RX100 III White balance : auto - photos are too dark

[dp62]

Your camera is fine, the problem is you need a different method of metering. Auto mode means Multi-metering; the camera adjusts exposure based on the average of the entire image...

This is incorrect. As Sony's manual states: "Measures light on each area after dividing the total area into multiple areas and determines the proper exposure of the entire screen (Multi-pattern metering)."

What's happening is what another poster pointed out, in "Superior Auto" mode the camera will look to create a composite image, but when in RAW, the camera cannot perform a composite. So, don't use Superior Auto when in RAW.

I'd suggest deciding how you want to shoot. If you're going to shoot RAW, then I'd suggest Aperture priority, or at least Program. Get the exposure right and then post process to taste. Sony has a program "Image Data Converter" that essentially lets you apply some of the in-camera processing things to RAW images after the fact. It is illuminating to take some RAW images and try some different processing techniques in this program to help you decide what you like for different kinds of images - and then you can choose those options in camera to to straight to JPEG, if that's what you want.

Thank you! Have to confess that I may have been shooting most of my photos in the wrong mode. I do use "P" sometimes, but, as said, my (wrong) assumption was that for 'point and shoot' stuff the Superior Auto would be the right mode. Point+Shoot usually necessary to avoid to keep pace with the rest of the group, else they get out of sight, which has been a regular occurrence, leaving me puzzled which direction they went,,,;-)

I'll try the "A"perture mode next time, set the camera to ISO 200 which still should result in high quality images, but may also work even when cloudy. I just checked, there is quite a fog here right now at 08:00, speed at 5.6 is 1/160 (AWB auto), so that's fairly acceptable. Note: same scene: 125 results in 1/80 and 160 results in 1/100.
Anyway, will give that a try.

Coincidentally, whilst checking for the firmware release of the camera yesterday, I indeed discovered this 'Image Data Converter' on the Sony website.
I will check it out. There is also a free Capture One v9 for Sony though.

Again, thanks for the advice!

=

 

[dp62]

Use P auto instead which allows you to make adjustments which will be visible in the viewfinder. For exposure can be adjusted by using the EV knob on the top right of the body.

Yeah, I'll drop the "Superior Auto" idea ...

Probably I will use "A" instead in future, AWB auto, speed, say 200, Quality Extra Fine (drop ARW for the regular stuff and reserve that mode for the difficult, low light situations) Focus Single Shot-AF, Focus Area: Flexible Spot)

Thanks!

=

 

[edform]

Use P auto instead which allows you to make adjustments which will be visible in the viewfinder. For exposure can be adjusted by using the EV knob on the top right of the body.

Yeah, I'll drop the "Superior Auto" idea ...

Probably I will use "A" instead in future, AWB auto, speed, say 200, Quality Extra Fine (drop ARW for the regular stuff and reserve that mode for the difficult, low light situations) Focus Single Shot-AF, Focus Area: Flexible Spot)

I noticed that you had the camera set in Adobe RGB which I believe is none standard. What else did you change? I suspect that the camera is messed up. Look up how to performs a factory reset and do it - the camera will ask you to set the date and time again but do not alter anything else in the menus. Then check the exposure variation is set to zero and not some minus setting, and put the camera in standard 'A' mode, then take it out and shoot some images in the 'as delivered' settings. Let us know how they come out.

--
Ed Form

 

[dp62]

Use P auto instead which allows you to make adjustments which will be visible in the viewfinder. For exposure can be adjusted by using the EV knob on the top right of the body.

Yeah, I'll drop the "Superior Auto" idea ...

Probably I will use "A" instead in future, AWB auto, speed, say 200, Quality Extra Fine (drop ARW for the regular stuff and reserve that mode for the difficult, low light situations) Focus Single Shot-AF, Focus Area: Flexible Spot)

I noticed that you had the camera set in Adobe RGB which I believe is none standard. What else did you change? I suspect that the camera is messed up. Look up how to performs a factory reset and do it - the camera will ask you to set the date and time again but do not alter anything else in the menus. Then check the exposure variation is set to zero and not some minus setting, and put the camera in standard 'A' mode, then take it out and shoot some images in the 'as delivered' settings. Let us know how they come out.

 

[sogard]

I guess what edform was trying to say is that sRGB is pretty much the standard in digital photography these days. Just google for "sRGB vs Adobe RGB" and you'll get some detailed explanations.

 

[Gone_Now]

Look at the DRange/HDR setting. Mine is an older model, but DR OFF is the norm, see if that helps. It might be under exposing to avoid blowing the highlights.

 

[Lightpath48]

This allows you to see the effects of your settings in real time. Use your exposure compensation dial to tune your preference for exposure.

 

[dp62]

I guess what edform was trying to say is that sRGB is pretty much the standard in digital photography these days. Just google for "sRGB vs Adobe RGB" and you'll get some detailed explanations.

