I am looking for help choosing a new camera.

Google Beginner Photography. You will find more information than you can read in a year. Some of it is very good.

garykohs said:

1. close proximity to the subject relative to the background.

Click to expand...

On the homecoming picture, if you were to stand much farther and zoom in to get the same subject size, you'd get a more pronounced background blur feeling though, due to less elements of the background being in the frame because of the change in perspective, so take that rule within its context OP.

Wow, did not expect this many posts. I will try to answer what I can remember here. I don't mind a larger camera but don't want a heavy bag of junk to carry, so either a small camera with a few lenses or one larger camera with one lens. Something like that. I managed to get ahold of my classmate with the Fuji and he told me to look at an Fz-1000? Or a Lx-100? I looked them up and it was a bit confusing. He also told me to get stabilized stuff so I did some research and that sounds useful. But does anybody know are the two cameras above stabilized? Is one better than the other? The reason I was told to not get a camera and lenses was so I wasn't locked into any brand while I'm so new. Makes sense. I also looked on amazon and these two are way less than my budget which is great. I would love to hear what you guys think about these. Thank you to everybody for so much help.

Jonathan Brady said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

For 50+ years dSLR has been considered the best (ONLY) option for quality photography if you wanted to change lenses. So MOST photographers still recommend them.

BUT technology has changed and "mirrorless" cameras are now the best option, (especially for beginners who want to learn), unless you are doing action/SPORTS photography, (and even there mirrorless is now competitive.

Click to expand...

Mirrorless isn't a bad option, but that doesn't mean it's the best option. Even for beginners.

Click to expand...

I vehemently disagree. The mirrorless allowed a "beginner" to get direct visual feedback as he is adjusting either manual exposure or EC (in auto). He can use "zebras" BEFORE EXPOSURE to optimize IQ via ETTR for better IQ, (and "blinkies" after exposure).

He can select "instant review" to keep is image retained so he can IMMEDIATELY determine if his exposure/pose/smile/eyes are optimum and RESHOT if necessary before subject move.

And with EVF, can do all this in SUNLIGHT when (dSLR) chimping is often impossible.

Jonathan Brady said:

Jonathan Brady said:

NEW "sensor" technology also has made smaller sensors acceptable and they enable "super-zooms" where you no longer need interchangeable lenses.

So selecting a camera has MANY more options than before. (Including "bridge" cameras which are advanced where most are now faster and have more features than a DSLR can have because of the limitations of the 60+ year mirror.)

Click to expand...

Don't forget OP mentioned background blur. Obtaining that with a bridge camera is a much more difficult endeavor than with a DSLR, and it's going to be a much more rare occurrence.

Click to expand...

Well, Full-Frame is his best option for that purpose.

BUT ... with a smaller-sensor, you can somewhat create DOF background with PP, (so smaller sensors CAN have an ADVANTAGE since shallow is often a Full-Frame PROBLEM, (that can't be resolved in PP).

Jonathan Brady said:

Jonathan Brady said:

But learning photography still has two very-different facets -- technical and art.

You can (and must) "learn" the technical. But the "art" is somewhat within you and some find it more difficult to learn. The "art" is the most important, and more important than the camera you select.

So I recommend you start with a mirrorless, (much easier to learn "exposure").

Click to expand...

Exposure is easy to learn, especially in the digital age. For instance, I made this for my wife who was dead set against learning about exposure and she picked it up REALLY fast...



*note - she was using a crop sensor camera and doesn't have particularly great hand-holding ability, hence the recommendation for 2x shutter speed without IS.

Click to expand...

I LIKE the chart, but IMHO, the chart would be much easier to read (and UNDERSTAND), if you had limited it to "FULL" stops.

Jonathan Brady said:

Jonathan Brady said:

You might want to look at a Panasonic FZ-1000. It has more features than you need but you can learn to use them and be MORE CREATIVE than you can be with a dSLR.

Click to expand...

