How much disk space do I use in a year of hybrid camera use?

jhunna

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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
Buy a 16TB HD and you'll be good for a few more years. You need off-site redundancy. I use Backblaze.com, which provides unlimited cloud storage for a very reasonable annual fee.

About BBlaze, I had a drive failure on a Thursday morning, with 8TB of data, mostly images. BB sent me a HD and I was up and running by the next Monday with no files lost.

--
Dave
 
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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
Buy a 16TB HD and you'll be good for a few more years. You need off-site redundancy. I use Backblaze.com, which provides unlimited cloud storage for a very reasonable annual fee.

About BBlaze, I had a drive failure on a Thursday morning, with 8TB of data, mostly images. BB sent me a HD and I was up and running by the next Monday with no files lost.
That's a great service! But I pretty much replicate that with a Raid Array, Amazon Prime, Google Photos, and backing up to SSD external hard drives. That said, getting all my files on an 8TB HD is a good value for a service.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
Buy a 16TB HD and you'll be good for a few more years. You need off-site redundancy. I use Backblaze.com, which provides unlimited cloud storage for a very reasonable annual fee.

About BBlaze, I had a drive failure on a Thursday morning, with 8TB of data, mostly images. BB sent me a HD and I was up and running by the next Monday with no files lost.
That's a great service! But I pretty much replicate that with a Raid Array, Amazon Prime, Google Photos, and backing up to SSD external hard drives. That said, getting all my files on an 8TB HD is a good value for a service.
RAID is not off site. See if you can find reviews of someone that has recovered from Amazon Prime. I don't know one way or the other. Also, compare pricing. Long ago, when I considered Amazon, it was way more expensive than BB..
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
Buy a 16TB HD and you'll be good for a few more years. You need off-site redundancy. I use Backblaze.com, which provides unlimited cloud storage for a very reasonable annual fee.

About BBlaze, I had a drive failure on a Thursday morning, with 8TB of data, mostly images. BB sent me a HD and I was up and running by the next Monday with no files lost.
That's a great service! But I pretty much replicate that with a Raid Array, Amazon Prime, Google Photos, and backing up to SSD external hard drives. That said, getting all my files on an 8TB HD is a good value for a service.
RAID is not off site. See if you can find reviews of someone that has recovered from Amazon Prime. I don't know one way or the other. Also, compare pricing. Long ago, when I considered Amazon, it was way more expensive than BB..
I listed 4 places I store photos, three of which were offsite. Raid is to overcome a drive failure, with a minimum of inconvenience. Amazon Prime offers free unlimited photo storage included with its service, but of course pulling your photos down from there will be time consuming. Which is why I liked the BBlaze sending you a HD of your files.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.

Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.


I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.

Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
 
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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.

I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
Oh, I do not call the "lossless" RAW-M (FF) and RAW-S (both) lossless. They are de-mosaiced then scaled, after all. I do not use these at all.

The RAW-L and RAW-M (APS-C) are genuinely lossless, however.

I don't blame you for being skeptical considering the number of companies who have tried to call their lossy compression "visually lossless" (and similar weasel words). I won't use lossy compressed files, either. I used uncompressed when shooting Nikon, and when using the A7RIV (and below).
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.

I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
Oh, I do not call the "lossless" RAW-M (FF) and RAW-S (both) lossless. They are de-mosaiced then scaled, after all. I do not use these at all.

The RAW-L and RAW-M (APS-C) are genuinely lossless, however.

I don't blame you for being skeptical considering the number of companies who have tried to call their lossy compression "visually lossless" (and similar weasel words). I won't use lossy compressed files, either. I used uncompressed when shooting Nikon, and when using the A7RIV (and below).
I know the differences are minor but they exist. Take a look at this video to see the differences:


. They aren't so bad that I would never use them, but they are slightly worse than uncompressed, so in my mind not completely lossless.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
Buy a 16TB HD and you'll be good for a few more years. You need off-site redundancy. I use Backblaze.com, which provides unlimited cloud storage for a very reasonable annual fee.

