Fujifilm X-S1 On Order For An Old-Timer

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

I also use a small lunch cooler bag. Works well.

Though (I would imagine) not too well for lunch...

 

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

Thanks! X-S1 probably won't get here until next week, but I've already picked up good tips in this thread.

 

[Lisetta1]

The X-S1 seems about the size of the FZ1000 so this thread from the Panasonic forum might be helpful if anyone comes here a-looking:

Loading…

www.dpreview.com

 

[Tokend]

While awaiting delivery of my X-S1 I'm thinking about 'must have' accessories and the two that immediately come to mind are the SD card and carrying case. Which SD card (brand, size, speed) and case (if you use one) would you guys suggest?

I bought this padded messenger bag from Amazon for $32. I think it has gone up a few bucks. It holds my X-S1 lens-down with lens hood attached, charger + AC cord + 12V cord, CP filter, and there is enough room left over in the main compartment for blower bulb, lens cleaner pen, etc. The X-S1 is a little taller from bottom to hot shoe than the case's interior is wide, so there is about a half-inch bulge in the sides of the case, as opposed to being straight. This hasn't been a problem.

There is also a separate padded compartment for an iPad. Not having an iPad, I use this compartment for the X-S1 printed manual. Also, there's a full-width flat front compartment for lens cloths, batteries, pens, etc. I like, too, that it doesn't look much like a camera bag.

Have fun. This is advice that I intend to take up, myself, soon. I bought my X-S1 back around the beginning of the year, but then life intervened, and I have hardly had a chance to use it, let alone play with it. So, count me as another old far..., er..., old person with a "new" X-S1. Good luck!

 

[Andy Hewitt]

Hi there,

Just spotted this so thought I'd add my experiences too. I switched to a DSLR camera from file about 8 years ago, (but used compact digital since 2000). Then switched to a 'Bridge' camera last year (the Fuji HS50), and then got my X-S1 earlier this year. I was tempted by the larger than usual sensor (at the time), and the larger size for handling.

It's not really been a disappointment, but as others have said, it does take some patience to learn how best to use it. Bear with it and it'll give you some very fine images. You'll need to experiment to find out what settings best suit your needs and experience, you may even need to relearn around a few old habits.

There are plenty of ways to use this camera, and a multitude of settings that are possible, although it's worth learning them as you need to select carefully according to subjects and conditions. You'll also find a lot of information about how to use the EXR settings, and a few arguments too :-/.

Some of it will depend on how you plan to use the camera, and whether you intend shooting JPEG only, or making use of Raw images.

In my own experience with this camera, I find shooting Raw gives me the easiest option for general shooting. I set it to ISO100, Large size images, and DR100. These set the camera to what I'd call a good solid base setting for highest image quality and resolution, and the greatest ability to fine edit later. I use LightRoom for management and editing (along with Topaz plugins), but some alternatives are good too (beware though, the Fujis are notoriously tricky in finding a good Raw editor) - RawTherapee is one I know does work well, and for free too (and is multi-platform).

If you shoot JPEG only, then I would suggest following advice for EXR settings, probably Medium size, DR200 or DR400 with ISO set to Auto 400 or Auto 800. This give you dynamic range expansion which helps prevent blown highlights and lost shadow detail.

Some prefer shooting JPEG, it's quicker as you don't have to post process as much, but you lose the ability to recover any detail if it gets clipped in the JPEG processor (which I find it tends to do quick aggressively). Others like Raw, which requires post processing work on more images, but offers greater flexibility for editing later. You can also shoot using Raw+JPEG, and decide which version is best later on, but obviously you use up more storage space.

In the end though, you need to get out and take pictures, start with some familiar places, take a lot of test shots using different settings and go from there.

As for other advice, I can add some more I think.

I have added a UV filter to mine, just for protection of the lens, something I've always done since owning a 35mm 30 years ago. I found the Marumi filters are very good value, and perform excellently (i.e. are completely unnoticeable in use), but also look at the B+W filters, which are quite excellent, but a bit expensive. I prefer UV filters to Skylight, as they are completely clear in colour, some Skylights can add a colour cast.

As for cards, you need at least a Class 10 if there's any chance of shooting video. I keep a small set of 16GB cards rotating. I prefer not to go too large, as I find them easier to manage later. I usually stick to Lexar (usually better value too) or Sandisk, as they seem to have the least chance of failures (I've had Kingston cards fail on me in the past).

