FZ2500 - after three months

Satyaa

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I have now used my FZ2500 for more than three months.

If you're looking for my one-liner verdict... It is very good, even excellent in good daylight, sometimes finicky, and has its limitations in low light.

If you've had enough, stop! If you want the gory details, read on.

Background... why did I buy it? I had used the FZ1000 for two months last year. I liked that the FZ2500 has the same sensor, extra 80mm reach with the new lens, touchscreen, and more function buttons. I like the DSLR style of these cameras, lighter, and no need to change lenses.

My hope was that the IQ would be as good as that of FZ1000 and that the improved video features would be useful (for my future plans to do more video).

The extra $400 was OK price to pay for those extras. I had been looking for an all-in-one travel camera since last summer and my December vacation trip was the best time for it.

First experience... I noticed few things right away within the first week of buying the camera. One was that it was much quieter than the FZ1000: good. Second was that it had similar noise in low light at higher ISO (based on photos taken at a high school event in the auditorium): OK. The last thing was that the hood was large, ugly and obstructive: bad! Later I learned that the lens barrel can be stopped from retracting, through a menu option: good.

Noise in low light shots (it has some blur from hand-shake but not relevant)
Noise in low light shots (it has some blur from hand-shake but not relevant)

In good daylight... I used it on a week long trip to Mauritius. The photos turned out excellent, probably as good as my D7200 would have produced (at least, close enough - for large monitors, TVs and average prints). When there is good/bright available light, this camera does very well. Hardly anything to complain about.

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Excellent in good daylight

Some of my photos during the trip were shot through the window of our taxi going at about 60 KM/H. They turned out better than I expected!

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Shot from the taxi when going at about 60 KM/H

What happens sometimes... I don't always get the best photos. The rate of keepers is lower than I would like. I found that there are several reasons for it.

* The IS is not consistent for me. Especially at longer focal length, there is a shake/blur. The sharpness of the image reduces as the distance from the subject increases - irrespective of focal length. This has nothing to do with zoom. At reasonably close distances I get excellently sharp photos even at 480 mm.

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480 mm at close distance (~8 feet) cropped

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480 mm at moderate distance (~50 feet?) cropped

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480 mm at moderate distance; cropped. Can't remember if I had the i.Zoom ON.

* The lens is also finicky about any glass in front of it. For example, I used the clear glass digital filters that I use on my DSLR. I think of them as high quality but the FZ2500 does not like them. I get many dull images. It reduces both contrast and sharpness. Similarly the double-paned glass door to my deck. I get very few excellent shots through that glass. In comparison, the % of good photos goes up with shooting directly outside.

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With filter used... not a bad example but I've had better ones.

* Because the lens is finicky with a filter in front of it, and because of my fear of damaging the front lens element by bumping into somethhing, I constantly have the hood on. It is an ungly and inconvenient thing in my opinion. I consider it as a neccessary evil like many things in life. I am looking for a more compact hood like the one I had on my FZ1000.

* The lens is also finicky with flare/glare. I have had excellent shots of sunset shooting into the sun. I also had bad photos when the light hits the lens sideways. I guess the hood helps with this situation.

* I have seen other members produce very good results using i.zoom and EZ but that did not work for me. I prefer to stay within the 480 mm optical zoom. The photos lose both contrast and sharpness when I go into the tricky zooms.

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Extended/i.zoom - I don't like

Actually, except for distant birds, I don't need beyond 300 mm optical zoom. So, there's no real reason for tricky zooms for general use.

Finally, the RAW images... I had high hopes since DxO released an update supporting this camera for RAW files. I have been playing with this over the past two or three weeks. I find that there is no big benefit with RAW files. There is more noise in the RAW files than I see in my D7200. Consequently, they require more processing. This tells me that the camera is doing a very good job to produce the JPEG images the way it does! DxO cam produce images just as good but I am not seeing any advantage to go over RAW processing.

Then about JPEG. I find that Scenery produces best results when the sky is in the photo and Vivid produces the best results in all other cases. I have tried shooting in Natural photo style and processing it on the computer. The RAW file is of higher bit rate and the JPEG is only 8-bit. The camera has already thrown away some detail in producing the JPEGs. So, I find it better to let the camera process from RAW files instead of me tweaking the lower bit rate JPEGs.