About BBlaze, I had a drive failure on a Thursday morning, with 8TB of data, mostly images. BB sent me a HD and I was up and running by the next Monday with no files lost.
That's a great service! But I pretty much replicate that with a Raid Array, Amazon Prime, Google Photos, and backing up to SSD external hard drives. That said, getting all my files on an 8TB HD is a good value for a service.
RAID is not off site. See if you can find reviews of someone that has recovered from Amazon Prime. I don't know one way or the other. Also, compare pricing. Long ago, when I considered Amazon, it was way more expensive than BB..
I listed 4 places I store photos, three of which were offsite. Raid is to overcome a drive failure, with a minimum of inconvenience. Amazon Prime offers free unlimited photo storage included with its service, but of course pulling your photos down from there will be time consuming. Which is why I liked the BBlaze sending you a HD of your files.
I've been using Amazon on and off since it's free and included with Prime, it has some useful sharing features but it sits at a weird cross section between something with truly seamless sharing features and great search (eg Google Photos) and a more dedicated backup solution (eg Backblaze).

Not a bad option to have since it's free for many of us tho, but yeah once I get organized I'll probably pony up for Backblaze myself as my main off-site backup option. That way I can leave Google Photos solely for favorites or stuff I actively wanna share and Amazon for whatever.

My needs are more modest tho, I probably shoot half as much as you and outside the occasional astro session or high contrast shots I've no need for uncompressed RAW, so that saves a ton on storage. TBH on the A7CR there isn't any kinda IQ penalty on lossless compression vs uncompressed (like on my A7R IV with lossy), so outside of some buffer consideration I dunno why you bother with uncompressed, but I think we had this discussion before...
 
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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
No... This really isn't about "what the label says", you're literally arguing against facts and math here.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.
That's different, but yeah no argument there...
I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
The point is that lossless compression (when used on the full res L RAW) is the best of both, with no downside (not small, none).
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
There's a reason it's called lossless. I'm not trying to change your mind (honest), but the way you're laying it out borders on misinformation (no offense, to you or that random YT'er trying to spot differences at 500%... yeah there's better ways to do that).
 
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My needs are more modest tho, I probably shoot half as much as you and outside the occasional astro session or high contrast shots I've no need for uncompressed RAW, so that saves a ton on storage. TBH on the A7CR there isn't any kinda IQ penalty on lossless compression vs uncompressed (like on my A7R IV with lossy), so outside of some buffer consideration I dunno why you bother with uncompressed, but I think we had this discussion before...
But there is a difference ...

Watch this video:


Again minor, but the difference is there.
 
My needs are more modest tho, I probably shoot half as much as you and outside the occasional astro session or high contrast shots I've no need for uncompressed RAW, so that saves a ton on storage. TBH on the A7CR there isn't any kinda IQ penalty on lossless compression vs uncompressed (like on my A7R IV with lossy), so outside of some buffer consideration I dunno why you bother with uncompressed, but I think we had this discussion before...
But there is a difference ...

Watch this video:


Again minor, but the difference is there.
That video didn't tell me anything, there's better ways to compare the files before/after compression.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
No... This really isn't about "what the label says", you're literally arguing against facts and math here.
The only thing that matters is the results you see with your eyes. If you are going to use math as a defense you will need to show your work.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.
That's different, but yeah no argument there...
I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
The point is that lossless compression (when used on the full res L RAW) is the best of both, with no downside (not small, none).
It is an improved compression, but either you want to save space or you want file fidelity. Lossless gives you less of both. Lossy compression isn't so bad that I would never use it yet I get real buffer gains when using lossy compression vs lossless compression.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
There's a reason it's called lossless. I'm not trying to change your mind (honest), but the way you're laying it out borders on misinformation (no offense, to you or that random YT'er trying to spot differences at 500%... yeah there's better ways to do that).
I just need to see the better way to prove it, like I said if it is math we need to see the work. Another YouTuber (mathphotographer) does this with the Q3. We just need someone to do the same for Sony, so that I can stop using my eyes.

Again not enough difference between the three formats for me to be concerned, but if I have the space why not compress on my computer (ie convert to DNG which is a smaller and more useful format than .arw).
 
My needs are more modest tho, I probably shoot half as much as you and outside the occasional astro session or high contrast shots I've no need for uncompressed RAW, so that saves a ton on storage. TBH on the A7CR there isn't any kinda IQ penalty on lossless compression vs uncompressed (like on my A7R IV with lossy), so outside of some buffer consideration I dunno why you bother with uncompressed, but I think we had this discussion before...
But there is a difference ...

