Your user settings: Master your Z

[j_photo]

Silent photography is needed in a certain situation and setting that in one U is a good idea. Just my 2 cents.

True, but you can't use it under artificial lighting.

That's not true. There are plenty of artificial lighting scenarios where the electronic silent shutter works fine. It depends on the type of lights.

Also since it looks like you are attempting to write the definitive guide to user settings, I suggest you use the proper terms. Nikon refers to the U modes as User Settings. The term "banks" is reserved for the top models that use Shooting Menu Banks and Custom Settings Banks. There is no such thing as user setting banks.

 

[1llusive]

Silent photography is needed in a certain situation and setting that in one U is a good idea. Just my 2 cents.

True, but you can't use it under artificial lighting.

That's not true. There are plenty of artificial lighting scenarios where the electronic silent shutter works fine. It depends on the type of lights.

Also since it looks like you are attempting to write the definitive guide to user settings, I suggest you use the proper terms. Nikon refers to the U modes as User Settings. The term "banks" is reserved for the top models that use Shooting Menu Banks and Custom Settings Banks. There is no such thing as user setting banks.

Not a definitive guide. As I stated, this is to help get people started and to encourage others to share their settings. It's in the post and it's even in the thread title.

And I refer to "user settings" many times.

Noted that you can use electronic shutter under cyclical lighting at certain shutter speeds. But because it can be hard for many to know what shutter speeds to use, it's safer to just not use it. People will need to experiment if they want to use it in those conditions.

 

[kenw]

Is the Z7 also ISO invariant between ISO 64 and 400, and the Z6 between ISO 100 and 800?

Based on photonstophotos data the low conversion gain range on the sensors is ISO invariant to within about 1/3 of a stop. I think it would be perfectly reasonable to use just two ISOs for each camera as far as RAW capture goes if you wanted to maximally preserve highlights.

 

[j_photo]

Silent photography is needed in a certain situation and setting that in one U is a good idea. Just my 2 cents.

True, but you can't use it under artificial lighting.

That's not true. There are plenty of artificial lighting scenarios where the electronic silent shutter works fine. It depends on the type of lights.

Also since it looks like you are attempting to write the definitive guide to user settings, I suggest you use the proper terms. Nikon refers to the U modes as User Settings. The term "banks" is reserved for the top models that use Shooting Menu Banks and Custom Settings Banks. There is no such thing as user setting banks.

Not a definitive guide. As I stated, this is to help get people started and to encourage others to share their settings. It's in the post and it's even in the thread title.

And I refer to "user settings" many times.

Noted that you can use electronic shutter under cyclical lighting at certain shutter speeds. But because it can be hard for many to know what shutter speeds to use, it's safer to just not use it. People will need to experiment if they want to use it in those conditions.

Accuracy matters. This thread presents as authoritative. Many may come to it, trust it, and use it as a learning resource. It's a shame, for example, if the the statement that electronic shutter cannot be used under artificial lighting it taken as correct. It's simply not. And there is no reason not to use accurate terminology. It's a matter of avoiding confusion or misinformation.

 

[topg]

Thanks for this list, it's always interesting to see how others set up their gear, and I learned a few things from you too. For example, I never thought of putting zoom on the AF-ON button as it seemed a waste of a well-placed button, but I tried it and that actually suits me much better and keeps a logical connection to focusing. Switching to manual when I need to lock focus does seem to work just as well in my shooting style as back-button focus, so I'll give this a go for a while and see how I like it.

Like others I'm irritated that Nikon limits what can be assigned to each button - because reasons - and you don't know what's available for each button until you try. This forces you to make certain sacrifices unnecessarily, I don't understand why they don't just make everything selectable on all of them - they're all just buttons after all. I wish I could re-assign the Release Mode button too, or e.g. the Delete button when you're not previewing, but nope.

Another irritation: though it's great that we now have the option on the Z6/7ii's to have a clean live view without clutter, why oh why did they add this to a button function but not to the Display button cycle or the i-menu? I just don't have any buttons left to spare for this. And ffs Nikon uncouple the histogram and allow us to toggle it on any screen. Canon are just miles ahead on display customization options here.

I also realized that there are a lot of features of the i-menu that can be somewhat hidden unless you really experiment with each option. It has some unique UI properties with certain functions that just make it really easy to use compared with the equivalent Menu settings. Bracketing works so much more smoothly with the dials and it's quicker to dig down into the options; likewise ISO sensitivity on the i-menu gives quick access to the min/max range for auto-ISO, which the dedicated ISO button doesn't. Viewfinder brightness in i-menu toggles automatically between viewfinder and screen, depending on which you're using, much better than digging into the setup menu, etc.

