Expecting a Baby - Time for a new Camera :-)

If Panasonic didn't include good anti-dust sealing to LX100's zoom, it's a great pity and this is a shame on them. :( And how Leica could tolerate this obvious mistake, I wonder (they are selling LX100 under the Leica brand!).
It's gained afterwards. I know for sure there is not anti-dust sealing for the LX100 Mark 1 and apparently 2 suffer from the same issue.
For me myself, I'd probably accept this risk and go for it. It's not really something fatal... a bit of dust? So what? Will it harm your photography? Because there isn't any interchangeable zoom lens for M43 which can compete with Leica zoom on LX100 with regard to both aperture and IQ and bulkiness of the whole "camera+lens" pair. Look, any single quality zoom for M43 itself costs and weights much more than the whole LX100. But... that's me :) for you, you decide.
Question is, can this problem happen with interchangeable lens?
Yes. Interchangeable zooms are also prone to sucking dust inside unless weather and dust sealed from the factory.
or in case of a dust I can just remove the lens, and the Sensor is being exposed to me and I can just blow some air on it?
Yes, but this does not solve the problem of the dust inside the lens itself.
to my eye - very informative and clearly suggests that 15-45 should be avoided, 16-50 is so-so, 18-55 is very good.
I was doing some more research, and people said the 15-45 is decent to start with, most had a problem with the PowerZoom option (which means you can't manually Zoom but need to use a knob? I'm under the impression I can handle it nicely because all I had are pocket cameras and all have 'Power zoom' by default? :-)
I think it is a bad idea - to purchase a new camera which has no clear ergonomic and IQ advantage over your old compact.
Χ-Ε3 (or X-T20) plus just one XF 35mm F2.0 lens, add the quality metal lens hood to it - and be the happy photographer until you feel that your creativity is bumping your hardware limits (at that moment you maybe will have a budget again, for a second lens, whichever you choose).
Well, I'm coming for a 10X optical zoom Cameras. I was not sure I can get used to 15-45 (saying myself I SHOULD for quality). So 35mm sounds even harder to get used as? as there is less focal length? or that's no the case?
35mm on Fuji X is, in fact, identical by AOV to the classic "nifty fifty" lens which was standard for 135 film photography since Leica times. People were starting their photography from 44-45 degrees AOV for more than a century. They were taking photos with 105-110mm on 6x9 cameras, 75-80mm on 6x6 cameras, 50mm on 135 film cameras - all these give you 44-45 degrees fixed AOV. A large share of the most famous photographic works of the XX century was shot with "50mm equivalent AOV" lenses. I already explained this in this thread before.

So you can start with Fuji X body and XF 35mm f/2.0 single lens like other people did for 100+ years already. Later for tele, you can add XC 50-230 to your gear (it is dirt cheap but not bad at all). Or you can sell 35mm and get a pair of 23mm and 50mm instead, or XF 18-55 if you can't live without zooming. With 35/2 you do zoom by feet, that simple.

You decide.
GX85 (aka GX80) comes to mind - the 16 MP sensor is good enough, this is not an issue.
PANASONIC GX80 + 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH kit is more expensive here compared to the XT100 Kit or the T20 kit. So if both are superior, I think I should stick with the Fuji?
If you don't get at least 1/3 cost saving from M43 compared to Fuji - then yes, the idea of M43 lose any sense. Correct.
You can put 16-50 onto X-T100 if you wish.
Well, yes - but as for now, buying Kits are WAY cheaper compared to buying Body + lens. So my two option (unless I buy future lens) is T20 with 16-50 or X-T100 with 14-45.
X-T20 and XC 16-50 then.
http://www.opticallimits.com/fuji_x page has reviews of XC 16-50 and XF 18-55 so you can compare (it's always good to compare 2 reviews of 2 lenses from 1 (one) single source, otherwise you are comparing apples to oranges).
Too bad they don't have the 15-45 to compare too :-)
Because of testers don't take 15-45 seriously and don't want to waste their time on it.
But according to the DPreview camera review. Both the T20 and XT100 are not fast enough,
What?! X-T20 is fast enough (X-E3 too). Stop and think a bit, you already get plenty of knowledge from this thread. Speaking "speed" we are not speaking "speed of a standalone body" but "speed of the body+lens combo", always. X-T20 is very fast when combined with any of XF F2.0 lenses - AF works at the top-DSLR level of speed.
but it's hard to know how ti compare to the RX100 :-)
X-T20 with 16-50 will be slightly better or on par. With 18-55 - considerably better. With XF 35mm f/2.0 - much better (but no zoom, zoom by feet only). These are my own and personal, subjective (but educated) expectations.
 
Here is the eGlobal Central EU page with Fuji kits. Or maybe their global site will work better for you? If they ship to your country, go for it. If not, find a friend whom they will ship to, he will receive it for you and send it to you in a parcel. That's what I recently did myself. You decide what is good for you, anyway. I can speak for myself only.
 
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For me myself, I'd probably accept this risk and go for it. It's not really something fatal... a bit of dust? So what? Will it harm your photography?
I'll just add to it (because I think I wasn't clear by using 'lens'), that dust in LENS is probably not big of an issue for me either. I have it on my old compact camera, never noticed it while checking my photos. The problem with the LX100 is that dust is reaching the SENSOR. I was checking on local store, warranty does not cover it. So it's around 70$ to get it services to open the camera and dust off the sensor.
Look, any single quality zoom for M43 itself costs and weights much more than the whole LX100
After searching for a while, I have to agree with you - that's why I moved one sensor up insize - the APC land and the X-T100 :-)
I think it is a bad idea - to purchase a new camera which has no clear ergonomic and IQ advantage over your old compact.
Oh, no. Nothing like that :-) My old Camera is Panasonic TZ50. It's in the size of the RX100, no touch screen, no ergonomic what so ever. There is nothing even to talk about IQ because it's a 10 years old Camera. The X-T100 with the 'lesser kit lens' (15-45mm) I'm guessing knock the TZ50 out of the park. I just mentioned the old Compact camera and it also have 'Power Zoom', so I'm 'used to' handle it.
I already explained this in this thread before.
Yes you have :-) It just I learn quite a lot sense our early replies, and re-reading it now makes it more clearer to me and easier to remember, thanks! :-)
What?! X-T20 is fast enough (X-E3 too). Stop and think a bit, you already get plenty of knowledge from this thread. Speaking "speed" we are not speaking "speed of a standalone body" but "speed of the body+lens combo", always. X-T20 is very fast when combined with any of XF F2.0 lenses - AF works at the top-DSLR level of speed.
Again, it's probably an error on my side, I'm not 'Speed' is equivalent to 'Autofocus Speed'? The RX100 V strong point for parents is continuous autofocus and Eye AF. When reviewing the X-T100 according to the DPreview review:

"To broadly sum up, we find that the X-T100's autofocus system is not up to the task of handling moving subjects, even when tracking an approaching subject, which is relatively easy for many competitive modern cameras.".

On the X-T20 they say:

'Although Fujifilm has suggested face detection is improved on the X-T20: now making it available in continuous shooting mode, but we weren't particularly impressed, it struggles particularly under dim lighting (the face-detect box will toggle on-and-off randomly unless the subject is staring right at you).'

If I am to guess, I would say AUTOFOCUS is a Camera feature, and the speed the focus is being changed is based on the LENS and the CAMERA? or it's a wrong guess here? :-)
X-T20 with 16-50 will be slightly better or on par. With 18-55 - considerably better. With XF 35mm f/2.0 - much better (but no zoom, zoom by feet only). These are my own and personal, subjective (but educated) expectations.
Well, the RX100V is more expensive compared ot the X-T20 kit, and probably will give me much less nicer pictures over higher ISO, so X-T20 has an option to be superior with lens in the future, so leaning towards the Fuji.

A friend of mine raise a nice argument today. When your out for a bar, or just hiking during the day, you can use your phone. Right - it doesn't have any real zoom, but I hardly use zoom. Phones are so strong today, that while the IQ of a recent phone is not near the RX100V, it's not very far off for day shooting where ISO and Sensor size is not much of a problem. He said he think I should get a Camera I can grow 'into' (so in 1-2 years I can get better lens), because there is a chance that in two years from now, the smart phones cameras will be very close to RX100V, but no where near a Mirrorless Camera with good lens.
 
Question is, can this problem (dust) happen with interchangeable lens? or in case of a dust I can just remove the lens, and the Sensor is being exposed to me and I can just blow some air on it?
If you never remove the lens, then little chance of dust getting in the camera body. Dust can get inside a zoom lens (all that zooming action makes them little air pumpers). You can clean the inside of the camera body yourself, obviously with a whole lot of care. Or just have a camera tech do this for you. I live in a freaking desert, paved with dust. While a tech examining my gear will likely find some dust inside, that dust has very little effect on my photos. I just live with it.
people said the 15-45 is decent to start with, most had a problem with the PowerZoom option (which means you can't manually Zoom but need to use a knob? I'm under the impression I can handle it nicely because all I had are pocket cameras and all have 'Power zoom' by default?
I have not tried the Fuji 15-45 (very little chance I ever will). Reports I have read say the picture IQ is fine. But the thing handles like a toy. I had this same experience when I tried the 16-50 kit lens on a Sony a6000. Hated that, prefer camera gear that feels like a fine instrument, not a toy. Again, have not tried it, but the Fuji 16-50 XC sounds like a decent compromise for a budget kit. Most compact cameras are toy like, just comes with the compact territory. Starting out you may not notice this.

This may start a war, but I do NOT recommend a prime for your first lens. Even a toy zoom will be less frustrating. A nice prime could well be your second lens. I am not fixated on either, I shoot with both primes and zooms.
PANASONIC GX80 + 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH kit is more expensive here compared to the XT100 Kit or the T20 kit. So if both are superior, I think I should stick with the Fuji?
Yeah, that is strange that the GX80 is priced higher than the X-T20. Are you sure the Panasonic was not really the GX9? I tried the X-T20 and felt that it was an advanced camera. Too advanced for a beginner, unless that beginner is determined to invest a lot of effort into photography. The Fuji X-E2s or X-E3 are more beginner friendly.
according to the DPreview camera review. Both the T20 and XT100 are not fast enough
Is this "fast" referring to AF speed? The X-E2s and X-T20 that I have tried were plenty fast for AF. Not as fast as a $4000 DSLR, but what the heck?
Look, any single quality zoom for M43 itself costs and weights much more than the whole LX100
After searching for a while, I have to agree with you - that's why I moved one sensor up insize - the APC land and the X-T100
M4/3 is where I currently live and breath. And that is far from the case. There are quality lenses for M4/3 around $300 (USD). Way under the price of a LX100 !
Well, the RX100V is more expensive compared ot the X-T20 kit, and probably will give me much less nicer pictures over higher ISO, so X-T20 has an option to be superior with lens in the future, so leaning towards the Fuji.
Once again, it would be nuts to pay a bigger price for a RX100V than a X-T20. Apparently in your country you get howling good deals on Fuji. Are you sure these Fuji deals are not grey market?

Kelly
 
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Hi everyone,

My wife and I are expected a baby soon, and it's to replace our very old Panasonic TZ50 camera. I was pretty happy with my TZ50 camera. The only down side was low lighting pictures were plain bad. Besides taking pictures of the future baby, our main hobby is hiking. The TZ50 came with wide angle which was great for capturing long views, and a 10X zoom which served us well when Wild animals were showing.

When I did research about the TZ50 10 years ago, I was torn about going compact vs mid-size like the Panasonic DMC-FZ300 equivalent of that time.

At the end, we decided to give up on higher quality lens for portability (as in the past we used to hike for couple of days more often, and we preferred the lighter camera). But to my understanding, today's compact 1" sensor are pretty decent, even during low-light.