Watch this video:


Again minor, but the difference is there.
That video didn't tell me anything, there's better ways to compare the files before/after compression.
There is no way you actually paid attention and watched that in that short of time. You got a sense of his method, but no way you went in-depth with reviewing his scenarios in that short of time. I watched it three or four times trying to find a home in his method and his conclusions are reasonable and justified.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
No... This really isn't about "what the label says", you're literally arguing against facts and math here.
The only thing that matters is the results you see with your eyes. If you are going to use math as a defense you will need to show your work.
No, you're the one making the initial claim against what's known and understood. Have you done your own test? I'd be genuinely curious to see the results.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.
That's different, but yeah no argument there...
I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
The point is that lossless compression (when used on the full res L RAW) is the best of both, with no downside (not small, none).
It is an improved compression, but either you want to save space or you want file fidelity. Lossless gives you less of both.
No, it's a different type of compression not an improved form of compression. If lossless compression didn't give exact byte per byte and 0 per 0 fidelity then software install packages and zip compression would literally not work... Think about it.
Lossy compression isn't so bad that I would never use it yet I get real buffer gains when using lossy compression vs lossless compression.
You should be using it all the time but you do you, Aleph already pointed out the only plausible justification not to use it and it's got nothing to do with fidelity.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
There's a reason it's called lossless. I'm not trying to change your mind (honest), but the way you're laying it out borders on misinformation (no offense, to you or that random YT'er trying to spot differences at 500%... yeah there's better ways to do that).
I just need to see the better way to prove it, like I said if it is math we need to see the work.
The entire Internet and software industry would like a word.
Another YouTuber (mathphotographer) does this with the Q3. We just need someone to do the same for Sony, so that I can stop using my eyes.
And what did he conclude?
Again not enough difference between the three formats for me to be concerned, but if I have the space why not compress on my computer (ie convert to DNG which is a smaller and more useful format than .arw).
I'd suggest doing your own test if you're gonna argue this vehemently, no offense but the YouTube test you linked is ridiculous. A test like that shouldn't be performed outside where lighting conditions are changing by the second (and they did!), that undermines the credibility and reliability of the whole test, and even then the YT'er you linked only thinks he saw a difference in 1 out of 4 tests he performed.

Frankly the whole thing smacks of bad methodology, because the test where he thinks he did see a difference is the one where one would expect less difference (with the less resolving of the two lenses he used and with no over/under exposure used)...
 
My needs are more modest tho, I probably shoot half as much as you and outside the occasional astro session or high contrast shots I've no need for uncompressed RAW, so that saves a ton on storage. TBH on the A7CR there isn't any kinda IQ penalty on lossless compression vs uncompressed (like on my A7R IV with lossy), so outside of some buffer consideration I dunno why you bother with uncompressed, but I think we had this discussion before...
But there is a difference ...

Watch this video:


Again minor, but the difference is there.
That video didn't tell me anything, there's better ways to compare the files before/after compression.
There is no way you actually paid attention and watched that in that short of time. You got a sense of his method, but no way you went in-depth with reviewing his scenarios in that short of time. I watched it three or four times trying to find a home in his method and his conclusions are reasonable and justified.
I did, see my other reply, it didn't take long to figure out all the potential issues with his test, it lacks credibility. His conclusions are bogus and misleading. YouTube does let you speed up videos you know, but I watched at normal speed, and didn't need to watch it more than once, that was enough to figure out he was wasting my time.

If you see a test where they actually controlled all the variables in play feel free to link it, I didn't mind watching it to try and understand where you're coming from but I'm afraid you've been mislead. Edit: I know it's your own thread and I don't mean to dictate where it should go, but at this point the matter is probably a question better posed at:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/1061

If we're gonna go by our eyes rather than math/truth (as you suggested), then the test needs conditions controlled a heck of a lot better than the YT'er you linked to managed...

He's literally comparing results of over/under exposure while changing the lighting in between shots!! (and still didn't really see a difference in that particular test) He tried to claim the 24-70 test showed more of a difference cause the subject is closer but that's questionable logic, there's loads of reasons why he could've goofed up the results there given all the other mistakes involved.
 
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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.

I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
Oh, I do not call the "lossless" RAW-M (FF) and RAW-S (both) lossless. They are de-mosaiced then scaled, after all. I do not use these at all.

The RAW-L and RAW-M (APS-C) are genuinely lossless, however.

I don't blame you for being skeptical considering the number of companies who have tried to call their lossy compression "visually lossless" (and similar weasel words). I won't use lossy compressed files, either. I used uncompressed when shooting Nikon, and when using the A7RIV (and below).
I know the differences are minor but they exist. Take a look at this video to see the differences:


. They aren't so bad that I would never use them, but they are slightly worse than uncompressed, so in my mind not completely lossless.
That video is a joke. Heck, his lossy compressed raw looks better than the uncompressed. He even admitted to a possible focus error, which basically renders his entire test invalid. Pay attention to the video rather than spread misinformation. This Youtuber's going straight to the ignore list - the incompetence there is astounding.