For my taste, I have set the EV to -1/3, Highlights to +5 and Shadows to -2.

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Processed from RAW, Applied B&W preset in DxO

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JPEG SOOC; cropped

Conclusion... read the one-liner verdict at the top! :)

Joking aside, I will comment on two points that come up frequently on the forums.

1. Is it better than FZ1000? For me it is because of the reasons I stated above and I was willing to pay the extra $400 for it. If you already have an FZ1000, I don't see it as an attractive upgrade. If you're buying a new camera today, you should consider the features as I explained above.

2. Is there sample variation? Based on online reviews and experienced members' posts on this forum, I think that there is. I have not experienced any because this is my only copy! I haven't been able to produce images that I can call excellent, but have had an equal number of bad ones too. It tells me that the camera is capable but I need to learn to use it to its strengths.

Its real limitation is in low light. There are those times when I feel the need for my D7200 with Sigma 18-35/1.8! This is not surprising because I had the same experience with the FZ1000 last year.

Overall, this camera with its long zoom lens is convenient and lighter than my DSLR system. I can easily carry it anywhere without feeling the weight. That's why I call it an all-in-one travel camera. To that extent it meets most of my needs, and exceeds in some areas.

All the best.



--
'Knowledge is the only form of wealth that increases when shared' - unknown
My FZ2500 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQU7Thb
My D7200 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQjybAS
All my albums: https://www.flickr.com/photos/satya_a/albums
 
Satyaa are your highlights/ contrast not the other way around as in highlights -5 and shadows +2. At least I seem to remember this from the cheatsheet.

Nice short review/ summary of the pro's and con's of the camera.
 
... I had high hopes since DxO released an update supporting this camera for RAW files. I have been playing with this over the past two or three weeks. I find that there is no big benefit with RAW files. There is more noise in the RAW files than I see in my D7200. Consequently, they require more processing. This tells me that the camera is doing a very good job to produce the JPEG images the way it does! DxO cam produce images just as good but I am not seeing any advantage to go over RAW processing. ...

... Its real limitation is in low light. There are those times when I feel the need for my D7200 with Sigma 18-35/1.8! This is not surprising because I had the same experience with the FZ1000 last year. ...
Of course any APS-C sensor going to have less noise at higher ISO's than the smaller 1"-Type sensor.

1"-Type sensor 13.20mm x 8.8mm = 116 sq. mm.
Nikon APS-C sensor 23.6mm x 15.7mm = 370 sq. mm.

Nikon APS-C sensor has 3.2 times the surface area as the 1"-Type sensor.

In comparison the 1"-Type sensor has a little over 4 times the surface area of the 1/2.3" sensor.

Hence comparing the 1"-Type sensor camera to APS-C sensor camera be similar to comparing 1/2.3" sensor camera to 1"-Type sensor camera.

Do not have the FZ2500 nor PP any FZ2500 RAW files, but for myself using the FZ1000 in low light/ high ISO lighting conditions I can get noticeably better NR, highlight, and shadow recovery from FZ1000 RAW than in-camera JPG processing; for example see my post HERE.

I'll agree with good even lighting and lower ISO's may not be much gained with RAW. However as lighting becomes more adverse and ISO increases, the benefits of RAW increases.

In my reply HERE to of previous post of your where I posted a quick example of JPG vs RAW highlight recovery comparison. The JPG posted is the full size OOC image, if there's "... no big benefit with RAW files ...", then you 'should' be able to PP the JPG to match the PP RAW I posted. ;-) .

For 'myself' (and as noted in some FZ1000 reviews) 1600 ISO about the max. Up to 1600 ISO the FZ1000 RAW IQ compares quite to my Canon 70D RAW images-- need to do 100% pixel peeping to see differences.

I do a lot of low light/ high ISO lighting for various church events, and when 1600 - 6400 ISO needed I'll use my DSLR's.

Also do quite a bit of low light/ high ISO at various events, museums, exhibits, etc:

FZ1000 PP RAW 1600 ISO
FZ1000 PP RAW 1600 ISO

FZ1000 PP RAW 1600
FZ1000 PP RAW 1600

FZ1000 PP RAW 1000 ISO
FZ1000 PP RAW 1000 ISO

FZ1000 PP RAW 3200 ISO; actually ambient lighting around 1-stop darker than image.
FZ1000 PP RAW 3200 ISO; actually ambient lighting around 1-stop darker than image.