So, I'm looking for two recommendations please:

One compact Camera (excellent point and click with the ability to shot more impressive if one want by playing around with the settings).

One bigger camera like the FZ300 that again - can take great point and click shot when your in a hurry, but have the option to go one step above.

And lastly - I guess that one in a while we will like to take a video of the baby. Are today still camera have good enough video quality? or it's still a better idea to get a dedicated Video camera?

Thank you!
What's your budget?

Sony's RX100 V or RX100 VA at $700-$800 offers lightning fast phase detection autofocus, sharp glorious 4k video and a very usable zoom range for photographing kids. It's very light and compact and it has a very fast lens for low light photography. I'd recommend getting a spare battery or two and a leather case to help keep a good grip on it. To match all that it can do with a bigger sensor will cost you more money. None of its 1" competition offers autofocus that can keep up.

As far as carrying a dedicated video camera, its hardly needed anymore. The bigger 1" sensor camcorders worth buying (Sony FDR-AX100, Sony FDR-AX700, Canon Vixia GX10) are very expensive. I personally use an FDR-AX100 along side my mirrorless when shooting video as I prefer the camcorder form factor and controls for extended video use. There are some advantages (parfocal lens, smooth iris, no recording limit, built-in ND filters, etc), but you'll realize none of them if you just point and shoot.
 
A friend of mine raise a nice argument today. When your out for a bar, or just hiking during the day, you can use your phone. Right - it doesn't have any real zoom, but I hardly use zoom. Phones are so strong today, that while the IQ of a recent phone is not near the RX100V, it's not very far off for day shooting where ISO and Sensor size is not much of a problem. He said he think I should get a Camera I can grow 'into' (so in 1-2 years I can get better lens), because there is a chance that in two years from now, the smart phones cameras will be very close to RX100V, but no where near a Mirrorless Camera with good lens.
Try a Google Pixel 3 and you may eat those words. In some circumstances I found my old Pixel 2 to be competitive with my Sony APS-C sensor. Hell when taking a photo of a dim night scene my Pixel 3 with night shot can on occasion look better (at full extent, no pixel peeping) than an OOC jpg from my full frame A7iii, which currently holds the high ground for low light photography among FF sensors on DxO mark.
 
And what do people say, is it from the factory or is gained later? (This is one another reason to avoid cheap zooms - when zooming in and out, they change the length and internal volume and tend to suck the surrounding air into the lens, I recall this was a big problem for some lenses which collected loads of dust inside after 1-2 years).

If Panasonic didn't include good anti-dust sealing to LX100's zoom, it's a great pity and this is a shame on them. :( And how Leica could tolerate this obvious mistake, I wonder (they are selling LX100 under the Leica brand!).
It's gained afterwards. I know for sure there is not anti-dust sealing for the LX100 Mark 1 and apparently 2 suffer from the same issue. Question is, can this problem happen with interchangeable lens? or in case of a dust I can just remove the lens, and the Sensor is being exposed to me and I can just blow some air on it?
Yes, you can clean the sensor on an MFT ILC. That said, I haven't ever needed to clean a sensor in 6 years of using Panasonic cameras. I used to have to clean my Canon DSLRs' sensors on an almost monthly basis.
to my eye - very informative and clearly suggests that 15-45 should be avoided, 16-50 is so-so, 18-55 is very good.
I was doing some more research, and people said the 15-45 is decent to start with
The non-power-zoom 14-45 was very good for a cheap kit lens. The second version of the 14-42 non-power-zoom lens also got good reviews. The power-zoom lens was widely reported to cause significant problems with shutter shock. I'd avoid it unless you absolutely need power zoom for video. If you want a high-performing tiny pancake kit zoom, go for the much newer 12-32.
, most had a problem with the PowerZoom option (which means you can't manually Zoom but need to use a knob? I'm under the impression I can handle it nicely because all I had are pocket cameras and all have 'Power zoom' by default? :-)
Χ-Ε3 (or X-T20) plus just one XF 35mm F2.0 lens, add the quality metal lens hood to it - and be the happy photographer until you feel that your creativity is bumping your hardware limits (at that moment you maybe will have a budget again, for a second lens, whichever you choose).
Well, I'm coming for a 10X optical zoom Cameras. I was not sure I can get used to 15-45 (saying myself I SHOULD for quality). So 35mm sounds even harder to get used as? as there is less focal length? or that's no the case?
So if the idea of LX100 failed, I think you should also explore the idea of 4/3-sensor kit. Either you will get the Fuji-equivalent kit for 2/3 of the price, or you will get much more advanced setup for the same budget. Think Panasonic M43 interchangeable lens body, or maybe Olympus, with EVF. Panasonic GX9 is too new and costs much, GX8 has known "shutter shock" issue, so GX85 (aka GX80) comes to mind - the 16 MP sensor is good enough, this is not an issue.
PANASONIC GX80 + 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH kit is more expensive here compared to the XT100 Kit or the T20 kit. So if both are superior, I think I should stick with the Fuji?
Should I be aiming for the X-T20 due to that? or difference aren't that of a problem?
You can put 16-50 onto X-T100 if you wish.
Well, yes - but as for now, buying Kits are WAY cheaper compared to buying Body + lens. So my two option (unless I buy future lens) is T20 with 16-50 or X-T100 with 14-45.
http://www.opticallimits.com/fuji_x page has reviews of XC 16-50 and XF 18-55 so you can compare (it's always good to compare 2 reviews of 2 lenses from 1 (one) single source, otherwise you are comparing apples to oranges).
Too bad they don't have the 15-45 to compare too :-) But according to the DPreview camera review. Both the T20 and XT100 are not fast enough, but it's hard to know how ti compare to the RX100 :-)
 
The problem with the LX100 is that dust is reaching the SENSOR.
The problem with the LX100 (aka Leica Typ 109) is the great shame on Panasonic who didn't fix it and continued it in LX100II (aka Leica D-LUX 7) without fixing. And on Leica who allowed it.
Look, any single quality zoom for M43 itself costs and weights much more than the whole LX100
After searching for a while, I have to agree with you - that's why I moved one sensor up insize - the APC land and the X-T100 :-)
And this is a big problem with the whole concept of "the smaller sensor gives you less bulkiness". No, it does not, the whole concept is wrong. Speaking the "camera+lens combination" we clearly see, that camera's body bulkiness accounts for only a small share of the whole bulkiness; better optics drive the process with the larger diameter of the optical elements, thus more weight of the lens' structural components (they must be not only mechanically strong, but also very rigid to ensure the accuracy required by optical preciousness).

