My HS50 EXR – My Current Settings ...

• Program AE (P) – I use this mode primarily as it allows the shutter and/or aperture to 'float', dependent upon the lighting conditions. Occasionally, I also use A (Aperture Priority), S (Shutter Priority), M (Manual) modes if the occasion warrants.

• ISO – Setting the ISO to 1600 (Auto) allows the ISO to 'float' anywhere between ISO 100 and ISO 1600, dependent on lighting conditions. Even an image at ISO 1600 is very usable, particularly if you do a little post process (PP). The good news is the camera will always attempt to select the lowest ISO. However, if you want the very best image quality (IQ) for a particular scene, then you should set the ISO to suit. For example, if I were shooting landscapes I would be using a tripod and have the ISO set to ISO 100.

• Image Size – Using L (large) size gives the most detail. Period. With the HS30/HS50 EXR there is a loss of colour acuity, some colour bleed and also less detail when shooting at M (medium size) and this becomes far more pronounced if you use a DR (dynamic range) setting above DR 100%. I have not seen this effect on the F200 EXR camera nor the X-E1, both of which I also own, and it may not be evident on other EXR cameras. I also prefer 4:3 as I have a standard set of printing sizes I use and will crop/resize in post process, if desired. For example, my normal print size is 11 x 15.5 inches which is a ratio somewhere between 4:3 and 3:2. This allows a print on an A3 sheet, with some border for mat (passepartout) mounting, or on a 12 inch paper roll, again with some border.

• Image Quality – I often simply post process the Jpegs but also use Raw as required/desired, especially if I need to squeeze out a little more DR latitude. Also, keep in mind that the Raw file is not affected by settings such as DR, Sharpness, NR. These are all functions of the EXR engine for Jpeg. This is why I use Fine (Fine Jpeg) + Raw.

• Dynamic Range – I am currently using DR 100% but normally I would use DR 200%. With the HS50 EXR (and also HS30 EXR) using a setting above DR 100% causes some problems. Hopefully this issue may be resolved in a later firmware fix, as was the HS10 for its detail smearing, but at the time of writing (April 2013) the DR engine seems to have a flaw and so I am sticking with DR 100%.

• Film Simulation – Currently, I am using Standard (Provia) as it gives good latitude for adjustment in post processing. I have also seen excellent results from others using Velvia or Astia and typically I prefer using Astia. Astia is a good all round setting if you don't want to do any post processing. For me, for now, I will stay with Provia.

• White Balance – Leaving the camera set to WB Auto covers almost every lighting situation very competently and takes the guess work out of the setting. In many situations (for example my indoor market shots) I am shooting in a mixture of filtered sunlight, fluorescent light and tungsten light. It would be pointless setting the WB to one in favour of another. The camera selects the appropriate setting and selects it very well.

• Sharpness – Particularly if simply using the Jpegs, straight from the camera, then using a setting of +2 (Hard) gives plenty of clarity without introducing artifacts which could be viewed in a print at A3 size, or less. If you pixel peep you will see the effect. However, it is best to view images at print size, or better still view the printed result.

• Noise Reduction – When I first got the HS50 EXR, and also when I got the HS30 EXR, I commented that the sensor was noisier than I thought it should be for a camera in this day and age. To lessen noise, Fuji has allowed three NR settings. Low, Standard, High. However, an NR setting, other than Low, on these cameras can savage detail. Even set to Low there is still evidence of over enthusiastic NR, at times.

• Photometry – I find that an AE setting of Average is suitable for most situations. However, I will select Spot if I am wanting to expose for a particular subject, especially at telephoto.

• AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking. This is brilliant and who ever invented it should get a medal, or three !! With AF Tracking selected, you don't need to use the four way controller, you can simply half – press the shutter (and hold) and the focus will stay locked on the subject, whether the subject moves or you do. I also find that when using AF Tracking I never miss focus. Conversely, I have found that using Centre Weighted focus I have occasionally missed focus.

• Flash – I am not really a 'flash' person but I find that, typically, the output is a little 'hot' and I have it set to minus 2/3 to compensate. I also use Slow Synch if I want a little fill flash.

• Electronic Level – How did we ever live without it ? This is always on.

• IS Mode – Leaving it set to Shooting + Motion helps conserve battery power. Incidentally, I have found that I can get about 630 – 680 images on a charge. Keep in mind that I rarely use flash.

• EV Compensation – Typically, I would use minus 0.33 EV. However, and with the DR issue pointed out above, I am finding that minus 0.67 EV can be a 'set and forget' setting for all situations.

Lloydy said:

Lloydy wrote:

• Sharpness – Particularly if simply using the Jpegs, straight from the camera, then using a setting of +2 (Hard) gives plenty of clarity without introducing artifacts which could be viewed in a print at A3 size, or less. If you pixel peep you will see the effect. However, it is best to view images at print size, or better still view the printed result.