The only time I shoot JPG is when doing JPG+RAW for comparisons, or when camera mode does not support RAW; i.e., in-camera pano, iZoom, etc.

Cheers,
Jon
 
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Good review.

Down-to-earth, not exaggerating either at good nor bad sides/points experienced during the time of use.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this product.
 
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Thanks Avian.

I did get caught up in the 'Is My FZ2500 Sharp' hype for a while but then realized that my time is better spent on exploring its strengths :)

I have seen what the camera can do. I just have to get the consistency part.

Thanks fro your comments.
 
Hello

Fine review, in accordance with my own first experience of the FZ2000, coincidentally also in Mauritius (!)
I used the camera mostly in day-time, shooting RAW, development with Lightroom, prints up to A3

I mostly agree with your comments, adding some :

Ergonomy : close to perfect, aside the Hood : really inconvenient, I don't use it. (Flares are not the main reason to reject a picture (and by far)
Glass in front : I use a UV filter for protection, and did not experience the drawbacks you encountered about contrast. However I plan to setup a formal comparison experiment
Keepers : no more no less than with another camera. Main reason for rejects : my errors not the camera's.
ISO : usable up to 800, 1600 with restrictions.

Everything Good and Well ? no ! I have a concern about Battery autonomy.
With this settings : Camera on hand, secured by a wristwrap, continuously ON (so most of the time in standby), AFS, IS ON, Lens not allowed to retract. EVF and LCD only ON during the shots,
With that settings I never got more than 90/100 hundreds shots on a 2/5 hours span.

Back home I am currently investigating. Using the intervallometer the results are clearly in contradiction with the the field experience : I get 250/300 shots with long intervals, up to 1000 with 1sec. interval.
Did I did something wrong while hiking ?
I have more thinking to do for experimenting without using the intervallometer.
Does someone have ideas ?

Thanks for reading
 
Hi Jon, thank you for your feedback.
Of course any APS-C sensor going to have less noise at higher ISO's than the smaller 1"-Type sensor.

1"-Type sensor 13.20mm x 8.8mm = 116 sq. mm.
Nikon APS-C sensor 23.6mm x 15.7mm = 370 sq. mm.

Nikon APS-C sensor has 3.2 times the surface area as the 1"-Type sensor.

In comparison the 1"-Type sensor has a little over 4 times the surface area of the 1/2.3" sensor.

Hence comparing the 1"-Type sensor camera to APS-C sensor camera be similar to comparing 1/2.3" sensor camera to 1"-Type sensor camera.
My comment was not an intent to compare D7200 per se. I have used cameras of all sensor sizes and know the differences. I just stated my 'expectations' from DxO and RAW files based on that experience.
Do not have the FZ2500 nor PP any FZ2500 RAW files, but for myself using the FZ1000 in low light/ high ISO lighting conditions I can get noticeably better NR, highlight, and shadow recovery from FZ1000 RAW than in-camera JPG processing; for example see my post HERE.
When I had FZ1000 last year, my older DxO did not support that model and I never shot in RAW. So, I don't have a good baseline to compare for myself. RAW processing does give better results but the difference in my case was not as big as with the D7100/7200. It is possible that Nikon's JPEG processing was conservative to start with.
I'll agree with good even lighting and lower ISO's may not be much gained with RAW. However as lighting becomes more adverse and ISO increases, the benefits of RAW increases.

In my reply HERE to of previous post of your where I posted a quick example of JPG vs RAW highlight recovery comparison. The JPG posted is the full size OOC image, if there's "... no big benefit with RAW files ...", then you 'should' be able to PP the JPG to match the PP RAW I posted. ;-) .
Yes, I have seen your earlier response. I did not get a chance to look into downloading/trying the files. It also depends on the type of lighting as you pointed out above. I have kept the use of FZ2500 to good light situations mainly because I have a D7200 with f/1.8 lenses ready to go.