It's also worth getting a spare battery or two, I find they don't quite last a full 16GB card's worth of Raw shots. They can be a bit hit and miss on quality though, unless you're rich and can afford OEM Fuji batteries. In the US I believe you can get Wasabi batteries which are discussed a lot, as well as MaximalPower, which is all I can get in the UK.

I hope you enjoy your new toy, here's my Flickr site which is mostly shots from the X-S1

https://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewhewitt/sets/

 

[darobin1]

I posted this yesterday -- in short, I am very impressed with the performance of the X-S1

Loading…

www.dpreview.com

 

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

While awaiting delivery of my X-S1 I'm thinking about 'must have' accessories and the two that immediately come to mind are the SD card and carrying case. Which SD card (brand, size, speed) and case (if you use one) would you guys suggest?

I bought this padded messenger bag from Amazon for $32. I think it has gone up a few bucks. It holds my X-S1 lens-down with lens hood attached, charger + AC cord + 12V cord, CP filter, and there is enough room left over in the main compartment for blower bulb, lens cleaner pen, etc. The X-S1 is a little taller from bottom to hot shoe than the case's interior is wide, so there is about a half-inch bulge in the sides of the case, as opposed to being straight. This hasn't been a problem.

There is also a separate padded compartment for an iPad. Not having an iPad, I use this compartment for the X-S1 printed manual. Also, there's a full-width flat front compartment for lens cloths, batteries, pens, etc. I like, too, that it doesn't look much like a camera bag.

Have fun. This is advice that I intend to take up, myself, soon. I bought my X-S1 back around the beginning of the year, but then life intervened, and I have hardly had a chance to use it, let alone play with it. So, count me as another old far..., er..., old person with a "new" X-S1. Good luck!

Looks like a nice bag and if it will also accommodate my iPad 5 then that's what I want - thanks!

Seems like there's several of us in the old-coots club.

 

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

Hi there,

Just spotted this so thought I'd add my experiences too. I switched to a DSLR camera from file about 8 years ago, (but used compact digital since 2000). Then switched to a 'Bridge' camera last year (the Fuji HS50), and then got my X-S1 earlier this year. I was tempted by the larger than usual sensor (at the time), and the larger size for handling.

It's not really been a disappointment, but as others have said, it does take some patience to learn how best to use it. Bear with it and it'll give you some very fine images. You'll need to experiment to find out what settings best suit your needs and experience, you may even need to relearn around a few old habits.

There are plenty of ways to use this camera, and a multitude of settings that are possible, although it's worth learning them as you need to select carefully according to subjects and conditions. You'll also find a lot of information about how to use the EXR settings, and a few arguments too :-/.

Some of it will depend on how you plan to use the camera, and whether you intend shooting JPEG only, or making use of Raw images.

In my own experience with this camera, I find shooting Raw gives me the easiest option for general shooting. I set it to ISO100, Large size images, and DR100. These set the camera to what I'd call a good solid base setting for highest image quality and resolution, and the greatest ability to fine edit later. I use LightRoom for management and editing (along with Topaz plugins), but some alternatives are good too (beware though, the Fujis are notoriously tricky in finding a good Raw editor) - RawTherapee is one I know does work well, and for free too (and is multi-platform).

If you shoot JPEG only, then I would suggest following advice for EXR settings, probably Medium size, DR200 or DR400 with ISO set to Auto 400 or Auto 800. This give you dynamic range expansion which helps prevent blown highlights and lost shadow detail.

Some prefer shooting JPEG, it's quicker as you don't have to post process as much, but you lose the ability to recover any detail if it gets clipped in the JPEG processor (which I find it tends to do quick aggressively). Others like Raw, which requires post processing work on more images, but offers greater flexibility for editing later. You can also shoot using Raw+JPEG, and decide which version is best later on, but obviously you use up more storage space.

In the end though, you need to get out and take pictures, start with some familiar places, take a lot of test shots using different settings and go from there.

As for other advice, I can add some more I think.

I have added a UV filter to mine, just for protection of the lens, something I've always done since owning a 35mm 30 years ago. I found the Marumi filters are very good value, and perform excellently (i.e. are completely unnoticeable in use), but also look at the B+W filters, which are quite excellent, but a bit expensive. I prefer UV filters to Skylight, as they are completely clear in colour, some Skylights can add a colour cast.

