24MP image even though I cropped the original 24MP in half.



--
Also known as Dalantech
My New Book: https://www.blurb.com/b/11015692-extreme-macro-the-art-of-patience-volume-ii
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
 
One of the things that I did not know, until a few months ago, that Photoshop Elements 2022 can up-sample an image if the original aspect ratio is maintained during cropping. So I have the same number of MP before and after a crop.

24MP image even though I cropped the original 24MP in half.

24MP image even though I cropped the original 24MP in half.
What's the point? You gain nothing related to quality.
You can crop at any size then re-scale at any megapixels count (to 24 MP, by example).
 
One of the things that I did not know, until a few months ago, that Photoshop Elements 2022 can up-sample an image if the original aspect ratio is maintained during cropping. So I have the same number of MP before and after a crop.

24MP image even though I cropped the original 24MP in half.

24MP image even though I cropped the original 24MP in half.
What's the point? You gain nothing related to quality.
You can crop at any size then re-scale at any megapixels count (to 24 MP, by example).
Helps if you want to print a photo above 4"x6", or save it to a device as wallpaper that has a high resolution. I think most of you only post to forums or Instagram, your work is not getting published or purchased for prints, so your view point about MP count is different than mine.

--
Also known as Dalantech
My New Book: https://www.blurb.com/b/11015692-extreme-macro-the-art-of-patience-volume-ii
My Blog: http://www.extrememacro.com
My gallery: http://www.johnkimbler.com
Macro Tutorials: http://dalantech.deviantart.com/gallery/4122501/Tutorials
 
Helps if you want to print a photo above 4"x6", or save it to a device as wallpaper that has a high resolution. I think most of you only post to forums or Instagram, your work is not getting published or purchased for prints, so your view point about MP count is different than mine.
A simple resize/"upscale" does not add any information or value to the image, it's just a waste of storage space. Can be done anytime in DTP before print-ready files.

If it were otherwise, you could extract any object from a photo by cropping, then resize the image up to any level and no one would need dedicated equipment to photograph small objects.🙂
 
Helps if you want to print a photo above 4"x6", or save it to a device as wallpaper that has a high resolution. I think most of you only post to forums or Instagram, your work is not getting published or purchased for prints, so your view point about MP count is different than mine.
A simple resize/"upscale" does not add any information or value to the image, it's just a waste of storage space. Can be done anytime in DTP before print-ready files.

If it were otherwise, you could extract any object from a photo by cropping, then resize the image up to any level and no one would need dedicated equipment to photograph small objects.🙂
I never said anything about adding detail. The goal is to end up with a print that does not look pixelated like the genitalia in a Japanese porno... :D
 

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