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Lloydy said:

• Noise Reduction – When I first got the HS50 EXR, and also when I got the HS30 EXR, I commented that the sensor was noisier than I thought it should be for a camera in this day and age. To lessen noise, Fuji has allowed three NR settings. Low, Standard, High. However, an NR setting, other than Low, on these cameras can savage detail. Even set to Low there is still evidence of over enthusiastic NR, at times.

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Danielepaolo said:

Danielepaolo wrote:

Danielepaolo said:

Lloydy wrote:

• Sharpness – Particularly if simply using the Jpegs, straight from the camera, then using a setting of +2 (Hard) gives plenty of clarity without introducing artifacts which could be viewed in a print at A3 size, or less. If you pixel peep you will see the effect. However, it is best to view images at print size, or better still view the printed result.

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In camera sharpening on the HS30 and now HS50 I feel is a big problem. The noise in images as pointed out below, even at base ISO, stands out and ruins photo. I am thinking images are much better sharpened in PP for these cameras. m

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Danielepaolo said:

Danielepaolo said:

• Noise Reduction – When I first got the HS50 EXR, and also when I got the HS30 EXR, I commented that the sensor was noisier than I thought it should be for a camera in this day and age. To lessen noise, Fuji has allowed three NR settings. Low, Standard, High. However, an NR setting, other than Low, on these cameras can savage detail. Even set to Low there is still evidence of over enthusiastic NR, at times.

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Lloydy said:

Lloydy wrote:

… Below is a list of reasons why I am using the particular settings I am using.

• AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking. This is brilliant and who ever invented it should get a medal, or three !! With AF Tracking selected, you don't need to use the four way controller, you can simply half – press the shutter (and hold) and the focus will stay locked on the subject, whether the subject moves or you do. I also find that when using AF Tracking I never miss focus. Conversely, I have found that using Centre Weighted focus I have occasionally missed focus.

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RayBani said:

RayBani wrote:

RayBani said:

Lloydy wrote:

… Below is a list of reasons why I am using the particular settings I am using.

• AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking. This is brilliant and who ever invented it should get a medal, or three !! With AF Tracking selected, you don't need to use the four way controller, you can simply half – press the shutter (and hold) and the focus will stay locked on the subject, whether the subject moves or you do. I also find that when using AF Tracking I never miss focus. Conversely, I have found that using Centre Weighted focus I have occasionally missed focus.

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Hey. does the HS50 have improved AF tracking or something. Im trying these settings on my HS30 and in AF tracking mode i have to press the D-pad left to lock the tracking and when i press shutter button halfway, it focuses on it and looses the target. So it kinda sucks. thx

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Lloydy said:

Lloydy wrote:

… I say my 'current' settings as I would not normally be using DR 100% on a Fuji EXR camera. My preferred setting is DR 200%. You can read as to why further on.

Anyway, after several weeks of using the H50 EXR and shooting some 1,500 images, I have settled on the settings below and I am now getting results which I am very happy with.

They should not be taken as a blanket rule for all, but they are suitable for the type of photography I do. Perhaps for you also.

Note – I also have the HS30 EXR and I find these settings are equally applicable for that.

Many of the 1,500 images I have shot were test images, as the HS50 EXR (and the HS30 EXR) was displaying some strange characteristics at certain settings. Notably, with DR set above DR 100% there is colour bleed, lack of colour acuity and accuracy, and also lack of fine detail.

You can see my DPR post about this here (Particularly Part 3 DR v DR) – My HS50 EXR - Getting The Best IQ

Having played around with a myriad of settings, I have settled on those listed below and in the two posts that follow this one is a list of reasons why I am using these particular settings.

If I don't mention a particular setting then it is either something I have turned off, or it is not relevant, for me. For example, Face Detection. I always have that off as it slows down the shoot time and, frankly, I just find it incredibly annoying.

The settings :

Program AE (P) Mode

ISO – 1600 (Auto)

Image Size – L (large) 4:3

Image Quality – Fine + Raw

Dynamic Range – DR 100%

Film Simulation – Standard (Provia)

White Balance – Auto

Sharpness – plus 2 (Hard)

Noise Reduction – minus 2 (Low)

Photometry – Average

AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking

Flash – minus 2/3

Electronic Level – On

IS Mode – Shooting + Motion

EV Compensation – minus 0.67 EV

Some of my results, to date. All are edited slightly - HS50 Edits Gallery

--
Dave

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CAcreeks said:

CAcreeks wrote:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

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CAcreeks said:

Following your posts is a bit like following Moses around the desert for 40 years, but the Red Sea has parted and HS50 owners can now cross behind you.

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CAcreeks said:

CAcreeks said:

Lloydy wrote:

… I say my 'current' settings as I would not normally be using DR 100% on a Fuji EXR camera. My preferred setting is DR 200%. You can read as to why further on.