Let's recall that for any (abstract) structure if you geometrically upscale it, the weight of the structure increases proportionally to the 3rd power of the linear size increase. If you have one stone cube 1'x1'x1' and the other stone cube is 2'x2'x2' then that second cube will be eight times heavier than the first.

For the complex structures like lenses, things are much more complicated but the weight of the lens (of the same given schema) unanimously increases if we upscale its diameter. Not so straightforward like with the stone bricks, but this is just physics.

Look at the famous M43 zoom lens Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-35 mm f/2.0 SWD - it weighs 915 grams! Guess, why the FF zoom with similar focal length and aperture will be neither much heavier nor much bulkier? (you may check this on any other brand's lenses of similar characteristics).

The answer is pretty simple. This "F-number" thing actually just means the ratio of the system's focal length to the diameter of the entrance pupil - what can be simpler than this?

So, for the lens (of the given focal length) it's maximal aperture unanimously defines (dictates!) the diameter of the optical elements! And the diameter of optics dictates weight of the whole lens structure.

Note: sensor size does not have any direct(!) influence on this.

The influence of the sensor size is indirect - for a given (desired) AOV, with a smaller sensor you need a smaller focal length to achieve it. So for the given maximal aperture and AOV, the lens for the smaller sensor will be proportionally smaller by diameter... and have less weight.

But if we take the lens of a given focal length and given maximum aperture, we get exactly the same diameter of optics, no matter how large the sensor is.

An example. Say, we want to get our "50mm equivalent AOV" with f/1.4 on 2 sensors: one is "FF" 24x36mm (crop factor 1.0), the other is M43 (crop factor 2.0).

For the FF sensor, we (obviously) need the lens with 50mm focal length and (see above) the diameter of the optics should be 50/1.4 = approx. 36mm. Suppose, this lens weighs 400 grams.

For the M43 sensor, for our desired AOV we need the 25mm lens (50mm / crop 2.0) and the diameter of the optics should be approx. 18mm. What will be the weight of this lens (given we are using the same materials - glass and metals and plastics - and same technology)? Given the diameter of optics is 2 times smaller, if lenses were stones, we could expect this small lens to weight 50 grams only! Wow, what a potential gain! But stop... Panasonic Leica Summilux DG 25mm F1.4 weights 200 grams. Something already went wrong, no?

So we see that downsizing the sensor may bring us some extra gain due to smaller focal lengths needed... or may not. It depends more on materials and design.

But we can be pretty sure, that given the equal absolute focal length and the equal maximal aperture, two lenses will differ in weight and size only due to the difference in design and materials, at the same time sensor size doesn't matter at all. M43 16-80 F2.8 zoom and FF 16-80 F2.8 zoom of the same optical scheme will both have similar size and/or similar weight (like around 800-1000 grams). Because of F2.8 - to get F2.8 at 80mm, we need the effective pupil diameter of about 29mm in both cases (in reality the lenses of this kind are using filter threads of around 72-77-82mm, like this).

In fact, with 2 times smaller sensor the size of the camera body did not downsize to 1/2 of the FF camera size, and weight did not decrease to 1/8 :) So the declared size and weight gains are, in fact, a myth, it's fiction. Even the decrease in the price was not so significant (if any at all).

Why RX100 is so miniature? The sensor size matter indirectly, again. Actually, the RX100 lens is not 24-70mm - in reality, it is only 8.8-25.7mm focal length. For 1" sensor, this is what you need to get the needed range for AOV. So it needs only 9.2mm for its "nominal" pupil diameter! Of course, it's much easier to design and manufacture the small lens to be very good, your optics are miniature even compared to M43.
What?! X-T20 is fast enough (X-E3 too). Stop and think a bit, you already get plenty of knowledge from this thread. Speaking "speed" we are not speaking "speed of a standalone body" but "speed of the body+lens combo", always. X-T20 is very fast when combined with any of XF F2.0 lenses - AF works at the top-DSLR level of speed.
Again, it's probably an error on my side, I'm not 'Speed' is equivalent to 'Autofocus Speed'? The RX100 V strong point for parents is continuous autofocus and Eye AF.
X-T20 has both and is better in both than any compact, given the lens is sufficiently good.
When reviewing the X-T100 according to the DPreview review:

"To broadly sum up, we find that the X-T100's autofocus system is not up to the task of handling moving subjects, even when tracking an approaching subject, which is relatively easy for many competitive modern cameras.".
Which lens did they use for the test?
On the X-T20 they say:

'Although Fujifilm has suggested face detection is improved on the X-T20: now making it available in continuous shooting mode, but we weren't particularly impressed, it struggles particularly under dim lighting (the face-detect box will toggle on-and-off randomly unless the subject is staring right at you).'
Which lens did they use for the test?
If I am to guess, I would say AUTOFOCUS is a Camera feature,
No. AF is the feature of the body+lens combo.

Example 1. XF 35mm F1.4 lens is known for its somehow outdated and slow AF behavior. With the arrival of the new X-T3, owners of 35/1.4 discovered, that the AF suddenly became much faster!

It turned out that on the entry-level bodies this same 35/1.4 is badly slow, on middle-range bodies - somehow slower than desirable, on X-T3 - no problems at all.

