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Manual lens help.?

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Jeff S

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I have two older manual lens that I have adapted to my D60. One is a Vivitar 300MM F5.6 and the other is a 400MM F6 (forgot the brand). Both of these lens are capable of very sharp pictures but the problem I have is that my eyes must be hit and miss because I only get a sharp shot every once in a while. I wear glasses and find it really difficult to focus these lens. I can't afford modern primes at this time and I know that these lens will work fine if I can devise a better method of focusing them.

Can anyone share with me there method of manual focusing? Would I do better if I bought the Angle finder C. These lens do not produce excessive CA and are in excellent condition. I have gotten some really sharp test pictures with them at times so I would really like to improve my focus with them.

Thanks for any help.

--
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
Jeff,

I'm using manual Zuikos and Super-Takumars that I've owned for years. They're good primes and supplement my newer AF lenses.

But you're right. Focusing is a challenge. Partly due to the somewhat small and dim viewfinder on the 300D and no built-in focusing aids such as microprism or split-image like we used to have on manual 35mm cams. Just a plain viewfinder. I understand the 10D is a little brighter.

I find they work best for me in good light. I move the focus ring quite a bit, going past the pont of focus both ways so I can center in on the sweet spot. When hand-holding these lenses for portraits, I concentrate on the nearest eye. Stopping down as much as possible helps too, by increasing DOF. Do you always focus wide open, then stop down?

Here's a link I maintain on using manual lenses on the 300D:
http://www.pbase.com/gwilburn/lenses

Gene

--
http://www.pbase.com/gwilburn
 
I will try your suggestion. Yes I almost always focus wide open and then stop down if necessary. I only shoot these lens in good light. I really want to make the 300MM work as it is very light and seems pretty bright.

Thanks again for the input.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
I am sure you can with the proper adapter. The adapter does have glass in it and I have heard that it degrades the image. Canon made a few of these for Pro's but others made them also. They are expensive but available. I have a Bower which I have never used and don't need. If you are interested let me know.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
I learned this reading the 300D manual yesterday and I'd bet its true for 10D and other Canon dSLRs.

The AF point indicator still works for manual lenses. Position the active focus point(s) over a high contrast area and half press the shutter. The AF indictator point will flash just like when auto focus is attained.

I tested this with 300D kit lens in lens manual focus mode - you can even half press the shutter while manually adjusting focus and the red light will flash when you hit it.

Of course this focus indicator is only as good as the info it gets, so if the lens or scene is low contrast or wobbly, etc. it may be hard to get it to work.

This is very important for me as even with corrected eye glasses I do not have uniform focus accross my field of vision - I have focus spots. In fact a perfectly in focus image looks a bit more out of focus than one that is off - even with the best corrective lenses I can get.

I do not yet know if this will work with the 2000mm scope I have (its been raining) - perhaps I can get enough contrast of the edge of the moon to focus and then aim at other sky objects. I use a wired remote so I can half press shutter without vibrating scope. Of course I will need to let scope settle after each manual adjustment to focus, then half press with indicator on edge of moon and see if the camera signals in focus and then retry if not. I sure hope this works as I can not focus on even a half crecent moon with my eyes thru the 300D viewfinder.

Al
Gene Wilburn said:
Jeff,

I'm using manual Zuikos and Super-Takumars that I've owned for
years. They're good primes and supplement my newer AF lenses.

But you're right. Focusing is a challenge. Partly due to the
somewhat small and dim viewfinder on the 300D and no built-in
focusing aids such as microprism or split-image like we used to
have on manual 35mm cams. Just a plain viewfinder. I understand the
10D is a little brighter.

I find they work best for me in good light. I move the focus ring
quite a bit, going past the pont of focus both ways so I can center
in on the sweet spot. When hand-holding these lenses for portraits,
I concentrate on the nearest eye. Stopping down as much as possible
helps too, by increasing DOF. Do you always focus wide open, then
stop down?

Here's a link I maintain on using manual lenses on the 300D:
http://www.pbase.com/gwilburn/lenses

Gene

--
http://www.pbase.com/gwilburn
Click to expand...
 
It is just to tedious to do by hand. You sound like you have an even bigger problem than I do. I was hoping someone would comment on the angle viewer. I understand that it will magnify the image and perhaps that would help us some. Maybe someone that has one will help out.

Thanks for the reply.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
Are you saying it is tedious to half press shutter and while maintaining half press manually turning focus until the appropriate/selected focus indicator flashes? I don't doubt it is I just wanted to clarify.

Al
Jeff S said:
It is just to tedious to do by hand. You sound like you have an
even bigger problem than I do. I was hoping someone would comment
on the angle viewer. I understand that it will magnify the image
and perhaps that would help us some. Maybe someone that has one
will help out.

Thanks for the reply.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

Click to expand...
 
Thats great. What camera (to understand viewfinder limitations) and what tips can you offer to achieve sharp manual focus thru the camera viewfinder.

Thanks,
Al
George Druther said:
Cheap 400mm f5 telescope with 3x teleconverter and manualy focused.
Taken November 3rd
Click to expand...
[cut pic]
George Druther said:
--
In West Virginia there are no strangers.. Only friends we have'nt
met..



George, K2EWL http://wwwbg.tripod.com
Pics at http://www.pbase.com/george_druther
also at http://www.bytephoto.com/ (free hosting site)
Click to expand...
 