I will try to shoot some low light photos and compare RAW vs. JPEG for my type of use.
For 'myself' (and as noted in some FZ1000 reviews) 1600 ISO about the max. Up to 1600 ISO the FZ1000 RAW IQ compares quite to my Canon 70D RAW images-- need to do 100% pixel peeping to see differences.
For your type of use, that's a valid result. I am surprised with it though because of the same reasons as you pointed out above with the area of APSC sensor.
I do a lot of low light/ high ISO lighting for various church events, and when 1600 - 6400 ISO needed I'll use my DSLR's.

Also do quite a bit of low light/ high ISO at various events, museums, exhibits, etc:

FZ1000 PP RAW 1600 ISO
FZ1000 PP RAW 1600 ISO

FZ1000 PP RAW 1600
FZ1000 PP RAW 1600

FZ1000 PP RAW 1000 ISO
FZ1000 PP RAW 1000 ISO

FZ1000 PP RAW 3200 ISO; actually ambient lighting around 1-stop darker than image.
FZ1000 PP RAW 3200 ISO; actually ambient lighting around 1-stop darker than image.

The only time I shoot JPG is when doing JPG+RAW for comparisons, or when camera mode does not support RAW; i.e., in-camera pano, iZoom, etc.
I have seen your photos in earlier posts. They are excellent. For average size prints or viewing on a large TV/Monitor, it is hard to tell them apart from photos coming from an APSC camera.

I have a birthday party or some other party almost once a month. Next time, I will try to leave my DSLR home and exclusively shoot RAW + JPEG with the FZ2500. That should give me enough samples to make a fair comparison.
Cheers,
Jon
Thank you!

--
'Knowledge is the only form of wealth that increases when shared' - unknown
My FZ2500 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQU7Thb
My D7200 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQjybAS
All my albums: https://www.flickr.com/photos/satya_a/albums
 
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Thank you for your comments and added points...
Hello

Fine review, in accordance with my own first experience of the FZ2000, coincidentally also in Mauritius (!)
Nice place. Do you live there or were you visiting?
I used the camera mostly in day-time, shooting RAW, development with Lightroom, prints up to A3

I mostly agree with your comments, adding some :

Ergonomy : close to perfect, aside the Hood : really inconvenient, I don't use it. (Flares are not the main reason to reject a picture (and by far)
Yes, I like this form factor... it is close to my DSLR in shape and size. Personally, I can't hold on well to smaller rangefinder style cameras. I just like them because I grew up learning photography with a rangefinder film camera :)
Glass in front : I use a UV filter for protection, and did not experience the drawbacks you encountered about contrast. However I plan to setup a formal comparison experiment
I have mixed feelings about this. I have some very good shots both with the filter and through my glass door. The % of good shots is less. I can't figure out when it works and when it doesn't. It is more consistent when I don't use the filter.
Keepers : no more no less than with another camera. Main reason for rejects : my errors not the camera's.
ISO : usable up to 800, 1600 with restrictions.
I have saved 'A' mode to C-1 where my ISO limit is 800. I have saved 'S' mode to C-2 where my ISO limit is 1600.
Everything Good and Well ? no ! I have a concern about Battery autonomy.
I am not sure what you mean by 'autonomy'.

I have three extra batteries... one that came free with the camera and two that I bought from B&H. I also bought a dual-charger from Adorama. In addition to the battery in the camera, I always have three batteries and three chargers! The dual-charger has plates, which I also use for my D7200 batteries.
With this settings : Camera on hand, secured by a wristwrap, continuously ON (so most of the time in standby), AFS, IS ON, Lens not allowed to retract. EVF and LCD only ON during the shots,
With that settings I never got more than 90/100 hundreds shots on a 2/5 hours span.
May be you're looking for longer battery life. I get max of 400 shots per full charge in a short period. It goes down if the time period is longer. Basically, the camera is using battery for the display/EVF, continuous AF and few other things. You can tweak those to reduce battery consumption.
Back home I am currently investigating. Using the intervallometer the results are clearly in contradiction with the the field experience : I get 250/300 shots with long intervals, up to 1000 with 1sec. interval.
Did I did something wrong while hiking ?
I have more thinking to do for experimenting without using the intervallometer.
Does someone have ideas ?
I have used the built-in time-lapse videos and have shot few thousands of images. Battery life depends on other factors as I mentioned above. I used a plug-in power adapter.
Thanks for reading
Thanks.
 
