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The EXIF information seems to indicate that even greater negative
compensation was applied...?
Best regards,
Adam
51 AF points has nothing to do with raw performance and noise.And the complexity and density of the cam 3500 with its 51 AF points
may also be the reason for slightly worse raw performamce than the
simpler 9 point AF module in the Canon.
Looking at the D300 graphs only, I see almost no reason to ever shoot below ISO 800, since 800 has almost as low of noise as 200.
The D300 has four levels of NR - high, normal, low and off. Often it is said on the Canon forums that the D300 has NR which gives low noise but destroys detail. The setting "normal" is default and is a bit too much IMO. This is from IR:s review of the D300:I shoot with a Canon 40D but I'm curious about the noise performance
of the D300. From what I have seen online, it looks pretty darn good,
and even appears to have less noise than the Canon 5D (although not
as sharp) But for those who have experience with both the D300 and
the 40D, what are your findings? Are ISO 3200 images as usable as
those from the 40D? Is ISO 6400 usable? That's something I wish the
40D had...
my guess is there is some noise reduction at work, so you lose detailLooking at the D300 graphs only, I see almost no reason to ever shoot
below ISO 800, since 800 has almost as low of noise as 200.
Noise reduction starts at ISO 800 with any setting (Normal, Low, High). This is a good reason.Looking at the D300 graphs only, I see almost no reason to ever shoot
below ISO 800, since 800 has almost as low of noise as 200.
Actually, this is something that never really made sense to me both in theory and in practice. I thought that the point of ISO is that since any amplification is analog, there is zero probability of any digital quantization effects causing any additional noise when undergoing the general process of amplification. It is also operating at an earlier stage in the information flow, and as you might know, any time you process a signal, you are distorting it to some extent relative to the "original." Amplifying at the earlier analog stage won't have a chance to enhance any distortion done by the ADC or anything else artifact-producing that might lie in between.It does. You just shoot at ISO 1600, EC = -2 in raw and then bump theIs ISO 6400 usable? That's something I wish the
40D had...
exposure slider up 2 stops during conversion. ISO 3200 is already
implemented this way (but with EC = -1), which is why I don't suggest
starting with this as your base. You get a digital rather than analog
amplification of your sensor signal, which means a loss of 2 bits of
bit depth, but this is perfectly fine since (a) you're starting with
a 14-bit signal and (b) even 12 bits is overkill for capturing all
the actual information that's in the signal (at these ISO values,
anyway).
I think a much better way of simulating a high-ISO shot with a 40D
(and if you have the latest photshop cs3) and if you have a
relatively stationary object, would be to do the following.
Set your ISO as high as you can honestly go (1600),
and set to normal exposure (or better, shoot in manual).
Shoot an odd number of shots in rapid succession. I usually do 5.
Then, in photoshop cs3, load all the shots as separate layers,
align the layers,
convert them to a smart object,
go to the smart-object stacking mode and choose "median"
(which takes the median of the shots pixel-by-pixel),
and then flatten it back down to a single image.
Since the noise is random,
the median gets rid of much of the noise. And since you are computing
the median not over neighboring pixels but rather over the same pixel
on different shots, the result stays sharp. I've been able to take
some very low-noise dark or night shots of landscapes and buildings
this way, and they come out extremely sharp, even hand-held (thanks
to the photoshop align ability, and lens IS helps too). This is, by
the way, one of the big reasons fast cameras such as the 40D or D300
are so nice.
Of course, if your subject is moving this does not work.
I completely agree, which I have always been critical of with DPREVIEWS camera comparisons as they always use default settings. What amazes is how most reviewer simply unpack the test camera and take pictures, just like a professional would do huh?The sort of noise comparisons (charts or examples) at this and other
review sites seem more attuned to point and shoot cameras than to
high-end digital SLRs. If you don't need a high-throughput process
(if, for example, you're not a wedding or sports specialist who needs
to produce lots of jpg images), it's so easy to exceed the results
produced by the in-camera settings (e.g, with a batch process in
Capture NX) that it's hard to understand why you'd care what the
default settings produce; if you are a professional photographer who
needs to review and produce a large number of jpgs, I wonder if you'd
use the default settings, or even care what they are.
--I shoot with a Canon 40D but I'm curious about the noise performance
of the D300. From what I have seen online, it looks pretty darn good,
and even appears to have less noise than the Canon 5D (although not
as sharp) But for those who have experience with both the D300 and
the 40D, what are your findings? Are ISO 3200 images as usable as
those from the 40D? Is ISO 6400 usable? That's something I wish the
40D had...