As for cards, you need at least a Class 10 if there's any chance of shooting video. I keep a small set of 16GB cards rotating. I prefer not to go too large, as I find them easier to manage later. I usually stick to Lexar (usually better value too) or Sandisk, as they seem to have the least chance of failures (I've had Kingston cards fail on me in the past).

It's also worth getting a spare battery or two, I find they don't quite last a full 16GB card's worth of Raw shots. They can be a bit hit and miss on quality though, unless you're rich and can afford OEM Fuji batteries. In the US I believe you can get Wasabi batteries which are discussed a lot, as well as MaximalPower, which is all I can get in the UK.

I hope you enjoy your new toy, here's my Flickr site which is mostly shots from the X-S1

https://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewhewitt/sets/

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz

Andy, thanks a lot for all of those ideas and suggestions - some of which are somewhat foreign to me since (as an old 35mm guy) I'm not yet that familiar with digicams!

Speaking of Lightroom (and as I will need to start using software for organizing/editing) would LR be difficult to learn for a digicam noob like myself? - I'm quite PC literate, using a Win7 PC and recently, an iPad Air. At this time I obviously don't know whether I will eventually prefer shooting JPEG or RAW but I might as well get software that can convert Fuji RAW.

PS. I like your photos.

 

[Andy Hewitt]

Andy, thanks a lot for all of those ideas and suggestions - some of which are somewhat foreign to me since (as an old 35mm guy) I'm not yet that familiar with digicams!

Personally I'd start off in 'P' mode, and leave everything at default. Then do a search here for some of the EXR articles that have been posted, and try some of the other stuff.

Speaking of Lightroom (and as I will need to start using software for organizing/editing) would LR be difficult to learn for a digicam noob like myself? - I'm quite PC literate, using a Win7 PC and recently, an iPad Air. At this time I obviously don't know whether I will eventually prefer shooting JPEG or RAW but I might as well get software that can convert Fuji RAW.

LR does have a steep learning curve, but then a lot is going to depend on how many photos you're going to take, and how much control you need over them. If you're likely to shoot into a few hundred images at a time, then yeah, LR will be a great help. I'd suggest looking up information on 'workflows', and particularly 'non-destructive' workflows - a workflow is everything from taking the photos, to importing, tagging, filing, editing and exporting.

In summary, a 'non-destructive' workflow is where the original image is never directly edited, but a descriptive file is stored in a database, and any adjustments are applied during viewing or exporting. This is most useful when shooting Raw, as you don't have to choose an export file format immediately, only when you actually need to output the image somewhere. The big advantages are that you can easily go back and change any edits without creating new copies, or having to start again, and you only need to keep one master full size image (therefore saving storage space).

The more traditional workflow imports an image, you edit it, and then export it to a final format immediately. If you need to change an adjustment, you have to start again, or try to correct over the top of existing edits (destructive editing), and re-save the image.

You can use either method for both Raw and JPEG formats. The RFC software supplied with the camera only work using the second method. LR and RawTherapee use the first method.

There are some tutorial videos on the Adobe website, so it could be worth looking at some of those first.

One web site I like, which has a plethora of articles that are really useful is the Luminous Landscape, it's worth spending some time there (helpful for both shooting and processing). Look at the 'Tutorials' and 'Essays' pages.

PS. I like your photos.

Thanks

 

[SnowshoeLane]

Seems like there's several of us in the old-coots club.

Count me in!

 

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

Andy, after reading your LR comments I think I'll look for more intuitive photo org & editing software (at this point in my life I don't have time for anything with a 'steep learning curve')! I do appreciate your suggestions.

 

[SnowshoeLane]

If you use a Mac, I have no suggestions. If you are on Windows, there are lots of possibilities, including everything from Picasa for JPEGS (easy and often good) to Zoner Photo Studio (JPEGS and RAW). Fast Stone and SageLight are other options. And there are many others.

 

[35mmUntilFilmRunsOut]

If you use a Mac, I have no suggestions. If you are on Windows, there are lots of possibilities, including everything from Picasa for JPEGS (easy and often good) to Zoner Photo Studio (JPEGS and RAW). Fast Stone and SageLight are other options. And there are many others.

I do use Windows and I am aware of the software you mention + others, but at this point in my life I want to avoid installing and trying various programs. So I'd really appreciate recommendations (based on actual use) for photo software that's intuitive to use and works well with all of the images the X-S1 can produce.

 

[Lisetta1]

I know it isn't the "soup du jour", but isn't Photoshop Elements still considered a good choice, being extremely versatile and inexpensive? I haven't used the "Organize" feature, but it does have one.