Again... small sensor = not NEARLY the background blur ability as a DSLR and although it's a respectable aperture range for a lens, when combined with a small sensor it just won't achieve what I believe the OP is looking for.

Click to expand...

I said before that smaller sensors can be an ADVANTAGE because narrow DOF can be imitated via PP whereas shallow DOF can be widened afterwards.

Jonathan Brady said:

Funny that earlier you said this:

Jonathan Brady said:

The "art" is the most important, and more important than the camera you select.

Click to expand...

But then also say this:

Jonathan Brady said:

It has more features than you need but you can learn to use them and be MORE CREATIVE than you can be with a dSLR.

Click to expand...

So on the one hand you say that "art" is within you, not the camera, then you say (incorrectly, IMO) that an FZ-1000 has more features so the photographer can be more artistic. Again, the OP was interested in creating pictures with background blur as that seems like his (current) definition of "art" and you just GREATLY hindered it if he chooses to follow your suggestion.

Click to expand...

On the FZ-1000 I was meaning the FULLY-articulated LCD for shooting low, (ground level), or held HIGH overhead, (or off to the side -- or even "selfies" if he is into that).

It also has a LEAF shutter for unlimited flash "sync" speed. I very often shoot with flash @ 1/4000sec, (albeit at short range ... like flowers).

And I like it's HandHeld NIGHT-shot and Panoramic, (also auto-Bracketing & auto-HDR, multiple exposures, intervalometer, etc.).

And don't forget 4K-video w/ FRAME-GRAB for a new paradigm in action "timing".

So you CAN get more "creative" with it, (and more easily enlarge your "artistic" abilities than a dSLR allows).

Also remember that its "macro" focusing lens, (25mm to 400mm equiv) would require 3 separate lenses to duplicate, (and digital zoom to 3200mm that can be HANDHELD @ 1/100sec with its 5-axis Image Stabilization).

It focuses faster, and has a higher burst (frame) rate, than any dSLR. (dSLR Image Stabilization is limited to 2-axis)

Brian Isaman said:

Wow, did not expect this many posts. I will try to answer what I can remember here. I don't mind a larger camera but don't want a heavy bag of junk to carry, so either a small camera with a few lenses or one larger camera with one lens. Something like that. I managed to get ahold of my classmate with the Fuji and he told me to look at an Fz-1000? Or a Lx-100? I looked them up and it was a bit confusing. He also told me to get stabilized stuff so I did some research and that sounds useful. But does anybody know are the two cameras above stabilized? Is one better than the other? The reason I was told to not get a camera and lenses was so I wasn't locked into any brand while I'm so new. Makes sense. I also looked on amazon and these two are way less than my budget which is great. I would love to hear what you guys think about these. Thank you to everybody for so much help.

Click to expand...

YES ... they both have 5-axis Image Stabilization, (compared to only 2-axis possible via Canon/Nikon in-lens).

The LX-100 has a very limited zoom range, and no built-in flash.

I recommend the FZ-1000, built-in flash and macro-focusing 25mm to 400mm, (and 3200mm via digital zoom -- albeit w/ smaller file size).

Brian Isaman said:

Wow, did not expect this many posts. I will try to answer what I can remember here. I don't mind a larger camera but don't want a heavy bag of junk to carry, so either a small camera with a few lenses or one larger camera with one lens. Something like that. I managed to get ahold of my classmate with the Fuji and he told me to look at an Fz-1000? Or a Lx-100?

Click to expand...

There is a big difference in the sizes of the LX-100 and FZ-1000. Here's a link that illustrates the size difference:

FZ1000 verses LX100 size comparison

Brian Isaman said:

I looked them up and it was a bit confusing. He also told me to get stabilized stuff so I did some research and that sounds useful. But does anybody know are the two cameras above stabilized?

Click to expand...

Yes, both have optical image stabilization which means the stabilizer is built into the lens, not the body. Either in body or in lens stabilization won't matter since both are fixed lens cameras. (With interchangeable lens cameras, having the stabilization in the body means any lens will benefit from the in-body image stabilization.)