Lossy errors do not make the entire image blurrier, it introduces compression errors which are very distinct from misfocusing.
 
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I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
No... This really isn't about "what the label says", you're literally arguing against facts and math here.
The only thing that matters is the results you see with your eyes. If you are going to use math as a defense you will need to show your work.
No, you're the one making the initial claim against what's known and understood. Have you done your own test? I'd be genuinely curious to see the results.
That's not true you and Aleph are trying to convince me lossless is better than uncompressed, after I stated I have no issue with space The burden of proof is on the two of you. Uncompressed is the unalgorthmic dorm of the file. I don't want to use anything else except where I need performance. Space is not an issue for me 99% of the time.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.
That's different, but yeah no argument there...
I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
The point is that lossless compression (when used on the full res L RAW) is the best of both, with no downside (not small, none).
It is an improved compression, but either you want to save space or you want file fidelity. Lossless gives you less of both.
No, it's a different type of compression not an improved form of compression. If lossless compression didn't give exact byte per byte and 0 per 0 fidelity then software install packages and zip compression would literally not work... Think about it.
I didn't say it was an improved version of the lossy compression, I said it is an improved compression meaning it could be version 2.0 of the lossy compression, or it could be version 1.0 of a new compression the difference doesn't matter to me.

Very familiar with computer compressions, and you and I both know errors can happen in the process of compression, not to mention the extra computer power it takes to do the compression.

Lossy compression isn't so bad that I would never use it yet I get real buffer gains when using lossy compression vs lossless compression.
You should be using it all the time but you do you, Aleph already pointed out the only plausible justification not to use it and it's got nothing to do with fidelity.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
There's a reason it's called lossless. I'm not trying to change your mind (honest), but the way you're laying it out borders on misinformation (no offense, to you or that random YT'er trying to spot differences at 500%... yeah there's better ways to do that).
I just need to see the better way to prove it, like I said if it is math we need to see the work.
The entire Internet and software industry would like a word.
Another YouTuber (mathphotographer) does this with the Q3. We just need someone to do the same for Sony, so that I can stop using my eyes.
And what did he conclude?
He came away with the MRaw version actually improved DR and had lower noise than the LRaw versions. (As an aside I thought Sony was doing the same thing, but they aren't. I see a real value in a 36 MP raw that is using pixel binning for its smaller size. Almost gives you a free sensor type)
Again not enough difference between the three formats for me to be concerned, but if I have the space why not compress on my computer (ie convert to DNG which is a smaller and more useful format than .arw).
I'd suggest doing your own test if you're gonna argue this vehemently, no offense but the YouTube test you linked is ridiculous. A test like that shouldn't be performed outside where lighting conditions are changing by the second (and they did!), that undermines the credibility and reliability of the whole test, and even then the YT'er you linked only thinks he saw a difference in 1 out of 4 tests he performed.

Frankly the whole thing smacks of bad methodology, because the test where he thinks he did see a difference is the one where one would expect less difference (with the less resolving of the two lenses he used and with no over/under exposure used)...
I agree he could have used a more scientific and stable environment, but there is enough there to question what Sony really means by lossless, when they carelessly use it with the other two formats.
 
I shoot 61MP A7CR, and save all my images in jpeg/uncompressed RAW format. I go out to shoot a few times a month, and usually end up with less than 100 photos a session. I also shoot sports photos, and videos and when I do I end up with just less than 1000 photos, and 4k60p video in XAVC-HS format with Proxies.

I end up making 30x20 photos, and videos of the events. After each even I make a folder on my computer and upload the entire SD card from my camera, my folder structure looks like this:

01012024 - NewYearsDayParty

12242024 - Christmas Day

etc...

This year I have 44 events, including practice and testing sessions.

I save everything, because one year I didn't copy the entire card over, and lost the video of the last Christmas with one of my family members. So this technique prevents that from happening.

I store everything on my pc that has 72TB of raid space. I will then back up the year onto an external Solid state drive, and I have copies of jpegs and videos in google photos and youtube.

After all of that I have taken 3TB of data for the year.