Take care,
Jesse
---------------------------------------------
Images of China: http://www.shenzhenphotos.com
Photos for Charity: http://www.photogiving.com
the first is as you said: analog amplification does not introduce quantization noise (in digicams this can be seens as posterizing) while digital amplification (multiplication) does.Actually, this is something that never really made sense to me bothIt does. You just shoot at ISO 1600, EC = -2 in raw and then bump the
exposure slider up 2 stops during conversion. ISO 3200 is already
implemented this way (but with EC = -1), which is why I don't suggest
starting with this as your base. You get a digital rather than analog
amplification of your sensor signal, which means a loss of 2 bits of
bit depth, but this is perfectly fine since (a) you're starting with
a 14-bit signal and (b) even 12 bits is overkill for capturing all
the actual information that's in the signal (at these ISO values,
anyway).
in theory and in practice. I thought that the point of ISO is that
since any amplification is analog, there is zero probability of any
digital quantization effects causing any additional noise when
undergoing the general process of amplification. It is also operating
at an earlier stage in the information flow, and as you might know,
any time you process a signal, you are distorting it to some extent
relative to the "original." Amplifying at the earlier analog stage
won't have a chance to enhance any distortion done by the ADC or
anything else artifact-producing that might lie in between.
Of course this has nothing to do with NEF files or anything, that is not what I meant. LOL51 AF points has nothing to do with raw performance and noise.And the complexity and density of the cam 3500 with its 51 AF points
may also be the reason for slightly worse raw performamce than the
simpler 9 point AF module in the Canon.
For each stop of ISO increase one loses a stop of dynamic range. So, there is an engineering trade off to consider. Of course, if one must increase ISO to get the shot, the cleaner sensor is to be perferred all things being equal. So it is of considerable benefit to shoot at the lowest ISO consistent with the artistic result desired.Looking at the D300 graphs only, I see almost no reason to ever shoot
below ISO 800, since 800 has almost as low of noise as 200.
The primary function of ISO is to inform the meter how to expose. Higher ISO simply tells the camera to pretend that the sensor has a lower maximum exposure and thus to shorten the exposure, providing the photographer, at a high level (that is, forgetting implementation details) with a way to use a smaller aperture or shorter shutter speed.Actually, this is something that never really made sense to me both
in theory and in practice. I thought that the point of ISO is that
since any amplification is analog, there is zero probability of any
digital quantization effects causing any additional noise when
undergoing the general process of amplification. It is also operating
at an earlier stage in the information flow, and as you might know,
any time you process a signal, you are distorting it to some extent
relative to the "original." Amplifying at the earlier analog stage
won't have a chance to enhance any distortion done by the ADC or
anything else artifact-producing that might lie in between.
Explained above, for Canon cameras at least.I did some tests and this seemed to work out. That is, if I shoot at
1600 and compare that with the same shot at 800 + EC -1 (everything
else equal) and them digital EC up by one stop, or if I shoot at 800
and compare with the same shot at 400 + EC-1 followed by one stop up
of EC, and again shot at 400 and same shot at 200 with one stop of
EC, where all of the shots have relatively low light, or even if I
shoot at 400 EC-2 followed by 2 stops of EC and compare it to the
1600, in each case the shot done with the higher ISO has noticeably
less noise than the lower ISO + EC shot (all shots done using RAW,
viewed with Adobe lightroom without any additional processing done at
all, and all under the "flat" settings).
But it is true, since "doing an ISO" means exposing for it. Whether or not you obtain good quality is up to many factors in the camera's pipeline, not just whether or not there's a dedicated analog amplifier gain just for this ISO. In fact, as long as there's enough bit depth, the key factor in good high ISO shadow noise performance is read noise that drops with increasing ISO.I have concluded, then, that when people say "but your camera can do
3200 or 6400 (or even 12800)", it is not really true.
It's not the analog multiplication. Note that some cameras, like the K10D, have only a single analog gain and implement all ISO values digitally (leveraging their high starting bit depth - 22 bits for the K10D).I would bet
that a camera that could do real analog amplification up to the
equivalent of those high ISOs would have a correspondingly better
noise profile
This isn't simulating a high ISO shot. It's a way of combining multiple shots, which means you're bringing in more data, the equivalent of shooting at lower ISO but manipulating the statistics a bit differently instead of averaging. Also, this typically won't work in circumstances for which people employ high ISO: handheld, indoor shooting.I think a much better way of simulating a high-ISO shot ... would be to ... Shoot an odd number of shots in rapid
succession ... load all the
shots as separate layers, align the layers, convert them to a smart
object, go to the smart-object stacking mode and choose "median"