Whenever a new camera comes out there seems to be a firestorm around one technical problem or another. Canon shooters might recall the one around the 1DsMkII having focus problems. So, the E-M1 seems to have a number of people who say their cameras are experiencing "shutter shock"--which I never heard of before last week. I'm a bit skeptical but I'd still like to know if my new E-M1 has this problem. So, could someone please post what they think would be the ideal way to test for this malady? I'd be very grateful and will report back my results.
Thanks.
Here's how to do it: ;-)
http://www.falklumo.com/lumolabs/articles/k7shutter/index.html
For a somewhat simplified version, make sure you have a good test target such as this one (this is a 100 percent crop).
The key is the print-screen structure, whose appearance and disappearance will tell you clearly and quickly how much blur there is. And you really need that since the results in hand-held shooting will vary quite a shot-to-shot basis so that you need pretty large samples in order to draw any clear conclusions.
For those who have a camera with an electronic shutter, like many recent Panasonics, the self-evident solution is to shoot at the same shutter speed with the mechanical versus the electronic shutter and see what difference that makes. A good place to start with regard to shutter speed is at 1/125 since the problem is known to be worst at roughly that point.
For the E-M1, which doesn't have an electronic shutter, it's a good idea to use a lens that you should normally be able to hand-hold at 1/125, e.g., with an FL of 40, 45 or 50. If you see significantly worse results at 1/125 (or thereabout) than you do if you go to faster speeds as well as if you go to lower (with IBIS or OIS on).
Note that the impact of shutter shock is lens-dependent on several grounds. Like with any other source of camera shake, the problem gets worse with longer FLs. But the length and weight of the lens barrel may have an impact on top of that since a long and heavy barrel moves the point of gravity away from the shutter, increasing the likelihood that the shutter forms part of a moment arm. Why that matters is explained in the post I link to below, which additionally provideds some ideas about proper holding-techniques to minimize the impact of the shock:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51554589
The grip I talk about in that post is just one version of the same theme. If the lens is short and light, try supporting the camera via the body only, not the lens, and avoid using much in the way of head support. If the lens is longer and heavier, try supporting it close to the mount and use only gentle head support.