A few months back someone posted here with some photos they'd tweaked with Oloneo, including a fun (subtle, if you want), HDR. It's not like PSE, but it was $69 and I've had fun with it.

I haven't read this article, but here was a little review of it, just fyi. I am a "how can I do this quickly" person so I've enjoyed both PSE and Oloneo and have adjusted photos very fast in ways that were very pleasing (many not for pixel peepers, but otherwise..seem pretty nice!)

Loading…

www.ephotozine.com

 

[jeffsvisions]

i really like this.

Loading…

www.amazon.com

and it includes perfectly clear one click fix free.

 

[Andy Hewitt]

Andy, after reading your LR comments I think I'll look for more intuitive photo org & editing software (at this point in my life I don't have time for anything with a 'steep learning curve')! I do appreciate your suggestions.

All said, I still think, after trying many solutions over the years, that something like LR does end up being a 'simpler' solution in the end. If you can manage to stick with it, it will be an easier overall workflow.

Otherwise, you have to think about manually managing import, culling, storage, editing and exporting as separate tasks. With LR it all becomes a single flow.

As a new user it's probably not as steep a learning curve as we used to see in the past when photographers were coming from traditional workflows, to the new ones in LR (and Aperture on the Mac).

You can download a demo and see how you get one with it.

 

[Lisetta1]

i really like this.

http://www.amazon.com/PaintShop-Pro...965&sr=8-1&keywords=paintshop+pro+x6+ultimate

and it includes perfectly clear one click fix free.

 

[SnowshoeLane]

Different folks find different programs more intuitive to them. I have always liked Picasa for organization and many fixes. One great feature of it is that you can make any edits you desire, Save a Copy of those edits, undo the edits to your original and edit again as many times as you like easily. It also never overwrites your original file (something other programs have finally started to do also).

I find Zoner very intuitive. I do not find PSE or Corel products intuitive. Since many of the programs are free or have trial versions, try a few and see which one makes sense to you. Also, if you follow some of the software giveaway sites, you can get free versions of some programs. I got Zoner 15 Pro that way. Zoner also has nice features for batch renaming photos.

Fast Stone is very nice for looking through lots of files and folders easliy and also has nice editing features.

I find workflow easy in both Picasa and Zoner. Less so in some other programs, but YMMV. Test a few programs and see what works for you and provides you with the results you want. And, what works well with your hardware.

 

[Andy Hewitt]

Different folks find different programs more intuitive to them. I have always liked Picasa for organization and many fixes. One great feature of it is that you can make any edits you desire, Save a Copy of those edits, undo the edits to your original and edit again as many times as you like easily. It also never overwrites your original file (something other programs have finally started to do also).

I find Zoner very intuitive. I do not find PSE or Corel products intuitive. Since many of the programs are free or have trial versions, try a few and see which one makes sense to you. Also, if you follow some of the software giveaway sites, you can get free versions of some programs. I got Zoner 15 Pro that way. Zoner also has nice features for batch renaming photos.

Fast Stone is very nice for looking through lots of files and folders easliy and also has nice editing features.

I find workflow easy in both Picasa and Zoner. Less so in some other programs, but YMMV. Test a few programs and see what works for you and provides you with the results you want. And, what works well with your hardware.

I agree, I really hate it when everyone starts arguing about what is *the* best app or workflow to use, and assume that one method is the perfect one for everyone.

I'd always recommend downloading some demos, or free options (RawTherapee, Darktable, Picasa and so on), and try out a few to see what's best for *you*.

I know there are clearly some apps out there that are generally considered poor, but they still have their users, who manage to work with them.

Let's face it, most photo software will get you some kind of editing capabilities, and usually some kind of improved end result.

However, all said, I think you may also get benefits with a little patience. For a new user, nearly everything is going to be a fairly steep learning curve if you want to get the best out of it in the end. Something like LightRoom, once learnt, and set-up well, can end up being a very quick and simple workflow.

In the end though, you just need to enjoy your hobby, worrying about too many technical issues can spoil that at times.

 

[Lisetta1]

I think that "one click fix" in Paint Shop Pro would be a great start for someone getting used to new software, and kind of "builds confidence" for experimenting with the "Image" and "Effects" menus which, imo, are a lot of (very quick and easy) fun ways to explore changing your original.

But I'm sure you can't go wrong with anything suggested here. They are all "tried and true".

Lisetta