One lens, different bodies - different results.

Example 2. Someone in Fuji forum here was dissatisfied with AF performance of his lens for rapid action while shooting sports (I can't recall, was it 18-55 or 55-200). He got the XF 50-140 F2.8 zoom... and was pleasantly surprised with the AF speed. Later he tried some of the F2.0 primes... and was surprised even more pleasantly.

I observed this many times in my Canon days: the same body, but with different lenses, your AF behaves very differently. Take 24-70 F2.8 L USM pro-grade zoom and you have fast and reliable AF, take L-rated pro primes - even better and faster, but with consumer-grade lenses... so-so. The cheap "plastic" kit lens was a complete disaster.

One body, different lenses - different results.
and the speed the focus is being changed is based on the LENS and the CAMERA? or it's a wrong guess here? :-)
Yes, the combo of the camera body and the lens. I think that with XF F2.0 lenses even an entry-level body (X-T100, X-A5) would produce acceptable AF, but with XF 35mm F1.4 (not to mention XF 56mm F1.2)... I doubt. Put an XC kit lens on X-T3 body - I think it will be something acceptable, but... far from shiny.
X-T20 with 16-50 will be slightly better or on par. With 18-55 - considerably better. With XF 35mm f/2.0 - much better (but no zoom, zoom by feet only). These are my own and personal, subjective (but educated) expectations.
Well, the RX100V is more expensive compared ot the X-T20 kit, and probably will give me much less nicer pictures over higher ISO, so X-T20 has an option to be superior with lens in the future, so leaning towards the Fuji.

A friend of mine raise a nice argument today. When your out for a bar, or just hiking during the day, you can use your phone. Right - it doesn't have any real zoom, but I hardly use zoom.
You hardly use zoom... so maybe the prime 35mm fast lens is better for you?
Phones are so strong today, that while the IQ of a recent phone is not near the RX100V, it's not very far off for day shooting where ISO and Sensor size is not much of a problem. He said he think I should get a Camera I can grow 'into' (so in 1-2 years I can get better lens), because there is a chance that in two years from now, the smart phones cameras will be very close to RX100V, but no where near a Mirrorless Camera with good lens.
This is very reasonable. I already wrote somewhere that the biggest market pressure "from below" goes from smartphones and in a few years the whole class of the small-sensor compacts (less than 1") will be eaten away by them and will disappear from the market.

But smartphones need to be thin, so they have a "natural", physical limit on the camera sensor size (just no space to place anything larger). So my guess is, 1" cameras will survive - see above about F-number and lens size. Also, there are some physical limits on the pixel density (diffraction!) so smartphones with their tiny sensors would not be able to compete with M43 and APS-C seriously with regard to IQ.

Also, XF 35/2 on X-T20 makes it pocketable enough to carry with you to parties, events and elsewhere. Less than 500 grams total, I guess. And your photos will (probably) be the best among others :) optics create the picture, the sensor captures it. Smartphones have no physical space inside them either for optics or for a sensor.
 
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As far as carrying a dedicated video camera, its hardly needed anymore. The bigger 1" sensor camcorders worth buying (Sony FDR-AX100, Sony FDR-AX700, Canon Vixia GX10) are very expensive. I personally use an FDR-AX100 along side my mirrorless when shooting video as I prefer the camcorder form factor and controls for extended video use. There are some advantages (parfocal lens, smooth iris, no recording limit, built-in ND filters, etc), but you'll realize none of them if you just point and shoot.
Thanks for clearing it out!

Can I take for example a video of a 'Suprise party' event, and than extract photos from the Video? or this won't work and I need to either take photos or take a video?
 
Try a Google Pixel 3 and you may eat those words. In some circumstances I found my old Pixel 2 to be competitive with my Sony APS-C sensor. Hell when taking a photo of a dim night scene my Pixel 3 with night shot can on occasion look better (at full extent, no pixel peeping) than an OOC jpg from my full frame A7iii, which currently holds the high ground for low light photography among FF sensors on DxO mark.
Well, that works for me, because it means I see no reason to pay 800$ of a pocket camera as It might be obsolete in 2-3 years due to a new phone :-) I can focus on Mirrorless with bigger sensor for indoor/night pictures.
 
Yes, you can clean the sensor on an MFT ILC. That said, I haven't ever needed to clean a sensor in 6 years of using Panasonic cameras. I used to have to clean my Canon DSLRs' sensors on an almost monthly basis.
I can't find the original post, but someone mentioned that compare to DSLR, he find Mirrorless camera must less susceptible to dust issue. Something about the Sensor placement...
 
If you never remove the lens, then little chance of dust getting in the camera body. Dust can get inside a zoom lens (all that zooming action makes them little air pumpers). You can clean the inside of the camera body yourself, obviously with a whole lot of care. Or just have a camera tech do this for you. I live in a freaking desert, paved with dust. While a tech examining my gear will likely find some dust inside, that dust has very little effect on my photos. I just live with it.
My compact TZ100 Camera has dust on the Lens. I never able to detect it on the pictures. I guess it's more of an issue when you have dust on the Sensor, but as you mentioned, maybe a small amount of air can fix it. If something like that happens on non interchange lens here, It's around 70$ to clean it here (price of a service as It is not included in the warranty).
I have not tried the Fuji 15-45 (very little chance I ever will). Reports I have read say the picture IQ is fine. But the thing handles like a toy. I had this same experience when I tried the 16-50 kit lens on a Sony a6000. Hated that, prefer camera gear that feels like a fine instrument, not a toy. Again, have not tried it, but the Fuji 16-50 XC sounds like a decent compromise for a budget kit. Most compact cameras are toy like, just comes with the compact territory. Starting out you may not notice this.