Brian Isaman said:

Is one better than the other?

Click to expand...

The LX100 is small compared to the FZ1000.

It has a larger four-thirds sensor while the FZ1000 has a smaller 1" sensor. Here's a relative comparison of the 1" sensor verses the Four-Thirds sensor sizes.


Image from dpreview.

The maximum apertures of the LX100's lens of f/1.7 - f/2.8 are exceptionally good compared to the FZ1000's maximum apertures of f/2.8 - f/4.0. So the LX100 with the larger sensor and larger aperture lens will have better low-light capability.

But the FZ1000 has to have the smaller maximum apertures because it is designed with 16x optical zoom. The LX100 has a small optical zoom range of 3.1x.

The LX100 does not have a built-in flash so you would have to carry an external flash and mount it in the hot shoe when needed. The FZ1000 does have a built-in flash that pops up to make it a bit higher and an external flash can be mounted on it as well. .... Regarding external flash, if you want a powerful flash for bounce or far reaching direct flash, then one would work very well with the FZ1000 but be quite top heavy and awkward on a LX100.

Brian Isaman said:

The reason I was told to not get a camera and lenses was so I wasn't locked into any brand while I'm so new. Makes sense. I also looked on amazon and these two are way less than my budget which is great. I would love to hear what you guys think about these. Thank you to everybody for so much help.

Click to expand...

Compare the LX100 to the FZ1000 by looking at the top of the depreview webpage. In the menu bar, click on CAMERAS > PANASONIC. Then enter the model number in the "Filter" text box at the top. Then click on camera model that's found. Then click on "Specs" and a list of the specifications for that model will display. Compare the specs of the two cameras.

Sky

As a Sony guy, I would usually recommend A Sony A7711 with the 16-50/f2.8 and perhaps a used 70-300G, you should be close to your budget, could be a bit more. However a friend of mine is in the same boat as you, not sure what to get. I suggested a Panasonic FZ300 or the FZ1000. He does a lot of hunting and back backing in the Florida swamps, he needs something not too heavy and easy to carry. The FZ300 gives you a fast 25-600mm/f2.8 lens, the FZ1000 gives you a 25-400mm lens and a larger sensor. Both have good DPReviews. I am buying one or the other, but can't decide which one I want. Here is a link to one of my Fliker followers, uses a FZ200, the 300 should be a much improved camera. hope the link works

A lot depends on what you anticipate using the camera for. For something lightweight and versatile I would recommend a mirrorless with a compact kit lens and start there. I wouldn't spend more than about $500 at this point, as very capable offerings from Sony, Fuji, Olympus, Panasonic can be had at or below that price point.

Start out with the kit zoom lens and experiment with different settings and focal length, to find your personal shooting style and what you like to shoot.

Once you have a feel for what you like, add gear that suits your style. For example, if you find yourself regularly shooting near a particular focal length, you may want to invest in a prime lens with that focal length to achieve better image quality. If you regularly feel that you can't quite get tight enough on subjects you may want to invest in a telephoto zoom lens. If you find you like to shoot flowers, insects, detailed textures, etc you may want to invest in a nice macro lens. If you find the kit lens generally suits your needs, then you've saved $1000 that you put towards something else (maybe a trip to a picturesque location).

I personally have a Sony NEX-6 and find it to be a great camera for someone starting out. I bought it because it is compact and versatile. My wife who has no interest in photography beyond simply capturing the moment, can throw it in her purse or diaper bag, and use the kit lens and automatic settings and get decent results. Meanwhile, I can use the manual settings and the old manual focus lenses I have from my days shooting film, and can be as technical and deliberate as I want. I would highly recommend the NEX-6, A5100, or A6000. NEX-6 if you like a viewfinder, A6000 if you think you might be shooting some fast action, A5100 if you prefer the smartphone like experience of a touchscreen.