That would be great but you have to sorta sneak up on the focus and sometimes it will flash and go off and sometimes you can't get it to light up at all. Yes to me it is tedious especially with one hand. (holding camera with other).
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
There is very little detail in moon shots compared to terrestrial shots. I have no problem with my 1340MM scope either. Anyway my question is for help and information on a better way of manual focus not to see how many other people can do it. I know most have no trouble but my eyes are not the best and I thought maybe the magnified eyepiece thing would help me.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

 
Jeff S said:
There is very little detail in moon shots compared to terrestrial
shots. I have no problem with my 1340MM scope either. Anyway my
question is for help and information on a better way of manual
focus not to see how many other people can do it. I know most have
no trouble but my eyes are not the best and I thought maybe the
magnified eyepiece thing would help me.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

Click to expand...
Jeff.. that pix was meant for the 300d forum, I wasn't trying to make any point, the forum's software sent me here..

73
George
 
I agree its not as easy as AF.

I have very little experience in using the AF indicator while performing MF hence my questions to you. But don't you have to hold the camera with one hand and the lens with the other when performing MF anyway. Also for me it is far more tedious to have dozens of OOF MF shots than to search for an focus indicator and at least get an in focus shot.

You have to make sure the focus indicator is over the highest contrast part of the object you want in focus, even if you reframe the shot after achiveing focus.

And also my situation is different, as my eyes can not determine if an object is in focus when the AF indicator can. So the focus indicators are a usefull tool for me.

Of course the AF indicator points will not work in low light, low contrast situations and neither do ones eyes.

So that does indeed bring us back to optical attachments to viewfinder to help with manual focus.

Al

Bottom line for me is that
Jeff S said:
That would be great but you have to sorta sneak up on the focus and
sometimes it will flash and go off and sometimes you can't get it
to light up at all. Yes to me it is tedious especially with one
hand. (holding camera with other).
Jeff S
WB9ZPO

Click to expand...
 
Jeff S wrote:
[...]
Jeff S said:
I was hoping someone would comment
on the angle viewer. I understand that it will magnify the image
and perhaps that would help us some. Maybe someone that has one
will help out.
Click to expand...
I have what sounds like a problem similar to yours.

Just so people who don't wear glasses will understand:

I wear graduated multi-focal glasses that have 3 ranges in them.
Top section is for distance viewing > 10ft
mid section is 18 In - 10ft
bottom section is for reading

Wearing glasses prevents me from getting my eye close enough to the viewfinder to be able to see the entire display through the viewfinder. I actually have to move my eye so I can see the info display at the bottom of the viewfinder.
I have an almost impossible task trying to get even close to good manual focus.

I've tried using the viewfinder without my glasses but even with maximum diopter adjustment it's still blurry.

The situation is complicated because my right eye is weaker than my left so I end up with my nose squashed against the LCD.

I went to Canon in Perth Western Australia, but they don't stock parts and won't get them in for testing.

There are no stores here that hold stocks of equipment that aren't big sellers, especially viewfinderparts, and the only way they will get them in is if I put a deposit on the item so they are guaranteed of a sale.

I understand there is quite a large range of viewfinder adapters with various features, and I dont have the money to throw away on buying in order to try different viewfinder adapters, I am watching this thread to see if someone with similar problems has already found a solution.

My estimation for what I need is a viewfinder extender with some magnification to allow my eye to get closer to the viewfinder and see all of it including the information displayed below the image.

BTW, can anyone point to a URL that displays Viewfinder adapters, I can't find details anywhere.
Jeff S said:
Thanks for the reply.
Jeff S
WB9ZPO
Click to expand...
 
I wear trifocals and what I've done is set the diopter adjustment on 300D to correct for top section of my glasses - distance viewing. I'm able to focus manual lenses with this setting and also see the camera settings in the viewfinder esp if I push my glasses tight against the viewfinder.

Gene
thdwyer said:
I have what sounds like a problem similar to yours.

Just so people who don't wear glasses will understand:

I wear graduated multi-focal glasses that have 3 ranges in them.
Top section is for distance viewing > 10ft
mid section is 18 In - 10ft
bottom section is for reading

Wearing glasses prevents me from getting my eye close enough to the
viewfinder to be able to see the entire display through the
viewfinder. I actually have to move my eye so I can see the info
display at the bottom of the viewfinder.
I have an almost impossible task trying to get even close to good
manual focus.

I've tried using the viewfinder without my glasses but even with
maximum diopter adjustment it's still blurry.

The situation is complicated because my right eye is weaker than my
left so I end up with my nose squashed against the LCD.

I went to Canon in Perth Western Australia, but they don't stock
parts and won't get them in for testing.
There are no stores here that hold stocks of equipment that aren't
big sellers, especially viewfinderparts, and the only way they will
get them in is if I put a deposit on the item so they are
guaranteed of a sale.
I understand there is quite a large range of viewfinder adapters
with various features, and I dont have the money to throw away on
buying in order to try different viewfinder adapters, I am watching
this thread to see if someone with similar problems has already
found a solution.

My estimation for what I need is a viewfinder extender with some
magnification to allow my eye to get closer to the viewfinder and
see all of it including the information displayed below the image.

BTW, can anyone point to a URL that displays Viewfinder adapters, I
can't find details anywhere.
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/gwilburn
 
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