I took some indoor images with my FZ1000 the other day. Medium indoor light. Auto-ISO set itself to 1600, no flash.

I took them in max. res. raw + jpg. I found that when I compared raw to jpg, the jpg was of course much less noisy, but sometimes with the edges blurred out.

On the other hand, the dynamic range and contrast were so much better on the raw files. I then used DxO super-duper Prime noise reduction, which is MUCH better than Panasonic's JPG engine. Give it a shot, and look for other differences than noise when comparing raw vs. jpg.

I'll post some of those images soon.
 
Thanks Jeremy.

I will try that. Most of my JPEG to RAW processed results were in good light, which could be the reason for little difference.
 
I uploaded some of those pix from the Boy Scout Court of Honor the other day. I uploaded them in higher resolution than I normally would, because we have a tendency to immediatly click 'view 100%' not thinking of how big of a print that would correspond to. View these as if they were a 5x7 or 8x12 and I think the noise is not objectionable.

Maybe I'm lying to myself, to convince myself that losing the FF SLR was a wise choice, hehehe.


Star Scout Rank = family is also congratulated and involved


These two are of a boy that hardly ever smiled last year


Now, he is presiding with pride and pleasure over others' achievements.


One of the other Assistant Scoutmasters looking on with pride


The top of the flag is getting a little heavy with award ribbons for the troop!


One of the zoomed-back ones.

--
-Jeremy
 
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Great pictures, remind me of when we were involved in BSA when our kids were small

Marie
 
Thanks, a good review. I have the FZ1000 and have considered upgrading to the FZ2500. It seems worth it, but I'm going to hold off for a camera having one more feature, the ability to record in H.265.

Also while not make or break for me I would like to be able to record 4k at 60p at 200 Mbps (4.2.2, 10 bit).

GH5 has most of these features but I like the FZ2500's format more.
 
Thanks, a good review. I have the FZ1000 and have considered upgrading to the FZ2500. It seems worth it, but I'm going to hold off for a camera having one more feature, the ability to record in H.265.
Also while not make or break for me I would like to be able to record 4k at 60p at 200 Mbps (4.2.2, 10 bit).
That requires a much faster/more powerful processor and a design to dispose off the heat that's generated.
GH5 has most of these features but I like the FZ2500's format more.
Thanks and all the best.
 
This topic/comment in my review generated the most responses. So, I tried to process one of my difficult shots. It was a night shot in Dubai, hand-held and at high ISO.

This first one is SOOC JPEG, reduced in DxO to 2700 pixel width (~ 50% of the original). No other processing applied. File size 1.33 MB. Note the angle of view (left and right edges).

87996ec1db4d42ef9b292aa000c91907.jpg

This second one was processed from RAW and reduced in DxO to 2700 pixel width (~ 50% of the original). DxO camera/lens corrections applied. Exported to JPEG at 90% quality. File size 1.18 MB. This image covers slightly wider angle of view. So, DxO is flattening the corners and expanding the overall view while in-camera JPEG cropped them! You can see the dark corners. It is OK in this photo but can be cropped off to give a similar view as the JPEG above. Or, if just the top and bottom are cropped, we get a wider image.

ea61d6ddd54a44d188afec27665620b1.jpg

This third one was processed from RAW in PSE 15. Adjustments applied were very similar to the DxO image above. Note that the angle of view is similar to the in-camera JPEG. I exported the file to JPEG from PSE at 10/12 (High) quality but did not find a way to resize to 2700 pixel width (still rusty with PSE). The resulting file was 10+ MB. I resized using FSIV (with no other adjustments) and the resulting file size was 2.68 MB.

397fd34c0e724f16be53359fc59bfb2d.jpg

Finally, I tried RAWtherapee but could not process this image. Apparently, I need to create a lens profile using a method described on the wiki page. You can see the curvature of the original RAW file and the bad corners. That gives an idea of DxO did.

eb3ecfca0e2d42e8a68c6597a7f46111.jpg

If anyone has a lens profile for FZ2500 that they can share, or point me somewhere it can be downloaded from, that would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

--
'Knowledge is the only form of wealth that increases when shared' - unknown
My FZ2500 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQU7Thb
My D7200 album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQjybAS
All my albums: https://www.flickr.com/photos/satya_a/albums
 
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