My personal experience is limited to the Sony line, but if you like the above philosophy, perhaps others can provide similar recommendations within the other brands.

Cheers and happy shooting!

bcmills

Brian Isaman said:

Hello this is my first time on this website. I am looking for some help with camera information. I have mostly used my smart phone up till this point and while it's ok, I would say it would get more use if it were of better quality. I would like to create more professional photos with the blurry background and such and I assume this is a good place to ask about that.
I don't have too much experience with lenses and such so I am open to any and all suggestions. I do have a classmate who uses a Fuji for our yearbooks and his photos look very nice, although I have no idea which Fuji it is. I have about $1500 US total to spend for now and will likely trickle money into this as I go. I apologize if this is not the right section of the forum to post this.

Brian.

Click to expand...

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

apiron said:

garykohs said:

1. close proximity to the subject relative to the background.

Click to expand...

On the homecoming picture, if you were to stand much farther and zoom in to get the same subject size, you'd get a more pronounced background blur feeling though, due to less elements of the background being in the frame because of the change in perspective, so take that rule within its context OP.

Click to expand...

I agree. But you can't always do that.

noflashplease said:

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

Click to expand...

I can't "argue" with much of what you said. You certainly want "full" controls, and the more quickly/visibly available the better, (and usually not available at all on "point-&-shoots").

But a beginner still must UNDERSTAND them, (starting with EXPOSURE COMPENSATION -- in "auto" modes -- starting w/ "program" and then moving into shutter-priority and then aperture-priority auto).

The direct/instant VISUAL FEEDBACK available via EVF can make what is often very a confusing and lengthily learning/understanding process almost immediate. (especially using "zebras" not available via dSLR's)

After using them, I could never now do without a FULLY-articulated LCD as I now often shoot from ground or held "high" overhead that I could never do before.

And in the case of the FZ-1000, I often shoot w/ flash @ 1/4000sec, (w/out HSS).

And it is FUN to use (digital-zoom) 3200mm to "see" (and photograph) things I can't see with my eye.

PhotoTeach2 said:

noflashplease said:

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

Click to expand...

I can't "argue" with much of what you said. You certainly want "full" controls, and the more quickly/visibly available the better, (and usually not available at all on "point-&-shoots").

But a beginner still must LEARN TO USE them, (starting with EXPOSURE COMPENSATION -- in "auto" modes -- starting w/ "program" and then moving into shutter-priority and then aperture-priority auto).

The direct/instant VISUAL FEEDBACK available via EVF can make what is often very a confusing and lengthily learning/understanding process almost immediate. (especially using "zebras" not available via dSLR's)

After using them, I could never now do without a FULLY-articulated LCD as I now often shoot from ground or held "high" overhead that I could never do before.

And in the case of the FZ-1000, I often shoot w/ flash @ 1/4000sec.

Click to expand...

Yes, an ARTICULATED LCD is a BIG, BIG PLUS!!!!!!!

Easily accessible FULL MANUAL CONTROLS are also important.

A FAST LIGHTWEIGHT PRIME would be useful as well.

EVFs are getting smarter by the minute. The days when even cars have only EVFs might be closer than we think!

buybuybuy said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

noflashplease said:

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

Click to expand...

I can't "argue" with much of what you said. You certainly want "full" controls, and the more quickly/visibly available the better, (and usually not available at all on "point-&-shoots").

But a beginner still must LEARN TO USE them, (starting with EXPOSURE COMPENSATION -- in "auto" modes -- starting w/ "program" and then moving into shutter-priority and then aperture-priority auto).

The direct/instant VISUAL FEEDBACK available via EVF can make what is often very a confusing and lengthily learning/understanding process almost immediate. (especially using "zebras" not available via dSLR's)

After using them, I could never now do without a FULLY-articulated LCD as I now often shoot from ground or held "high" overhead that I could never do before.

And in the case of the FZ-1000, I often shoot w/ flash @ 1/4000sec.