Otherwise like you I have joystick set to same as multi-selector - I don't know why Nikon don't just do this by default, otherwise it's quite annoying if you accidentally knock it in preview or menus and it kicks you out. Also like you I have 'Release button to use dial' on, as I don't see any downsides to this with any of the functions, and it can be very tiring on the fingers otherwise.

I put Preview on the Record button as this seems a logical place for it right next to the shutter release, and there's no real equivalent for this DoF-checking function anywhere else in the absence of a dedicated button.

A final point for your notes: since you can also save changes to U1-3 while in those modes, this could make your setup quicker from a common base if you don't need to go out to PASM each time. It would really nice if we had Canon's auto-update option for U1-3 too ... come on, Nikon.

 

[Jestertheclown]

*** Sorry, need more detail, say with an example. I thought one can modify it and then re-save it.

Unfortunately the user settings bank is forever stuck in the mode you started in. For example if you set it all up in S then save to U1, U1 will forever be a shutter priority mode.

I'm not so sure about that.

If you make some alterations, then use the "save user settings" in the menu, surely your changes will be saved?

I don't have a camera to hand to try it.

I see. Now I know what you mean. Didnt know that.

"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

 

[1llusive]

Silent photography is needed in a certain situation and setting that in one U is a good idea. Just my 2 cents.

True, but you can't use it under artificial lighting.

That's not true. There are plenty of artificial lighting scenarios where the electronic silent shutter works fine. It depends on the type of lights.

Also since it looks like you are attempting to write the definitive guide to user settings, I suggest you use the proper terms. Nikon refers to the U modes as User Settings. The term "banks" is reserved for the top models that use Shooting Menu Banks and Custom Settings Banks. There is no such thing as user setting banks.

Not a definitive guide. As I stated, this is to help get people started and to encourage others to share their settings. It's in the post and it's even in the thread title.

And I refer to "user settings" many times.

Noted that you can use electronic shutter under cyclical lighting at certain shutter speeds. But because it can be hard for many to know what shutter speeds to use, it's safer to just not use it. People will need to experiment if they want to use it in those conditions.

Accuracy matters. This thread presents as authoritative. Many may come to it, trust it, and use it as a learning resource. It's a shame, for example, if the the statement that electronic shutter cannot be used under artificial lighting it taken as correct. It's simply not. And there is no reason not to use accurate terminology. It's a matter of avoiding confusion or misinformation.

I count 8 times where I use the term user settings, including in the thread title. Only once did I add banks to it to get across that this is a memory bank. I'm sorry that bothered you so much but it's really not worth wasting posts on on a forum with a 150 post limit per thread.

Now I have taken your feedback about the silent shutter and have explained the most reliable way to be sure you will avoid problems using silent shutter. There are several other threads about this. It is best practice to just use mechanical shutter, especially when in doubt. That is the point. As I can not edit my posts to clarify this will have to do.

 

[1llusive]

*** Sorry, need more detail, say with an example. I thought one can modify it and then re-save it.

Unfortunately the user settings bank is forever stuck in the mode you started in. For example if you set it all up in S then save to U1, U1 will forever be a shutter priority mode.

I'm not so sure about that.

If you make some alterations, then use the "save user settings" in the menu, surely your changes will be saved?

I don't have a camera to hand to try it.

I see. Now I know what you mean. Didnt know that.

"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

Think about it: how will you switch to a different shooting mode and keep all of the settings from a U mode, in order to then save them again?

 

[Jestertheclown]

When I got my Z7, I trawled through this, in the hope that it might be the answer to setting the thing up from scratch.

It wasn't.

It turned out that, despite taking (much) longer, setting it up to suit myself was a far better idea.


"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

 

[Jestertheclown]

*** Sorry, need more detail, say with an example. I thought one can modify it and then re-save it.

Unfortunately the user settings bank is forever stuck in the mode you started in. For example if you set it all up in S then save to U1, U1 will forever be a shutter priority mode.

I'm not so sure about that.

If you make some alterations, then use the "save user settings" in the menu, surely your changes will be saved?

I don't have a camera to hand to try it.

I see. Now I know what you mean. Didnt know that.

"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

Think about it: how will you switch to a different shooting mode and keep all of the settings from a U mode, in order to then save them again?

Yes.