Anyway, after several weeks of using the H50 EXR and shooting some 1,500 images, I have settled on the settings below and I am now getting results which I am very happy with.

They should not be taken as a blanket rule for all, but they are suitable for the type of photography I do. Perhaps for you also.

Note – I also have the HS30 EXR and I find these settings are equally applicable for that.

Many of the 1,500 images I have shot were test images, as the HS50 EXR (and the HS30 EXR) was displaying some strange characteristics at certain settings. Notably, with DR set above DR 100% there is colour bleed, lack of colour acuity and accuracy, and also lack of fine detail.

You can see my DPR post about this here (Particularly Part 3 DR v DR) – My HS50 EXR - Getting The Best IQ

Having played around with a myriad of settings, I have settled on those listed below and in the two posts that follow this one is a list of reasons why I am using these particular settings.

If I don't mention a particular setting then it is either something I have turned off, or it is not relevant, for me. For example, Face Detection. I always have that off as it slows down the shoot time and, frankly, I just find it incredibly annoying.

The settings :

Program AE (P) Mode

ISO – 1600 (Auto)

Image Size – L (large) 4:3

Image Quality – Fine + Raw

Dynamic Range – DR 100%

Film Simulation – Standard (Provia)

White Balance – Auto

Sharpness – plus 2 (Hard)

Noise Reduction – minus 2 (Low)

Photometry – Average

AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking

Flash – minus 2/3

Electronic Level – On

IS Mode – Shooting + Motion

EV Compensation – minus 0.67 EV

Some of my results, to date. All are edited slightly - HS50 Edits Gallery

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Lloydy said:

Lloydy wrote:

Lloydy said:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

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... No. These settings are primarily so I can get a very good SOOC Jpeg. I shoot Raw + Jpeg so that I can use the Raw if desired/required and if I were converting/processing the Raw I would use ACR/PS or the RFC EX.

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CAcreeks said:

CAcreeks wrote:

CAcreeks said:

Lloydy wrote:

CAcreeks said:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

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... No. These settings are primarily so I can get a very good SOOC Jpeg. I shoot Raw + Jpeg so that I can use the Raw if desired/required and if I were converting/processing the Raw I would use ACR/PS or the RFC EX.

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Thanks! That makes sense. Most Raw conversions seem like a waste of time, except when they aren't.

KimL has said that the HS50 antialiasing filter seems optimized for Large, not Medium size.

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Me Tarzan said:

Me Tarzan wrote:

Thanks for the detailed information, Dave. A lot of this could be useful to all photography [the basic fundamentals].

My settings will differ depending upon which camera is used, just as yours. Each of my cameras is very persnickety.

You have some very unique images you've taken from your area of the world with beautiful subjects and colors.

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m7svk said:

m7svk wrote:

Hello Lloydy,

thanks for very nice instructions for perfect setup on fuji hs50, done already few shots, and different is easily visible.

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m7svk said:

thanks again.

m7svk

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CAcreeks said:

CAcreeks wrote:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

Following your posts is a bit like following Moses around the desert for 40 years, but the Red Sea has parted and HS50 owners can now cross behind you.

CAcreeks said:

Lloydy wrote:

… I say my 'current' settings as I would not normally be using DR 100% on a Fuji EXR camera. My preferred setting is DR 200%. You can read as to why further on.

Anyway, after several weeks of using the H50 EXR and shooting some 1,500 images, I have settled on the settings below and I am now getting results which I am very happy with.

They should not be taken as a blanket rule for all, but they are suitable for the type of photography I do. Perhaps for you also.

Note – I also have the HS30 EXR and I find these settings are equally applicable for that.

Many of the 1,500 images I have shot were test images, as the HS50 EXR (and the HS30 EXR) was displaying some strange characteristics at certain settings. Notably, with DR set above DR 100% there is colour bleed, lack of colour acuity and accuracy, and also lack of fine detail.

You can see my DPR post about this here (Particularly Part 3 DR v DR) – My HS50 EXR - Getting The Best IQ

Having played around with a myriad of settings, I have settled on those listed below and in the two posts that follow this one is a list of reasons why I am using these particular settings.

If I don't mention a particular setting then it is either something I have turned off, or it is not relevant, for me. For example, Face Detection. I always have that off as it slows down the shoot time and, frankly, I just find it incredibly annoying.

The settings :

Program AE (P) Mode

ISO – 1600 (Auto)

Image Size – L (large) 4:3

Image Quality – Fine + Raw

Dynamic Range – DR 100%

Film Simulation – Standard (Provia)

White Balance – Auto

Sharpness – plus 2 (Hard)

Noise Reduction – minus 2 (Low)

Photometry – Average

AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking

Flash – minus 2/3

Electronic Level – On

IS Mode – Shooting + Motion

EV Compensation – minus 0.67 EV

Some of my results, to date. All are edited slightly - HS50 Edits Gallery

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Peter71951 said:

Peter71951 wrote:

I will certainly not follow Moses. If the HS50 could talk the camera would protest strongly against these settings.