Click to expand...

Yes, an ARTICULATED LCD is a BIG, BIG PLUS!!!!!!!

Easily accessible FULL MANUAL CONTROLS are also important.

A FAST LIGHTWEIGHT PRIME would be useful as well.

EVFs are getting smarter by the minute. The days when even cars have only EVFs might be closer than we think!

Click to expand...

One of my cars has 360 degree surround cameras already. Its not a luxury model. It is a mid range Nissan Qashqai.

As far as cameras go, a nice touchscreen should not be underestimated in its usefulness, especially if it can be used to move the focus point even when composing through the EVF.

All these features are likely to be confusing to the new photographer, but if they are on his new camera as standard, he will soon start using at least some of them. Nobody uses all a camera's features, at least not regularly, but the important thing is that the user is happy with what features the camera does have and doesn't miss things that are missing.

Aberaeron said:

buybuybuy said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

noflashplease said:

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

Click to expand...

I can't "argue" with much of what you said. You certainly want "full" controls, and the more quickly/visibly available the better, (and usually not available at all on "point-&-shoots").

But a beginner still must LEARN TO USE them, (starting with EXPOSURE COMPENSATION -- in "auto" modes -- starting w/ "program" and then moving into shutter-priority and then aperture-priority auto).

The direct/instant VISUAL FEEDBACK available via EVF can make what is often very a confusing and lengthily learning/understanding process almost immediate. (especially using "zebras" not available via dSLR's)

After using them, I could never now do without a FULLY-articulated LCD as I now often shoot from ground or held "high" overhead that I could never do before.

And in the case of the FZ-1000, I often shoot w/ flash @ 1/4000sec.

Click to expand...

Yes, an ARTICULATED LCD is a BIG, BIG PLUS!!!!!!!

Easily accessible FULL MANUAL CONTROLS are also important.

A FAST LIGHTWEIGHT PRIME would be useful as well.

EVFs are getting smarter by the minute. The days when even cars have only EVFs might be closer than we think!

Click to expand...

One of my cars has 360 degree surround cameras already. Its not a luxury model. It is a mid range Nissan Qashqai.

As far as cameras go, a nice touchscreen should not be underestimated in its usefulness, especially if it can be used to move the focus point even when composing through the EVF.

All these features are likely to be confusing to the new photographer, but if they are on his new camera as standard, he will soon start using at least some of them. Nobody uses all a camera's features, at least not regularly, but the important thing is that the user is happy with what features the camera does have and doesn't miss things that are missing.

Click to expand...

Well-stated!

To that end, the OP should make a list of features he/she likes as well as those he/she might anticipate "growing into," and then narrow the list of contenders based on that.

buybuybuy said:

PhotoTeach2 said:

noflashplease said:

Get a camera with full controls if you're actually interested in learning. Even a cheap sub-$300 Pentax K-50 will allow you sufficient manual controls to learn as much about photography as if bought a professional camera. A refurbished $489 Nikon D7100 might also be something to think about. Avoid all point-and-shoot cameras, bridge cameras, Canon Rebels, low-end Nikon DSLRs and all trendy mirrorless cameras, as they typically aren't full featured or hide controls in menus that will discourage even the most determined learner. Don't be afraid of cheap prime lenses, such as any 50mm F/1.8 from Canon, Pentax or Nikon. You will be disappointed by most 18-55mm kit lenses as they don't offer wide enough apertures or long enough focal lengths for the "blurry backgrounds" that you're looking for.

Click to expand...

I can't "argue" with much of what you said. You certainly want "full" controls, and the more quickly/visibly available the better, (and usually not available at all on "point-&-shoots").

But a beginner still must LEARN TO USE them, (starting with EXPOSURE COMPENSATION -- in "auto" modes -- starting w/ "program" and then moving into shutter-priority and then aperture-priority auto).