I see what you mean.


"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

 

[Jestertheclown]

It is best practice to just use mechanical shutter, especially when in doubt. That is the point.

Don't post that as a statement of fact.

I have my Z set up to automatically select whichever 'version' of shutter it thinks will do the best job under the circumstances.

If there's any doubt, I'd suggest that that's best practice.

"It's good to be . . . . . . . . . Me!"

 

[1llusive]

Thanks for this list, it's always interesting to see how others set up their gear, and I learned a few things from you too. For example, I never thought of putting zoom on the AF-ON button as it seemed a waste of a well-placed button, but I tried it and that actually suits me much better and keeps a logical connection to focusing. Switching to manual when I need to lock focus does seem to work just as well in my shooting style as back-button focus, so I'll give this a go for a while and see how I like it.

It really feels natural. I was surprised when I tried it. It makes picking up the camera, zooming to 100%, focusing, then taking the shot a one-handed operation. OK is just a really awkward button and I want to remap it to something else like the grid display toggle.

Like others I'm irritated that Nikon limits what can be assigned to each button - because reasons - and you don't know what's available for each button until you try. This forces you to make certain sacrifices unnecessarily, I don't understand why they don't just make everything selectable on all of them - they're all just buttons after all. I wish I could re-assign the Release Mode button too, or e.g. the Delete button when you're not previewing, but nope.

Another irritation: though it's great that we now have the option on the Z6/7ii's to have a clean live view without clutter, why oh why did they add this to a button function but not to the Display button cycle or the i-menu? I just don't have any buttons left to spare for this. And ffs Nikon uncouple the histogram and allow us to toggle it on any screen. Canon are just miles ahead on display customization options here.

I also realized that there are a lot of features of the i-menu that can be somewhat hidden unless you really experiment with each option. It has some unique UI properties with certain functions that just make it really easy to use compared with the equivalent Menu settings. Bracketing works so much more smoothly with the dials and it's quicker to dig down into the options; likewise ISO sensitivity on the i-menu gives quick access to the min/max range for auto-ISO, which the dedicated ISO button doesn't. Viewfinder brightness in i-menu toggles automatically between viewfinder and screen, depending on which you're using, much better than digging into the setup menu, etc.

Otherwise like you I have joystick set to same as multi-selector - I don't know why Nikon don't just do this by default, otherwise it's quite annoying if you accidentally knock it in preview or menus and it kicks you out. Also like you I have 'Release button to use dial' on, as I don't see any downsides to this with any of the functions, and it can be very tiring on the fingers otherwise.

I put Preview on the Record button as this seems a logical place for it right next to the shutter release, and there's no real equivalent for this DoF-checking function anywhere else in the absence of a dedicated button.

Completely agree on all points you've made. I had the same reasoning for these decisions. Some of this stuff should just be defaults.

I also originally had Preview on the record button as I too feel that it is the most natural place, but I gave in to the need to switch focus off or to another mode using that button, which caused a cascade of other changes while I was writing this.

A final point for your notes: since you can also save changes to U1-3 while in those modes, this could make your setup quicker from a common base if you don't need to go out to PASM each time. It would really nice if we had Canon's auto-update option for U1-3 too ... come on, Nikon.

I thought I made that clear but maybe not: I did all of the U modes while still in M mode. I never switched to any of the U modes until I was done, however I later went back and made several changes as I wrote this. But certainly there should be an option within each U mode as to the shooting mode (PASM) that will apply to that U mode.

 

[j_photo]

It is best practice to just use mechanical shutter, especially when in doubt. That is the point.

For beginners, Auto mode is the best choice. Mechanical shutter risks shutter shock at slower shutter speeds.

 

[Pinnacle Photo]

This one is surprising & can crush the keeper rate.

a1 AF-C priority selection: Release

Why would you want the camera taking out of focus pics? Hit the button get a picture is not for everyone. I would rather miss the frame than have a picture I am going to delete anyway...

a3 Focus tracking with lock-on:

This is something I change on a regular basis. Depends what I am shooting.

 

[1llusive]

It is best practice to just use mechanical shutter, especially when in doubt. That is the point.

Don't post that as a statement of fact.

I have my Z set up to automatically select whichever 'version' of shutter it thinks will do the best job under the circumstances.

If there's any doubt, I'd suggest that that's best practice.