This may start a war, but I do NOT recommend a prime for your first lens. Even a toy zoom will be less frustrating. A nice prime could well be your second lens. I am not fixated on either, I shoot with both primes and zooms.
Well, ignore is a bless they say. I have no idea how 'Real lens' feels. So I have no idea what feels like a Toy. So - it feels like a good thing to start with a Toy lens, as you can only go up. If the Quality is fine, I can work with it. 1-2 years ahead, I probably will upgrade into better lens, But right now, the difference between buying a KIT and Body + Lens is HUGE (even for the SAME lens as the lens that come with the kit). Being my first 'Big' camera, I don't want to spend a lot of money to later figure out I prefer compact design.
Yeah, that is strange that the GX80 is priced higher than the X-T20. Are you sure the Panasonic was not really the GX9? I tried the X-T20 and felt that it was an advanced camera. Too advanced for a beginner, unless that beginner is determined to invest a lot of effort into photography. The Fuji X-E2s or X-E3 are more beginner friendly.
Yep, I just double check on another store. GX80 with 12-32mm kit lens is around 940$, the GX85 is around 1020$. The T20 with 16-55m kit lens is around 910$, and the Fuji X-T100 with 15-45 kit lens are 700$.

The Fuji E3 is need cheaper than the T20 when you compare just the Body. But the T20 has the 16-50mm kits lens. The E3 kit with only 35mm or 15-88 lens. Both are much more expensive, so does the kit. The E3 with the 15-88m lens is around 1200$, which is 300$ more expensive than the T20 16-50m lens kit combo :-)

Isn't the E2 inferior compared to the E3/X-T100/T20? I can buy here E2S or E2 at around 1025$, but with the better 18-55m lens (as part of a kit).
Is this "fast" referring to AF speed? The X-E2s and X-T20 that I have tried were plenty fast for AF. Not as fast as a $4000 DSLR, but what the heck?
The Dpreview reviews on the X-T100 says:

"To broadly sum up, we find that the X-T100's autofocus system is not up to the task of handling moving subjects, even when tracking an approaching subject, which is relatively easy for many competitive modern cameras.".

And on the X-T20:

'Although Fujifilm has suggested face detection is improved on the X-T20: now making it available in continuous shooting mode, but we weren't particularly impressed, it struggles particularly under dim lighting (the face-detect box will toggle on-and-off randomly unless the subject is staring right at you).'

I'm not sure what lens they used - couldn't find this information on the review.
M4/3 is where I currently live and breath. And that is far from the case. There are quality lenses for M4/3 around $300 (USD). Way under the price of a LX100 !
Shot away. I love to hear about more options. Is there any M4/3 cameras with interchangeable lens that fits the spec I mentioned?
Once again, it would be nuts to pay a bigger price for a RX100V than a X-T20. Apparently in your country you get howling good deals on Fuji. Are you sure these Fuji deals are not grey market?

Kelly
The Fuji prices are aligned with the prices in Amazon. What doesn't makes sense is the Sony prices here. It's around 270$ more expensive than what Amazon ask for. I'm not sure why. It's interesting because Sony has official Retail here.
 
As far as carrying a dedicated video camera, its hardly needed anymore. The bigger 1" sensor camcorders worth buying (Sony FDR-AX100, Sony FDR-AX700, Canon Vixia GX10) are very expensive. I personally use an FDR-AX100 along side my mirrorless when shooting video as I prefer the camcorder form factor and controls for extended video use. There are some advantages (parfocal lens, smooth iris, no recording limit, built-in ND filters, etc), but you'll realize none of them if you just point and shoot.
Thanks for clearing it out!

Can I take for example a video of a 'Suprise party' event, and than extract photos from the Video? or this won't work and I need to either take photos or take a video?
Yes and no. Often times the shutter speeds of video are slower which means the shot may be too blurry to be usable. If you speed the shutter up the video may look too staccato. Also video uses a purely electronic shutter, which can be susceptible to rolling shutter (straight vertical lines look tilted). While annoying in video it's unacceptable in stills. For something with a relatively slow abd static subject you can get away with pulling 4k frames (about 8.8 megapixels).
 
This has been a very long thread. I lost track of which post had your "spec" in it. The M4/3 closest to the X-T100 would be the Olympus E-M10iii and the Panasonic G7. Against the X-T20 I would suggest the Oly E-M5ii and the Panny GX9. For low light the M4/3 zooms with f/2.8 are not cheap. The usual low light budget solution is a f/1.7 or f/1.8 prime, which are quite reasonable. Links for lots of opinions on M4/3 -

Olympus vs Panasonic

Small camera body with EVF and manual controls

Advice Needed: Fuji (XT-20/X-E3) vs. Olympus (E-M10 Mark III/E-M5 Mark) Ecosystem for Hobbyist

Fujifilm XT-100 a m43 killer

Kelly
 
Yes and no. Often times the shutter speeds of video are slower which means the shot may be too blurry to be usable. If you speed the shutter up the video may look too staccato. Also video uses a purely electronic shutter, which can be susceptible to rolling shutter (straight vertical lines look tilted). While annoying in video it's unacceptable in stills. For something with a relatively slow abd static subject you can get away with pulling 4k frames (about 8.8 megapixels).
So it's either use a normal shutter speed and MAYBE i'll be able to get non blurry picture. Or speed up the shutter and the video will look a bit strange.

Seems like in those 'Duel moment' where I want to both take pictures and video, I better use the Camera to take pictures and perhaps ask my wife to take the video with the smart phone...

Thanks!
 