Thanks for your reply. I admit having difficulties in deciding, really I have!
Usually this sRGB / AdobeRGB stuff goes into technical details that are beyond the knowledge and (sorry to say and definitely not personally meant or in an offensive way) beyond the interest of a 'simple end-user'.

Meaning to say that for such a person it is already fine when photos are presented and can be shared with acceptable colors (be it in sRGB or AdobeRGB).

As for me, I more or less assumed AdobeRGB would be the right way to go, that's the only reason why I selected that option.

Meanwhile I did search on 'sRGB vs AdobeRGB' and watched the Youtube video
"Will Crockett - Should You Shoot sRGB or AdobeRGB?"
Though I do have a monitor with AdobeRGB capabilities, I guess I will give sRGB a try...

=

 

[dp62]

Look at the DRange/HDR setting. Mine is an older model, but DR OFF is the norm, see if that helps. It might be under exposing to avoid blowing the highlights.

What mode are you usually shooting in? Intelligent Auto, P, A, S ?
Note in my case 'DRO/Auto HDR' is even set to D-RangeOpt. when selecting "IA"

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[Lightpath48]

Note in my case 'DRO/Auto HDR' is even set to D-RangeOpt. when selecting "IA"

Intelligent Auto defeats your doing anything with DRO on/off, or exposure value. (DRO Auto is set by default, in "IA".) As others have suggested, you'd have results closer to your preferences by shooting in another mode on the dial, and adjusting exposure to suit. In another reply above I suggested a way to see the effects of your adjustments on-screen.

 

[Bill Borne]

I guess what edform was trying to say is that sRGB is pretty much the standard in digital photography these days. Just google for "sRGB vs Adobe RGB" and you'll get some detailed explanations.

Thanks for your reply. I admit having difficulties in deciding, really I have!
Usually this sRGB / AdobeRGB stuff goes into technical details that are beyond the knowledge and (sorry to say and definitely not personally meant or in an offensive way) beyond the interest of a 'simple end-user'.

Meaning to say that for such a person it is already fine when photos are presented and can be shared with acceptable colors (be it in sRGB or AdobeRGB).

As for me, I more or less assumed AdobeRGB would be the right way to go, that's the only reason why I selected that option.

Meanwhile I did search on 'sRGB vs AdobeRGB' and watched the Youtube video
"Will Crockett - Should You Shoot sRGB or AdobeRGB?"
Though I do have a monitor with AdobeRGB capabilities, I guess I will give sRGB a try...

=

that's the way to go imo

 

[dp62]

Note in my case 'DRO/Auto HDR' is even set to D-RangeOpt. when selecting "IA"

Intelligent Auto defeats your doing anything with DRO on/off, or exposure value. (DRO Auto is set by default, in "IA".) As others have suggested, you'd have results closer to your preferences by shooting in another mode on the dial, and adjusting exposure to suit. In another reply above I suggested a way to see the effects of your adjustments on-screen.

Thanks.
Will do that indeed. BTW - in another mode, say "A" this DRO thing is indeed OFF by default.

Oh, last question: are you shooting RAW, RAW+JPG of JPG only ? (e.g. X.Fine)

=

 

[edform]

I guess what edform was trying to say is that sRGB is pretty much the standard in digital photography these days. Just google for "sRGB vs Adobe RGB" and you'll get some detailed explanations.

what I was really trying to say is that the AdobeRGB setting suggested that much messing about had taken place before shots were fired and, with an unfamiliar camera, the best way out of a set of mismatched settings is to do a factory reset. I won't, but I could, post some remarkably similar examples from my friend's Nex7 when he got it. He was tearing his hair out so I gave him the same advice and his next image was a beauty.

The other thing I stressed was the setting of the exposure compensation dial - if it isn't zero or close to zero good pictures get difficult to take.

--
Ed Form

 

[Lightpath48]

Note in my case 'DRO/Auto HDR' is even set to D-RangeOpt. when selecting "IA"

Intelligent Auto defeats your doing anything with DRO on/off, or exposure value. (DRO Auto is set by default, in "IA".) As others have suggested, you'd have results closer to your preferences by shooting in another mode on the dial, and adjusting exposure to suit. In another reply above I suggested a way to see the effects of your adjustments on-screen.

Thanks.
Will do that indeed. BTW - in another mode, say "A" this DRO thing is indeed OFF by default.

Oh, last question: are you shooting RAW, RAW+JPG of JPG only ? (e.g. X.Fine)

=

I shoot fine jpeg for non-critical work (family fun, get togethers, etc.) and raw for more critical applications (magazine submissions, photo competitions, print shows). Sometimes I shoot jpeg in the more critical landscape and nature situations to be able to work with the in-camera HDR. It's really good, but jpeg only.

 

[smorgasbord]

I guess what edform was trying to say is that sRGB is pretty much the standard in digital photography these days. Just google for "sRGB vs Adobe RGB" and you'll get some detailed explanations.