The direct/instant VISUAL FEEDBACK available via EVF can make what is often very a confusing and lengthily learning/understanding process almost immediate. (especially using "zebras" not available via dSLR's)

After using them, I could never now do without a FULLY-articulated LCD as I now often shoot from ground or held "high" overhead that I could never do before.

And in the case of the FZ-1000, I often shoot w/ flash @ 1/4000sec.

Click to expand...

Yes, an ARTICULATED LCD is a BIG, BIG PLUS!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

But it really must be "fully" articulated to satisfy me. I don't really accept the new "tilting" as I often like angles that is not sufficient for. (and fully "reversible" is nice, I have indeed found myself using them for "selfies")

buybuybuy said:

Easily accessible FULL MANUAL CONTROLS are also important.

Click to expand...

Since most cameras do have "full manual" today, the key word here is ACCESSABLE .... unfortunately many do require "menus", (and EVERY camera is "different").

That is the main reason I stopped doing photo "workshops", EVERY camera was different and I was spending all my time "learning" someone else's camera and not able to spend enough time helping "everyone" learn composition and photo-techniques that would be applicable to all.

buybuybuy said:

A FAST LIGHTWEIGHT PRIME would be useful as well.

Click to expand...

But only to some people & applications, some may prefer a zoom, (especially a LONG zoom or UWA),

buybuybuy said:

EVFs are getting smarter by the minute. The days when even cars have only EVFs might be closer than we think!

Click to expand...

WOW .... that puts the OVF vs EVF argument in a new light. I have spent the last 5 years arguing for EVF, but "driving" via EVF seems scary.

(But do have to admit I prefer the BACK-UP CAMS to a mirror.)

You Tube is your friend. I'm not going to point you in any certain camera direction, however, if you just type in any subject dealing with camera selection, there will be a TON of videos advising you on what camera or cameras and why. Go to your local camera shop and talk to a rep there. They all have in store demos that you can handle.

Camera clubs can be good as well. Classes are good because you will find out from the very beginning what makes a snap shot and what makes an image. Good luck!!

David

No point buying something that does not satisfy you 6 months after purchase. Go down to your local camera shop and ask to look through the EVFs in some cameras and OVFs in some others.If you have a clear preference for one over the other that will eliminate a lot of cameras.

Compare sizes and feel, do you like traditional SLR style or range finder style body. Is a body and controls too small or too big or just right

Do you want a fixed lens or an ILC camera.

Do you plan on shooting fast moving subject matter. If you do you need very good auto focus system.

Is a weather resistant body and lenses important to you.

Research camera review sites (not blogger) that have unbiased reviews and when you have narrowed your choices read all the reviews.

CES (electronics show) is coming up. Wait and see if any major changes are coming as there is a lot of speculation right now. Your budget will easily get you started in 1 inch ,m4/3s, or APS-C mirrorless or DSLR. Your local store may have used equipment also which can be traded back in later.

Too many choices what a problem.

The problem is there is so much BIAS towards dSLR because they indeed have had a 50+ head-start advantage.

Mirrorless is relatively new, and were NOT "GOOD" when first released, but they are new equal in many ways to dSLR, and MUCH BETTER is many ways. (and GETTING BETTER EVERY DAY).

Even their advantage on "action" is not so longer true, (especially in the entry level dSLR's).

AND ... I have to admit that OVF's "look" better in normal light, (when they are most often compared to EVF)

BUT ... it goes beyond just "look" when they are usable in "dark/low" light that OVF's become useless, AND they provide so much more INFORMATION that is CUSTOMIZABLE, (grid-lines, auto-level, histogram and "zebras" BEFORE exposure, etc.).

The FACT is that mirrorless is indeed the FUTURE ... dSLR's have simply gone as far as they with their limitations imposed by the mirror, (and Focal-Plane shutter).

There are people who cannot use EVF ,for them it is OVF or none.

rxbot said:

There are people who cannot use EVF ,for them it is OVF or none.

Click to expand...

What's wrong with them? Are they handicapped or just old before their time?