This has been a very long thread. I lost track of which post had your "spec" in it.
You right, I'm sorry :-)

So I mainly use it for taking pictures while Hiking (day light, wide landscape pictures), and I'm expecting a child, so I need something I can use to take pictures of him outdoor and indoor in low-level when I'm home. A good AF speed is a plus as I heard children tend to run about :-)
The M4/3 closest to the X-T100 would be the Olympus E-M10iii and the Panasonic G7. Against the X-T20 I would suggest the Oly E-M5ii and the Panny GX9. For low light the M4/3 zooms with f/2.8 are not cheap. The usual low light budget solution is a f/1.7 or f/1.8 prime, which are quite reasonable.
The Panasonic G7 is pretty expensive here, I wonder why. You can get a X-T100 kit of 15-45m for 700$, but the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G7 +14-42 for 980$. It more expensive than the T-20, strange. Maybe it's importing thing and it's easier to import Fuji line. GX8 is closer to X-E3 with 18-55 lines. The Olympus is even more expensive. The LX100 for compression is around 750$. It's amazing really. I compare the local prices for PAnasonic here compared to Amazon, and it's WAY cheaper to order G7 from Amazon. I can get the Panasonic LUMIX G7 Interchangeable Lens (DSLM) Camera w/ 14-42mm Lens (Silver) & Camera Mic & Accesory Bundle in the price of the LX100 and XT-100 price here.

So if the XT-100 cost the same as the PAnasonic G7 - why wouldn't I go on the bigger Sensor? because the G7 looks much more bulky compared to the XT-100. Is the kit Panasonic lens are much better than the Fuji film?
I'm heading work, will dive into this link later one, thanks for sharing! :-)
 
The problem with the LX100 (aka Leica Typ 109) is the great shame on Panasonic who didn't fix it and continued it in LX100II (aka Leica D-LUX 7) without fixing. And on Leica who allowed it.
The more I search in this forum, the more I find faults in the Panasonic Camera. Some people talk about Lens 'Lottery'. Couple of people mentioned they tested couple of LX100 and each had a different results. There is no overall proof of stuff or number how often it happens, but it's there on the forum.
And this is a big problem with the whole concept of "the smaller sensor gives you less bulkiness". No, it does not, the whole concept is wrong. Speaking the "camera+lens combination" we clearly see, that camera's body bulkiness accounts for only a small share of the whole bulkiness; better optics drive the process with the larger diameter of the optical elements, thus more weight of the lens' structural components (they must be not only mechanically strong, but also very rigid to ensure the accuracy required by optical preciousness).
I'm not familiar with sensor and lens, but this makes sense, and indeed - I switched from 'how big is the body' to 'how big are the lens', because they seems to be the issue here.
X-T20 has both and is better in both than any compact, given the lens is sufficiently good.
Well, it's hard to know for show how the 15-45mm will perform against the RX100 Lens - because most pictures doesn't not state the lens they have been using, only the Camera.
Which lens did they use for the test?
I'm not sure. They didn't say strictly. They mentioned the camera 'comes' with lens (kit lens), but I wasn't able to find if the tests were being used with the KIT lens or any other lens.
Yes, the combo of the camera body and the lens. I think that with XF F2.0 lenses even an entry-level body (X-T100, X-A5) would produce acceptable AF, but with XF 35mm F1.4 (not to mention XF 56mm F1.2)... I doubt. Put an XC kit lens on X-T3 body - I think it will be something acceptable, but... far from shiny.
I guess I can START with the XC kit. Let's be realistic here, my wife is half way to bringing the baby, and he won't run until his 2 years old - that's enough time for me to upgrade the Kit lines into something 'faster' :-)
You hardly use zoom... so maybe the prime 35mm fast lens is better for you?
It's possible It's hard for me to tell without actually trying it. I probably need to find a store with lens for checking and see for myself. Or maybe find a review that demonstrate the difference on focal length between this and something like 15-45.
This is very reasonable. I already wrote somewhere that the biggest market pressure "from below" goes from smartphones and in a few years the whole class of the small-sensor compacts (less than 1") will be eaten away by them and will disappear from the market.

But smartphones need to be thin, so they have a "natural", physical limit on the camera sensor size (just no space to place anything larger). So my guess is, 1" cameras will survive - see above about F-number and lens size. Also, there are some physical limits on the pixel density (diffraction!) so smartphones with their tiny sensors would not be able to compete with M43 and APS-C seriously with regard to IQ.

Also, XF 35/2 on X-T20 makes it pocketable enough to carry with you to parties, events and elsewhere. Less than 500 grams total, I guess. And your photos will (probably) be the best among others :) optics create the picture, the sensor captures it. Smartphones have no physical space inside them either for optics or for a sensor.
That's why I think I won't be getting the RX100V. When I'm home, taking pictures of the baby, size isn't an issue. When I'm going out of a stroll in the street or picnic - you will never find me putting a camera in my pocket, I'm try to keep gear shiny, so I'll have a pouch for it. So if I'm carrying a pouch - I don't mind if it's slightly more bigger for a bigger Camera, It's not yet even NEAR close to DLSR Size/weight.

When I go to a pub or event, it's dark, and the RX100V won't do that much of a good job, I can just take flash pictures of my phone.

The only caveat is hiking - where you want to avoid carrying big stuff. I used to 'attach' the compact pouch on my chest strap, and walk with that. So I can easily take the camera from it and take pictures. It's probably means now I have to carry the camera in my bag, or find a pouch that doesn't 'move' and secure enough not near my legs so I can walk easily and climb. Time will tell if this will work.

Regrading lens. I might be able to squeeze not Kit lens if I'l buy the Lens online from Amazon. I prefer to buy the Body here, to get warranty for issues, but is there any problem with buying Lens from Amazon? do lens have Warranty? do they break often? Or once I tested it home and everything is fine I'm all set?

Also, should my focus be on Quality LENS or CAMERA? I'm still thinking on it, but I can go on XT-100 for example with XF 18-55 lines . OR, I can go for XT20 or E3 with XC lines. Which will have a better impact on quality?

And lastly:


Probably my un-trained eye, but pictures looks decent. People mentioned quality of the lens are good, it just the PZ that bother most.

Thanks again!
 
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Yes, you can clean the sensor on an MFT ILC. That said, I haven't ever needed to clean a sensor in 6 years of using Panasonic cameras. I used to have to clean my Canon DSLRs' sensors on an almost monthly basis.
I can't find the original post, but someone mentioned that compare to DSLR, he find Mirrorless camera must less susceptible to dust issue. Something about the Sensor placement...
I suspect it has to do with the fact that you don't have a mirror flapping up and down in front of the sensor, stirring up the air and dust in the mirror box and flicking oil from its mechanical parts onto the sensor.
 