Thanks for your reply. I admit having difficulties in deciding, really I have!
Usually this sRGB / AdobeRGB stuff goes into technical details that are beyond the knowledge and (sorry to say and definitely not personally meant or in an offensive way) beyond the interest of a 'simple end-user'.

Meaning to say that for such a person it is already fine when photos are presented and can be shared with acceptable colors (be it in sRGB or AdobeRGB).

As for me, I more or less assumed AdobeRGB would be the right way to go, that's the only reason why I selected that option.

Meanwhile I did search on 'sRGB vs AdobeRGB' and watched the Youtube video
"Will Crockett - Should You Shoot sRGB or AdobeRGB?"
Though I do have a monitor with AdobeRGB capabilities, I guess I will give sRGB a try...

=

that's the way to go imo

FIrst, AdobeRGB is not making your images too dark, it's the "Superior Auto" setting when in RAW.

Second, the bottom line for sRGB vs AdobeRGB is to use AdobeRGB if you intend to print, ever. If your output is for the web, then go ahead and use sRGB.

And the camera should exposure properly for either color space.

 

[digidog]

smorgasbord wrote: Second, the bottom line for sRGB vs AdobeRGB is to use AdobeRGB if you intend to print, ever. If your output is for the web, then go ahead and use sRGB.

Or shoot the JPEG in Adobe RGB (1998) then resample down and convert to sRGB for the web and mobile devices. Best of both worlds.

And the camera should exposure properly for either color space.

Exactly. But not necessarily for the raw (IF raw+JPEG).

--

Andrew Rodney
Author: Color Management for Photographers
The Digital Dog

Home

 

[smorgasbord]

smorgasbord wrote: Second, the bottom line for sRGB vs AdobeRGB is to use AdobeRGB if you intend to print, ever. If your output is for the web, then go ahead and use sRGB.

Or shoot the JPEG in Adobe RGB (1998) then resample down and convert to sRGB for the web and mobile devices. Best of both worlds.

That's why I said "print, ever."

And the camera should exposure properly for either color space.

Exactly. But not necessarily for the raw (IF raw+JPEG).

Do you know that the camera (any camera, actually) exposes differently for RAW than it does for JPEG?

For me when shooting RAW, I will often slightly overexpose since I know I can pull good data out, whereas in JPEG those highlights are clipped forever. This gives me slightly more dynamic range, avoiding shadows getting lost in sensor noise.

Is this what you're talking about here? That since the camera is presumably exposing for JPEG it's not taking full advantage of what could be done for RAW, and that the camera exposes differently when shooting just RAW or just JPEG?

I suppose it'd be pretty easy to test shooting the 3 ways and comparing exposures. I must admit I've not heard of this before.

 

[digidog]

smorgasbord wrote: Second, the bottom line for sRGB vs AdobeRGB is to use AdobeRGB if you intend to print, ever. If your output is for the web, then go ahead and use sRGB.

Or shoot the JPEG in Adobe RGB (1998) then resample down and convert to sRGB for the web and mobile devices. Best of both worlds.

That's why I said "print, ever."

And the camera should exposure properly for either color space.

Exactly. But not necessarily for the raw (IF raw+JPEG).

Do you know that the camera (any camera, actually) exposes differently for RAW than it does for JPEG?

No and that's the problem! If you expose for an optimal JPEG, you're not optimally exposing for the raw data.

For me when shooting RAW, I will often slightly overexpose since I know I can pull good data out, whereas in JPEG those highlights are clipped forever.

Right. Look what that does to the JPEG. Not good.

Is this what you're talking about here? That since the camera is presumably exposing for JPEG it's not taking full advantage of what could be done for RAW, and that the camera exposes differently when shooting just RAW or just JPEG?

Exactly.

 

[smorgasbord]

Is this what you're talking about here? That since the camera is presumably exposing for JPEG it's not taking full advantage of what could be done for RAW, and that the camera exposes differently when shooting just RAW or just JPEG?

Exactly.

OK, then let's be clear that this isn't something wrong with "RAW+JPEG", but simply that the camera doesn't have an automatic exposure mode that takes advantage of RAW shooting.

I agree it'd be a great feature when shooting RAW to have an additional "Expose to the right" Exposure Mode. Especially now with the video-inspired S-Log profiles, which also benefit from such exposures, it would seem a natural fit for Sony.

How do we start petitioning Sony to add this? Helpful with both Stills and Movies.

 

[SeeTheWorld]

Where did you focus to take that photo? I'm wondering because, if your focus is toward the lighter side (left top) of the photo, the camera will make sure that part is not overexposed resulting in darker shadows in the bottom right. If you're focusing on the person, and still getting that shadow you could try the fill flash? If you're not prepared to use A, S or M, try SCN. I know you're worried that there's something wrong with your camera, but have you tried finding a book that will help you engage the features? I've got a book for my RX 100 IV. It's a big help.