I tried FV for a few months. If you want to make quick changes you first have to scroll to the one you want. Then I switched to M. Much better.
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Av or Tv
- Thread starter LetBeLight
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And this is a fatal flaw, as 1/f is an overkill for static subjects. I want to have specific aperture and reasonable shutter speed and ISO – and that's what Av does (I have shutter speed limit set to 4/f, aka. AUTO+2). Fv sets unnecessarily fast shutter speed and maximum ISO I configured.
In both cases - manual for aperture and shutter speed and using auto iso to get correct exposure works much better.
If you use TV mode for sports or wildlife without auto iso, you will underexpose if the light is dark and your lens cannot open up wider - which is particularly an issue with the RF 100-400 at f/8 400mm.
If you use auto iso you can:
- Set the aperture at the widest aperture (or stopped down occasionally for DoF)
- Set the shutter speed at the minimum you need to freeze motion - adjusting shot by shot as necessary.
- The camera then does the ISO, and if too high you can decide if you want to lower the shutter speed.
- Exposure compensation still remains available in modern cameras.
R2D2
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A good question to ask.
Optimal autofocus performance does in fact depend on maintaining optimal exposure. Cameras use contrast for focusing, and perform best if they have the best "picture" to work with. If the image is seriously underexposed (or blasted with overexposure), then you can start to compromise autofocus. The amplification that an increase in ISO provides does help of course, but there are limits.
So the real question comes down to which exposure mode suits you best. Myself, I do best shooting everything in Full Manual Mode. My subjects require a particular aperture, and my situations require a particular shutter speed. I set my ISO to avoid clipping the highlights (once gone, they are never coming back).
Keep in mind that increasing ISO does not increase exposure (it only amplifies the photons that the aperture and shutter speed have already collected). Ironically, when in any of the auto exposure modes (incl Av and Tv), lowering the ISO will serve to increase the exposure!
Save for "dual gain," but that's another subject entirely ;-) .
R2
But, since most obtain focus with the aperture wide open, your end exposure doesn’t really matter. It’s going to open to expose, and step down to capture. Exposure time isn’t relevant. It’s going to focus as fast as it can based on aperture only. A planned 20 second exposure has no bearing on this.
Simple Coffee
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I'm in Fv as a Super Tv, as you call it, 99% of the time when using it. I tend to use it instead of Tv so I have the option of changing aperture if I want, but can quickly set aperture and iso to auto with the trash can if desired. I RARELY use Fv with auto shutter, so I guess that explains why I don't run into the shutter limiter issue. Usually, I switch to Av for that, and then back to Fv, so that I don't have to re-scroll my shutter speed.
Fv is definitely more fun on an R7 with it's scroll wheel being in the right location. After falling in love with the mode on an R7, I use it most of the time on the R6 II, even though the dials and wheels aren't as well placed.
Simple Coffee
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I need to get more bold like that! I think since I'm usually using the RF 100-400, Fv's auto aperture doesn't have much effect because there's not much room for it to do any changes, I find it keeps it at f/8 and f/9 most of the time. The only real thing that keeps me from M instead of Fv is being able to kick it back to auto ISO with a single button. If there's a way to do that in M, I'd probably use it more.
That is likely somewhere in the menus depending on the body.
With my R5 I use three dials, one each for Shutter-speed, Aperture, and ISO.
In M mode, I can, instantaneously, adjust any of them, as appropriate to the subject matter, with just a slight movement of my finger or thumb, while the EVF shows me the selected settings for each, along with a view of the scene, and a Histogram, both in real time.
I don't see any advantage to locking down/prioritizing either Shutter-speed, or Aperture, when you have the ability to adjust either of them, along with ISO, so easily, and instantly to your liking?
In M mode, I can, instantaneously, adjust any of them, as appropriate to the subject matter, with just a slight movement of my finger or thumb, while the EVF shows me the selected settings for each, along with a view of the scene, and a Histogram, both in real time.
I don't see any advantage to locking down/prioritizing either Shutter-speed, or Aperture, when you have the ability to adjust either of them, along with ISO, so easily, and instantly to your liking?
My 3 dials for the R6II. Main dial for Shutter Speed, QC2 for Aperture and QC1 for Exposure Compensation. Auto ISO does the rest.
The R7 does not have a QC2 dial but I like to keep both cameras as consistent as I can. I mapped Aperture to the lens ring nut since I don't often adjust aperture with that body it works out OK.
Tony Milton
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I thought I had written a comment, but is seems not to have appeared. If I am correct, the resolution of a lens depends upon the aperture, for example wide open it may be soft particularly at the edges, whereas stopping down beyond a certain aperture will degrade the image owing to diffraction. Therefore, if possible use the aperture, which may differ from lens to lens, which produces the best resolution. If owing to low light, or subjects with fast movement, the shutter speed becomes too slow increase the ISO, with modern cameras one can do his without too much effect on image quality.
While that's all theoretically true, most lenses, but not all are sharpest stopped down a stop or two, and zoom lenses are sharper at differing focal lengths, but getting the best possible overall results may require shooting wide open, stopping down for more DOF, increasing shutter-speed to stop movement, raising or lowering ISO to balance noise VS aperture & shutter-speed, even at the cost of a bit of overall sharpness.
In other words, depending upon the situation, other factors may override max sharpness at capture in obtaining the best desired results, especially with the incredible advancements for noise reduction, sharpening, etc., in current post processing software.
I have not done this is a long time but with my RF lenses I'd look at the MTF charts they would tell the sharpest aperture. Typically it was one stop closed from wide open. An F4 lens was sharpest at 5.6.
dmanthree
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AF is not tied to either Av orTv. It makes no difference which you choose.
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