X-T2's unreliable AF is driving me CRAZY! HELP!

Canadianguy · Jul 21, 2017

So the image looks in focus on the EVF but is out of focus after you take the shot? That makes no sense for a mirrorless camera.

Did you zoom in on the subject when using the EVF for focusing?

Alboats said:
abelits said:

Alboats said:

As an experiment, i tried manual focus with focus peaking to see if that would make a difference. Nailed the focus as per the focus peaking (eyes/face were peaking), but the resultant image was out of focus. In fact the wall behind the subject was tack sharp.

Click to expand...

That just does not happen. To achieve this, the lens has to physically move after focusing and before the picture is taken.

Click to expand...

Well trust me, it is happening! That's why I'm leaning towards a faulty lens as the cause, it's as if the lens is tricking the focus system into believe it has focus, when in reality the focus is set 2-3 feet behind the subject. That would explain why the camera focus points AND lens peaks are reporting focus but the focus actually lies significantly behind the intended focus point.

For this to be user error, I'd need to be be moving by 2 or 3 feet after confirming focus to get results I'm getting....and in fact, if I'm moving after locking focus, the same result would show with the 56mm but it doesn't.

Trust me, its not camera movement after focus lock...

baobob · Jul 21, 2017

I agree I tested all size of focus point

Tje only issue I noticed is the wrong distance scale with a perfect focus in AFS checked with the AF MF option at 18mm with both 18-135 and 18-55

baobob · Jul 21, 2017

same issue than with the 18mm indoors at 2m indicates infinity !!! but AF absolutely correct checked with focus peaking

I never used the distance scale before this thread appeared so never noticed this inconsistency between actual focus and distance showned in the EVF

It has nothing to do with DOF it has to do most probably with a bad synchro between the fire wire system and the estimation of distance

Nevertheles on a high end product this issue is a stain IMHO

shakenmartini · Jul 21, 2017

Alboats said:
MrSee said:

Alboats said:

You are a professional wedding photographer, so this is your living. I wouldn't wait another day. I would take them back right away.

Click to expand...

If you can't use the cameras and use the functions that are available then IMHO something is wrong with the bodies.

--
Jim from Ontario Canada

Click to expand...

I think it's deffo the lens....both bodies exhibit the same behaviour with he 23mm, but with the 56mm they're fine.

There have been a few 23 mm lenses reported to have this issue. It is a connection issue with the body.

Send the lens in for repair or replacement.

I personally would just send it back to the retailer and buy a different copy.

Cliff Fujii · Jul 21, 2017

Alboats said:
KwhyChang said:

I have the X-T20 and I am thinking it may be a lens issue. I bought a used 35/2 with visible signs of wear for $219 and it seemed like it missed a number of indoor shots so I returned it. I thought that price was too good to be true and I found out why. Just got another one used but this one is far better with all of my shots in or outdoors and very fast to focus.

I got a used 18-55 too, but it has only missed a few out of many many shots.

I have missed far more with my Canon gear and uncalibrated lenses that is for sure.

My 16/1.4 and 23/1.4 are simply stellar on the X-T20!

Click to expand...

abelits · Jul 21, 2017

Alboats said:
abelits said:

Alboats said:

As an experiment, i tried manual focus with focus peaking to see if that would make a difference. Nailed the focus as per the focus peaking (eyes/face were peaking), but the resultant image was out of focus. In fact the wall behind the subject was tack sharp.

Click to expand...

That just does not happen. To achieve this, the lens has to physically move after focusing and before the picture is taken.

Click to expand...

Well trust me, it is happening! That's why I'm leaning towards a faulty lens as the cause, it's as if the lens is tricking the focus system into believe it has focus, when in reality the focus is set 2-3 feet behind the subject.

Not possible. There is no "system" to "trick", focus is measured on the actual sensor. If you enable magnification and disable/enable peaking without moving the focus ring, you can verify that peaking works properly.

Alboats said:
Trust me, its not camera movement after focus lock...

Either the camera moves relative to the object or the lens somehow moves relative to the sensor.

KalleAnka · Jul 21, 2017

Alboats said:
rlx said:

Alboats said:

As an experiment, i tried manual focus with focus peaking to see if that would make a difference. Nailed the focus as per the focus peaking (eyes/face were peaking), but the resultant image was out of focus. In fact the wall behind the subject was tack sharp.

Click to expand...

I know it may sound a bit odd but all that is peaking is not in focus. One needs to find the focus ring position where the focus area (say one eye) starts peaking and the position where it stops peaking and go for the mid position between the two. Better use magnification. It is sometimes better to turn-off peaking and just use magnification if the subject has a contrasty texture such as rust or a pattern.

If that does not work, then the lens is playing tricks.

Click to expand...

Yup, that's what I did....rolling back and forth through the peaks, but it still didn't work. It;s as if the lens/focus peaks are somehow reporting focus when in fact it's focused behind the subject....has to be a faulty lens in my mind as the camera bodies work fine with other lenses.

You seem to know what you're doing so I'd say faulty lens or camera. No idea of which though. I have a P2, so same focus system. With fast lenses focus accuracy is just dead on. In AF-S with still subjects it is way better than anything I could dream of with my old Canon 5D3. That's how it should be.

geraldgPP · Jul 21, 2017

I was wondering if it wouldn't be better to check focus tests at a smaller aperture, manual focus and not placing the subject at the corners. Your posted samples are showing fringing as well as being totally out of focus. It can't be right. Hope you solve the problem.

Pankrac · Jul 21, 2017

A lot about this here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/59776315

arrrr · Jan 6, 2018

Any solution for the problem?

I'm having the same issue, firmware 3.X fixed nothing, my local fuji office tells me, that my camera is okay and there is nothing to fix (lol)

Greg7579 · Jan 6, 2018

Oh My..... One of the 5 worst threads in Board history that thankfully died a slow death half a year ago just got bumped by someone with a supposedly similar problem.....

Right.

Ughhhhhh. OK..... Whatever.....

myfujilife · Jan 6, 2018

Alboats said:
Duri, as mentioned on my original post, focus mode is on AF-S, the setting for focus release/priority makes no difference as the camera confirms focus lock every time.

as for focus point size, I've tried various focus point sizes, all produce the same results. Stupidly out of focus images.

I suspect it’s an issue with the body if it’s occuring on both lenses. I have no issues with sports and I’m taking stuff that challenges the AF

Jerry-astro · Jan 6, 2018

arrrr said:
Any solution for the problem?

I'm having the same issue, firmware 3.X fixed nothing, my local fuji office tells me, that my camera is okay and there is nothing to fix (lol)

OK, instead of resurrecting a dead thread, please start a new one and lay out your specific issues in detail. Provide examples if possible.

I'm locking this thread.

Search

X-T2's unreliable AF is driving me CRAZY! HELP!

Canadianguy

Senior Member

baobob

Forum Pro

baobob

Forum Pro

shakenmartini

Forum Enthusiast

Cliff Fujii

Veteran Member

abelits

Leading Member

KalleAnka

Well-known member

geraldgPP

Senior Member

Pankrac

Well-known member

arrrr

Active member

Greg7579

Forum Pro

myfujilife

Guest

Jerry-astro

Forum Pro

Similar threads

Keyboard shortcuts