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Peter71951 said:

Peter71951 wrote:

Peter71951 said:

CAcreeks wrote:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

Following your posts is a bit like following Moses around the desert for 40 years, but the Red Sea has parted and HS50 owners can now cross behind you.

Peter71951 said:

Lloydy wrote:

… I say my 'current' settings as I would not normally be using DR 100% on a Fuji EXR camera. My preferred setting is DR 200%. You can read as to why further on.

Anyway, after several weeks of using the H50 EXR and shooting some 1,500 images, I have settled on the settings below and I am now getting results which I am very happy with.

They should not be taken as a blanket rule for all, but they are suitable for the type of photography I do. Perhaps for you also.

Note – I also have the HS30 EXR and I find these settings are equally applicable for that.

Many of the 1,500 images I have shot were test images, as the HS50 EXR (and the HS30 EXR) was displaying some strange characteristics at certain settings. Notably, with DR set above DR 100% there is colour bleed, lack of colour acuity and accuracy, and also lack of fine detail.

You can see my DPR post about this here (Particularly Part 3 DR v DR) – My HS50 EXR - Getting The Best IQ

Having played around with a myriad of settings, I have settled on those listed below and in the two posts that follow this one is a list of reasons why I am using these particular settings.

If I don't mention a particular setting then it is either something I have turned off, or it is not relevant, for me. For example, Face Detection. I always have that off as it slows down the shoot time and, frankly, I just find it incredibly annoying.

The settings :

Program AE (P) Mode

ISO – 1600 (Auto)

Image Size – L (large) 4:3

Image Quality – Fine + Raw

Dynamic Range – DR 100%

Film Simulation – Standard (Provia)

White Balance – Auto

Sharpness – plus 2 (Hard)

Noise Reduction – minus 2 (Low)

Photometry – Average

AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking

Flash – minus 2/3

Electronic Level – On

IS Mode – Shooting + Motion

EV Compensation – minus 0.67 EV

Some of my results, to date. All are edited slightly - HS50 Edits Gallery

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Peter71951 said:

Peter71951 wrote:

Peter71951 said:

CAcreeks wrote:

Dave, I am glad you settled on your settings. Are these settings intended primarily for Raw development with Lightroom or whatever?

Following your posts is a bit like following Moses around the desert for 40 years, but the Red Sea has parted and HS50 owners can now cross behind you.

Peter71951 said:

Lloydy wrote:

… I say my 'current' settings as I would not normally be using DR 100% on a Fuji EXR camera. My preferred setting is DR 200%. You can read as to why further on.

Anyway, after several weeks of using the H50 EXR and shooting some 1,500 images, I have settled on the settings below and I am now getting results which I am very happy with.

They should not be taken as a blanket rule for all, but they are suitable for the type of photography I do. Perhaps for you also.

Note – I also have the HS30 EXR and I find these settings are equally applicable for that.

Many of the 1,500 images I have shot were test images, as the HS50 EXR (and the HS30 EXR) was displaying some strange characteristics at certain settings. Notably, with DR set above DR 100% there is colour bleed, lack of colour acuity and accuracy, and also lack of fine detail.

You can see my DPR post about this here (Particularly Part 3 DR v DR) – My HS50 EXR - Getting The Best IQ

Having played around with a myriad of settings, I have settled on those listed below and in the two posts that follow this one is a list of reasons why I am using these particular settings.

If I don't mention a particular setting then it is either something I have turned off, or it is not relevant, for me. For example, Face Detection. I always have that off as it slows down the shoot time and, frankly, I just find it incredibly annoying.

The settings :

Program AE (P) Mode

ISO – 1600 (Auto)

Image Size – L (large) 4:3

Image Quality – Fine + Raw

Dynamic Range – DR 100%

Film Simulation – Standard (Provia)

White Balance – Auto

Sharpness – plus 2 (Hard)

Noise Reduction – minus 2 (Low)

Photometry – Average

AF (Auto Focus) – AF Tracking

Flash – minus 2/3

Electronic Level – On

IS Mode – Shooting + Motion

EV Compensation – minus 0.67 EV

Some of my results, to date. All are edited slightly - HS50 Edits Gallery

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CAcreeks said:

CAcreeks wrote:

CAcreeks said:

Peter71951 wrote:

I will certainly not follow Moses. If the HS50 could talk the camera would protest strongly against these settings.

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Presumably you will worship the Golden Calf.

What religion was that?

Who knows. They had a lot of whacko religions in the middle east.

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