Today I start a new folder for 2025.
You could use less space if you chose lossless compressed RAW - uncompressed RAW uses almost twice the space for no good reason.

I shot uncompressed RAW on the A7RIV, because there was no alternative. Lossless compressed (unlike lossy compressed, which was the original Sony compressed format) retains all the data, just compressed like a ZIP file. I think lossless compression arrived with the A7IV, but it was ported back to the original A1. It is in the A7RV, and it's in the A7CR.

I know a few people use unusual tools on their RAW files, and need uncompressed for that, but all the mainstream tools support lossless compressed now. There are a few that don't support the "scaled" lossless compressed files (eg: the 15Mpixel RAW-S), but they still support the true RAW files.
Space is cheap, so the only benefit to using the lossless compressed files is buffer performance. I have seen enough comparisons to know that all of the compressions do impart a difference into the final product regardless of what the label says.
No... This really isn't about "what the label says", you're literally arguing against facts and math here.
The only thing that matters is the results you see with your eyes. If you are going to use math as a defense you will need to show your work.
No, you're the one making the initial claim against what's known and understood. Have you done your own test? I'd be genuinely curious to see the results.
That's not true you and Aleph are trying to convince me lossless is better than uncompressed, after I stated I have no issue with space The burden of proof is on the two of you. Uncompressed is the unalgorthmic dorm of the file. I don't want to use anything else except where I need performance. Space is not an issue for me 99% of the time.
Besides, I wonder how they call the MRAW and SRAW lossless, when clearly there is a difference in the final file, so the title of lossless means little to me.
That's different, but yeah no argument there...
I use uncompressed for true file fidelity and compressed (lossy) for performance.
The point is that lossless compression (when used on the full res L RAW) is the best of both, with no downside (not small, none).
It is an improved compression, but either you want to save space or you want file fidelity. Lossless gives you less of both.
No, it's a different type of compression not an improved form of compression. If lossless compression didn't give exact byte per byte and 0 per 0 fidelity then software install packages and zip compression would literally not work... Think about it.
I didn't say it was an improved version of the lossy compression, I said it is an improved compression meaning it could be version 2.0 of the lossy compression, or it could be version 1.0 of a new compression the difference doesn't matter to me.

Very familiar with computer compressions, and you and I both know errors can happen in the process of compression, not to mention the extra computer power it takes to do the compression.
Lossy compression isn't so bad that I would never use it yet I get real buffer gains when using lossy compression vs lossless compression.
You should be using it all the time but you do you, Aleph already pointed out the only plausible justification not to use it and it's got nothing to do with fidelity.
Otherwise I don't have anything against any of the formats as I am all for more options, but I prefer to use the formats that capture the most unaltered data. Just a personal preference.
There's a reason it's called lossless. I'm not trying to change your mind (honest), but the way you're laying it out borders on misinformation (no offense, to you or that random YT'er trying to spot differences at 500%... yeah there's better ways to do that).
I just need to see the better way to prove it, like I said if it is math we need to see the work.
The entire Internet and software industry would like a word.
Another YouTuber (mathphotographer) does this with the Q3. We just need someone to do the same for Sony, so that I can stop using my eyes.
And what did he conclude?
He came away with the MRaw version actually improved DR and had lower noise than the LRaw versions. (As an aside I thought Sony was doing the same thing, but they aren't. I see a real value in a 36 MP raw that is using pixel binning for its smaller size. Almost gives you a free sensor type)
Again not enough difference between the three formats for me to be concerned, but if I have the space why not compress on my computer (ie convert to DNG which is a smaller and more useful format than .arw).
I'd suggest doing your own test if you're gonna argue this vehemently, no offense but the YouTube test you linked is ridiculous. A test like that shouldn't be performed outside where lighting conditions are changing by the second (and they did!), that undermines the credibility and reliability of the whole test, and even then the YT'er you linked only thinks he saw a difference in 1 out of 4 tests he performed.

Frankly the whole thing smacks of bad methodology, because the test where he thinks he did see a difference is the one where one would expect less difference (with the less resolving of the two lenses he used and with no over/under exposure used)...
I agree he could have used a more scientific and stable environment, but there is enough there to question what Sony really means by lossless, when they carelessly use it with the other two formats.
No there isn't, because the test is completely invalid. Just because you don't understand something doesn't mean your skepticism is justified. If I'm weighing a 10kg weight and I jump around the test instrument, does that mean there's suddenly skepticism that the weight is not actually 10kg? NO! Do the test properly then discuss.
 
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