Ok, I wish I could edit that. In my original post you will see that I use Auto for the shutter type.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64661419

d5 Shutter type: Auto (will use EFCS at 1/250 and below, mechanical above)

Sometimes I wish I didn't try to use the forums on mobile at work between tasks. :-|

 

[1llusive]

This one is surprising & can crush the keeper rate.

a1 AF-C priority selection: Release

Why would you want the camera taking out of focus pics? Hit the button get a picture is not for everyone. I would rather miss the frame than have a picture I am going to delete anyway...

Steve Perry explained this and I agree with him: you don't want to be tracking something and have the camera think the subject isn't in focus when in fact the focus is just slightly moving around as the subject moves. Then it denies you the shots which weren't actually out of focus.

a3 Focus tracking with lock-on:

This is something I change on a regular basis. Depends what I am shooting.

Yeah, my suggestion is based again on Steve Perry's point which I also noticed myself: I don't want the camera instantly focusing on the background just because my focus point slipped off momentarily. It's too twitchy.

In what situation(s) would you use a fast setting?

 

[1llusive]

When I got my Z7, I trawled through this, in the hope that it might be the answer to setting the thing up from scratch.

It wasn't.

It turned out that, despite taking (much) longer, setting it up to suit myself was a far better idea.

It is an investment but it's worth it. Please share some details of how you set up your Z 7.

 

[1llusive]

I mentioned my default for high-speed shooting being Dynamic AF and I shared a video of Ricci explaining how to use it. Since then he has been shooting with the Z 6II and says the Auto-area AF seems to be more competent in the new cameras. It seems to work well when the subject is large enough for the camera to make it the priority so I'll be giving it a try. He talks about it here:

And here is Hudson Henry talking about autofocus modes and strategies for the Z cameras, especially for the 2nd gen. My takeaways from these two are:

• Auto-area AF works well for medium to large subjects relative to the frame, where relatively large, closer distractions don't exist
• Subject tracking should be brought up to tell the camera to focus on smaller subjects or when there are multiple subjects
• Other modes can be used in certain situations when you need to take more control of the camera as covered by Ricci in his prior video, but current advancements seem to be in the auto modes

 

[plumberdp69]

Like others I'm irritated that Nikon limits what can be assigned to each button - because reasons - and you don't know what's available for each button until you try. This forces you to make certain sacrifices unnecessarily, I don't understand why they don't just make everything selectable on all of them - they're all just buttons after all. I wish I could re-assign the Release Mode button too, or e.g. the Delete button when you're not previewing, but nope.

If I am not wrong, I think they have stated the options-control mapping on pages 410-412 in the manual.

A final point for your notes: since you can also save changes to U1-3 while in those modes, this could make your setup quicker from a common base if you don't need to go out to PASM each time. It would really nice if we had Canon's auto-update option for U1-3 too ... come on, Nikon.

Mind describing briefly how is Canon's U1-3 setup like? Just curious.

Many thanks for your sharing. Still in the midst of setting up my Z6ii.

 

[1llusive]

As discussed earlier in the thread today, some of these control assignments are compromises. We can't seem to get exactly what we want so we settle on one setup or another. Here is my alternate setup. This moves focus mode changes to the i menu in order to get what I think is a more ideal custom button setup. You can use your lens A/M switch to achieve a focus lock in lieu of the movie record + turn rear dial to switch to manual focus. Again this is because we don't have an AF-lock (hold) function and we don't have the old switch by the lens mount anymore to disable AF temporarily. Either method will achieve the same result, so choose what works best for you, including using AF-ON as focus if you desire. I personally find these methods + the nature of the Z camera eliminates most of the need for back button focus, but set up the camera the way you like.

f1 Customize i menu: I suggest keeping your cursor on the AF-area mode so you can simply hit i and turn the dials, then focus to confirm and exit. In fact most of these controls have dial functionality!

• Column 1
  • Set Picture Control
  • Active D-Lighting
• Column 2
  • Flash mode
  • Auto bracketing
• Column 3
  • Metering
  • White balance
• Column 4
  • Vibration Reduction
  • Shutter type
• Column 5
  • Monitor/viewfinder brightness
  • Apply settings to live view
• Column 6
  • AF-area mode
  • Focus mode

f2 Custom controls:

• Fn1: Silent photography
• Fn2: Subject tracking
• AF-ON: Zoom on/off (100%)
• Sub-selector: Same as multi selector
  • Playback zoom: Scroll
• Sub-selector center: Framing grid display (really handy to click on and line up interiors and exteriors of buildings, then easily click back off)
• Movie record button: Depth of field Preview (this is a more natural placement)