The more I search in this forum, the more I find faults in the Panasonic Camera.
So let's leave Panny alone.
Which lens did they use for the test?
I'm not sure. They didn't say strictly.
So you see the signs of fraudulence here now? ;) yes if we will test Canon 5D4 with sharp prime 50mm F1.4 (shh! sit silently!) and Fuji with the cheap XC consumer "kit" zoom(!) then we know who will win the race, but we will never tell you something... ;)

Again - think the combo of the body and the lens.
I guess I can START with the XC kit.
Then my vote goes for XC 16-50 + X-T20 body.

Cheap kit lenses are disposables, in a year or two you will not be able to sell it for any price at all, second-hand market is full of cheap "kit" lenses upgraded to something decent.

On the contrary, mid-level lenses retain substantial value and are still "sellable" (even made by third-party manufacturers), and the pro-grade lenses after the initial price drop from "new" to "pre-owned", are keeping their price stable at about 2/3 of "new" for years and years on. Do you need examples? Scan eBay for "Canon 70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM", or I can show you a million of examples more if you wish.

Good pro-grade lenses first stay with you for decades(!) and then don't lose their value (if not physically damaged).

Camera bodies are disposables, and the cheaper the body, the faster it loses its value and "sellability". So the mid-level X-T20 in 3 years will still be pretty "sellable" and any of entry-level bodies... I doubt. My old beloved Canon 20D now costs virtually nothing, I guess.

So if you can afford XC 16-50 + X-T20, I suggest you go for it. One more addition: low-light performance. X-T20 performs much better in low light up to ISO 12800 due to X-Trans III sensor. Why this is critical, I wrote in a different forum a while ago.
It's possible It's hard for me to tell without actually trying it. I probably need to find a store with lens for checking and see for myself.
Bravo! Go for it!
Or maybe find a review that demonstrate the difference on focal length between this and something like 15-45.
No, you won't, I guess. Look, while scanning the galleries of samples taken by 15-45, how many photos of moving subjects in low light did you see, if any? ;) that's because nobody wants to publish bad samples ;) most samples from 15-45 are of static objects at wider angles. But you intend to photograph your baby and not landscapes, correct?

15-45 is too short for portraiture. That extra 5mm at the longer zoom end mean much.
The only caveat is hiking
Keeping your camera in a pouch is a good idea, but I am using the shoulder strap like this, and a light pouch on the belt but 90% of the time the camera just hangs freely aside of the pouch, I just take it at any moment and take a photo.
It's probably means now I have to carry the camera in my bag,
No, it does not mean that.
Regrading lens. I might be able to squeeze not Kit lens if I'l buy the Lens online from Amazon.
Don't do this now. Get a better starter kit instead.
I prefer to buy the Body here, to get warranty for issues, but is there any problem with buying Lens from Amazon?
For me, I didn't have any problems. Just check do they ship to your country or not (not every seller do).
do lens have Warranty?
AFAIK yes they do but you can check yourself. I am completely sure that Amazon provides you with the seller's warranty but I never asked about manufacturer's warranty for goods purchased from Amazon.
do they break often?
No. If the lens is good from the factory, then 99% it will stay for years (or until you drop it on the stones or in the water, but many lightweight lenses with WR survive even that).
Or once I tested it home and everything is fine I'm all set?
I think yes, and if it is not, you have some 14 days(?) to decide on return or replacement.
Also, should my focus be on Quality LENS or CAMERA? I'm still thinking on it, but I can go on XT-100 for example with XF 18-55 lines . OR, I can go for XT20 or E3 with XC lines. Which will have a better impact on quality?
Again and again and again: think the combo lens+body. XC 16-50 on the X-T20 seems to be a reasonable tradeoff inside your budget. XF 18-55 + X-T20 could be the kit for many years ahead (and still sellable afterward) but...
And lastly:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4296504

Probably my un-trained eye, but pictures looks decent. People mentioned quality of the lens are good, it just the PZ that bother most.
Show me please pictures of moving subjects in the low light there, taken at the longer end of the zoom; I don't see any (do you wonder, why?)
Thanks again!
 
Yes and no. Often times the shutter speeds of video are slower which means the shot may be too blurry to be usable. If you speed the shutter up the video may look too staccato. Also video uses a purely electronic shutter, which can be susceptible to rolling shutter (straight vertical lines look tilted). While annoying in video it's unacceptable in stills. For something with a relatively slow abd static subject you can get away with pulling 4k frames (about 8.8 megapixels).
So it's either use a normal shutter speed and MAYBE i'll be able to get non blurry picture. Or speed up the shutter and the video will look a bit strange.
Essentially yes. The ideal shutter speed is 1 / (FL * 2) or whatever is close. For 24p we shoot 1/50, for 30 use 1/60, etc. Your camera will try to use these speeds if it can. In bright light it will stop down the lens before speeding up the shutter. You can exceed those shutter speeds but not dramatically otherwise movement begins to look robotic.

Here's a more detailed explanation: https://www.polarprofilters.com/blogs/polarpro/how-shutter-speed-affects-video
Seems like in those 'Duel moment' where I want to both take pictures and video, I better use the Camera to take pictures and perhaps ask my wife to take the video with the smart phone...

Thanks!
When I'm not carrying both cameras this is what I've done. Any camcorder with a 1/2.3" sensor will take video with IQ that isn't better than a high end smartphone. Depends on whether the photos or video is more important. For example at a recent indoor surprise party I had only my A7iii and 35/2.8 lens. When the guest of honor arrived I used my a7iii to shoot video of the reaction and had my wife use my Pixel 2 to snap photos. In this instance I'd rather have clean noiseless video than stills.
 

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